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Newb here, would this be possible/super inconvenient?

Skinnypuppy80 said:
@moe.red I very well may have to get those buckets lol! Got a cat lady neighbor that'd probably love the contents of the buckets. Should tell her I can get that brand of litter for half off w the stipulation of only getting the litter, no bucket.
Thank you for a cheap alternative if the repairs don't work, u da man!
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Just tell her to start saving the buckets for ya! Then you get out the cheap way 🤣
 
moe.red said:
Yeah the leak threat is real. That would be my #1 concern running on a 2nd floor.

Target, Walmart, etc sells the buckets we need with stupid kitty litter in them

View attachment 81962

Still a whole lot cheaper to dump it out than to order a bucket.

Keep in mind that 60 gals of water is going to be over 500#. It's not spread out like a waterbed, it is high rather than wide in a bucket. You might want to start with 1/2 full just to be safe.

Make sure you put that liner in the bottom of the tent and make sure the edges are up. If you have a leak, it's your last line of defense. A 5' x 5' x 4" tall rectangle will hold just over 60 gallons. But the edges will flop over and hold nothing if you don't install it caringly.

I'd have a wet/dry vac on standby just in case.
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I used to get that brand, or any with the bucket, for just that reason.

Our cat Samantha has been gone since 2021 but I still grab a bucket on occasion. Used to keep one in the car in winter for traction.
 
IMG_1997.jpeg

Just to note not all come with the split lid. We’ve used this one for dog food going on 21 years. It’s great for travel as the bowls fit in upside down.

I have a split lid one in my target shooting bag. Great for odds and ends leaving more horizontal space.

I’ve haven’t tried it but I hear that using kitty litter as a dehumidifier works too.
 
Update: Got everything plumbed and wired. 20241222_114014.jpg


20241222_114023.jpg

Should wipe everything down or run some sort of cleaning mixture through it b4 throwing plants and such in it?

I got 1/4 beans that is somewhat surviving, the other 3 i believe i drowned in the hydro cloning tent. I should've kept it simple w the germination. My brother is supposed to b printing a VG and dropping it off this coming weekend. I plopped 5 more beans down yesterday after soaking for a day than in a towel for 2 days. 3 sprouted but just put em all in the rockwool and praying.

20241222_113702.jpg20241222_113756.jpg

Root rot, yes? Completely my bad. Didn't change the water for like 3 weeks and no h2oh. Have since tried to treat it w h2oh yesterday and support the weak stem. Pretty much assuming it's gonna end up in the bin.

Any suggestions or input would be awesome!
 
moe.red said:
That looks like crown rot to me.

That looks pretty bad. Not sure you can recover from that. Preventing it again should probably be the goal
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Like being more proactive w water changes, checking ph and ppm, regular water change. Temps and humidity as well. I'm pretty much a baby at this, and am drowning. Appreciate any suggestions but I'm gonna get this done one way or another
 
Skinnypuppy80 said:
Like being more proactive w water changes, checking ph and ppm, regular water change. Temps and humidity as well. I'm pretty much a baby at this, and am drowning. Appreciate any suggestions but I'm gonna get this done one way or another
Click to expand...
So infections like this happen when you don't pick a team and execute.

Teams = sterile or live res.

Sterile means using H202 for example to keep all microbes at bay. This is a continual process at least weekly.
Live means introducing a population of good bacteria to out-compete the bad stuff.

I personally use live with a product like Orca or Great White. Other master growers here go sterile. Both ways work, but picking neither is reserved for a guy here by the name of smoke who somehow gets away with doing neither regularly.
 
Any suggestions on how to transport water 40ft? I initially got a drill pump and garden hoses but that's apparently not suitable for potable water. So many mistakes made already and hopefully this will be the last big issue.
 
Skinnypuppy80 said:
Any suggestions on how to transport water 40ft? I initially got a drill pump and garden hoses but that's apparently not suitable for potable water. So many mistakes made already and hopefully this will be the last big issue.
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The Roman's would say aquaducts.

😆
 
Skinnypuppy80 said:
Any suggestions on how to transport water 40ft? I initially got a drill pump and garden hoses but that's apparently not suitable for potable water. So many mistakes made already and hopefully this will be the last big issue.
Click to expand...
If lateral just about any aquarium pump will do.

If you need to go vertical that measurement of height is called head in pumps. So if you are going up 10 feet and get a pump with 5 feet of head no bueno.

Size the pump based on how long you are willing to stand there waiting for it to finish and how much water you are moving
 
moe.red said:
If lateral just about any aquarium pump will do.

If you need to go vertical that measurement of height is called head in pumps. So if you are going up 10 feet and get a pump with 5 feet of head no bueno.

Size the pump based on how long you are willing to stand there waiting for it to finish and how much water you are moving
Click to expand...
I like getting head from my pumps

I'll see my self out.
 
 
Skinnypuppy80 said:
Like being more proactive w water changes, checking ph and ppm, regular water change. Temps and humidity as well. I'm pretty much a baby at this, and am drowning. Appreciate any suggestions but I'm gonna get this done one way or another
Click to expand...
Hydro checklist (others please chime in)

Perfect world this is the goal. Fudge where you need to

Below:
RO water
Cal mag to 100ppm on the 500 scale.
Grow nutes light feed schedule to 300ppm.
Add the micronutrients last
Ph to 5.8
Temp at 70-72
Active bubbling
H2o2 (amount based on water volume and % on the bottle.)

Above:
Temp to 78
Rh at 60%
Leaf temp about 76
Veg spectrum
18 on 6 off.
200ppfd or less if you are having issues.
Very light breeze at this point

You want night time temps to drop a bit. This will happen when the lights go off. Can also cause an rh spike. Too much rh can cause fungal issues so keep an eye on it


This is the slow down and recover plants in early veg formula I would start with.

A lot more to talk about but let’s start there compared to where you are
 
Skinnypuppy80 said:
Any suggestions on how to transport water 40ft? I initially got a drill pump and garden hoses but that's apparently not suitable for potable water. So many mistakes made already and hopefully this will be the last big issue.
Click to expand...
Can you explain where you are trying to pump from and to?
Head pressure like Moe explained will make a difference in suggestions.
Soft hose has no real adjustment. Hard plumbed every 90degree angle change adds 1 foot head/height pressure to the overall.
Are you prepping water in a vessel 40' away from tent but on the same floor/level?

Man, you set yourself up real nice IMO so don't get flustered in the beginning here.:cool:
No one starts out aces. We all grow to where we are.👊
You got the right stuff and are at the right place to get good info.
 
steamroller said:
Can you explain where you are trying to pump from and to?
Head pressure like Moe explained will make a difference in suggestions.
Soft hose has no real adjustment. Hard plumbed every 90degree angle change adds 1 foot head/height pressure to the overall.
Are you prepping water in a vessel 40' away from tent but on the same floor/level?

Man, you set yourself up real nice IMO so don't get flustered in the beginning here.:cool:
No one starts out aces. We all grow to where we are.👊
You got the right stuff and are at the right place to get good info.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the encouraging words :) I am currently trying to get water from the tub(tote inside) about 40ft(same floor) to the res just to fill and do a leak check. Will also have to do the water change the same way. The RO is installed about 30ft from where my RO barrel will b,that barrel will b right next to the res
1734998286782284748531674082472.jpg
 
moe.red said:
Hydro checklist (others please chime in)

Perfect world this is the goal. Fudge where you need to

Below:
RO water
Cal mag to 100ppm on the 500 scale.
Grow nutes light feed schedule to 300ppm.
Add the micronutrients last
Ph to 5.8
Temp at 70-72
Active bubbling
H2o2 (amount based on water volume and % on the bottle.)

Above:
Temp to 78
Rh at 60%
Leaf temp about 76
Veg spectrum
18 on 6 off.
200ppfd or less if you are having issues.
Very light breeze at this point

You want night time temps to drop a bit. This will happen when the lights go off. Can also cause an rh spike. Too much rh can cause fungal issues so keep an eye on it


This is the slow down and recover plants in early veg formula I would start with.

A lot more to talk about but let’s start there compared to where you are
Click to expand...

I appreciate your time in giving me a checklist on things to begin with and all the other times you have replied to this thread, you and all the others have been very helpful.
 
Most RO units will send your water wherever you want. They will pump through the finish hose to a great distance.
Can you get your tub closer to res in the long run just for ease?
That pump MAY work but the distance through hose I would want more power just to not take too long.
Look at the model one or two up from there IMO like the 396 or 633.
The larger of those two is about 2x the price of 290.
I used rubber maid barrels [ 10,24,32,42 gallon barrels] with the wheeled dolly they make.
All rolled and moved without issue.
If you can get your tub close[ enough ] to your res and elevate it you may not need any pump.
DSC_0621 - Copy.JPG
^ Here my 32G Rubbermaid on a water heater stand.^
Once higher than your res you can syphon with just hose and no pump. From any distance.
I drip my plants with this set up.
 
steamroller said:
Most RO units will send your water wherever you want. They will pump through the finish hose to a great distance.
Can you get your tub closer to res in the long run just for ease?
That pump MAY work but the distance through hose I would want more power just to not take too long.
Look at the model one or two up from there IMO like the 396 or 633.
The larger of those two is about 2x the price of 290.
I used rubber maid barrels [ 10,24,32,42 gallon barrels] with the wheeled dolly they make.
All rolled and moved without issue.
If you can get your tub close[ enough ] to your res and elevate it you may not need any pump.
View attachment 84503
^ Here my 32G Rubbermaid on a water heater stand.^
Once higher than your res you can syphon with just hose and no pump. From any distance.
I drip my plants with this set up.
Click to expand...

So instead of the line from the RO system(ispring) going to the supplied faucet, just get a longer line that will feed directly in the 55gl drum with perhaps a float valve in the drum? If so, any suggestions on the float valve?

The drum/stand i ordered. The spigot on the drum w the stand will b about 9 inches lower than the res. Will look into the water heater stand.
Screenshot_20241223_184349_Chrome.jpg
 
Here's you're float valve~!
www.bulkreefsupply.com

Reverse Osmosis Adjustable Float Valve

Why does BRS recommend this? Float valves are simple to install and can save a lot of water from ending up on the floor. They can be installed in containers as small 1 gallon pails, sumps, and 200 plus gallon commercial storage containers to shut off the flow of water. Even if you do not have a...
www.bulkreefsupply.com www.bulkreefsupply.com
Just drill a hole and this one is adjustable.

If only the spigot is lower but overall barrel height is higher than you will still be able to syphon until the water is equal height in both. It's a weight / pressure thing.
So, a ballpark is you get 30-40 gallons out of the barrel without pump.
Couple blocks of wood will easily rais that base also just like I used.
 
I would dispense with the rain barrel and just find a good used food grade 55 gal drum. This way you can place the pump where ever you want and not be beholden to the bottom spigot. They'll also be cheaper.

When I ran an ebb and flow system I used a 55 gal drum as a reservoir and had the pump sitting at the bottom of the drum. Since you don't really need a lot of head lift as you aren't lifting that high, a pond pump should suffice but the RV pump I posted will be much faster in terms of moving the water. I also think it'll be more versatile as it has more lift and pressure power than the pond pump.
 
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