What’s going on here?

Garbage_bear

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So this is a Blue Dream planted in living soil that has cooked for a month. I planted it about a week ago and now I have this yellowing at the bottom. Is this a deficiency? I have several other plants of other strains that are closing great. Just this one plant has this going on.
 

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How often are you watering/feeding and what? Are the stems hard a wordy feeling ?
 
So far I am watering every day a small amount just to keep the soil moist. They are in living soil so the only thing I feed is teas with compost/worm castings and some molasses. I do have a bunch of roots organic terp teas that I can use as well.
 
So far I am watering every day a small amount just to keep the soil moist. They are in living soil so the only thing I feed is teas with compost/worm castings and some molasses. I do have a bunch of roots organic terp teas that I can use as well.
Wish I could help more I’m not that organic guy - but water everyday sounds like to much - overwatering really is watering too often , even your organic amended soil needs to dry back so the roots can get icy. That explains the leathery leaves, what ever tea you use next I would get some mag(epsom) in it about a gram per gallon .
 
Wish I could help more I’m not that organic guy - but water everyday sounds like to much - overwatering really is watering too often , even your organic amended soil needs to dry back so the roots can get icy. That explains the leathery leaves, what ever tea you use next I would get some mag(epsom) in it about a gram per gallon .
Would a foliar spray with Epsom help? I saw a dude on you tube doing that with an organic grow deficiency. I will lay off the watering.
 
One thing at a time. Let your plant dryback and see what the new growth tells you. If problem persists then I would add in some Epsom.
Normally I would agree but there’s no doubt she could use some mag - foliage option is a good one as it will get it there quick and give the medium a chance to dry out .
 
Normally I would agree but there’s no doubt she could use some mag - foliage option is a good one as it will get it there quick and give the medium a chance to dry out .
The reason I say hold off is because the over water could be causing the lock out. The top leaves look like they're getting what they need but maybe the roots drowning has limited the amount of uptake. Dry back could solve the issue without having to add more stuff.
 
a better picture of the new growth would help but the pictures look like newer growth is affected too to my older eyes, not the center pale green but the older leaves near the top have a off colour.
 
So my first reaction looking at the pics was let’s look at mobile nutrients. I don’t question the group advice that this is watering too frequently but why is it only effecting old growth?
I'm pretty sure it's N. It's the most water soluble and is not held by the soil at all, unless it's part of the organic matter.

This is a very minor problem. Adjust watering frequency, maybe add a little more N.
 
I'm pretty sure it's N. It's the most water soluble and is not held by the soil at all, unless it's part of the organic matter.

This is a very minor problem. Adjust watering frequency, maybe add a little more N.
Without reading a thing just looking at the first pic I said N to myself.

I gotta learn this stuff cause I'm doing a soil / hydro side by side on the next grow!
 
I agree with @MysticEpipedon. Starting at the bottom indicates a N deficiency, however the watering practices may have more to do with this. N being a mobile nutrient and the fact that it’s not spreading indicates two things, one is the prob may be the watering process (actually drowning the roots)
and the other due to the fact that it’s not traveling (mobile) like it would on a normally watered plant would indicate a lock out.
While many say that soil/organic grows suffer no lock outs and ph is not necessary, I beg to differ.
I would dry her out and put her on a regular watering schedule and look to see an improvement.
I am currently growing Blue Dream too and she is a huge mag consumer.
 
I agree with @MysticEpipedon. Starting at the bottom indicates a N deficiency, however the watering practices may have more to do with this. N being a mobile nutrient and the fact that it’s not spreading indicates two things, one is the prob may be the watering process (actually drowning the roots)
and the other due to the fact that it’s not traveling (mobile) like it would on a normally watered plant would indicate a lock out.
While many say that soil/organic grows suffer no lock outs and ph is not necessary, I beg to differ.
I would dry her out and put her on a regular watering schedule and look to see an improvement.
I am currently growing Blue Dream too and she is a huge mag consumer.
I agree 100%. The faith that some organic growers have, that their soil cannot be knocked out of balance, is absurd. Moving a grow to a place with very different water is a major learning experience for me.
 
I agree 100%. The faith that some organic growers have, that their soil cannot be knocked out of balance, is absurd. Moving a grow to a place with very different water is a major learning experience for me.
I have actually experienced a full blown lock out in one hundred percent organic soil. A panic moment for me as I was always told it would/could not happen. Took a major flushing along with a foilar feeding to recover. I PH every drop in my organic grow, have done so for the past ten years and will continue to do so.
I get the water thing. For me it would be like starting all over again.
 
I have actually experienced a full blown lock out in one hundred percent organic soil. A panic moment for me as I was always told it would/could not happen. Took a major flushing along with a foilar feeding to recover. I PH every drop in my organic grow, have done so for the past ten years and will continue to do so.
I get the water thing. For me it would be like starting all over again.
The same thing happened to me, from too much calcium. It took me a "grow and a half" before I figured out what was happening. Gradually, different nutrients were locked out.
 
I agree 100%. The faith that some organic growers have, that their soil cannot be knocked out of balance, is absurd. Moving a grow to a place with very different water is a major learning experience for me.
The water chemistry has to be stripped down to pure H2O with zero buffers or anything else to play nice with organics and be able to dismiss pH testing.
Usually RO is the answer or at least is for me. Rain or spring water is another option. Otherwise the water and it's buffers added at a treatment plant will knock the soil out of neutral and cause lockouts. Dolomite lime can help make the pH chase not so difficult but addressing water chemistry is usually the avenue that gets the better results
 
The water chemistry has to be stripped down to pure H2O with zero buffers or anything else to play nice with organics and be able to dismiss pH testing.
Usually RO is the answer or at least is for me. Rain or spring water is another option. Otherwise the water and it's buffers added at a treatment plant will knock the soil out of neutral and cause lockouts. Dolomite lime can help make the pH chase not so difficult but addressing water chemistry is usually the avenue that gets the better results
I have a spring fed well, I see the ph vary greatly. On average it’s running 7.4, but after a big rain will run as high as 9.5.
 
I agree with @MysticEpipedon. Starting at the bottom indicates a N deficiency, however the watering practices may have more to do with this. N being a mobile nutrient and the fact that it’s not spreading indicates two things, one is the prob may be the watering process (actually drowning the roots)
and the other due to the fact that it’s not traveling (mobile) like it would on a normally watered plant would indicate a lock out.
While many say that soil/organic grows suffer no lock outs and ph is not necessary, I beg to differ.
I would dry her out and put her on a regular watering schedule and look to see an improvement.
I am currently growing Blue Dream too and she is a huge mag consumer.
I did a foliar spray with some epsom salt. I am drying her out now. Do you think a top dressing of worm castings would help the nitrogen?
 
I have a spring fed well, I see the ph vary greatly. On average it’s running 7.4, but after a big rain will run as high as 9.5.
If it passes thru limestone, that limestone is a natural buffer and will likely need to be filtered out or you can chase it with added buffers. But to get away from testing and adjusting all buffers need to be out of it.
My water out of the filter is 8.0 but it's a false 8 and will change to the soil pH of 7 once added because the buffers are stripped away. If there was a locked in buffer keeping it at 8 then eventually it would alter the soil pH.
When I add fish and seaweed to my water in a liquid feeding the pH can drop as low as 5. But with no buffers it adjusts to neutral once in the soil. Swinging the pH is fine and actually ideal but the soil should be able to adjust it back to neutral to keep it in bounds of stability
 
I did a foliar spray with some epsom salt. I am drying her out now. Do you think a top dressing of worm castings would help the nitrogen?
I can now see all of your pics, the third pic is showing me dark veins among the fade out. Most generally that is expression of actually needing mag. Do they all have the dark veining?
How did you make your foilar spray? What are you using as a mag supplement?
These are the things I would do, if you already have just skip the step.
I would foilar feed at a rate of one tablespoon per gallon epsom salts, just before lights out.

I would correct my watering practices. Water, dry, water. Watering in the root zone (a circular area around your plants) and never up close to the base of the plant. Watering at the base of the plant allows water to collect under the root ball forming a mud hole that cuts off the oxygen to your roots, another thing that will yellow off your plant from the bottom up.

I would remove all foliage that is close to or touches the ground. This makes for moist dark places, an invitation to pest and mold. This includes current leaves that are yellowed.
These are the things I would do first. With cannabis, many times it’s a process of elimination to diagnose the cause.

I would not be adding any nitrogen until I was for sure that was really the prob. After seeing all of the pics, I’m leaning away from the lack of nitrogen.
 
If it passes thru limestone, that limestone is a natural buffer and will likely need to be filtered out or you can chase it with added buffers. But to get away from testing and adjusting all buffers need to be out of it.
My water out of the filter is 8.0 but it's a false 8 and will change to the soil pH of 7 once added because the buffers are stripped away. If there was a locked in buffer keeping it at 8 then eventually it would alter the soil pH.
When I add fish and seaweed to my water in a liquid feeding the pH can drop as low as 5. But with no buffers it adjusts to neutral once in the soil. Swinging the pH is fine and actually ideal but the soil should be able to adjust it back to neutral to keep it in bounds of stability
My soil ph sits between 6.1 and 6.3. I too use seaweed and kelp. I think it all comes down to good soil integrity. I agree with what you say.
 
I can now see all of your pics, the third pic is showing me dark veins among the fade out. Most generally that is expression of actually needing mag. Do they all have the dark veining?
How did you make your foilar spray? What are you using as a mag supplement?
These are the things I would do, if you already have just skip the step.
I would foilar feed at a rate of one tablespoon per gallon epsom salts, just before lights out.

I would correct my watering practices. Water, dry, water. Watering in the root zone (a circular area around your plants) and never up close to the base of the plant. Watering at the base of the plant allows water to collect under the root ball forming a mud hole that cuts off the oxygen to your roots, another thing that will yellow off your plant from the bottom up.

I would remove all foliage that is close to or touches the ground. This makes for moist dark places, an invitation to pest and mold. This includes current leaves that are yellowed.
These are the things I would do first. With cannabis, many times it’s a process of elimination to diagnose the cause.

I would not be adding any nitrogen until I was for sure that was really the prob. After seeing all of the pics, I’m leaning away from the lack of nitrogen.
I made the foliar spray with epsom salt, the same ratio. Here are some more recent pics. I put some moister meters in there and was quite surprised how wet the soil is.
 

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I have actually experienced a full blown lock out in one hundred percent organic soil. A panic moment for me as I was always told it would/could not happen. Took a major flushing along with a foilar feeding to recover. I PH every drop in my organic grow, have done so for the past ten years and will continue to do so.
I get the water thing. For me it would be like starting all over again.
But is that because your mix was incorrect ? Or the addition of some tea? Just curious I know nothing about true organic - unless it’s in a bottle! Lmao
 
But is that because your mix was incorrect ? Or the addition of some tea? Just curious I know nothing about true organic - unless it’s in a bottle! Lmao
I truly don’t know what inspired that event. I was not phing at all at the time it happened, and doing the same mix, mix ratios I have done for years. To this day it’s still a mystery.
 
There’s one for the myth buster - I’ve heard not to use spring water because of the inconsistent micros ? Bro science?
Been using it for ten years, only one event, the one we spoke about above. I never deal with lock outs or even shortages of anything.
My well is spring fed and is 478 feet deep and according to testing is a mineral spring.
So, for me, seeing is believing. I believe I would have to mark that down to bro science.
 
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