Collecting Data - Flower RH%

[Observer]

Anyone do these parameters?

Argue why you don't or do.

Thank you.

 

[MDK]

I did them last time on my indoor run and I think it led to some septoria. I run quite a bit of perlite so my soil drys quicker and i can water more. I just feel like the water sat in the pots too long adding the extra humidity.

May try it again with better pruning but my autos did better under lower humidity

 

[Pipecarver]

Anyone do these parameters?

Argue why you don't or do.

Thank you.

I don't figure VPD ever. I just try and maintain lower than 60% in flower & above 60% in veg. Temp is what it is but I try for above 75f in flower through the winter months, VPD,& DLI, are just numbers to confuse me

 

[CannaGranny]

So, none of the choices apply to me. I do watch and maintain RH, but not like it‘s laid out. I run 55% at 75 degrees throughout veg. I bump it up to 60% the first three weeks of flower and then as soon as my flower forms about midway through ripening I lower the hell out of it, pushing it down to 35-40%.

 

[MDK]

So, none of the choices apply to me. I do watch and maintain RH, but not like it‘s laid out. I run 55% at 75 degrees throughout veg. I bump it up to 60% the first three weeks of flower and then as soon as my flower forms about midway through ripening I lower the hell out of it, pushing it down to 35-40%.

Mine is almost identical currently 78f 55% in veg. I had it up at around 62-65% and the plants just didn't seem to like it...looked all droopy

Turned off my humidifier and they perked right up

 

[Bandit420]

Well, I like those temps, but I like a much lower RH to frost 'em up. Lower RH = more oil production so I start at 50% and want to see it in the low 40s near ripening and have no issue if it drops into the 30s as I welcome it.

I work with ambient CO2 which can range from 450ppm in the Summer to 1200ppm in Winter when gas appliances like oven and fireplace are used more in the house. It's there but I don't pay much mind to what that number is as long as it's up over 300ppm which it always is.
In regards to VPD, never paid any mind to it and not gonna start now. I "read" plants though

 

[GoodShit97]

I vote other?

I dont monitor vpd at all.
I just run whatever i feel is right. I try to stay at or below a room temp of 80, and like 60% in week 1-3, then i start dropping it down week by week til im at 40%.
Vpd makes my head hurt dude.

Also dont monitor co2, nor do i know what it sits at.

 

[CannaGranny]

Well, I like those temps, but I like a much lower RH to frost 'em up. Lower RH = more oil production so I start at 50% and want to see it in the low 40s near ripening and have no issue if it drops into the 30s as I welcome it.

I work with ambient CO2 which can range from 450ppm in the Summer to 1200ppm in Winter when gas appliances like oven and fireplace are used more in the house. It's there but I don't pay much mind to what that number is as long as it's up over 300ppm which it always is.
In regards to VPD, never paid any mind to it and not gonna start now. I "read" plants though

I’m not running CO2. Like you as soon as I drop the humidity that beauty begins. Looks like a crystal frost I forgot to say that I bump my temps up to 82 during flower.

 

[Pipecarver]

Anyone do these parameters?

Argue why you don't or do.

Thank you.

I just ordered 2 more far red pucks for my 5x5, Have you done any more with your playing with spectrum's in your tents?

 

[Pipecarver]

I’m not running CO2. Like you as soon as I drop the humidity that beauty begins. Looks like a crystal frost I forgot to say that I bump my temps up to 82 during flower.

If I could I would but just getting it to 76f is a struggle for me in the winter. I'm more at the mercy of our weather, I can make some adjustments but during summer and winter extreme's I can only hope to get through it without a failure of some kind.

 

[Bandit420]

I’m not running CO2. Like you as soon as I drop the humidity that beauty begins. Looks like a crystal frost I forgot to say that I bump my temps up to 82 during flower.

I'm in the mindset of CO2 being a massive waste of money and effort.
I only see the need for it if say you grow in a warehouse with dozens of very large plants that can deplete the space of CO2 to less than 300ppm.

The idea of a "sealed" grow room IMO is a myth. CO2 is a moving and creeping gas that can make it's way thru the smallest cracks under a door, past hanging plastic, and load up a room full of the gas even if that room has exhaust and fresh air intake running.

For example, my grow room is double doored with exhaust running 24/7. In my main living room I can run my gas fireplace or oven in my kitchen for a long bake then a few minutes after they're on, go thru both doors of the g/room and see the monitor with a 1200 ppm reading. If I leave the doors open it can climb to 2000ppm.
When those appliances are off, between me, my wife, and pets we can keep CO2 well above the 300ppm minimum.
So I look at CO2 as more of a minimum requirement rather than trying to elevate it to a high number for enhanced growth especially since I don't see any difference in growth rates or yields between Summer grows at 400-700ppm and Winter grows at 1200+ppm.

I do like having the monitor for the gas though just to have that info. Seeing what it reads then watching what my plants do with it has only validated my idea that adding CO2 would be a huge waste for me

 

[Observer]

So, none of the choices apply to me. I do watch and maintain RH, but not like it‘s laid out. I run 55% at 75 degrees throughout veg. I bump it up to 60% the first three weeks of flower and then as soon as my flower forms about midway through ripening I lower the hell out of it, pushing it down to 35-40%.

I'll include that the veg in this scenario was also 85f 75rh.

Thank you for you're input, now why do you lower to 35-40%? Mold concerns or other logic?

 

[CannaGranny]

I'll include that the veg in this scenario was also 85f 75rh.

Thank you for you're input, now why do you lower to 35-40%? Mold concerns or other logic?

I lower the humidity to force a natural response in the plant. Those trichs by design are meant to protect the flower from certain things. Their real job is to ward off animals and protect the nucleus of the flower. So in essence if a threat is perceived in this case too dry, it kicks the trichs into a super production. End product, super frosty to the point that rolling it up feels like you have sand between your fingers.
When this happens the plant will also emit strong smells yet another part of that whole defense mechanism to ward off certain animals.
Just using what the plant would do in nature to benefit the quality of the grow.

 

[Observer]

I just ordered 2 more far red pucks for my 5x5, Have you done any more with your playing with spectrum's in your tents?

I have not since the 210 grow time period.

I got some knowledge/experience how they affect growth.

Blue light variable will also be a factor in shape uniformity and size

Next thing to play around with is, id be curious how they (blue/red) affect ripening.

I absolutely am not a fan of cell elongation (red)

Really kinda need a tunable spec LED to go ham with it.

 

[Observer]

I lower the humidity to force a natural response in the plant. Those trichs by design are meant to protect the flower from certain things. Their real job is to ward off animals and protect the nucleus of the flower. So in essence if a threat is perceived in this case too dry, it kicks the trichs into a super production. End product, super frosty to the point that rolling it up feels like you have sand between your fingers.
When this happens the plant will also emit strong smells yet another part of that whole defense mechanism to ward off certain animals.
Just using what the plant would do in nature to benefit the quality of the grow.

Excellent, so thats you're way of stressing them to produce secondary metabolites.

Hormone signaling.

Thank you cannagran.

 

[Observer]

I vote other?

I dont monitor vpd at all.
I just run whatever i feel is right. I try to stay at or below a room temp of 80, and like 60% in week 1-3, then i start dropping it down week by week til im at 40%.
Vpd makes my head hurt dude.

Also dont monitor co2, nor do i know what it sits at.

I meant to include other but ran out of time

 

[Observer]

Also the idea/claim is that the higher heat grows bigger buds.

 

[Observer]

If I could I would but just getting it to 76f is a struggle for me in the winter. I'm more at the mercy of our weather, I can make some adjustments but during summer and winter extreme's I can only hope to get through it without a failure of some kind.

Are these out of the question for ya?

Anyone running LEDs should be in the 80s F for growth rates assuming other factors aren't whacked either.

 

[Observer]

Thank you everyone

 

[MDK]

I bet a person could make a bad ass humidifier if you had a humidity switch and built a fogger of sorts to hook to it that kicks on when rh% is low and off when it's right...that may be somethin I look into because I damn near need 2 of the humidifiers im running or they never shut off some days....also I don't like the 10% range it has...set it to 65% and it will run up to 70% then shutoff and kick back on at 60% to maintain that 65 average....I'd rather the swing be +/- 2%

 

[GrumpAzz]

I bet a person could make a bad ass humidifier if you had a humidity switch and built a fogger of sorts to hook to it that kicks on when rh% is low and off when it's right...that may be somethin I look into because I damn near need 2 of the humidifiers im running or they never shut off some days....also I don't like the 10% range it has...set it to 65% and it will run up to 70% then shutoff and kick back on at 60% to maintain that 65 average....I'd rather the swing be +/- 2%

10 bucks gets you a slot in the raffle and a chance to win a big badass AC Infinity humidifier... 3 slots left.

 

[growsinse79]

Too humid for me. I try keep it under 60 always; running continuous harvest every 3 weeks or so.

 

[Pipecarver]

Are these out of the question for ya?

Anyone running LEDs should be in the 80s F for growth rates assuming other factors aren't whacked either.

I have one, a 1250 w but even on high running full it'll only get to 76f, when my basement furnace gets upstairs to 21f its only 68f in my basement, in the far corner where my 3x3 is its only 66f, my basement sucks out heat like a sponge sucking up water. the 1250w heater is trying to heat the whole basement.

I added blankets and foam insulation on top & sides to help retain the heat. I get nice color off them from the cool nights but it makes going through water more difficult and I've had problems drying out the soil enough to water again at times. I'm now in auto pots and with my chiller I can keep the roots warmer, it'll act like a heater for the res.

 

[MDK]

10 bucks gets you a slot in the raffle and a chance to win a big badass AC Infinity humidifier... 3 slots left.

I know man I want to but my old lady holds all the cards and e-commerce accounts....I live like a dealer from the 90s cash only so I got to ask permission basically no way around it.

When I ordered a 20 dollar 10pack of seeds she was pissed and said "i don't like this stuff getting traced back to me I don't want no part in it..."

Guess who isn't gonna have a part in the post harvest games?....not this guy

 

[LJFarming]

IMO there are no 2 rooms a like and so therefore you can’t go by a recommendation from anyone for the most part. There are soil growers that use various size pots and feed very differently because of it. There are Coco growers that run DTW that feed 8 maybe ten times per day. Then there is the true hydro growers that only use water and nutrients and let their plants go swimming all day.

NeXT everything has to be dialed in to the room. You can’t give the plants high EC 8 times per day and not provide enough light to make it useful or your throwing money away and after you get light and nutrients and a stable environment you can then add C02 and start pushing the plants even harder.

Lastly I don’t follow a VPD chart but learned a long time ago from an old head that the chart on temp and Rh that you posted from DJM on ICMAG is worthy of trying in a properly controlled LED room. LED rooms need to be around 85F after flip and if you are willing to run enough air circulation so that mold and PM can never form then the plants will always perform better in a high rh environment around 10 points less than temp. There is one other issue that must be addressed when doing this also and that is that you damn well not let the room temp drop over 10-12F at lights out or the potential for dew comes into play. The dehumidifier also has to work its ass off at lights out to keep the rH spike from creating dew as well.

So I guess what I’m saying is that it all depends on the room, equipment, grower, and the other 500 variables before anyone should take anything as the way and the light!

Peace out,

LJ

 

[Observer]

So, none of the choices apply to me. I do watch and maintain RH, but not like it‘s laid out. I run 55% at 75 degrees throughout veg. I bump it up to 60% the first three weeks of flower and then as soon as my flower forms about midway through ripening I lower the hell out of it, pushing it down to 35-40%.

Why 75f under LEDs?

 

[CannaGranny]

Why 75f under LEDs?

Cause that’s easy to maintain and lessens the probability of mold with the humidity so high. It will fluctuate as the seasons change. As soon as I actually move to a heat mode inside my home, that will come up a bit.

 

[Observer]

Cause that’s easy to maintain and lessens the probability of mold with the humidity so high. It will fluctuate as the seasons change. As soon as I actually move to a heat mode inside my home, that will come up a bit.

Gotcha

I'm running 82-86f and 60-76rh
In my experience so far, proper airflow through the canopy has been enough for me to not worry about WPM, only when it's a very thick and dense cola.

 

[CannaGranny]

Gotcha

I'm running 82-86f and 60-76rh
In my experience so far, proper airflow through the canopy has been enough for me to not worry about WPM, only when it's a very thick and dense cola.

Scrogging creates a very dense canopy and most all of the colas are thick.