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Is there any truth to the saying 'bigger the roots, bigger the fruits' when growing cannabis?

Only if you can maintain the stability of ph, EC, and WC. Otherwise you will cause yourself issues.

Its all a balance. If you have an autofeed system i say yes go for it. If you are hand watering then 2-5 gal may be a better option.

Growth increase from using the least media possible is 100% contingent on ability to maintain a stable root zone. If you can’t it will be a hindrance and cause issues or what people incorrectly refer to as rootbound.
So we're keeping a smaller container to sequester the roots for better O² exchange by not doing a large feed then allowing dryback but rather small feeds to keep the WC% consistent trying to find the WC level where they can optimize their O² exchange?

I have an auto irrigate system I made so I can control feed frequency and amounts at every event. I'll follow @Observer recommendations to start and spend a few days dialing in the WC%.
 
So we're keeping a smaller container to sequester the roots for better O² exchange by not doing a large feed then allowing dryback but rather small feeds to keep the WC% consistent trying to find the WC level where they can optimize their O² exchange?

I have an auto irrigate system I made so I can control feed frequency and amounts at every event. I'll follow @Observer recommendations to start and spend a few days dialing in the WC%.
Each fertigation brings in o2 and the higher ratio of media exposed means better gas exchange. WC is an important factor but you can still have drybacks. They just aren’t as necessary or impactful as in bigger pots. You still have drybacks they just happen much faster and do not need to be as drastic
 
Only if you can maintain the stability of ph, EC, and WC. Otherwise you will cause yourself issues.

Its all a balance. If you have an autofeed system i say yes go for it. If you are hand watering then 2-5 gal may be a better option.

Growth increase from using the least media possible is 100% contingent on ability to maintain a stable root zone. If you can’t it will be a hindrance and cause issues or what people incorrectly refer to as rootbound.
Hey Aqua man....Root bound to me is when I see stalling in the plants growth in small pots. When I start seeds in solo cups there is daily progress, then after about 2-3 weeks I can notice a change in growth where the top doesn't grow upwards and over a day or two I can notice the stall. It happens when I don't get them out of the small cups and the roots wraps the bottom and its all root around the inside of the cup. I've called that rootbound but you say that's the wrong term?? and if I do??? something other than transplant It will grow without the accompanied stunting? or have I read that wrong?
 
Remember there is a difference between root mass, root structure and container size.

You can have the same root mass in a 1 gal pot and a 3 gal pot. Just because the pot is bigger doesn’t mean it has a larger root mass. The roots are just more dense in a smaller container and thus requires more effort in keeping a stable root zone and supply of nutrients. Gas exchange is faster because of less media and growth is increased.


The term rootbound as it is used by us cannabis growers is 99% BS. They are not rootbound, we are simply not looking after the needs well enough to replenish the small amount of media.
I wanted to say something along these lines too, but aqua said it better though.


I see the term being misused A LOT, mainly from reddit lol.
 
Hey Aqua man....Root bound to me is when I see stalling in the plants growth in small pots. When I start seeds in solo cups there is daily progress, then after about 2-3 weeks I can notice a change in growth where the top doesn't grow upwards and over a day or two I can notice the stall. It happens when I don't get them out of the small cups and the roots wraps the bottom and its all root around the inside of the cup. I've called that rootbound but you say that's the wrong term?? and if I do??? something other than transplant It will grow without the accompanied stunting? or have I read that wrong?
Yea that's not rootbound, they are circling the bottom of the container and then they'll continue circling up, growing a denser root ball, ik ur not asking me tho

But are those solos with soil, and organic amendments?

""We are simply not looking after the needs well enough to replenish the small amount of media."""
 
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Yea that's not rootbound, they are circling the bottom of the container and then they'll continue circling up, growing a denser root ball, ik ur not asking me tho

But are those solos with soil, and organic amendments?

""We are simply not looking after the needs well enough to replenish the small amount of media."""
Well the plants stunt in the small pots for me, what is it if not root bound? I know were just talking semantics here but what is root bound then? The term came from somewhere, I'm just assuming a full pot of roots and unhealthy looking leaves that thrive when transplanted was root bound.but your saying a better feed schedule and more O2 access will eliminate the...root bound symptom even in small pots?
 
Well the plants stunt in the small pots for me, what is it if not root bound? I know were just talking semantics here but what is root bound then? The term came from somewhere, I'm just assuming a full pot of roots and unhealthy looking leaves that thrive when transplanted was root bound.but your saying a better feed schedule and more O2 access will eliminate the...root bound symptom even in small pots?
From what I'm understanding it won't get root bound if you are feeding it at a rate that doesn't flood the root ball and put the roots essentially under water. As long as they are getting a fairly constant flow of water at a rate that maintains a WC in the soil that allows them to do their O² exchanges that seems to be the goldilocks zone you want to put them in.
 
Hey Aqua man....Root bound to me is when I see stalling in the plants growth in small pots. When I start seeds in solo cups there is daily progress, then after about 2-3 weeks I can notice a change in growth where the top doesn't grow upwards and over a day or two I can notice the stall. It happens when I don't get them out of the small cups and the roots wraps the bottom and its all root around the inside of the cup. I've called that rootbound but you say that's the wrong term?? and if I do??? something other than transplant It will grow without the accompanied stunting? or have I read that wrong?
Correct. If you can maintain the rootzone they will be fine. Round bound would be when there is not enough space for the roots. The roots grow like that because thats where they are getting the most moisture and o2. Typically the bottom and outsides.

I had pictures showing this on the other site. The type of container also plays a role. Fabric are less likely to grow like that because of the gas exchange.
 
Correct. If you can maintain the rootzone they will be fine. Round bound would be when there is not enough space for the roots. The roots grow like that because thats where they are getting the most moisture and o2. Typically the bottom and outsides.

I had pictures showing this on the other site. The type of container also plays a role. Fabric are less likely to grow like that because of the gas exchange.
I've not seen fabric pots get root wrapped, the roots grow through the soil not around the inside of the pot. I have a large garbage bag full of old fabric pots I don't know what to do with. I can't see me getting out of the Autopots and using them again.
 
Well the plants stunt in the small pots for me, what is it if not root bound? I know were just talking semantics here but what is root bound then? The term came from somewhere, I'm just assuming a full pot of roots and unhealthy looking leaves that thrive when transplanted was root bound.but your saying a better feed schedule and more O2 access will eliminate the...root bound symptom even in small pots?
I'd say rootbound is when a plant has out-grown its container, there's no more space for roots, take a 1 gallon of soil for instance, eventually that soil will be devoid of nutrients and can no longer support the plants needs, compared to its size, stage and Evironmemt.
 
Correct. If you can maintain the rootzone they will be fine. Round bound would be when there is not enough space for the roots. The roots grow like that because thats where they are getting the most moisture and o2. Typically the bottom and outsides.

I had pictures showing this on the other site. The type of container also plays a role. Fabric are less likely to grow like that because of the gas exchange.
So once your pot is full of roots, as long as you maintain a constant source of water at a particular level, the plant won't need to continue growing roots and will utilize what you are feeding it with the existing roots it has?
 
So once your pot is full of roots, as long as you maintain a constant source of water at a particular level, the plant won't need to continue growing roots and will utilize what you are feeding it with the existing roots it has?
No if the pot is full of roots it will be rootbound. But to that point when was the last time you seen a pot of a solid rootball?

By that i mean from the middle of the soil top to bottom and sides. The entire media filled.

I came close in 1 gal but never have. But again just because you can do it doesn’t mean you should or its the best method for YOU.

You need to balance it to fit YOUR needs. If you can’t meet the needs it will only cause you problems.

Its a high demand grow and REQUIRES automation.

Thats not for everyone. The best way to grow is the one that you can maintain healthy plants. Much like co2 its not necessary but if done right can have a huge impact on growth rates. Only this if done wrong can be catastrophic
 
Did u paint the tops white?
Not sure if you mean the bud or the plant sites.

If bud, no that was a thing I did to prove that the bleached tips were not concentrated crystals of thc like I have read before. It's just bleaching. I can re-create it with light positioning and measurements are no higher in cannabinoids than the rest of the plant.

If you are talking about the tote covers, that is poured in white rubber.
 
Yes sir 2.56 inches which translates to
41.93mL

So a 4 inch rockwool cube for instance will have a substrate volume of approximately 64 cubic inches, so 4% of that substrate volume translates for 41.93 mL at 4% vegetative

Now can do the same thing more or less with a one gallon container of coco, or so
just maths.

Easier with cubes obviously

It's about the same thing as if you were hand watering and fertigating the plant,

BUT with an auto system, then you're just keeping the parameters in a balanced range,WC%

so how ever often the water needs to come on to readjust pH or E.C

checking that E.C run off against input E.C helps allow you to avoid salt buildup in the media, and ion(?)stress(?) Too much ions can/ err the osmotic pressure can hinder uptake Causing a stress, slowing growth.
So when using Rockwool you never water until runoff. Is this correct? If so how do you prevent salt buildup over time.
 
No if the pot is full of roots it will be rootbound. But to that point when was the last time you seen a pot of a solid rootball?

By that i mean from the middle of the soil top to bottom and sides. The entire media filled.

I came close in 1 gal but never have. But again just because you can do it doesn’t mean you should or its the best method for YOU.

You need to balance it to fit YOUR needs. If you can’t meet the needs it will only cause you problems.

Its a high demand grow and REQUIRES automation.

Thats not for everyone. The best way to grow is the one that you can maintain healthy plants. Much like co2 its not necessary but if done right can have a huge impact on growth rates. Only this if done wrong can be catastrophic
I am watering by hand in 1 gallon plastic bags. I am genuinely thinking about automation of my feeding schedule. It's a pita when you are in flower and you have to constantly feed your plants or else the coco will dry out and go hydrophobic. I have to feed mine every 4-6 hours. Automation would be great. I just don't know what to buy and I have been looking at Flora flex and PA hydroponics has some nice stuff.
 
View attachment 76388View attachment 76390

1 gal, pretty much all roots, i could not keep up with these 3, they were getting bushy af.
This is exactly how my 1 gallon pots looks. Roots coming out the top. I have to keep spreading the coco trying to cover the roots.

@Aquaman does this matter that the roots are showing like this picture? I am not sure if it's ok to leave it and not constantly keep trying to cover the roots with coco.
 
I am watering by hand in 1 gallon plastic bags. I am genuinely thinking about automation of my feeding schedule. It's a pita when you are in flower and you have to constantly feed your plants or else the coco will dry out and go hydrophobic. I have to feed mine every 4-6 hours. Automation would be great. I just don't know what to buy and I have been looking at Flora flex and PA hydroponics has some nice stuff.
Can you post a pic of your growspace, or link me to a thread that has it?
 
Actually @Doobie I think this is you

1729281232610.png

Automation is as simple as putting a tray of some sort under them to catch runoff, put a ring kinda thing in the top, plumb it to a pump with a res of water, and put it on a timer.

Here is an example from Amazon

1729281406183.png

But they are available all over in many sizes. If you have a 3D printer you can make your own.

Pump should be tiny.

Timer should have at least 12 settings meaning 6 on 6 off. 24 is common and you could do 10X a day with one of those.
 
This is exactly how my 1 gallon pots looks. Roots coming out the top. I have to keep spreading the coco trying to cover the roots.

@Aquaman does this matter that the roots are showing like this picture? I am not sure if it's ok to leave it and not constantly keep trying to cover the roots with coco.
I put foil over that and then the roots grew out of the top.
 
So when using Rockwool you never water until runoff. Is this correct? If so how do you prevent salt buildup over time.
Monitoring E.C and I would not say never, it's just more about keeping the root zone/media variables in check

the WC% of the wool generally stays between 30-65% or so, IIRC, and ideally it would be connected to drippers and wc sensors alongside e.c/pH or so.

Salts won't build up if the E.C is dialed in to the plants needs, also if it doesn't overdry salts won't dry up and deposit as much.

They start stacking e.c in the media once they want to osmotic pressure stress.
 
Not sure if you mean the bud or the plant sites.

If bud, no that was a thing I did to prove that the bleached tips were not concentrated crystals of thc like I have read before. It's just bleaching. I can re-create it with light positioning and measurements are no higher in cannabinoids than the rest of the plant.

If you are talking about the tote covers, that is poured in white rubber.
Yea the tote covers lol

I remember the bleaching exp, nice to see that to rest.

Nice thankyou
 
I am watering by hand in 1 gallon plastic bags. I am genuinely thinking about automation of my feeding schedule. It's a pita when you are in flower and you have to constantly feed your plants or else the coco will dry out and go hydrophobic. I have to feed mine every 4-6 hours. Automation would be great. I just don't know what to buy and I have been looking at Flora flex and PA hydroponics has some nice stuff.
How many plants you doing? If its small i can get you a list to make an autofeed from prob around $100
 
This is exactly how my 1 gallon pots looks. Roots coming out the top. I have to keep spreading the coco trying to cover the roots.

@Aquaman does this matter that the roots are showing like this picture? I am not sure if it's ok to leave it and not constantly keep trying to cover the roots with coco.
Its fine they will air prune. Just means there is good moisture even up top ot they would be all brown. Thats called making use of all the media lol
 
This is a foolproof beginners method. It can be dialled in to reduce watering further. But it it drain to waste for a reason. I also suggest running an enzyme like hygrozyme through once a week or so to prevent any buildup that common causes issues about week 2-3 of flower.

 
I am watering by hand in 1 gallon plastic bags. I am genuinely thinking about automation of my feeding schedule. It's a pita when you are in flower and you have to constantly feed your plants or else the coco will dry out and go hydrophobic. I have to feed mine every 4-6 hours. Automation would be great. I just don't know what to buy and I have been looking at Flora flex and PA hydroponics has some nice stuff.
The coco has to realllllly dry to go hydrophobic.
 
This is a foolproof beginners method. It can be dialled in to reduce watering further. But it it drain to waste for a reason. I also suggest running an enzyme like hygrozyme through once a week or so to prevent any buildup that common causes issues about week 2-3 of flower.

Curious in your experience how does high fert coco compare to hydro? I can see the benefit of being able to move the plants.
 
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