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Nesta’s DWC Attempt

There are many that can go an entire grow without a change out and without issues.

That is almost completely due to the water volume of the system.

Thats why i prefer to measure my add backs and change once i have added back the volume of water the system holds.

Basically fool proof but requires record keeping.
 
Below is a more advanced method to tops ups.

Generally an EI (estimated Index) type system has been traditionally used in hydro. This was taken from the aquarium hobby but only partially.

So as nutrients are taken up they are not taken up in the exact ratio that we supply them in. This means over time our nutrient ratios change and this the need for a complete res change.

Some do weekly some biweekly etc etc etc.
To keep ratios withing a certain range.

By topping up WITH nutrients you can delay this indefinitely.

But you can also make the most of the nutrients by combining it with water changes.

How i do it is to too up using the method below. Then doing a complete water change once i have added back the actual water volume the system holds.

I can explain more if you like just for understanding purposes but understand there are many ways to do this successfully. I just feel this way keeps nutrient ratios very stable and leads to the reduced amount of water changes then the traditional once a week.

In the early stages you may only need a water change after over a month or longer. N the late stages where they drink a lot you may need it weekly.

The general concept come from as i said Estimated Index for aquariums so you can google that to get a bit more context. Generally for planted tank nutrients but also for water quality maintenance of nitrates to keep safe levels for fish

Thread 'RDWC advanced top up method explained by Aqua Man'
https://budbuilders.org/threads/rdwc-advanced-top-up-method-explained-by-aqua-man.209/
Awesome

Thanks aqua.
 
Let me explain why some would benefit from a complete change and others a partial change like 50%.

Its simple… sterile either work.

Live systems that use beneficial bacteria you want to do 50% or less at a time. The reason is to maintain a thriving population.

Since your beneficial bacteria come in the form of spores etc they take a while to fully recolonize so while adding more for a complete water change is a must it will still leave you with a window if vulnerability.

So if you run live systems i suggest 50% water changes after adding back 50% of the water volume in the system.

There are many small nuances that make up a good live system and once you understand those then you will have a hard time killing a plant.

Thats where simplicity for beginners comes in. A super simple way is do a 50% water change a week and add back some bennies each time.

As i stated a ove my method is a bit more complicated but is far more efficient with nutrients and water usage.

A live system is more beneficial to a person who can use it effectively while a sterile system is far better for someone who can’t or lacks knowledge/experience. Personally i think jumping into the deep end is the best way to learn.
 
Nice man

I'm about out of 34% and still don't have working central AC to also help control temps, so It seems I can't get a STERILE DWC working here for now, bacta just proliferates, and can't buy mycos/bennies.


My tent sets at 78-82 24/7 lights on lights off.....fuck this APT management company...we now have a case and probably sueing them for restitution lol.
 
One week into flower. Still feeding veg nutes, but bumped bloom slightly.

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Looking good bro!!!
I haven't forgot about you either man, this cloning thing has been a hassle and a half.
I've got both strains you want backed up and planted this time!!! So next batch of cuts are ALL yours. I have 2 of each strain so I'll be taking a minimum of 10 snips per and sending them all to you!!!
This has taken far too long now because of me lmao
 
Looking good bro!!!
I haven't forgot about you either man, this cloning thing has been a hassle and a half.
I've got both strains you want backed up and planted this time!!! So next batch of cuts are ALL yours. I have 2 of each strain so I'll be taking a minimum of 10 snips per and sending them all to you!!!
This has taken far too long now because of me lmao
All good brother.
 
Alright crew. Just finished week two post flip. Stretch should just about be finished and I switched to bloom nute ratio. Everything looks really good. I have some unexpected travel for work coming up over the next month and need to solve the auto top off issue quickly. As far as I can tell, I need a control reservoir with a pump that will feed water to my DWC bucket, and then return line back to the control res. Then I would have a top off res above the control reservoir, fed by gravity and a float valve control.

If I have that right, what size should my supply line be from the control res to the DWC bucket, and what should the return line be? What size pump should I run? My DWC bucket is 8gal and holds 5gals of solution.

I appreciate your insight!!!
 
Alright crew. Just finished week two post flip. Stretch should just about be finished and I switched to bloom nute ratio. Everything looks really good. I have some unexpected travel for work coming up over the next month and need to solve the auto top off issue quickly. As far as I can tell, I need a control reservoir with a pump that will feed water to my DWC bucket, and then return line back to the control res. Then I would have a top off res above the control reservoir, fed by gravity and a float valve control.

If I have that right, what size should my supply line be from the control res to the DWC bucket, and what should the return line be? What size pump should I run? My DWC bucket is 8gal and holds 5gals of solution.

I appreciate your insight!!!
You don’t need much for that. Turnover of about 10x per hour is great so only a 50gph pump is needed.

1/4-1/2” is plenty big enough.

Can you explain ir draw how you envision this?
 
Also can you get an idea of ppm change when you top up?

Measure how much water is being taken up.

Measure ppm before topping up.

Then too up with distilled water and measure ppm after.

This will give you the amount of ppm being taken up.

Then you can make your too off res the ideal ppm for top ups keeping your ppm stable instead of just adding water back that will dilute your nutrients
 
Also can you get an idea of ppm change when you top up?

Measure how much water is being taken up.

Measure ppm before topping up.

Then too up with distilled water and measure ppm after.

This will give you the amount of ppm being taken up.

Then you can make your too off res the ideal ppm for top ups keeping your ppm stable instead of just adding water back that will dilute your nutrients
This makes sense. Will do Aqua. Thank you!
 
Yup simple enough. Having the res outside will help with temps also. You want the lowest wattage pump you can get to reduce the heat transfer to water. Trust me on that its very important. Do you have a pump already?
I have a 100gph pump I was going to use. if temps were an issue, I was planning on running it outside of the res.
 
I was planning on running it outside of the res.
This is what I do. I have my pump plumbed in for several things and the pump for the chiller is already taking up real-estate.

My pump can pull from the control res for the waterfalls at the plant sites, pull from the top-off res to to fill the lower resevoirs, or pull from either site to drain. It's pretty handy.
 
Ok. What GPH do you recommend?
I'm way overpowered with mine but I wanted a fast transfer after I mixed nutes. My original pump was a little over 1000 gph and my new one coming is over 2000 gph. I barely had a trickle coming out of my lines with the 1k. I'm hoping the 2k can push out with more pressure for better surface agitation. The pumps I used/ordered are Orlushy brand DC pumps that have a digital speed control.
 
I'm way overpowered with mine but I wanted a fast transfer after I mixed nutes. My original pump was a little over 1000 gph and my new one coming is over 2000 gph. I barely had a trickle coming out of my lines with the 1k. I'm hoping the 2k can push out with more pressure for better surface agitation. The pumps I used/ordered are Orlushy brand DC pumps that have a digital speed control.
Thanks Grump. This is a small single bucket grow, so I shouldn’t need a ton of GPH. After this run, I do plan to upgrade to a four site RDWC.
 
100gph should be fine. If you can run it inline would be best.

If you go inline make the ntake at the bottom of the res. That will result in the weight of the water pushing into the pump. Inlet to pump as big as the pump allows. The output to the site make small like 1/4”-3/8” this reduces the back pressure cause by water weight.

I am assuming the pump is under 10 watts maybe like 6-8w. So you can run it in the water but ideally run it external
 
I'm way overpowered with mine but I wanted a fast transfer after I mixed nutes. My original pump was a little over 1000 gph and my new one coming is over 2000 gph. I barely had a trickle coming out of my lines with the 1k. I'm hoping the 2k can push out with more pressure for better surface agitation. The pumps I used/ordered are Orlushy brand DC pumps that have a digital speed control.
How many sites and how do you have it oriented?

What is you inlet and outlet sizes?
 
How many sites and how do you have it oriented?

What is you inlet and outlet sizes?
So before, with my single bucket system, I ran a 20w 1050gph pump. 3/4 intake and 3/4 discharge lines. The discharge line got capped and had holes drilled to create a sort of sprayer.

New plumbing For the 4 site system was 1/2". 2 outfalls in each site. Maxed out with the old pump barely put out a trickle. It's even less now with my spare pump (old pump shit the bed).

New pump will be a 60w 2377gph and will plumb back into the 3/4 suction side and the 1/2" discharge line. I'm hoping for an uptick in flow with the new pump set to it's minimum setting, only using the 2377gph for transfers and emptying.
 
So before, with my single bucket system, I ran a 20w 1050gph pump. 3/4 intake and 3/4 discharge lines. The discharge line got capped and had holes drilled to create a sort of sprayer.

New plumbing For the 4 site system was 1/2". 2 outfalls in each site. Maxed out with the old pump barely put out a trickle. It's even less now with my spare pump (old pump shit the bed).

New pump will be a 60w 2377gph and will plumb back into the 3/4 suction side and the 1/2" discharge line. I'm hoping for an uptick in flow with the new pump set to it's minimum setting, only using the 2377gph for transfers and emptying.
Was the intake at the bottom of the rez?

1/2 output means it has to push more water against gravity. If you reduce the size you should get a better flow and pressure
 
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