⚡Electrical Help Thread⚡

Scratch that, figured out a more optimal path that doesn't require crossing water pipes nor electrical. only four holes deep so far :ROFLMAO: good thing i'm good with drywall and texturing haha.

but i do have another question regarding fire blocking.

the penetration I'm making from the utility room to the stairwell is at a similar height to a penetration the home inspector listed as needing fire blocking. Given I don't want to leave an undressed hole in the wall -- it'll bug tf out of me every time I'm in the room -- I figured I could take some sheet rock and box in the penetration prior to running the wire. Would that be good enough or do I need to figure out something more extensive like filling the gap around the penetration with fire blocking spray foam?
Should be good depending on the required rating. 1/2" sheetrock has a 30 minute rating but they also make fire caulk and fire puddy. They might even sell fire foam in a can. In you're case, depending on the size of your hole, you could just fill it with mud.

A lot of our commercial penetrations just end up mudded. It's only the larger gaps that get the putty or caulk. Even around special fire rated sleeves, mud.
 
Should be good depending on the required rating. 1/2" sheetrock has a 30 minute rating but they also make fire caulk and fire puddy. They might even sell fire foam in a can. In you're case, depending on the size of your hole, you could just fill it with mud.

A lot of our commercial penetrations just end up mudded. It's only the larger gaps that get the putty or caulk. Even around special fire rated sleeves, mud.
great, thanks! I figured I'd just make things look pretty and get a brush plate to cover the actual penetration for visual niceness. made the original hole bigger than necessary to make drilling and cutting easier.

got the primary access to the vertical run established, so after i run the first line in a moment, i'll be getting the next stage upstairs to the attic knocked out and should have all access points needed to get the runs made from utility room to attic over the next couple weekends. with how hot it is, i ain't trying to crawl around in the attic too much on one go.
 
correction -- full access to basement is opened up now too. i'll deal with the vertical runs to the attic tomorrow, but after having to open up the ceiling for the first run in the basement hallway, i learned i won't have to get into the HVAC plenum at all and can run just between it and the drywall all the way to the office.

just about half a dozen more holes to cut to make sure i can see each side of any support beams. figure i'll probably spend a day patching all the drywall, which is fine, because we'll be painting everything soon anyways.
 
alright, time has come y'all. need recs for mid-range, reasonably budget friendly cable testers. I need to be able to plug into my punchdown panel and check terminations. RJ45 connectors will be on the opposite end of the runs from the punchdown panel.

also, can i punchdown a port on the panel and remove then re-punchdown again? just curious if i fucked up by not getting a keystone panel instead.
 
Should be good depending on the required rating. 1/2" sheetrock has a 30 minute rating but they also make fire caulk and fire puddy. They might even sell fire foam in a can. In you're case, depending on the size of your hole, you could just fill it with mud.
We can’t use 1/2” anymore unless doubled up. IIRC
 
Why not? I’ve had to remove and repunch once in a blue moon.

View attachment 17383
wasn't sure how fragile the panels are lol i assumed yes (up to an extent) but just in case it was kind of like a one-and-done thing like RJ45 connectors I wanted to make sure there was room for margin. first time punching down network cable so it's a whole new world to me atm
 
wasn't sure how fragile the panels are lol i assumed yes (up to an extent) but just in case it was kind of like a one-and-done thing like RJ45 connectors I wanted to make sure there was room for margin. first time punching down network cable so it's a whole new world to me atm
I've never had a problem re-using a block. Just make sure all the old wire is gone. Keep the untwisted wires as short as possible, same as with the RJ45 connectors.
 
wasn't sure how fragile the panels are lol i assumed yes (up to an extent) but just in case it was kind of like a one-and-done thing like RJ45 connectors I wanted to make sure there was room for margin. first time punching down network cable so it's a whole new world to me atm
Only problem I’ve had is with mixed solid and stranded cable. Make sure you have the right RJ45 for the cable you run. I’ve used the wrong ones on occasion. Old eyes and to lazy to find my glasses. I chose poorly. 🤣
 
MVP of this project man... It don't like it, but it's making due pushing a 4' 1" flex auger bit. Kicking my ass in the process but this is the third one of these I've owned in my life and they just don't give up.
PXL_20230814_235005224.jpg
 
MVP of this project man... It don't like it, but it's making due pushing a 4' 1" flex auger bit. Kicking my ass in the process but this is the third one of these I've owned in my life and they just don't give up.
View attachment 17540
Ridgid makes a damn decent line up of cordless tools man.
If i didnt get an entire Milwaukee set for Christmas last year i would still have all my Ridgid stuff. I loved it, but gave it to someone who needed it more than i did.

Dumb ass me left all my batteries in my shed iver the winter and now they are toast so i gotta buy 4 new batteries 😑🤦🏻
 
Ridgid makes a damn decent line up of cordless tools man.
If i didnt get an entire Milwaukee set for Christmas last year i would still have all my Ridgid stuff. I loved it, but gave it to someone who needed it more than i did.

Dumb ass me left all my batteries in my shed iver the winter and now they are toast so i gotta buy 4 new batteries 😑🤦🏻
i'll be picking up some milwaukee gear soon, too. i like their finish and framing nailers better than rigid's offerings.

goddamn obstructions getting in the way of my fish rod now. One penetration, I can get the rod 13.5' through the space which should align with my other penetration but i can't find the damn rod end. so, trying from the opposite side I make it 8' before hitting an obstruction. I know what it is -- it's the framing that encases the aluminum HVAC plenum.

y'all that do this shit for a living have the patience of saints, man. if I ever move and buy another house that's not wired for ethernet, I'll be paying someone else to handle this crap lol

Edit: GOT IT! fuckin bastard.PXL_20230815_004330843.jpg
 
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i'll be picking up some milwaukee gear soon, too. i like their finish and framing nailers better than rigid's offerings.

goddamn obstructions getting in the way of my fish rod now. One penetration, I can get the rod 13.5' through the space which should align with my other penetration but i can't find the damn rod end. so, trying from the opposite side I make it 8' before hitting an obstruction. I know what it is -- it's the framing that encases the aluminum HVAC plenum.

y'all that do this shit for a living have the patience of saints, man. if I ever move and buy another house that's not wired for ethernet, I'll be paying someone else to handle this crap lol

Edit: GOT IT! fuckin bastard.View attachment 17544
That texture is hard to match when repairing a small patch.
 
That texture is hard to match when repairing a small patch.
I'll show some after pics. consider myself to be a bit of a magician when it comes to matching texture. between being a handyman for almost a decade between my teens and early 20s and being a conscientious renter, I've yet to find a texture I can't get at least close enough to matching to a point my patch isn't noticeable.
 
Quick skim coat to clean up the gaps. I'm scabbing in these patches because with the texturing doing butterfly patches would be way too tedious. Once the mud dries overnight, I'll start working on matching up the texture.
PXL_20230815_020214192.jpg

This is the pull point to get these runs into my office. I'll continue fishing them to the exterior wall, then drop em to behind the baseboard and run em to their final destination.

The orange you see in the hallway will become the hallway's color. I wanted to get all these holes cut and patched before we go spend another ridiculous amount of money on paint. With these two cables, I will be able to expand the network in my office significantly via running another switch in here so two lines are about as future proof as I can make it right now.
PXL_20230815_020205263.jpg
 
i'll be picking up some milwaukee gear soon, too. i like their finish and framing nailers better than rigid's offerings.

goddamn obstructions getting in the way of my fish rod now. One penetration, I can get the rod 13.5' through the space which should align with my other penetration but i can't find the damn rod end. so, trying from the opposite side I make it 8' before hitting an obstruction. I know what it is -- it's the framing that encases the aluminum HVAC plenum.

y'all that do this shit for a living have the patience of saints, man. if I ever move and buy another house that's not wired for ethernet, I'll be paying someone else to handle this crap lol

Edit: GOT IT! fuckin bastard.View attachment 17544
It’s not that bad. And do you really want to trust this to someone else?

You can even put access plates in one or two spots for future use changes.

You’re also learning a lot more about your new home in a short time this way.

You don’t seem the type to hand off important personal chores to others. Same goes for most here.

As the forums say; You got this. 👍🤣
 
It’s not that bad. And do you really want to trust this to someone else?

You can even put access plates in one or two spots for future use changes.

You’re also learning a lot more about your new home in a short time this way.

You don’t seem the type to hand off important personal chores to others. Same goes for most here.

As the forums say; You got this. 👍🤣
Yeah, I'm leaving an access door in the closet where the wire from the utility room moves into the staircase, then I'll be leaving a few strings from the attic down to that access panel for future pulls.

Getting that initial run across the basement was just more of PITA than anticipated lol would gladly have paid someone like $50 to fish a string that I could've then used to pull the wire myself.

You're right though, I've solved some mysteries about the place and am not one to just hand off this kind of work unless it's really risky or tedious. Somehow I managed to avoid doing any wire pulling through all my trade years, so making up for lost time now :ROFLMAO:
 
Nice man! It's really not bad work once you commit to a plan of attack. On tougher pulls, I'll terminate and test or at least check for conductivity on pairs before I button any holes up that I needed to get it there. If it's easy pulling and they sailed through w no snags I dont sweat it.
 
Nice man! It's really not bad work once you commit to a plan of attack. On tougher pulls, I'll terminate and test or at least check for conductivity on pairs before I button any holes up that I needed to get it there. If it's easy pulling and they sailed through w no snags I dont sweat it.
yeah, it's just a bit more difficult than I anticipated. Between hitting a spot with way more wood than I expected for my vertical path and then spending 30 minutes getting the glow rod to peak through the other side, definitely gained even more respect for the people out there doing residential work on the daily.

Can see why @GrumpAzz is eager to transition to a less labor intensive job, for sure.
 
Oh, so I got confirmation about some sketchy happenings at this house by the previous owners. I'm wondering if it would be worth getting a licensed electrician out to do an inspection on the wiring.

TL;DR: they had an additional sub panel running a massive grow op. I have some butchered wires in one wall. Worth getting a pro out or no?
 
Are the butchered wires just a part of this subpanel job, or do you suspect house-wide fuckery? General advice would be call a pro if it makes you uncomfortable.
well, where they had the subpanel doesn't look suspect -- which is weird. but there's a hole that at least two of the romex lines that are cut. Guess I could put a volt meter on em and see if they're live 🤷‍♂️
 
is it a code requirement to have a box for keystone modules? i'm talking about one of those blue/tan/pick-a-color boxes that typical receptacles are in.
 
is it a code requirement to have a box for keystone modules? i'm talking about one of those blue/tan/pick-a-color boxes that typical receptacles are in.
No. Box is optional.

VCE Low Voltage Mounting Bracket (1 Gang, 5 Pack) for Single Gang Wall Plate, Telephone Wires, Network Cables, HDMI, Coaxial, Speaker Cables, Black
https://a.co/d/9oEcnvO
 
i'll be picking up some milwaukee gear soon, too. i like their finish and framing nailers better than rigid's offerings.
Grab one of the Surge impact drivers. Man are they smooth. Feather the trigger and you'll never crossthread a screw again. Mine handles up to 3/8x3" lag screws no problem.
y'all that do this shit for a living have the patience of saints, man.
There's a reason why construction workers are prone to alcoholism, depression and suicide. It's a hard life to live, beating down your body and mind, leaving little energy for anything after work. Many of us forget that the company will go on without us and end up feeling stuck and abused. Like some weird Stockholm syndrom type relationship. Most fail to realize how vital they are and usually go under appreciated.
 
There's a reason why construction workers are prone to alcoholism, depression and suicide. It's a hard life to live, beating down your body and mind, leaving little energy for anything after work. Many of us forget that the company will go on without us and end up feeling stuck and abused. Like some weird Stockholm syndrom type relationship. Most fail to realize how vital they are and usually go under appreciated.
Even after getting out of construction I've struggled with this. A decade deep into my current career (software engineering and now information security) and still as drunk as ever, yet I come back to doing this kind of work for myself now. Getting all my pull holes sealed up for my basement runs is satisfying and I'm proud of the effort. If I was doing this professionally, guaranteed there would be hate for how slow it's gone and the mistakes made.

Truth is, the blue collar boys enable the rich boys to get richer. Can't make more money if you don't have a building to park your money in. Douchebags.
 
Oh, so I got confirmation about some sketchy happenings at this house by the previous owners. I'm wondering if it would be worth getting a licensed electrician out to do an inspection on the wiring.

TL;DR: they had an additional sub panel running a massive grow op. I have some butchered wires in one wall. Worth getting a pro out or no?
Depends. How bad and live or dead?

My prior home owner thought he was a master or all trades. He was not. I was able to fix and remove most things. To expensive to replace everything I didn’t like. I redid the panel, not the main though. Added extra breakers and shared the load better.

Chasing a short or bad ground I might need help if in a wall.

Edit: If you have a local union hall not to far away you might be able to get a journeyman to help you for a good price.
 
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Alright, changing subject here.

I have a single, dated light in my office. I have plans to do some fairly aggressive sound proofing and will be building baffle boxes to go on the ceiling and want to install recessed bar lighting in the boxes. Obviously in the age of LEDs, I'll be using that tech for the light bars so now to the question.

Is it acceptable/reasonable to convert the current light mount into a junction box? I'll need to dig up the plans but IIRC I'll be running roughly 12 light bars in series parallel. I haven't scoped out the load yet, but it shouldn't be any more than a 100w incandescent bulb. The light in question currently lives on a 15amp circuit that I assume is shared by the bathroom and another bedroom.

Edit: correction, it'll be nine light bars. planning on flexible tube style lights so i can wrap the perimeters of the boxes slightly recessed to hide the bars.

PXL_20230817_060649072.jpg
 
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I was an electrical estimator in the 80’s so I’m no where near up to code but I don’t see why not?

Is it a standard square or octagon box? (Doesn’t matter if it’s double gang or not) They still make covers and this is residential so I think you’re good.

I did it here 20+ years ago. Just use the round plate to cover octagon box and square for square box.

Anyone else up to date on code, things changed?
 
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