What's new

Bloom Fertilizer Question

Tremojem

Tremojem

Puff Paladin
Joined
Mar 22, 2025
Messages
305
Reaction score
941
Hello Aqua Man

My question is about P + K Organic Bloom Boosting or whatever they call it.

I was just wondering what your thoughts were about higher levels of P and K during flowering. Using only organic sources.

I have looked into DTE Langbeinite and Potassium Sulphate and Island Phosphate, or Seabird Guano, Fish Bone Meal, Bone Meal.

Any thoughts on this methodology and product selection?

Thank you for your help.

Hope I didn't mess something up in your threads.
 
Langbeinite 0-0-22
Bone Meal 3-15-0
Fish Bone Meal 4-12-0
Potassium Phosphate 0-0-50
Island Phosphate 0-11-0
Seabird Guano 0-11-0
Fish Bone Powder 4-20-0

A couple products here are readily available to the plant and do not require time and microbes to break it down. Why?

I am just looking to better understand what, why, and how these are applicable.
 
Tremojem said:
Langbeinite 0-0-22
Bone Meal 3-15-0
Fish Bone Meal 4-12-0
Potassium Phosphate 0-0-50
Island Phosphate 0-11-0
Seabird Guano 0-11-0
Fish Bone Powder 4-20-0

A couple products here are readily available to the plant and do not require time and microbes to break it down. Why?

I am just looking to better understand what, why, and how these are applicable.
Click to expand...
Aquas on a break dealing with personal things. Might not be back for a bit.
 
I use Dr Earths Flower Girl. A week prior to flipping to flower and a week after going to flower. Easy to use. Four tablespoons per seven gallon bag. Top dressed, rubbed in and then watered. Flower Girl is 100% organic.
 
I saw the Dr. Earths Flower Girl, and was glad to know its organic. Thanks Cannagranny.

Before posting my response, I decided to take another look at their lineup. Wow, they have a considerable product lineup, and all of it kinda reminds me of DTE. All very good looking stuff.

I was only using DTE, and a handful of other organic company offerings and now I need to add Dr. Earth as one. They really have a nice selection.

Thanks again CG!!!
 
Tremojem said:
I saw the Dr. Earths Flower Girl, and was glad to know its organic. Thanks Cannagranny.

Before posting my response, I decided to take another look at their lineup. Wow, they have a considerable product lineup, and all of it kinda reminds me of DTE. All very good looking stuff.

I was only using DTE, and a handful of other organic company offerings and now I need to add Dr. Earth as one. They really have a nice selection.

Thanks again CG!!!
Click to expand...
I’ve been using it a long time. Fantastic stuff! Not horribly overpriced either. No fuss, no muss. It benefits my soil is not terribly hot and the ladies love it.
 
Now I am down, and in the rabbit hole. Plant hormones are also part of this equation. At least that's what the internet says. Kelp, Alfalfa etc. are needed here, as you want to stay clear of any man made plant hormones.

Much needed learning here. I dont even know what I am reading anymore as it is so clear to me that I know so little.

I am confident many if not all, organic bloom boosters contain 2 or more of the organic plant hormones.

None of it matters unless you are trying to push the plant to extremes in a safe way, allowing it to surpass its normal growing capabilities in an effort to produce the very best medicine by removing pests and threats that inhibit its ability to grow into a massive plant with so many opportunities for success in esthetic beauty, color, taste, and medicinal purposes.

Good stuff here for sure.
 
For flower I use a 0-12-0 seabird guano in powder form from Roots organic. I also use their terp tea bloom and boost (two separate products). Their feed chart doesn’t start the boost product until week 4. I start it in week 3. I top dress amend all these products in to Fox Farm Ocean Forest. I have had good success with these nutrients.
 
just be careful of over phosphorus concentrations in the soil. Phosphate can and will lock up the nutrient transport system more easily than any other nutrient and is extremely difficult to remove once it been added

Lockout should be avoided at all cost


Potassium however is much easier to be flushed out

Phosphorus is extremely toxic to soil mycorrhizae and the microbes in general. In organic methods, Having a good healthy balanced microbe environment is essential and negates the need for phosphorus to some degree because the beneficial fungi are able to reach farther into the soil matrix than roots alone and make up some of the difference


I agree phosphate is increasing during weeks three or four. Early and late in the flower cycle it's really not beneficial to push imho


My last thoughts on this subject is pushing your dosage higher might result in better harvest weight however flowers grown with minimal phosphorus tend to be of higher potency and overall better quality. All other factors being equal

Weight versus quality paradox
 
Last edited:
Thank you
Interested in quality not quantity.
It's all new to me so pushing bloom in organic is not as easy. But, maybe not necessary.
The more I learn, the more I am relaxing my methodology to not over fertigate.
 
Tremojem said:
Thank you
Interested in quality not quantity.
It's all new to me so pushing bloom in organic is not as easy. But, maybe not necessary.
The more I learn, the more I am relaxing my methodology to not over fertigate.
Click to expand...

Understanding Plant development levels and timing is key part to mastering a coherent regime

Yeah I think it's definitely warranted to give it a bump or two at minimum during weeks three to five or seven depending on how long the flower's genetics take to ripen But mostly IMO soil complexity and microbes really go far to enhance plant vigor and growth


Liquid Earthworm castings, correctly dosed bat guano, soluble kelp extract and amino acids, humic and fluvic acids all enhance bud development

Certainly there are others here with more advanced insights to organic farming techniques than me on this topic. But I believe those are the basic elements. I use more of a hybrid approach that leans more organic these days

Rule of thumb you can always apply a little more but you can't take it back so go light and pay attention to what the leaves speak back to you
 
Last edited:
Franksta said:
Understanding Plant development levels and timing is key part to mastering a coherent regime

Yeah I think it's definitely warranted to give it a bump or two at minimum during weeks three to five or seven depending on how long the flower's genetics take to ripen But mostly IMO soil complexity and microbes really go far to enhance plant vigor and growth


Liquid Earthworm castings, correctly dosed bat guano, soluble kelp extract and amino acids, humic and fluvic acids all enhance bud development

Certainly there are others here with more advanced insights to organic farming techniques than me on this topic. But I believe those are the basic elements. I use more of a hybrid approach that leans more organic these days

Rule of thumb you can always apply a little more but you can't take it back so go light and pay attention to what the leaves speak back to you
Click to expand...
So true.

My regimen is Fulvic Acid, Bokashi Leachate, Kelp Meal, Fish Hydrolysate, Liquid Seaweed, Molasses, Cal/Mag.

Last harvest (I think I posted the harvest on TomH's "Planning out the 2025 outdoor grow") was the absolute best buds I ever grew.

But, not all things are the same, so there's that. Without being too scientific, I think real Sun, real rain water and outdoor environmental factors also contributes to overall plant development. This is a far cry from my tent in my basement.

But its great to discuss all of this, I learn so much. Thanks
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom