Driver attempts rdwc

[moe.red]

How long should the top drip run?
What's the best temp for res....72f?
I run 5.8 to 6.2 in flood and drain.....same here?

Couple of things



I believe that is your air pump? If so it needs to be higher than the level of the water to prevent syphoning and a flood.

Top drip is not overly critical. Once the roots hit the water you can turn it off altogether. If you over water - it will not hurt the plants because the hydroton is so porous there is no O2 concern. The problem may be an algae buildup. Until you get a canopy that hydroton in full sun and constantly wet will grow stuff you probably do not want. For that reason I would limit to max of 10 minutes per hour. 5 minutes every other hour is still fine.

Res temp of 72 if using beneficial bacteria. If you are sterile 68-70 is the better range for the added dissolved O2.

PH target is 5.8 in hydro. Generally a slight upward trend is a good sign things are going well in the root zone. If you have a dive down to 5 or something like that, it is an indicator you have root rot or similar, so watch the trends closely and post up if you see something that does not make sense.

 

[moe.red]

For those asking this copper coil works good to keep things at the right temp



It’s plumbed to a 1/4 hp chiller with plain water in it. No complaints.

 

[Driver77]

Couple of things

View attachment 95153

I believe that is your air pump? If so it needs to be higher than the level of the water to prevent syphoning and a flood.

Top drip is not overly critical. Once the roots hit the water you can turn it off altogether. If you over water - it will not hurt the plants because the hydroton is so porous there is no O2 concern. The problem may be an algae buildup. Until you get a canopy that hydroton in full sun and constantly wet will grow stuff you probably do not want. For that reason I would limit to max of 10 minutes per hour. 5 minutes every other hour is still fine.

Res temp of 72 if using beneficial bacteria. If you are sterile 68-70 is the better range for the added dissolved O2.

PH target is 5.8 in hydro. Generally a slight upward trend is a good sign things are going well in the root zone. If you have a dive down to 5 or something like that, it is an indicator you have root rot or similar, so watch the trends closely and post up if you see something that does not make sense.

I have those siphon stopper things on it but moved it up anyhow....Thanks for the input!

 

[Driver77]

Couple of things

View attachment 95153

I believe that is your air pump? If so it needs to be higher than the level of the water to prevent syphoning and a flood.

Top drip is not overly critical. Once the roots hit the water you can turn it off altogether. If you over water - it will not hurt the plants because the hydroton is so porous there is no O2 concern. The problem may be an algae buildup. Until you get a canopy that hydroton in full sun and constantly wet will grow stuff you probably do not want. For that reason I would limit to max of 10 minutes per hour. 5 minutes every other hour is still fine.

Res temp of 72 if using beneficial bacteria. If you are sterile 68-70 is the better range for the added dissolved O2.

PH target is 5.8 in hydro. Generally a slight upward trend is a good sign things are going well in the root zone. If you have a dive down to 5 or something like that, it is an indicator you have root rot or similar, so watch the trends closely and post up if you see something that does not make sense.

A few more things I can't figure out.....Once the top drip is turned off how does it recirculate? or does it?

I run 5.8 to 6.2 in the Aircube (only because that's what it said in the instructions that came with it)...should I drop to 5.6 to 6.0 to be in a better zone??

 

[Driver77]

For those asking this copper coil works good to keep things at the right temp

View attachment 95154

It’s plumbed to a 1/4 hp chiller with plain water in it. No complaints.

Is this to avoid a pump in the res?

 

[moe.red]

A few more things I can't figure out.....Once the top drip is turned off how does it recirculate? or does it?

I run 5.8 to 6.2 in the Aircube (only because that's what it said in the instructions that came with it)...should I drop to 5.6 to 6.0 to be in a better zone??

Before I answer, I better figure out the plumbing.



My assumption is the red arrow is the return?
Pink arrow is supply and connected to a pump in the res?
One purple is connected to the drip ring, and one is air?
Which means blue is return to res as well?

Do I have that right?

 

[moe.red]

Is this to avoid a pump in the res?

In this case it is to cool the 5 gallons of water in the fog cloner. If I was to turn the entire res over I would need to more than double the amount of nute water just to fill the chiller and lines.

On my RDWC I just turn over nute water directly from the res thru the chiller. But that is over 80 gallons total, so the amount in the chiller is irrelevant.

 

[Pipecarver]

Not sure if this one is your answer...I'm not impressed with it. It's barley keeping up already. I'm returning this one and getting another like the one I have for my other tent.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807871146932.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.2.3a2f31zN31zN0O&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=19a7f9e9-6cfd-4280-82cf-fa44bd06334d&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.354490.0,pvid:19a7f9e9-6cfd-4280-82cf-fa44bd06334d,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238109%231935&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%222%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%7D&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21596.74%21182.81%21%21%214317.95%211322.77%21%402103241117431165592794768e08fc%2112000043481708681%21rec%21US%212494705757%21XZ&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A

I have one of these I use in the summer but another cheaper one to use part time in a drying box is my thought now. I'm not sure how it would work. Can you get the water below 60F with the chillers you have?

 

[Driver77]

Before I answer, I better figure out the plumbing.

View attachment 95189

My assumption is the red arrow is the return?
Pink arrow is supply and connected to a pump in the res?
One purple is connected to the drip ring, and one is air?
Which means blue is return to res as well?

Do I have that right?

Yes

 

[Driver77]

I have one of these I use in the summer but another cheaper one to use part time in a drying box is my thought now. I'm not sure how it would work. Can you get the water below 60F with the chillers you have?View attachment 95190

I've never tried but it will adjust down to 32f

 

[Pipecarver]

I've never tried but it will adjust down to 32f

32f? wow that would definitely work. I picture a flat coil like a radiator and 4-5 computer fans

 

[Driver77]

32f? wow that would definitely work. I picture a flat coil like a radiator and 4-5 computer fans View attachment 95193

Condensation would have to be addressed?
It's definitely strong enough to do it......you could play with temps to find a sweet spot.

 

[Pipecarver]

Condensation would have to be addressed?
It's definitely strong enough to do it......you could play with temps to find a sweet spot.

Yes condensation. I'm sure there are things I don't understand at play here too. A drip pan for the condensation but what about the humidity created by the condensation and drip pan? Might be trickier than just a way to get the space cool without molding the bud up. I'd need much better humidity control than just a set point humidifier.

 

[moe.red]

Yes

So you can leave it like it is and run it top drip the whole grow, or just disconnect the push to fit connectors and leave the input hose pointed into the root zone.

Once the roots are established I do not prefer to keep they hydroton wet all the time but it is a preference thing. But every leaf or anything that falls on the hydroton is going to also be wet and encourage bad stuff growing. You will never keep that hydroton 100% clean, it will get some organics in it. No sense speeding up the composting by making it wet IMO.

The other school of thought is that if you do keep it wet you might sustain a good bacterial colony there. My preference is to have all that activity in the root zone tho. There is only so much starch that will be put out by the roots (called exudates) to support helper bacteria and fungi. Spreading that over the surface area of the hydroton does not really get you anything in return except less bacteria at the roots. It's a boom - bust thing on bacteria. They grow until they reach the limits of food in their environment and then die off.

Sorry if I am going too deep here. TLDR if you follow my advice once the roots hit the water remove the drip ring from the equation.

 

[moe.red]

Yes condensation. I'm sure there are things I don't understand at play here too. A drip pan for the condensation but what about the humidity created by the condensation and drip pan? Might be trickier than just a way to get the space cool without molding the bud up. I'd need much better humidity control than just a set point humidifier.

Seems to me that properly handled condensation is just drying out the buds. Kinda what you want. You just need to get it channeled out of the dry chamber.

Some people like to look at dew point rather than RH as the important factor in drying bud. That's how cannatrol does it. Condensation is dew point in action.

 

[Driver77]

So you can leave it like it is and run it top drip the whole grow, or just disconnect the push to fit connectors and leave the input hose pointed into the root zone.

Once the roots are established I do not prefer to keep they hydroton wet all the time but it is a preference thing. But every leaf or anything that falls on the hydroton is going to also be wet and encourage bad stuff growing. You will never keep that hydroton 100% clean, it will get some organics in it. No sense speeding up the composting by making it wet IMO.

The other school of thought is that if you do keep it wet you might sustain a good bacterial colony there. My preference is to have all that activity in the root zone tho. There is only so much starch that will be put out by the roots (called exudates) to support helper bacteria and fungi. Spreading that over the surface area of the hydroton does not really get you anything in return except less bacteria at the roots. It's a boom - bust thing on bacteria. They grow until they reach the limits of food in their environment and then die off.

Sorry if I am going too deep here. TLDR if you follow my advice once the roots hit the water remove the drip ring from the equation.

Thanks! I appreciate the detail....it helps me think it through.
After reading instructions properly lol instead of just looking at pictures...it says to be sure and bury the drip lines to root level. I'm sure that would help with the wet hydroton on top all the time. I might heap another layer on after they get a little taller to help.

 

[Driver77]

Must have done something right....their growing at an amazing rate. Top is this morning and bottom was yesterday. I really should have done this a long time ago.....

 

[Driver77]

Thought I should check ec and ph....1.4ec and 5.7ph. Just Jacks, silica, and calmag in there....and Hydroguard
I wanted lower ec but the system doesn't hold as much water as I thought. I was going to drain some but they look happy enough.

rh is in the 40's today! Hopefully spring has sprung..

I have some hydroton outside I need to clean and use to bury the top drip ring. I'm afraid to bring anything in that might have pests though.
What's the best way to disinfect hydroton that's been outside??

 

[moe.red]

Thought I should check ec and ph....1.4ec and 5.7ph. Just Jacks, silica, and calmag in there....and Hydroguard
I wanted lower ec but the system doesn't hold as much water as I thought. I was going to drain some but they look happy enough.

rh is in the 40's today! Hopefully spring has sprung..

I have some hydroton outside I need to clean and use to bury the top drip ring. I'm afraid to bring anything in that might have pests though.
What's the best way to disinfect hydroton that's been outside??

It’s probably not a big deal just wash it really good in tap water. A colander helps.

If you have serious concerns let it soak for a bit in either a light bleach or peroxide solution. Wash it again after before putting in the system.

Agree EC is a bit high for seedlings. As long as nutes are balanced just keep topping off with RO (do you use RO?) as you go. I would want it below 1 at this stage. I typically run 250ppm or .5 EC on seedlings.

If you are concerned the nutes are not balanced based on the recipe you are using I’d look at a refill. Out of balance and high = bad. In balance and high = watch closely and trend down.

Watch for a white salt buildup on the hydroton.

 

[Driver77]

It’s probably not a big deal just wash it really good in tap water. A colander helps.

If you have serious concerns let it soak for a bit in either a light bleach or peroxide solution. Wash it again after before putting in the system.

Agree EC is a bit high for seedlings. As long as nutes are balanced just keep topping off with RO (do you use RO?) as you go. I would want it below 1 at this stage. I typically run 250ppm or .5 EC on seedlings.

If you are concerned the nutes are not balanced based on the recipe you are using I’d look at a refill. Out of balance and high = bad. In balance and high = watch closely and trend down.

Watch for a white salt buildup on the hydroton.

Peroxide sounds like the answer for me. I'm paranoid...I battled aphids and pm last year and don't want a repeat!

Yes using ro and just topping off for now.
Balance must be in the ballpark...all look good and can almost watch them grow so I'll leave it alone for now.
Down to 980ppm from 1010ppm with a little top off. ph 5.9

 

[moe.red]

Peroxide sounds like the answer for me. I'm paranoid...I battled aphids and pm last year and don't want a repeat!

Yes using ro and just topping off for now.
Balance must be in the ballpark...all look good and can almost watch them grow so I'll leave it alone for now.
Down to 980ppm from 1010ppm with a little top off. ph 5.9

Yes peroxide will kill aphids go for it.

 

[doublej]

Must have done something right....their growing at an amazing rate. Top is this morning and bottom was yesterday. I really should have done this a long time ago.....View attachment 95282View attachment 95286

How far away are your lights? Brother

 

[Driver77]

How far away are your lights? Brother

Too far....I have an auto in there just starting flower so I have it on the stool to get enough light and not cook the seedlings.

 

[doublej]

Too far....I have an auto in there just starting flower so I have it on the stool to get enough light and not cook the seedlings.

Got it, just curious

 

[Driver77]

Everybody seems happy! 1040ppm(700) 5.7ph getting a slow rise in ec and ph is static. Added a tbs of calmag and topped off with nutrient water today.
The Bourbon Berry auto is a real pain to work around.......sure looks good though. I'm hoping I can leave it in for another 2 weeks till the Purple Cream get harvested and then throw it in that tent....may not be realistic but no other options.