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[gtb]

Or should I just leave erm now! No more water. Should i just Leave erm to dry out and a dark period an just chopp. Im keeping temps down and humidity lower 40-50% tomorrow is day 12 flushing and now im gonna lower light schedule to 8light/16dark up to day14 of flush period, then a dark for 48hr before chopp should this be ok or would those that prefer to flush just carry on with the water for longer trichomes are now cloudy? I'm now coming to end of week9 but because of issue I had it put me back a week.

 

[Driver77]

Tap will be fine for what your doing.
lol You seem determined to hurt yield! Between excessive flushing and now excessive dark periods....No 48hr dark period before harvest, no gain in shortening light hours at this point, The plant matures with light not dark.
Patience my friend...she'll finish when she's finished and there is no way to rush that.
By the way...the plant needs nutrients to finish also......food for thought

 

[Driver77]

So I'm in my 2nd week flushing I'm gonna experiment this grow with a flush and next not. But yh so.... for the last week an a half ive been flushing with distilled water but to keep up its costing a bomb to run distiller. Does it matter about using tap water here? Just for the final few days? My ppms are between 380-550

You can't check runoff ppm in soil...it's not an accurate reading, the organics throw it way off. That's for coco or other inert media.

 

[gtb]

So no more flushing then just water until minimal run off? And no dark period?

 

[Driver77]

So no more flushing then just water until minimal run off? And no dark period?

Correct...carry on at 12/12 to let her finish then harvest and dry in dark. She's well flushed at this point and should be water logged lol...so just normal watering's after dry back is fine.
Your close.....check trichs daily

 

[MiGrampa]

Correct...carry on at 12/12 to let her finish then harvest and dry in dark. She's well flushed at this point and should be water logged lol...so just normal watering's after dry back is fine.
Your close.....check trichs daily

^^^ above ^^^ I'd run with that approach. For viewing trichomes I use a digital microscope that pairs with my smart phone.

 

[gtb]

Are these now showing signs of over ripe?

 

[GrumpAzz]

Are these now showing signs of over ripe?

I wouldn't say over ripe, personally. I'm seeing what looks to be milky trichs on your sugar leaves which will ripen faster than the trichs inside the bud.

Either way.. they're looking damn close for sure. Frosty as hell so good job, brother.

 

[gtb]

Just i ordered a microscope digital but arrived late and damaged so I'm not sure if I'll get the other in time..

 

[gtb]

I have a handheld one im just not 100%. Plus I'm a lil lost, on when to stop feeding before harvest

 

[gtb]

Not the best pics but.....

 

[GrumpAzz]

I have a handheld one im just not 100%. Plus I'm a lil lost, on when to stop feeding before harvest

As Driver said above, just continue watering. "Flushing" is a hot topic that many stand by while many others consider it bro-science. I won't get into that.

Either way, you're very close from the looks of it. I can see a few that haven't milked up within the buds but you've got some starting to amber. I like more of a heady high than a larthargic one, so I likely harvest a little early. You're right in that window and I'd say you could chop in the next few days.

I've only had 4 harvests, though, so my experience level is lower than a lot of the guys around here. Hopefully someone else can chime in.

 

[Driver77]

Looks great!
I agree. I see milky and I think amber...but some clear too. They're in the harvest window

 

[MiGrampa]

Looks great!
I agree. I see milky and I think amber...but some clear too. They're in the harvest window

I agree, they are in the harvest window ... If they were mine, I would probably harvest over the weekend when I would have enough time to get through the trimming.

 

[Observer]

Some go by trichomes, I started going by when the plant is in senescence, leafs are fading, changing colors.

Chlorophyll is fading away, and anthocyanins move in.

I like my weed to put you to sleep though.

 

[Observer]

As Driver said above, just continue watering. "Flushing" is a hot topic that many stand by while many others consider it bro-science. I won't get into that.

Either way, you're very close from the looks of it. I can see a few that haven't milked up within the buds but you've got some starting to amber. I like more of a heady high than a larthargic one, so I likely harvest a little early. You're right in that window and I'd say you could chop in the next few days.

I've only had 4 harvests, though, so my experience level is lower than a lot of the guys around here. Hopefully someone else can chime in.

Wanted to explain flushing, and in the different medias, making chatgpt type it for me.

Why Flushing in Soil (Especially Organic) Is Often Considered Pointless:​

1. Nutrients bind to soil particles​

In soil — especially rich, organic mixes — nutrients aren't just floating freely. They're bound to cation exchange sites, organic matter, or are mineralized slowly by microbes. When you flush with water, you’re not removing much of that.

2. Microbial cycling continues​

In living soil, microbes are constantly breaking down organic matter into plant-available forms. Even if you stop feeding, the soil ecosystem continues releasing nutrients — flushing doesn’t turn that off.

3. Runoff PPMs don’t tell the whole story​

Just because you're seeing high runoff EC/PPM doesn’t mean that’s what the plant is taking up. Most of it may be locked up or unavailable, especially late in flower as root activity slows.

4. Plant already stores what it needs​

By late flower, the plant has accumulated nutrients internally. Any fade you see (yellowing, purpling) is mostly internal nutrient translocation, not the result of flushing.



Flushing is basically the practice of stopping nutrient feedings and giving only plain water (or very light solution) for the final 1–2 weeks before harvest.

Why do people flush?​

• Goal: Clear excess nutrients from the medium and plant
• Belief: Leads to cleaner, smoother, and better-tasting buds
• Often timed when trichomes are cloudy and pistils are 70–90% turned

Two camps on flushing:​

1. Pro-flush:
   • Claim it reduces harshness, improves taste/smell
   • Common in soil grows, especially with bottled nutrients
   • Some say runoff EC drops = less nutrient residue
2. Anti-flush / science-based:
   • Studies show plants don’t really "leach" stored nutrients
   • Plants translocate and use what’s already inside
   • Flushing may reduce yield or cannabinoid levels slightly
   • Proper dry/cure makes a bigger impact on taste than flushing

​

TL;DR Summary​

Flushing in soil — especially in organic grows — is often unnecessary. The microbes keep processing nutrients even after feeding stops, and runoff PPMs don’t equal uptake. Instead of flushing, focus on a gentle taper, then let the plant naturally fade as it finishes. Proper drying and curing will have a way bigger impact on flavor and smoothness than flushing plain water ever will.​

maybe because by that point you already fucked up.:about proper drying and curing than flushing plain water, lol.

 

[Observer]

why flushing does make more sense in coco, rockwool, or other inert media, especially when growing with synthetic salts.

---

Why Flushing Makes Sense in Coco, Rockwool, or Soilless Systems​

Unlike soil, coco and rockwool are inert — they don’t hold nutrients via organic matter or complex microbial processes. Instead:

• Nutrients exist almost entirely in the root-zone solution
• The plant uptakes exactly what’s in the feed, in near-real time
• There’s no "buffer" — so EC directly controls nutrient access

---

What Flushing Does in Soilless Salt-Based Grows:​

1. Removes excess salts from the medium​

• Over time, salts can build up if runoff is insufficient or feed is too hot
• High substrate EC can lock out nutrients or cause toxicity
• Flushing with plain or low-EC water resets the root zone

2. Gives the plant a chance to use stored nutrients​

• Near harvest, the plant slows uptake
• Lowering EC in the last 5–10 days encourages the plant to pull from its internal reserves
• This can promote natural fade and smoother bud

3. Improves consistency and flavor (anecdotally)​

• Some growers report better taste and smoother smoke when flushing is done properly
• Likely due to lower nutrient load in the tissue, not "cleaning" the plant per se

---

Don’t suddenly starve the plant — step down EC gradually for better results and less stress.

---

TL;DR​

In coco or rockwool, flushing actually works — because nutrients are just sitting in solution. A proper flush lowers EC in the root zone, prevents salt buildup, and helps avoid harsh or chemically tasting buds. The trick is not to starve the plant, but to taper EC in the final week so it finishes clean. No microbes or organics = total control over feed and finish.​

---

 

[Observer]

theres other things one can do too though, in an attempt to enhance aroma and flavors.

1. Ripening & Finishing Products (Salt-Based Systems)​

These are designed to lower N, raise K, and sometimes stimulate secondary metabolite production (terpenes, pigments).

Common Types:​

Product Type	Example Products	Purpose
PK Boosters (Late)	MOAB, Bud XL, Shooting Powder, Overdrive	Push final swell, resin, oil
Flushing Supplements	FloraKleen, SLF-100, Clearex	Help dissolve residual salts, reduce EC
Ripening Blends	Winter Frost (New Mill), Ruby Ful#$%	Claim to trigger end-of-life signals
Mag + Sulfur Inputs	Epsom salt, YaraVita Rexene MgSO₄	Sulfur = terpene precursor; Mg = photosynthesis
Fulvic/Humic Acids	Mr. Fulvic, BioAg Ful-Power	Enhance nutrient uptake, soft chelation

These are useful in coco/rockwool. In soil/organic, avoid strong late PK spikes — they may disrupt microbe balance.

2. i left out 2 because its for salt based systems, on second thought i should include it because, knowledge.

2. Enzymes (for root and media cleanup)​

Enzyme products help break down dead root matter and nutrient residues, preventing rot and smoothing uptake. Very useful in soilless/inert systems like coco or hydro.

Common Enzyme Products:​

Product Name	Function
Cannazym	Cellulase blend that breaks down dead roots
SLF-100	Enzyme-rich, also helps reduce salt buildup
Sensizym	Advanced Nutrients blend for coco/hydro
Hygrozyme	Non-microbial root zone cleanser

Use enzymes starting around week 4–5 in flower if buildup or root dieback is a concern. They can continue through flush.

3. Terpene Enhancers / Finishing Blends​

These aren’t always backed by hard science, but some growers swear by them:

• Sugars (Molasses, Sweet Raw, Terpinator) — Can feed microbes or add potassium/sulfur
• Essential Oil Precursors — Some use low doses of amino acid blends with sulfur, boron, magnesium
• Cold Stimulus — Lowering root zone temps, night temps, or DLI late in flower can increase color and volatile oil retention

 

[gtb]

Ideal humidity? and day time temps? during final couple of days before harvest?

 

[Driver77]

Under 78f and as low as you want with humidity. 40 area is best edit: or lower

 

[gtb]

Would it be worth lowering light intensity as harvesting in next couple of days i use a dehumidifier but temps climb to much when pulling humidity down so much as I'm in a very damp country. My average temp range in-between 26/28c and humidity range is 40-50%

 

[Driver77]

Would it be worth lowering light intensity as harvesting in next couple of days i use a dehumidifier but temps climb to much when pulling humidity down so much as I'm in a very damp country. My average temp range in-between 26/28c and humidity range is 40-50%

Sure whatever it takes to get temps and humidity down.

 

[gtb]

So if my drying tent has a humidity of 35% when hanging these should I raise the humidity by using a humidifier pipe into the tent or would this corse mold??

 

[Driver77]

So if my drying tent has a humidity of 35% when hanging these should I raise the humidity by using a humidifier pipe into the tent or would this corse mold??

Just not directed at the plant....good air circulation without blowing on the plant also. When you hang the plant it's going to produce humidity too...hang leaves and all if your having trouble keeping rh up.

 

[Rootsruler]

If your humidity is too low a humidifier can be used to raise the humidity level in the tent. By creating a vortex of air you'll mix the vapor coming from your humidifier with the air that is swirling around the tent which will keep mold and other associated issues at bay.

As you can see in the photo, I positioned the fans so that they aren't directly hitting the plants so much as they are hitting the walls at an angle creating a vortex in the tent.

There are a few different ways you can dry and cure. If your plants are smaller in size, you can remove branches while the plant is still in the pot to retain moisture in the branches. Smaller plants cut all at once will dry quickly. You want low temp and medium to high humidity to slow down the drying process to give the chemical reactions time to do their thing.

Larger plants can be cut down completely and hung like in the picture or can be broken down into single branches and hung to dry. Their branches should be able to retain enough moisture to keep the plant from drying too fast.

Large colas can be removed and put on a drying net as they are most susceptible to bud rot(mold) so getting a set amount of moisture out of them is paramount in the beginning. Once they've gotten a little crispy on the outside you can jar them and the inner moisture will rehydrate the outer part of the cola.

It's all about removing moisture at a rate that allows the chemical processes to happen but also to retain the terpenes that have formed on the flowers hence why you want to keep it at a low temperature. Terpenes are VOC's(Volatile Organic Compounds) and will begin to evaporate at around 70° which is why you want to keep your temps around 60° so that you have a buffer in case temps rise temporarily. Maintaining 60° is not easy unless you have some sort of dedicated chamber you can dry and cure in that can get it that low consistently so most of us end up temp averaging around 65° - 68°. Sometimes higher which will result in some terpene loss but as long as it's not beyond 70° for a long duration you should be fine.

 

[moe.red]

View attachment 103011

How did you get them to grow upside down like that?

 

[gtb]

Drying room extractor fan runn all time at a very low setting or do others here prefer to exchange air every couple of mins

 

[Rootsruler]

Drying room extractor fan runn all time at a very low setting or do others here prefer to exchange air every couple of mins

AFAIU, the tent air exchanges are to make sure there is enough fresh CO² in the tent for the plants to utilize. I don't think it applies in the dry/cure portion other than to remove whatever moisture is in the air to dry your flower so as long as you have adequate air movement in and out I don't think there is a set number.