Shaded

Organic Soil Wizard
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Hello and welcome to my very simple guide for growing some bomb ass weed with Gaia Green organic nutrients! Would you like to feed your plant once every 2 weeks and spend the rest of your time just watering? Then spark a joint and read on. This guide works for indoor, outdoors and on any other garden variety plants or fruiting plants that you might have.

So what makes this Shaded’s Method? Because when I first became interested in using Gaia Green ~2 years ago there was no information online in regards to cannabis specific guides, and following the label on the package led me to issues of all sorts. A few major deficiencies popped up for me and that’s how I refined my guide and added each of the trifecta supplements that I use in the recipe today. Gaia Green products are 100% organic dry amendments for cannabis use. They are a Canadian based company but they also sell their product in the USA as well. They have a wide variety of products to offer and you may find a specific use for some of them in your gardens, but for the sake of simplicity I am just going to focus on the required essentials that I use in this guide.

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~~THIS GUIDE WILL ALSO WORK WITH ANY OTHER ORGANIC, DRY NUTRIENT LINES THAT HAVE THE SAME NPK RATIOS OF 4-4-4 AND 2-8-4~~

MACRONUTRIENT FEED GUIDE (Gaia Green 4-4-4 or 2-8-4)



Seedling phase week 1-2:

Congratulations, you've germinated a seed and plopped it into a nursery container or solo cup. NO nutrients are being added to the growing medium. Earth worm castings & cotyledons provide more than enough nutrition for the first 2 weeks of a seeds life. You may even find that you don’t need to add EWC during this phase. The Trifecta is optional during this phase but not necessary.

-at this point I would transplant into a 1 gallon container-

Early veg phase weeks 2-6:

Amend or top dress 3 tablespoons of All Purpose 4-4-4 per gallon of growing medium (eg. 3 tablespoons of 4-4-4 for a 1 gallon container)
Amend or top dress 1 cup of EWC

-at this point I would transplant into a 5 or 7 gallon container-

Late veg phase if required weeks 6-10:

Amend or top dress 3 tablespoons of All Purpose 4-4-4 per gallon of growing medium (eg. 15 tablespoons of 4-4-4 for a 5 gallon container)
Amend or top dress 1 cup of EWC

Early flower phase, 1 week before flipping to 12/12:

Amend or top dress 3 tablespoons using a 50/50 ratio of All Purpose 4-4-4 and Power Bloom 2-8-4 per gallon of growing medium (eg. 7.5 tablespoons of 4-4-4 and 7.5 tablespoons of 2-8-4 for a 5 gallon container)
Amend or top dress 1 cup of EWC

Mid flower phase, week 3 of flower:

Amend or top dress 3 tablespoons of All Purpose 2-8-4 per gallon of growing medium (eg. 15 tablespoons of 2-8-4 for a 5 gallon container)
Amend or top dress 1 cup of EWC

Late flower phase, week 7 of flower:

This is where you need to determine if you are growing an indica or a sativa. Your indica plants should be very close to being ready at this point, whereas your sativa plants may look like they need another 4 weeks or longer. I would recommend following the below guide based on the type of plant you are growing.

Indica: apply a half strength “Mid flower phase” top dress (eg. 7.5 tablespoons of 2-8-4 for a 5 gallon container)
Sativa: apply a full strength “Mid flower phase” top dress (eg. 15 tablespoons of 2-8-4 for a 5 gallon container)

-harvest-

This is the basic feed schedule and this is a FULL STRENGTH feeding regiment meaning you are pushing your plant pretty hard. Certain strains and different growing environments may mean that you might only need to use 2/3 of what I have here for amounts. I recommend starting off with 2/3 of what is listed and increasing to full amounts if you're certain that your plants can handle it.

MICRONUTRIENT FEED GUIDE (Epsom, Gypsum, Azomite aka the Triforce)



I start adding the triforce of micronutrients after my first transplant, unless I am seeing strange deficiencies pop up on my young seedlings which is very rare but not impossible and then I’ll start sooner. So pretty much from week 2 until the end of harvest I am adding the triforce every 2 weeks. The amount that I use varies from pot size to pot size but generally I use the following guidelines:

1 tablespoon of each every 2 weeks for a 1 gallon container
2 tablespoons of each every 2 weeks for a 5 gallon container
3 tablespoons of each every 2 weeks for a 7 gallon container

Pretty much once you get started you are either top dressing macronutrients in 4 week blocks or adding micronutrients every 2 weeks, and then you just water your plants. Good luck and happy growing!


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Mycorrhizae
I generously dust the root ball EVERY time I transplant and I also add a couple scoops into my soil mix any time I amend some soil to be going into a new container. Do not underestimate your rhizosphere and the role it plays in nutrient uptake. Look for high prop/g or propagules per gram.

Epsom Salts - Magnesium Sulfate
MUST BE PLAIN UNSCENTED. LEDs drastically increase the demand for Mg and this helps cover that demand. Overall plant health and nutrient uptake seems to improve when added to the mix.

Gypsum - Calcium Sulfate
Decreases soil salinity and improves soil structure while also providing Calcium and Sulfate. Make sure you use micronized or powdered, not granular forms.

Azomite or Rock Dust Blend - Micronutrients and Humic Acid
Used primarily to supplement micronutrients that may be lacking. Overall plant health and lushness improved once added to the mix.
Make sure you use micronized or powdered, not granular forms.

Earth Worm Castings
Worm poop aka black gold. These guys are the work force of your soil, they break down the nutrients and allow the plant to easily uptake them. Think of them like mailmen delivering mail to your house. Without them you wouldn't get mail. Catch my drift?



GENERAL TIPS AND TRICKS:

-ALWAYS wear a particulate mask when applying or mixing any of these products you do not want to inhale this stuff
-gloves or some sort of hand protection is recommended
-I like to use a smaller container to pre-mix my dry amendments with some of the base soil when it’s time to top dress, this makes much less mess when adding to containers
-I like to leave 3-4” of space to the top of my pot when transplanting into the final containers because you will be top dressing and adding more soil mass each time
-this guide is a just a guide, you will need to monitor your plants and correct any deficiencies that pop up
-earth worm castings are not optional you NEED microbial life for nutrient availability otherwise you will run into issues and it doesn’t matter how much you’ve fed your plant
-there are 16 tablespoons in 1 cup
-remember to have fun

 
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WHAT IS MY BASE SOIL MIX?

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I am going to give you a quick rundown of what my base soil mix consists of and why it is my preferred mix to use for ANY of my plants.

1/2 of the mix will consist of Pro-Mix BX or Pro-Mix HP if I cannot find BX. I like the vermiculite that comes with the BX and 2 types of lime.

1/4 of the mix will consist of Earth Worm Castings or Compost if you can't get EWC. Use compost at your own risk due to variables in nutrient composition aka how hot it might be.

1/4 of the mix is filled out with additional perlite. I prefer high porosity, high draining mediums and I find that peat retains moisture well enough that it can handle the increase in porosity.

WHY PRO-MIX?



Because they have done all the work to ensure that the soil contains all the things you would need in a self buffering medium to use from seed to harvest. And also because the medium is completely inert. You have total and utter control over what nutrients get added to the soil.


This is a great resource for anyone looking for more information or detailed information in regards to Pro-Mix, pH, self buffering, water retention, drainage etc.
 
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NUTRIENT DEMANDS BY WEEK


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Now the only other thing we need to keep in mind with the above general feed guidelines are the nutrient demands by week of florasion. You can see that around week 3 of flower the demand for Calcium and Magnesium will spike drastically and is at the highest point of the plants lifecycle. Usually when I am doing my Mid Flower Phase top dress around week 3 of flower I will also double up on the amount of Epsom and Gypsum that I add during the Micronutrient block for that phase.
 
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THE IMPORTANCE OF MYCO & EARTH WORM CASTINGS


Consider this your introduction to organic gardening and the major difference between the breakdown and uptake of synthetic fertilizers vs. organic dry amendments. With organic dry amendments it is the microbial life in the soil that is NEEDED to break down the nutrients into ionic form that the plants can uptake. This process takes time it is not instantaneous. This is why Earth Worm Castings and Mycorrhizae are KEY SUPPLEMENTS to get vigorous healthy growth with organic dry amends! Synthetic fertilizers are already broken down into their base ionic forms ready for the roots to uptake. This means any grower can quickly rectify any deficiencies when using synthetics, but with organics any changes will take time as the nutrients must first be broken down by your soil army of microbes.

The worm castings kick start the microbial life and build the "engine" of your soil. The macro and micro nutrients we add to the soil is fuel for this engine of microbial life. The Mycorrhizae serves to expand your rhizosphere within the soil root zone itself by creating a "web like structure" that helps increase nutrient uptake to the plant. What this does is create an extremely symbiotic soil system to break down and utilize the nutrients in the fastest and most efficient way possible. You feed your soil dry nutrients, the microbial life then feeds on and breaks down the dry nutrients, and the rhizosphere/root system uptakes those base ions to be used by the plant.

WITHOUT EARTH WORM CASTINGS, OR SOME OTHER TYPE OF COMPOST TO INTRODUCE MICROBES YOU WILL RUN INTO NUTRIENT AVAILABILITY ISSUES

Here is a sample diagram of a regular root zone:

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Here is a sample diagram of a root zone enhanced with mycorrhizae:

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Forgive my terrible MSPaint skills but you get the idea. It creates a secondary root-like structure that provides access to things like water, nutrients, and oxygen that your root system normally wouldn't have access to.
 
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WHY AZOMITE?



AZOMITE literally stands for A to Z Of Minerals Including Trace Elements. AZOMITE contains 75 of the 86 naturally occurring elements.

AZOMITE is mined from an ancient volcanic ash deposit in central Utah, USA. Scientists believe that the unique chemical make-up of AZOMITE was created when an ancient volcano erupted and the ash settled into a seabed.

The combination of seawater, fed by hundreds of rivers rich in minerals, and the rare and abundant minerals present in volcanic ash created the AZOMITE mineral composition unique to its deposit. Today, this geologic characteristic is an outcropping known as a “hogback”. The minerals are gathered and packaged by AZOMITE Mineral Products, Inc. for distribution all over the world.

Substitutions: any kind of rock dust
 
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Mods? Can we start up a section or sub section of growing methods? CG's and Shaded's as an example to newbs, and even us experienced fucks, as one of many proven ways to a successful harvest. It could serve as a basis for new methods or even taking parts of a method that work with whatever personal method you may have. Maybe a basic primer on hydro and other methods?
 
Mods? Can we start up a section or sub section of growing methods? CG's and Shaded's as an example to newbs, and even us experienced fucks, as one of many proven ways to a successful harvest. It could serve as a basis for new methods or even taking parts of a method that work with whatever personal method you may have. Maybe a basic primer on hydro and other methods?

+1

that's a great idea Roots. I know I would like to follow along a guide from a few members here if/when I ever decide to get my feet wet with hydro! Or even just trying out other organic methods. I know @BigBagOfBuds has a recipe that's really interesting to me too along with @CannaGranny
 
Great job Slim Shadey!
This month the Gaia Green method is being talked about in Missouri‘s Cannabis magazine. I thought of you immediately. I also see that you have added tags to your post, thank you!
 
Great job Slim Shadey!
This month the Gaia Green method is being talked about in Missouri‘s Cannabis magazine. I thought of you immediately. I also see that you have added tags to your post, thank you!

that's really awesome CG! I'd be curious to see what other nutrients or supplements they discuss in regards to the recipe if it's cannabis specific. Pretty rare to find cannabis related material in regards to Gaia so if you don't mind could you perhaps grab a couple screenshots or pics when the magazine comes out? 🧙‍♂️
 
that's really awesome CG! I'd be curious to see what other nutrients or supplements they discuss in regards to the recipe if it's cannabis specific. Pretty rare to find cannabis related material in regards to Gaia so if you don't mind could you perhaps grab a couple screenshots or pics when the magazine comes out? 🧙‍♂️
It has a full page in advertising, so someone with some dollars is supporting it. If I have not pitched the mag, I sure will!
 
Nice to see this thread over here.
Before I took the ban hammer I saw someone post in your thread at the farm with this sheet they made asking if the great Gandalf thought it looked correct.
I have a feeling he will be waiting for a long time for a reply.
Screenshot_20230627_202116_Gallery.jpg
 
Nice to see this thread over here.
Before I took the ban hammer I saw someone post in your thread at the farm with this sheet they made asking if the great Gandalf thought it looked correct.
I have a feeling he will be waiting for a long time for a reply.
View attachment 10426

Damn! I like his little chart/graphic. Gonna have to steal that and modify with my new recipe :p
 
Nice to see this thread over here.
Before I took the ban hammer I saw someone post in your thread at the farm with this sheet they made asking if the great Gandalf thought it looked correct.
I have a feeling he will be waiting for a long time for a reply.
View attachment 10426
What is the difference in application when it says amend vs top dress? Does "amend" mean I actually have to amend it into the soil with live roots inhabiting the space? I doubt that and suspect that means to lightly rough it into the top soil and water in. Top dress, AFAIK, means you just spread it over the top of the soil and water in. I guess I don't really see the big benefit in lightly amending into the top soil vs top dressing as both will use the watering in as a way to drench the soil with nutrient.

Anyone care to explain the difference in technique and the outcome differences of each?
 
What is the difference in application when it says amend vs top dress? Does "amend" mean I actually have to amend it into the soil with live roots inhabiting the space? I doubt that and suspect that means to lightly rough it into the top soil and water in. Top dress, AFAIK, means you just spread it over the top of the soil and water in. I guess I don't really see the big benefit in lightly amending into the top soil vs top dressing as both will use the watering in as a way to drench the soil with nutrient.

Anyone care to explain the difference in technique and the outcome differences of each?

I think it's just the verbage being used but the way I word it:

Amend = when you are mixing it into a large batch of soil
Top dress = when you are adding it into an established pot with a plant growing
 
What is the difference in application when it says amend vs top dress? Does "amend" mean I actually have to amend it into the soil with live roots inhabiting the space? I doubt that and suspect that means to lightly rough it into the top soil and water in. Top dress, AFAIK, means you just spread it over the top of the soil and water in. I guess I don't really see the big benefit in lightly amending into the top soil vs top dressing as both will use the watering in as a way to drench the soil with nutrient.

Anyone care to explain the difference in technique and the outcome differences of each?
Amending is when you mix you amendments with your soil.he up pots and mixes the amendments with the soil before repotting.
Top dressing is like you said. Some like to message it in a litte others just dump and spread.
Hope that helps
 
Anyone care to explain the difference in technique and the outcome differences of each?
I don't know much about the outcome, but I believe I understand the difference in technique.

My thinking is that the difference is a matter of method, that is, how it gets done. The noun amendment is something added to soil to make the soil better. The verb to amend is to add it. So, when I mix nutrients or supplements with soil and mix them together in a container, I'm amending the soil in the container. When I pour the amended soil onto the soil in a pot, I'm top dressing the soil that was already in the pot.

Something I'm curious about is how much soil folks use when they top dress their mixture of soil and amendments. I've read about leaving 4 to 5 inches of soil at the top to allow space for top dressing. So far, I haven't needed anywhere near that much space. I use 1-quart Mason jars I bought from the local thrift store to make my mix. I leave space in the jar and then shake it till it looks good. After I spread that over the top of the soil and water it in, I can barely see a difference in the height of the soil. Am I doing it wrong?
 
Amending is when you mix you amendments with your soil.he up pots and mixes the amendments with the soil before repotting.
Top dressing is like you said. Some like to message it in a litte others just dump and spread.
Hope that helps
AHA! I missed the pot size differences in the chart. Now it makes sense. Thanks all!!!

@Shaded - Will you be making a chart like this? It would be very helpful for people like me that may want to try out your method. The chart posted is great but would like to see your numbers in there.
 
AHA! I missed the pot size differences in the chart. Now it makes sense. Thanks all!!!

@Shaded - Will you be making a chart like this? It would be very helpful for people like me that may want to try out your method. The chart posted is great but would like to see your numbers in there.

Yup I'll figure something out! Or perhaps @Amnesia needs a side project? The visual chart is definitely easier to follow
 
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