2Bad’s 2nd Dry Amendments Grow!

2Bad

Dank Daredevil
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Using 50/25/25
Promix Bx/Earth w castings/ perlite

Put into solo cups on 4-20

Moved to 1 gallons on May 7th

And will be transplanting this weekend.

April 28th

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May 8th
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And today 🥹
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Will keep you updated!
 
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Those look like they might be clones? What are they?

How many grows do you have under your belt now? Seems like you have been at this about 2 years now?

You have any problems with bugs like whiteflies in your promix? Mosh just got killed by about a million of them. That's what scares me most about moving to soil.
 
Those look like they might be clones? What are they?

How many grows do you have under your belt now? Seems like you have been at this about 2 years now?

You have any problems with bugs like whiteflies in your promix? Mosh just got killed by about a million of them. That's what scares me most about moving to soil.
Yes they're all clones. This is my 4th grow and yep 2 years next month!

I haven't had any pests yet. I leave my bag of promix in my living room for a few days just incase hoping that if there is bugs they go searching for food somewhere else.
 
Those look like they might be clones? What are they?

How many grows do you have under your belt now? Seems like you have been at this about 2 years now?

You have any problems with bugs like whiteflies in your promix? Mosh just got killed by about a million of them. That's what scares me most about moving to soil.
I use at the start of every new grow

Stratiolaelaps Scimitus been lucky never had bug problems Predater mites.​

 
Stratiolaelaps Scimitus formerly Hypoaspis Miles are tiny (1 mm.), tan mites. This generalist soil predatory mite, is capable of controlling Fungus Gnat larvae, Thrip Pupae, Springtails, Black Vine Weevil ,Strawberry Weevil, and Sciarid Flies. Stratiolaelaps live in the top layers of soil and soil-less mixes. These mites can live without food for weeks and can be easily established in your crop.
 
Those look like they might be clones? What are they?

How many grows do you have under your belt now? Seems like you have been at this about 2 years now?

You have any problems with bugs like whiteflies in your promix? Mosh just got killed by about a million of them. That's what scares me most about moving to soil.
Yeah but every thing went bad at once the air con - im sure the 90 degree nites and 100 degree days didn’t help and that’s the worst I’ve seen in 4 years of using it - DE will be used for all soil going forward
 
Stratiolaelaps Scimitus formerly Hypoaspis Miles are tiny (1 mm.), tan mites. This generalist soil predatory mite, is capable of controlling Fungus Gnat larvae, Thrip Pupae, Springtails, Black Vine Weevil ,Strawberry Weevil, and Sciarid Flies. Stratiolaelaps live in the top layers of soil and soil-less mixes. These mites can live without food for weeks and can be easily established in your crop.
Where do you get them?
 
Yeah but every thing went bad at once the air con - im sure the 90 degree nites and 100 degree days didn’t help and that’s the worst I’ve seen in 4 years of using it - DE will be used for all soil going forward
Just got some DE myself.

Would you sterilize the soil if you were me?

Sorry 2Bad for the hijhack,. I'm starting my first soil grow. Trying to learn all I can but I should be getting started Sunday on this. Ready to rock some dirt.
 
My experience is a top dress of DE goes a long way in stopping anything that has made its home in the soil. Once they crawl out or through the de on top, they are toast. Indoors, I've had some minor gnat problems here and there. I have yet to have mites or any other harder to control critters indoors. Outdoors is a different story ... no mites yet but plenty of leaf hoppers and other insects looking for a meal.

If you want to sterilize your soil mix, I've heard of people using pressure cookers or extra large insta-pots although I have not ever done that myself.
 
Just got some DE myself.

Would you sterilize the soil if you were me?

Sorry 2Bad for the hijhack,. I'm starting my first soil grow. Trying to learn all I can but I should be getting started Sunday on this. Ready to rock some dirt.
You're so good my guy. This is why I posted I like the conversation. By the way don't fill your pots to the top. I always leave like 4-5 inches now because when you top dress in late flower the dry amendments can get hard/soil gets hydrophobic. And to fix that I just put a bit of soil on top of the top dressing ...learned this from Shaded_one
 
My experience is a top dress of DE goes a long way in stopping anything that has made its home in the soil. Once they crawl out or through the de on top, they are toast. Indoors, I've had some minor gnat problems here and there. I have yet to have mites or any other harder to control critters indoors. Outdoors is a different story ... no mites yet but plenty of leaf hoppers and other insects looking for a meal.

If you want to sterilize your soil mix, I've heard of people using pressure cookers or extra large insta-pots although I have not ever done that myself.
I grow mushrooms so I have the equipment.

It's really about the should I? I'm killing off any good stuff too.
 
Target: Stratiolaelaps scimitus is a soil dwelling, predatory mite. Nymphs and adults feed on a wide variety of soil organisms including sciarid fly (fungus gnats), shore fly larvae and springtails, and other species of mites (including “red phase” two spotted spider mites). Eggs and pupae are hardly ever eaten as they prefer small larvae. They will also feed on Thrip larvae which drop to the soil to pupate, (and larvae from soil breeding thrips), and can help control Thrip infestations by limiting the size of the next generation. However, it cannot protect against adult thrips invading from outside. Release: Release at sundown, as soon as received. It is possible to store a short time if necessary. Place the bottles horizontally in a cool 10o - 15oC and dark place. To release, gently rotate the shaker canister to distribute the mites evenly among the peat mix. Open the screw-top, remove the filter paper, re-secure the top and gently tap them out of the bottle onto the slightly damp growing medium or soil. The mites should be released on dirt and gravel floors, under benches & ground covers or any place larvae may develop. Concentrate the bulk of them at the most heavily infested or most active breeding areas. Leave the canister in the treatment area for 24 hours to ensure all mites have exited. Stratiolaelaps seldom climb into the plants. Rate: 1L/100m2 (1000ft2 ), or 1L/500-1000 plants. For cucumbers 4-8L/ .4ha (1 acre), and for peppers 10-12L/ .4ha (1 acre). To control “red phase” or dormancy stage of two spotted spider mites, use 100 at the base of every support post and 300 per meter of wall. Stratiolaelaps will use the two spotted spider mites as a food source for the winter. Notes: • 20o -30oC (68o -86o F), is very tolerant of a variety of conditions except freezing and flooding. It survives mild winters but becomes inactive at 14oC (57o F). • Best protection occurs when applied to the soil before pest populations are established allowing their numbers to build. • Also use Beneficial Nematodes for fungus gnat control & Yellow Sticky Cards for fungus gnat monitoring and trapping. • Use along with Neoseiulus cucumeris to control thrips. • Stratiolaelaps scimitus is very susceptible to various pesticides. Caution is advised when chemically treating other pests
 
If you sterilize the soil your killing the good stuff you would have to amend it to put everything back in.
 
Those look like they might be clones? What are they?

How many grows do you have under your belt now? Seems like you have been at this about 2 years now?

You have any problems with bugs like whiteflies in your promix? Mosh just got killed by about a million of them. That's what scares me most about moving to soil.

Have you looked much into beneficial nematodes? That will for sure take a IPM to the next level. Can make your soil so healthy that you actually wish for pests just so the nematodes can party hardy. Imo though they only go so far as the soil goes. Pests would get smashed if get into your soil but nematodes don't do anything for the fkrs that don't seem to care you even have soil
 
Target: Stratiolaelaps scimitus is a soil dwelling, predatory mite. Nymphs and adults feed on a wide variety of soil organisms including sciarid fly (fungus gnats), shore fly larvae and springtails, and other species of mites (including “red phase” two spotted spider mites). Eggs and pupae are hardly ever eaten as they prefer small larvae. They will also feed on Thrip larvae which drop to the soil to pupate, (and larvae from soil breeding thrips), and can help control Thrip infestations by limiting the size of the next generation. However, it cannot protect against adult thrips invading from outside. Release: Release at sundown, as soon as received. It is possible to store a short time if necessary. Place the bottles horizontally in a cool 10o - 15oC and dark place. To release, gently rotate the shaker canister to distribute the mites evenly among the peat mix. Open the screw-top, remove the filter paper, re-secure the top and gently tap them out of the bottle onto the slightly damp growing medium or soil. The mites should be released on dirt and gravel floors, under benches & ground covers or any place larvae may develop. Concentrate the bulk of them at the most heavily infested or most active breeding areas. Leave the canister in the treatment area for 24 hours to ensure all mites have exited. Stratiolaelaps seldom climb into the plants. Rate: 1L/100m2 (1000ft2 ), or 1L/500-1000 plants. For cucumbers 4-8L/ .4ha (1 acre), and for peppers 10-12L/ .4ha (1 acre). To control “red phase” or dormancy stage of two spotted spider mites, use 100 at the base of every support post and 300 per meter of wall. Stratiolaelaps will use the two spotted spider mites as a food source for the winter. Notes: • 20o -30oC (68o -86o F), is very tolerant of a variety of conditions except freezing and flooding. It survives mild winters but becomes inactive at 14oC (57o F). • Best protection occurs when applied to the soil before pest populations are established allowing their numbers to build. • Also use Beneficial Nematodes for fungus gnat control & Yellow Sticky Cards for fungus gnat monitoring and trapping. • Use along with Neoseiulus cucumeris to control thrips. • Stratiolaelaps scimitus is very susceptible to various pesticides. Caution is advised when chemically treating other pests

Ya mon totally agree "
Also use Beneficial Nematodes for fungus gnat control & Yellow Sticky Cards for fungus gnat monitoring and trapping. • Use along with Neoseiulus cucumeris to control thrips. • Stratiolaelaps scimitus is very susceptible to various pesticides. Caution is advised when chemically treating other pests"

I bought these and let them die in fridge before ever using :cry: https://www.amazon.com/BioLogic-Sca...ywords=BioLogic+Company&qid=1685132736&sr=8-1
 
Have you looked much into beneficial nematodes? That will for sure take a IPM to the next level. Can make your soil so healthy that you actually wish for pests just so the nematodes can party hardy. Imo though they only go so far as the soil goes. Pests would get smashed if get into your soil but nematodes don't do anything for the fkrs that don't seem to care you even have soil
Where do you get them?
 
Where do you get them?
Suspect quite a few places but I think it may have been @organic_cannabis_indoor who 1st told me about them a while back. I believe he recommended these or something close. I bought this and never used them and they go bad if left to die in fridge for too many months. Idiot clown move but likely not my last.
Just my limited 4 grow over a year in soil experience but @organic_cannabis_indoor 1st told me about having an IPM and from then on I sort of saw it like a game of war. You against them and what tools you can have before, during, and after a battle. Below are all things I believe you already know but are what I consider part of my IPM


in no specific order..
Top soil. Keep it fertigated too frequently and the de fungiiii gnatos will attempt to say F Yo IPM!
Beneficial Nematodes and/or predatory mites will battle anything that gets into the soil
Sticky traps alert you of invasion attempts
Neem Seed Meal. Down to Earth makes a 6-1-2 and I just sprinkle into top soil, They no likey
Mosquito Bits/Dunks. Host of pests don't seem to like it and is easy to use
Cinnamon. Natural and the aliens seem to be offended by it
Neem seed oil. I have some but Sensei CG spooked me about using long ago, so it sits on the shelf, mad-dog eye-balling me as another poor purchase lol
Not sure about this one but I am trying it just by stoners chance now anyway, but electro-culture appears to have some pretty old-school validity to it

"This little-known technology, called Electro-culture, can accelerate growth rates, increase yields, and improve crop quality. Electro-culture can protect plants from diseases, insects and frost. These methods also can reduce the requirements for fertilizer or pesticides. Farmers can grow bigger and better crops in less time, with less effort, and at a lower cost."
-source- https://www.hempbasics.com/hhusb/hh5elc.htm
 
@Coco Lopez

Thanks fellas! I'm excited to see how it looks. Never done just a single strain in my tent this will be nuts/beautiful for me.

Yeah I'm going the 1-strain-grow route next time as well. I love variety just as much as the next person but the changes in demands between strains is enough to make any one go bald
 
Suspect quite a few places but I think it may have been @organic_cannabis_indoor who 1st told me about them a while back. I believe he recommended these or something close. I bought this and never used them and they go bad if left to die in fridge for too many months. Idiot clown move but likely not my last.
Just my limited 4 grow over a year in soil experience but @organic_cannabis_indoor 1st told me about having an IPM and from then on I sort of saw it like a game of war. You against them and what tools you can have before, during, and after a battle. Below are all things I believe you already know but are what I consider part of my IPM


in no specific order..
Top soil. Keep it fertigated too frequently and the de fungiiii gnatos will attempt to say F Yo IPM!
Beneficial Nematodes and/or predatory mites will battle anything that gets into the soil
Sticky traps alert you of invasion attempts
Neem Seed Meal. Down to Earth makes a 6-1-2 and I just sprinkle into top soil, They no likey
Mosquito Bits/Dunks. Host of pests don't seem to like it and is easy to use
Cinnamon. Natural and the aliens seem to be offended by it
Neem seed oil. I have some but Sensei CG spooked me about using long ago, so it sits on the shelf, mad-dog eye-balling me as another poor purchase lol
Not sure about this one but I am trying it just by stoners chance now anyway, but electro-culture appears to have some pretty old-school validity to it

"This little-known technology, called Electro-culture, can accelerate growth rates, increase yields, and improve crop quality. Electro-culture can protect plants from diseases, insects and frost. These methods also can reduce the requirements for fertilizer or pesticides. Farmers can grow bigger and better crops in less time, with less effort, and at a lower cost."
-source- https://www.hempbasics.com/hhusb/hh5elc.htm
No diatomaceous Earth?
 
Yeah I'm going the 1-strain-grow route next time as well. I love variety just as much as the next person but the changes in demands between strains is enough to make any one go bald
I'd do multiple strains I just haven't found any other good genetics. :cry: luckily this one is top tier and flowers fast
 
No diatomaceous Earth?
Yeah for sure would add but I haven't yet. Honestly it is likely only because I haven't had any need for anything else yet. I had a handful of gnats each grow but this one and few grows back a couple silvertails, but I don't even think they are harmful. I have seen people use DE with much success though. Just last night was watchin on FB and a couple had like 10 plants outside and dude was using DE in a bag with small holes and "smokin" them with the dust. All over the leaves and such and also the top soil. Pretty sure it also has other benefits to the soil.
 
Yeah I'm going the 1-strain-grow route next time as well. I love variety just as much as the next person but the changes in demands between strains is enough to make any one go bald
1000% and with these 8 strains behind me oof I feel ya. I am so lookin forward to 1 or 2 strains and 1 or 2 per tent
 
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