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Nesta’s DWC Attempt

I would recommend changing out the res or diluting your ppm down some, or both. If it were me, I'd shoot for 400 and see how she likes that. Rising ppm and dropping pH indicates your nutrient solution is too hot.

Is this Apples and Bananas strain? Noticing some 3 finger fans here and there which might indicate stress unless it's genetic.
 
SweetLeafGrow said:
I would recommend changing out the res or diluting your ppm down some, or both. If it were me, I'd shoot for 400 and see how she likes that. Rising ppm and dropping pH indicates your nutrient solution is too hot.

Is this Apples and Bananas strain? Noticing some 3 finger fans here and there which might indicate stress unless it's genetic.
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Stupid question. Are you just adding pH’d water to dilute your ppm down?
 
Pretty much yes. I do add some cal/mag cause I'm using RO water. Later in flower I skip the cal/mag and just just plain RO.

Sometimes I don't pH the water, for example if my pH in my res is low, my RO water is higher, so that brings things in the res up some, sometimes all I need with no adjusters.
 
I’m trying to peep your plants and zoom in but the resolution is low. From what I can see plant is happy.

Agree that in your case rising ppm and lower ph means dilute.

I’ll say that adding just ro water will not stabilize ph. There is nothing in there to resist change. Do you have any silica products on the shelf? I don’t recall your water source?

Lowering ph if it moves quickly is a red flag for root health. How long does it take to go from 5.8 to 5.5, and does it climb overnight?
 
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Moe.Red said:
I’m trying to peep your plants and zoom in but the resolution is low. From what I can see plant is happy.

Agree that in your case rising ppm and lower ph means dilute.

I’ll say that adding just ro water will not stabilize ph. There is nothing in there to resist change. Do you have any silica products on the shelf? I don’t recall your water source?

Lowering ph if it moves quickly is a red flag for root health. How long does it take to go from 5.8 to 5.5, and does it climb overnight?
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I ended up changing the res and started the GH trio with Armor SI and Cali-Magic. Everything looks really happy this morning. I will check all the vitals in an hour or so.
 
Everything rose slightly over night.

440ppm to 460ppm
1.0 Ec to 1.1Ec
5.8ph to 6.1ph.

Should I just correct ph and keep monitoring or do something else? The plant looks happy as can be. Just a reminder this was a new Res yesterday.
 
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R.d4447c810955cfd2768432b3325c4186

^ While this is true in many cases in my world^

I like these charts @smoke put up as simple explanations as possible.

Basic Beginner Charts

budbuilders.org budbuilders.org
with this one being most important IMO as a beginner in hydro.
1716651923067.png
Again refer to first image as only fact I can swear by.
 
Rising EC together with rising pH indicates the res is still hot. I would dilute it down and see what she does at 400. I have learned to try to keep the plant hungry rather than overfed. A hungry plant is going to be much healthier and will take in more water and things move better within the plant.

I try to get things in the center/right of that chart Steam posted but it's a fine line to walk but I have had this scenario before and it's great when things just stay the same for days. Short of being in the center/right of the chart, I want to be on the left hand side where the plant is hungry. Falling EC indicates your plant is hungry and the pH trend will tell you by how much you are off. I always start out lean and add more if needed.
 
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SweetLeafGrow said:
Rising EC together with rising pH indicates the res is still hot. I would dilute it down and see what she does at 400. I have learned to try to keep the plant hungry rather than overfed. A hungry plant is going to be much healthier and will take in more water and things move better within the plant.

I try to get things in the center/right of that chart Steam posted but it's a fine line to walk but I have had this scenario before and it's great when things just stay the same for days. Short of being in the center/right of the chart, I want to be on the left hand side where the plant is hungry. Falling EC indicates your plant is hungry and the pH trend will tell you by how much you are off. I always start out lean and add more.
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Got it. Thanks SLG
 
Moe.Red said:
Try to avoid the highly marketed additives like bloom ball buster and massive stroke bud maker or whatever the kids are selling these days. Trust in the basics and your plants and wallet will thank you.

Now, git 'er done, post up pics as you go, and we can try to help guide you thru the learning curve of RDWC. I figure one grow is all you need to get hooked.
Click to expand...

😂 😂 😂 😂 😂
 
For those DWC (not RDWC) scroggers, how are you doing res changes? Using a small pump? Draining through the water level tube? Im curious what the best way to accomplish this is.
 
Nesta said:
For those DWC (not RDWC) scroggers, how are you doing res changes? Using a small pump? Draining through the water level tube? Im curious what the best way to accomplish this is.
Click to expand...
I do RDWC but my screen is screwed down to my lid. Any time I want to inspect the roots, I grab the screen and lift it up. I'm also in a square tote so I can lift and turn it so that nearly half is opened up.

This doesn't help you much since you're in round buckets, right? Maybe you could get another bucket, pull the plant (screen and all) and set it on the extra bucket while you do your changes.
 
GrumpAzz said:
I do RDWC but my screen is screwed down to my lid. Any time I want to inspect the roots, I grab the screen and lift it up. I'm also in a square tote so I can lift and turn it so that nearly half is opened up.

This doesn't help you much since you're in round buckets, right? Maybe you could get another bucket, pull the plant (screen and all) and set it on the extra bucket while you do your changes.
Click to expand...
I am actually in square but also have the water level indicator Moe referenced. Thanks guys!
 
Oh word. So I built a custom frame for my scrog. It was simple enough with some half-inch pvc. I did this because, in the beginning stages, I was paranoid about root rot and thought being able to remove the plant, screen and all, would allow me to fix a rot issue without fiddling with a screened up plant.

I forgot how SLG has his all set up. Hopefully he'll pop in and give you a rundown.
 
Now I’m interested at what strength ml/gal you are dosing the GH Trio. I just made a gallon to top off my res. I did 50% of the light feeding schedule. Keep in mind that my water out of the tap is 100ppm. I added powerSi, calimagic, the trio, fulvic and PH down to go from 6.3 to 5.8. The ending EC was 1 and the PPMs were 540. Now trying to stay close to SLGs recommended 400PPMs, I added plain water until I got down to .9ec and 440ppm. I would prefer to not add the plain water at the end if possible. How are you guys dosing the trio? Sorry Moe, I didnt understand your previous post on this.
 
The feeding charts are just a baseline for to keep your ratios in check. Next mix, only add 75-80% of what you did this time. The ratios are more important to follow than their amounts. You'll fine tune it after a few mixes. Are you keeping records as you add the nutes? When I started, I tracked and noted the ppm and ph after each nutrient was added. This gave me a pretty decent log to reference. Then you'll know about how much of what ends up being as far as ppm. Want 10% higher final ppm? Multiply your last doses by 110%. Keeps the ratios in check and allows you to be precise with your end results.

That make sense? Kinda felt like I rambled there a little..
 
GrumpAzz said:
Maybe you could get another bucket, pull the plant (screen and all) and set it on the extra bucket while you do your changes.
Click to expand...
Yes, I do this all the time with the Binky Buckets. My plants are not that big at this stage and no screen to deal with but I believe this would work just fine, not the easiest but works for sure. I've read where those site tubes are not the greatest thing, holding stagnant water and not the best thing.

Have you thought about installing a bulkhead near the bottom of the bucket to use for a drain line? A ball valve to turn on/off and a length of tubing to reach your drain line, may need a pump in your situation.

Nesta said:
Now I’m interested at what strength ml/gal you are dosing the GH Trio. I just made a gallon to top off my res. I did 50% of the light feeding schedule. Keep in mind that my water out of the tap is 100ppm. I added powerSi, calimagic, the trio, fulvic and PH down to go from 6.3 to 5.8. The ending EC was 1 and the PPMs were 540. Now trying to stay close to SLGs recommended 400PPMs, I added plain water until I got down to .9ec and 440ppm. I would prefer to not add the plain water at the end if possible. How are you guys dosing the trio? Sorry Moe, I didnt understand your previous post on this.
Click to expand...
I do not think there is anything wrong with adding plain water to dilute your nutrient solution, I do it all the time but I have to remember to add a bit of cal/mag except for late in flower when I do this.

Using my Binky Buckets for the example I know, I just pick a feeding ratio off the chart, either light or medium......ratios are going to be the same regardless. So when I am building the res in the BB, I make a large cup full of concentrated nutrient water at the ratios on one of those charts, then I add this to the plain water in the bucket until I get to my target ppm.

When I get to my larger systems, I record my starting ppm and ph, then I add what I call "One Round" of nutrients to the res and see where that lands on the ppm. Then, assuming I know my target, say for example 400 ppm. Lets say one round brings my ppm up by 50 ppm, started with 100. That gives me 150 ppm. Then I do the math and figure how many more rounds I need to get to my target. I always come in lean, then add a bit more if needed. Sometimes I deliberately under fill the res, load the nutes and leave that room in the event I need to dilute things down.

Hope this makes sense, not a lot of time atm.
 
Just when everything was going so well…
IMG_0762.jpeg
The leaves have started curling downward. Now this could be caused by a couple of things. Yesterday the air pump fell and both airlines disconnected leaving the roots without oxygen for a couple hours. Additionally, EC rose to 1 and PPMs to 500. Ph remained at 5.8. Airlines are now fixed and I lowered the EC to .9 and PPMs to 420.

Anything else I should be concerned about or doing differently? VPD is constant 1.2.
 
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Are the curled leaves crispy?

Any chance of a higher res pic or close up on the new growth?

Looks to me like plant has switched to maint vs growth. If your res is correct I’d look at the roots. Feel for slime preventing the roots from grabbing water.
 
Moe.Red said:
Are the curled leaves crispy?

Any chance of a higher res pic or close up on the new growth?

Looks to me like plant has switched to maint vs growth. If your res is correct I’d look at the roots. Feel for slime preventing the roots from grabbing water.
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Good news is there is no slime on the roots and the curled leaves are not crispy. They are soft. Now that the light came on, some are starting to stand up a bit. Here are some pics:
IMG_0766.jpeg
IMG_0767.jpegIMG_0769.jpegIMG_0770.jpeg
 
I will add that the ppfd is around 300, so the light shouldn’t be the problem. The Pluto next to it is thriving.
 
Something preventing water moving up. Ph, root issues, bugs, lack of O2 at the roots.

Because the next plant is fine most likely O2. But I would calibrate ph probe and look for slow movers. If you can manage a pic of the roots it might be helpful.
 
Moe.Red said:
Something preventing water moving up. Ph, root issues, bugs, lack of O2 at the roots.

Because the next plant is fine most likely O2. But I would calibrate ph probe and look for slow movers. If you can manage a pic of the roots it might be helpful.
Click to expand...
No signs of bugs. Is it possible that when the airlines got disconnected for a couple hours yesterday that this would be the effect?

Here are some pics:
IMG_0771.jpeg
IMG_0772.jpeg
Here is the plant next to it shes in coco.
IMG_0773.jpeg
IMG_0774.jpeg
 
That’s a whole lot of plant hopefully the roots are getting bigger faster than the top. I see some mottled leaves there I would only be concerned if the roots are not catching up.

I accidentally stunted plants in a recent grow because my o2 system failed. They recovered quickly tho once I gave them bubbles.

Normal dissolved o2 is 8. Can get 9 in hydro if lower elevation or very active bubbling. Mine got to 3. All the plants started throwing different symptoms. Lack of o2 can be a frustrating diagnosis.
 
Moe.Red said:
That’s a whole lot of plant hopefully the roots are getting bigger faster than the top. I see some mottled leaves there I would only be concerned if the roots are not catching up.

I accidentally stunted plants in a recent grow because my o2 system failed. They recovered quickly tho once I gave them bubbles.

Normal dissolved o2 is 8. Can get 9 in hydro if lower elevation or very active bubbling. Mine got to 3. All the plants started throwing different symptoms. Lack of o2 can be a frustrating diagnosis.
Click to expand...
I will get a pic of the roots tomorrow. The roots are definitely growing. I have two airstones in an 8 gal bucket. Generally fill with 5 gals of nutrient solution. Would more airstones help?
 
Did a bro science trial using a 4 inch cylindrical in one 13 gal site number 2 and the other 3 sites had the 2'' stones that came included with the current culture

I see little difference if any in my grows comparing a single 2" stone to a 4".

Both my grows documented here #2 site has the bigger 4" stone
 
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