Grow Room Paint color

LJFarming

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After a few years of growing and reading horror stories about Panda Film and possible mold and mildew between the Panda Film and the wall I decided to completely remodel my grow room. There were a couple other reasons as well. Anyways the person that has been my mentor for several years told me to paint the walls WARM WHITE with anti microbial bathroom/kitchen Enamel. My mentor has never steered me even slightly wrong and honestly I wouldn’t grow half the quality as well as yield I do today if it wasn’t for him.

However WARM WHITE seems just wrong to me! I would honestly think the WHITEST fucking glossiest fucking white available for purchase. I damn near have to go with his recommendation because as I said he has never steered me wrong.

However I am seriously hoping to get a few other options. Does warm white reflect the best spectrum or can anyone else tell me the reasoning? The walls are ready for primer and paint and I would truly appreciate any feedback from somebody that has been there done that!

Peace out,

LJ
 
Lj, the answer is probably that warm white is much more pleasing to the eye and will look attractive in photographs. I helped build the 3rd Home Depot store in Georgia and worked in the paint department. I also lived in a rental house that the owner had painted the interior glossy Pepto Bismol pink. Glossy paint is just plain hard to look at, mostly used for trim chair rails and cove molding inside stately homes. I advise 2 drops of eggshell blue in a white gallon can, makes an interior room or ceiling warmer. Glad you are priming your space, excellent and makes a difference in durability. I dont like cans of worms, but do know someone named Moe who painted his grow room black.
 
This is a can of worms. For… reasons.

Spectrum is near and dear to my heart and I can go off on tangents pretty easy so bear with me.

One of the reasons outdoor plants are bigger with ripe buds lower on the plant is that you get photons from every direction or at least more so than grow rooms. By making the walls reflect you are trying to use photons that missed the plant and redirect towards the bottom of the plant. Other than that there is no point to any color on the wall besides aesthetics.

When you start to look at reflectivity of different surfaces and colors you will find nothing you do to be overly meaningful in the ppfd boosting range. Especially as wavelengths get shorter. Short of a high polished mirror you will never bounce UVB for example. Even 1/4” of standard glass will block all uvb.

The other thing that happens when you bounce photons is they go from an additive to a subtractive light source. That gets into color theory. But the way subtractive works is that it can only remove photons by catching them in pigments. So anything other than a perfect mirror will knock down ppfd.

Adding tints to paint cannot improve the reflected light assuming what is coming out of your grow light is what you want. But the difference between white and off white in terms of useable ppfd - negligible imo.
 
I like white low sheen white melamine laminate..it has tiny bumps over the surface ..makes the photons bounce everywhere.
 
I have aluminum reflective panels on half my grow space and the rest either has poster art or is painted black.
I went with blackout because IMO it's better to have total blackout during lights off than the very minute xtra light benefit a reflective white wall may offer during lights on. My room once was white and today I cannot say having a black room has detracted anything compared to when it was all painted white. But I do know I can't see my hand in front of my face in there when it's dark.

If I changed anything in those regards it would be to red. I've read things about red ground cover increasing yields in tomatoes and once hung red mylar in my room for a few grows and didn't notice anything but if I ever feel like messing with that again I'll go with red
 
Thank you all for your replies! Perhaps I will go with purple to help persuade the flower to turn purple since every Comifornia Weed snob only likes purple flower these days. This is definitely the best broscience I have ever posted!!!!!

Moe Red: my mentors number 1 recommendation is Reflectex (spelling?) it basically sounds like the like the inside of a grow tent material. My problem with this is 1 it’s pretty expensive and 2 I still don’t think I want anything on the walls that might possibly create mold or mildew issues. Thoughts about this? Is there any notable PPFD gain from something like this? Thanks again everyone.

Peace out,

LJ
 
Paint them scratch and sniff, terps are more important that purple!

As light goes, absolutely your best lower penetration will come from a mirror surface. They can also create hot spots if not flat. The gains are still not life changing tho. With the inverse square law in place for PPFD/Distance, you are fighting an uphill battle. If you want better light use, doing a SCROG type grow will outperform anything you put on the walls many times over. Just don't grow buds where there is not a direct line to your light.

I'm trying to understand your mold concern, is this going up against a concrete basement wall?
 
I used a flat soft white, noticed no difference.
I have learned over the years when someone tells Me, oh that’s not the best or that won’t do, If it has always worked for me, my standard answer is, no shit? Then I go right back to doing what works for me.
I have used Mylar for several years and have never found mold etc. growing behind it. I guess it could happen if one does not control the RH.
 
Any white will work. As Moe said there really isn't much of a negligible difference in regards to photon reflection.

I had the same concerns about panda film creating mold pockets between film and wall. I fixed that by using a tack spray glue on the panda film and hung it like wallpaper. No mold pockets. Whenever the film needed to be replaced it was as easy as ripping it off the wall, wipe down the excess glue with a little thinner and rehang film.
 
There's negative refractive index metamaterials that bend electromagnetic spectrums, obviously this is way out of our reach, for now.

And curious how it would bounce photons back if at all, all I know is it bends the waves around the object, making it invisible.

-just discussion
 
Thank you all for your replies! Perhaps I will go with purple to help persuade the flower to turn purple since every Comifornia Weed snob only likes purple flower these days. This is definitely the best broscience I have ever posted!!!!!

Moe Red: my mentors number 1 recommendation is Reflectex (spelling?) it basically sounds like the like the inside of a grow tent material. My problem with this is 1 it’s pretty expensive and 2 I still don’t think I want anything on the walls that might possibly create mold or mildew issues. Thoughts about this? Is there any notable PPFD gain from something like this? Thanks again everyone.

Peace out,

LJ

Maybe 3-4 years ago I placed an order for all sorts of mylar colors and purple was one. UPS lost the package and the company, I think Hygloss?, wouldn't replace it so I got mad, didn't reorder, and went with my aluminum stuff.
But I'll always wonder about different colors of mylar, even if it's just to look cool 🥴
Paint them scratch and sniff, terps are more important that purple!

As light goes, absolutely your best lower penetration will come from a mirror surface. They can also create hot spots if not flat. The gains are still not life changing tho. With the inverse square law in place for PPFD/Distance, you are fighting an uphill battle. If you want better light use, doing a SCROG type grow will outperform anything you put on the walls many times over. Just don't grow buds where there is not a direct line to your light.

I'm trying to understand your mold concern, is this going up against a concrete basement wall?

Given that my par meter is Russian military surplus from Ukraine, I'm not too sure about what it reads but I do compare grow lights to the Sun using it's weird math.
So when I took a reading of an obviously intense reflection off the wall, it had about the same PPFD of a 5 watt worn out CFL with the meter actually touching the lamp 🙃
 
I can shit in one toilet, and go to another toilet to finish up now.

Moving up in the world.


(I'm mainly just trolling LJs thread, I suppose)

We talk
 
After a few years of growing and reading horror stories about Panda Film and possible mold and mildew between the Panda Film and the wall I decided to completely remodel my grow room. There were a couple other reasons as well. Anyways the person that has been my mentor for several years told me to paint the walls WARM WHITE with anti microbial bathroom/kitchen Enamel. My mentor has never steered me even slightly wrong and honestly I wouldn’t grow half the quality as well as yield I do today if it wasn’t for him.

However WARM WHITE seems just wrong to me! I would honestly think the WHITEST fucking glossiest fucking white available for purchase. I damn near have to go with his recommendation because as I said he has never steered me wrong.

However I am seriously hoping to get a few other options. Does warm white reflect the best spectrum or can anyone else tell me the reasoning? The walls are ready for primer and paint and I would truly appreciate any feedback from somebody that has been there done that!

Peace out,

LJ
Years ago there was a article of the reflective properties of different manufacturers "flat white"

Sherwin Williams is what i painted my rooms
 
Paint them scratch and sniff, terps are more important that purple!

As light goes, absolutely your best lower penetration will come from a mirror surface. They can also create hot spots if not flat. The gains are still not life changing tho. With the inverse square law in place for PPFD/Distance, you are fighting an uphill battle. If you want better light use, doing a SCROG type grow will outperform anything you put on the walls many times over. Just don't grow buds where there is not a direct line to your light.

I'm trying to understand your mold concern, is this going up against a concrete basement wall?
The mold concern came from probably some bullshit broscience I came across and I honestly have no idea where I read it/saw it. It was about 3-4 grows ago and then stoner grower paranoia became the problem! I am definitely regretting after discussing it but at this point I’m definitely painting the drywall in the building and not putting panda film back. There was absolutely no issue when I took the panda film down so again definitely stoner paranoia! I’m still ok with what I did but definitely was likely a waste of money and time. I have the proper equipment and control to keep the environment pretty much right where I want it so again that part of the remodel was probably a waste of time and money.
The biggest thing I wanted was the drop ceiling removed to gain the 18-20 inches in height. I have always Scroged every grow but after stretch I always wished I could lift the lights up higher and oven ended up with the lights 6-10 inches above the scrog net. Probably grower error, neglect, or laziness but with the tray table height and max light height I might have had 48 inches total between. I tried lowering the tray tables but IMO that sucked to bend over half the grow to do what’s necessary.

Also my grow room is a 50 year old metal outbuilding converted from an old ranch office if that makes for more discussion?

Again thanks Moe
 
Flat white with extra titanium dioxide is the bees. Most places that mix paint will add extra Titanium if you ask them to.
 
Flat white with extra titanium dioxide is the bees. Most places that mix paint will add extra Titanium if you ask them to.
Ooo clever

The titanium particles reflect and scatter uva-uvb wonder how it does for the other spectrum.

-2s Google search lol
 
Flat white with extra titanium dioxide is the bees. Most places that mix paint will add extra Titanium if you ask them to.
that's the white i've always used for my canvas work, and will be using for the dining room. you want a white that's whiter than white? titanium white is it.
 
Is it insulated?
2x6 eight foot interior walls and matching insulation and R13 metal building insulation attached to the ceiling/roof. I have been growing in the same building for almost 4 years with no environmental control issues. However after removing the drop ceiling I spent all damn day sealing light leaks and the corrugated parts of the building above the drop ceiling IMG_4311.jpegIMG_4315.jpegIMG_4316.jpegIMG_4317.jpegIMG_4311.jpegIMG_4315.jpegIMG_4316.jpegIMG_4314.jpegIMG_4317.jpegand preparing new insulation for between the original 8 foot drywall walls and the ceiling from tearing out the drop ceiling. PALM TO FACE it probably would have been cheaper for a lifetime of OCD counseling as well as everything was probably fine but since I’m retired I always find a way to spend unnecessary money and waste time doing projects that are probably unnecessary. MAJOR FACE FUCKING PALM!!!!

If you have any suggestions or advice I would really appreciate them!

No clue how I duplicated the pictures sorry. You

Peace out,

LJ
Is it insulated?
 
2x6 eight foot interior walls and matching insulation and R13 metal building insulation attached to the ceiling/roof. I have been growing in the same building for almost 4 years with no environmental control issues. However after removing the drop ceiling I spent all damn day sealing light leaks and the corrugated parts of the building above the drop ceiling View attachment 20068View attachment 20069View attachment 20070View attachment 20072View attachment 20068View attachment 20069View attachment 20070View attachment 20071View attachment 20072and preparing new insulation for between the original 8 foot drywall walls and the ceiling from tearing out the drop ceiling. PALM TO FACE it probably would have been cheaper for a lifetime of OCD counseling as well as everything was probably fine but since I’m retired I always find a way to spend unnecessary money and waste time doing projects that are probably unnecessary. MAJOR FACE FUCKING PALM!!!!

If you have any suggestions or advice I would really appreciate them!

No clue how I duplicated the pictures sorry. You

Peace out,

LJ
Nice man getting shit done.
 
2x6 eight foot interior walls and matching insulation and R13 metal building insulation attached to the ceiling/roof. I have been growing in the same building for almost 4 years with no environmental control issues. However after removing the drop ceiling I spent all damn day sealing light leaks and the corrugated parts of the building above the drop ceiling View attachment 20068View attachment 20069View attachment 20070View attachment 20072View attachment 20068View attachment 20069View attachment 20070View attachment 20071View attachment 20072and preparing new insulation for between the original 8 foot drywall walls and the ceiling from tearing out the drop ceiling. PALM TO FACE it probably would have been cheaper for a lifetime of OCD counseling as well as everything was probably fine but since I’m retired I always find a way to spend unnecessary money and waste time doing projects that are probably unnecessary. MAJOR FACE FUCKING PALM!!!!

If you have any suggestions or advice I would really appreciate them!

No clue how I duplicated the pictures sorry. You

Peace out,

LJ
I hear ya. Everytime it was time to present the finished buildout to the client I'd see little shit that means nothing catch my eye and fuck with my OCD. I knew the client would never know but it would bug me nonetheless.

Don't sweat it. I justify it by telling myself I'll be spending a lot of time in this building. Set it up to your satisfaction.

Everything looks great. Paint it, seal the floor and you should be good to go.
 
2x6 eight foot interior walls and matching insulation and R13 metal building insulation attached to the ceiling/roof. I have been growing in the same building for almost 4 years with no environmental control issues. However after removing the drop ceiling I spent all damn day sealing light leaks and the corrugated parts of the building above the drop ceiling View attachment 20068View attachment 20069View attachment 20070View attachment 20072View attachment 20068View attachment 20069View attachment 20070View attachment 20071View attachment 20072and preparing new insulation for between the original 8 foot drywall walls and the ceiling from tearing out the drop ceiling. PALM TO FACE it probably would have been cheaper for a lifetime of OCD counseling as well as everything was probably fine but since I’m retired I always find a way to spend unnecessary money and waste time doing projects that are probably unnecessary. MAJOR FACE FUCKING PALM!!!!

If you have any suggestions or advice I would really appreciate them!

No clue how I duplicated the pictures sorry. You

Peace out,

LJ
here are a couple things I would probably consider. With R13 in the ceiling I would probably consider some additional insulation. Thinking some 2" foam in the ceiling friction fit between the beams and duct tape at the joints. Additionally I would consider some unistrut and attach to the beams with Beam clips, this will allow some movement of lights and equipment if needed. If you are interested in filling out the room as best as possible I would consider rolling trays so you can get to all 4 sides of each tray. Did the temperature in the room go up with you took out the drop ceiling? It does provide some insulation because of the air it traps and ceiling tiles.
 
here are a couple things I would probably consider. With R13 in the ceiling I would probably consider some additional insulation. Thinking some 2" foam in the ceiling friction fit between the beams and duct tape at the joints. Additionally I would consider some unistrut and attach to the beams with Beam clips, this will allow some movement of lights and equipment if needed. If you are interested in filling out the room as best as possible I would consider rolling trays so you can get to all 4 sides of each tray. Did the temperature in the room go up with you took out the drop ceiling? It does provide some insulation because of the air it traps and ceiling tiles.
Definitely pivot tables to maximize both grow floor space and workability.
 
here are a couple things I would probably consider. With R13 in the ceiling I would probably consider some additional insulation. Thinking some 2" foam in the ceiling friction fit between the beams and duct tape at the joints. Additionally I would consider some unistrut and attach to the beams with Beam clips, this will allow some movement of lights and equipment if needed. If you are interested in filling out the room as best as possible I would consider rolling trays so you can get to all 4 sides of each tray. Did the temperature in the room go up with you took out the drop ceiling? It does provide some insulation because of the air it traps and ceiling tiles.

Thank you Anthem,

All my tray tables are on wheels already. I got the rollerblade wheel casters from Amazon cheap in the beginning. They were actually way cheaper than the ones Hawthorn offered and roll like a dream.

When I tore the drop ceiling out I lost 6 inches of insulation that rested on top of it and honestly still trying to figure out the cleanest way to add insulation back.

All of my lights hang on hoists and are on a shall we say redneck sliding system? I the hoists are mounted to 2x6s and slide wherever I want them resting between the metal ceiling joists on both sides of the room. The hydro company rip off artists wanted $1100 for a light lifter and these Chinese hoists that lift 220 pounds were $59 each last year on Black Friday on Amazon. So far so good and no complaints about them.

Thank you Anthem and I will definitely be reaching out again soon to discuss insulation recommendations. Right now I’m thinking 2x6 insulation and somehow suspending in between the metal roof joists. But I definitely have not put very much thought into it as of yet. I know I need to because climate/environment control/ electricity costs about 3 times the national average in Comifornia.

Pro tip to anyone who has SCE for power and probably the rest of them in Cali and possibly the Nation. If you switch your rate plan and tell them you have and Electric Vehicle your rate per KWH gets cut by 50ish percent. They didn’t ask for any proof and probably are very happy about the amount of electricity being used for any grow room.

Peace out,

LJ
 
Thank you Anthem,

All my tray tables are on wheels already. I got the rollerblade wheel casters from Amazon cheap in the beginning. They were actually way cheaper than the ones Hawthorn offered and roll like a dream.

When I tore the drop ceiling out I lost 6 inches of insulation that rested on top of it and honestly still trying to figure out the cleanest way to add insulation back.

All of my lights hang on hoists and are on a shall we say redneck sliding system? I the hoists are mounted to 2x6s and slide wherever I want them resting between the metal ceiling joists on both sides of the room. The hydro company rip off artists wanted $1100 for a light lifter and these Chinese hoists that lift 220 pounds were $59 each last year on Black Friday on Amazon. So far so good and no complaints about them.

Thank you Anthem and I will definitely be reaching out again soon to discuss insulation recommendations. Right now I’m thinking 2x6 insulation and somehow suspending in between the metal roof joists. But I definitely have not put very much thought into it as of yet. I know I need to because climate/environment control/ electricity costs about 3 times the national average in Comifornia.

Pro tip to anyone who has SCE for power and probably the rest of them in Cali and possibly the Nation. If you switch your rate plan and tell them you have and Electric Vehicle your rate per KWH gets cut by 50ish percent. They didn’t ask for any proof and probably are very happy about the amount of electricity being used for any grow room.

Peace out,

LJ
Say my buddy mentioned something like that to me also but when I went on the SCE site the rates where the same.
 
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