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SSHZ does B2ACG's Roswell Code and Honey Fried Banana's........

Some quick notes too.........

Maintaining about a 420 ppm at 6.3 in regular Pro-Mix. Nothing added to that. I'll add some pure soap on and off in waterings to help the promix stay loose (no compacting). This mix tends to harden over time and much of the watering goes off to the sides and out the pots. The soap helps the water become more "slippery" and run thru the promix more easily.

As usual, using the Botanicare Pure Blend Pro, r.o. water, General Hydoponics pH up and down, and various manufacturers's Cal/Mag. I've already added the yellow sticky gnat traps to the soil and I'll have to think about what I will spray them with just before budding begins.

Otherwise, the Roswell Codes would have become VERY large if I had let them.............I've removed a lot of small branches and large leaves from this side of the room. The Honey Fried Bananas (here after abbreviated to HFB) are smaller in stature. I did not top this crop, let's see how short the Gravita can keep them.
 
SSHZ said:
Some quick notes too.........

Maintaining about a 420 ppm at 6.3 in regular Pro-Mix. Nothing added to that. I'll add some pure soap on and off in waterings to help the promix stay loose (no compacting). This mix tends to harden over time and much of the watering goes off to the sides and out the pots. The soap helps the water become more "slippery" and run thru the promix more easily.

As usual, using the Botanicare Pure Blend Pro, r.o. water, General Hydoponics pH up and down, and various manufacturers's Cal/Mag. I've already added the yellow sticky gnat traps to the soil and I'll have to think about what I will spray them with just before budding begins.

Otherwise, the Roswell Codes would have become VERY large if I had let them.............I've removed a lot of small branches and large leaves from this side of the room. The Honey Fried Bananas (here after abbreviated to HFB) are smaller in stature. I did not top this crop, let's see how short the Gravita can keep them.
Click to expand...

i just sprouted a couple HFB, i look forward to hearing how you like it.

.

they all look great man, the RC look like some solid bushes!
 
Go back, look at the HFB and notice in the row closest to you- 2 distinct pheno's. One with a single main cola, the others that naturally have multiple tops with no topping. I didn't top for any reason other than laziness...........but it's rare to show themselves so early on.

I'm also not pushing these light wise either- I'm keeping the led's at a safe distance, to ward off any yellowing from light bleaching.
 
These homemade gummies will put you on your ass.........my only complaint is they act as an antihistamine, and dry me out terribly. But it's a small price to pay......... I started with 28 oz of coconut oil double boiled with 4.5 oz of pot (4 different strains) for 4 hours.

image.jpg
 
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Makes sense.....

"Marijuana gummies can cause dry mouth (cottonmouth) because the THC in them interacts with cannabinoid receptors in the salivary glands, reducing saliva production. This interaction, rather than dehydration, is the primary reason for the dry mouth sensation."
 
SSHZ said:
Some quick notes too.........

Maintaining about a 420 ppm at 6.3 in regular Pro-Mix. Nothing added to that. I'll add some pure soap on and off in waterings to help the promix stay loose (no compacting). This mix tends to harden over time and much of the watering goes off to the sides and out the pots. The soap helps the water become more "slippery" and run thru the promix more easily.

As usual, using the Botanicare Pure Blend Pro, r.o. water, General Hydoponics pH up and down, and various manufacturers's Cal/Mag. I've already added the yellow sticky gnat traps to the soil and I'll have to think about what I will spray them with just before budding begins.

Otherwise, the Roswell Codes would have become VERY large if I had let them.............I've removed a lot of small branches and large leaves from this side of the room. The Honey Fried Bananas (here after abbreviated to HFB) are smaller in stature. I did not top this crop, let's see how short the Gravita can keep them.
Click to expand...
Soap? in your Promix? I add perlite to prevent compacting up to 40% but only in the last pot or it makes transplanting awkward. What kind of soap do you use? That just sounds scary to me, I know knot about it.
 
"Dr. Bronner's Castile Soap is an effective insecticidal spray for garden pests like aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs, and spider mites." It can also be watered into pots.........at a rate of 2 tablespoons per pint of water.

Soap should not be more than 2% of the total solution....with that, you'll be fine adding it. Above that %, issues could happen and you could degrade the medium and change the balance in the soil.
 
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When you say your around 420 ppm is that promag and nutrients. Been following your grows for a while now and my grows have improved 200% just wish i would have found your journals a few years sooner. Thanks for sharing
 
SSHZ said:
"Dr. Bronner's Castile Soap is an effective insecticidal spray for garden pests like aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs, and spider mites." It can also be watered into pots.........at a rate of 2 tablespoons per pint of water.

Soap should not be more than 2% of the total solution....with that, you'll be fine adding it. Above that %, issues could happen and you could degrade the medium and change the balance of the soil.
Click to expand...
I use Safer’s but not intentionally in the soil. Overspray always occurs. 👊
 
Promix doesn't add anything to the ppm of the soil, after the first 10 day when the initial fertilizer charge is used up. The ppm is solely from the grow/bloom fertilizer and Cal/Mag. Actually the starting r.o. water has about 30 ppm in it too..........

Safers and the castile soap are basically the same thing and work by smothering the insects so they can't breath.
 
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SSHZ said:
Promix doesn't add anything to the ppm of the soil, after the first 10 day when the initial fertilizer charge is used up. The ppm is solely from the grow/bloom fertilizer and Cal/Mag. Actually the starting r.o. water has about 30 ppm in it too..........

Safers and the castile soap are basically the same thing and work by smothering the insects so they can't breath.
Click to expand...
That's why when transplanting from Solo cup to 1 gal pots you can go 3-4 weeks without the need of feed. If I transplant and water at 2 weeks then again at 3-4 weeks into their final pot there's no need to feed, they get a fresh wash of the starter nutes in the soil each time I water after a transplant.
 
Are you still using IR lights if so what kind and when do you start using them also how much do you think they help in bud quality
 
This has been discussed on this site a few times..........I own 2 California Lightworks Solar System UVB's. Here's a pic below. I have used them on and off over the past 4-5 years or so but basically stopped using them as the plants tend to have a negative reaction from them- "exposure to UVB radiation can negatively affect plant growth and development. It can damage DNA, impair photosynthesis, reduce productivity, and alter plant morphology. Plants may exhibit symptoms like yellowing or whitening of leaves, stunted or twisted growth, and reduced viability of pollen".........leaf curl and reduced yield I think are the main issues. But with that, I think it's safe to say that it does increase resin production as the plant produces more as a defense mechanism to the UV. It can also reduce or eliminate mites and insect issues, as they don't like the UV either.

After my last crop where I used it on the Black Cherry, I'm planning on using them on both sides of the room moving forward. Numerous breeders and growers swear by them, even with the negatives. The plan is to use them the last 3 weeks of flowering. This current crop will go 8 weeks, so I'll start using them in week 6, 1 hour a day. Then in week 7, go to 2 hours a day and in the last week, up it to 3 hours daily.

So, bottom line is plant health suffers a bit but I'm willing to trade that for more resin. I'll document it moving forward with this grow........image.jpg
 
Take note to follow manufacturers recommended hanging height, based on room size and plants height. I have them at a distance that correct for a 5 x 5 room but adjust them if the plants are shorter or taller. Obviously plants directly under the bulb will receive more UV than plants at the corners. You can rotate things around to balance what they receive or do what I do and say f*ck it and don't be bothered with it.

Also, you don't want to be in the room when they are on as they are very bad for your skin, eyes, etc..........
 
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