Red Spectrum Vs. Blue Spectrum

Observer

Quantum Yield Engineer
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throwing this up to congregate data on spectrum and provide some hard data and information for everyones


heres a thread where ill include alot of spectrum information.

place holder.



throwing this up when time is limited.

I Will Be Back.
 
  • Red light: Red light is absorbed by phytochromes, which are proteins that regulate plant growth and development. Red light promotes the production of chlorophyll and other photosynthetic pigments, which helps plants to photosynthesize more efficiently. Red light also stimulates the elongation of stems and the development of leaves.
  • Blue light: Blue light is absorbed by cryptochromes, which are proteins that regulate plant responses to light quality and quantity. Blue light promotes the production of gibberellins, which are plant hormones that promote stem elongation and leaf expansion. Blue light also inhibits the production of auxins, which are plant hormones that promote apical dominance (the growth of the main stem at the expense of side branches).
In general, red light promotes plant growth and development, while blue light promotes apical dominance and leaf expansion. The relative amounts of red and blue light that a plant receives can affect its growth and development in a number of ways. For example, plants that receive more red light than blue light will tend to be more compact and bushy, while plants that receive more blue light than red light will tend to be taller and have larger leaves.

Here is a table that summarizes the effects of red and blue light on photomorphogenesis:

LightEffect on Photomorphogenesis
Red lightPromotes the production of chlorophyll, other photosynthetic pigments, and gibberellins. Stimulates stem elongation and leaf expansion.
Blue lightInhibits the production of auxins. Promotes apical dominance and leaf expansion.


It is
important to note that the effects of red and blue light on photomorphogenesis can vary depending on the plant species, the developmental stage of the plant, and the environmental conditions.


-Google BARD
 
Here is a table that summarizes the effects of all five major plant hormones:


HormoneEffect on Plant Growth and Development
AuxinPromotes apical dominance, inhibits lateral bud growth, root development, leaf abscission, and fruit ripening.
GibberellinsPromote stem elongation, leaf expansion, seed germination, flowering, and responses to environmental stress.
CytokininsPromote cell division, delay senescence, and stimulate lateral bud growth.
Abscisic acidPromotes seed dormancy, leaf abscission, and stomatal closure.
EthylenePromotes fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence.


It is important to note that the effects of plant hormones can vary depending on the plant species, the developmental stage of the plant, and the environmental conditions. For example, some plant species are more sensitive to certain hormones than others. Additionally, the effects of plant hormones can change as the plant grows and develops. For example, a young plant may be more sensitive to certain hormones than an older plant.

-Google BARD
 

here is a table that summarizes the effects of the spectrum on plant hormones:

HormoneRed LightBlue Light
AuxinPromotes stem elongation and apical dominance.Inhibits stem elongation and apical dominance.
GibberellinsPromotes stem elongation and seed germination.Inhibits stem elongation and seed germination.
CytokininsPromotes cell division and lateral bud growth.Inhibits cell division and lateral bud growth.
Abscisic acidPromotes seed dormancy and stomatal closure.Inhibits seed dormancy and stomatal closure.
EthylenePromotes fruit ripening and leaf abscission.Inhibits fruit ripening and leaf abscission.


-Google BARD
 
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Thanks! Read through all of it and watched the video. Going to look into a sensor for far red. Nice capability (spectrum control) but the potential to cock things up is definitely there, so I really appreciate this.

My light manufacturer provided a good amount of guidance on what RWB ratios they recommend for different growth stages, plus Bandit had some presets he uses that I could triangulate from as well. This got me started and is making a wonderfully dank plant right now, but I still want to understand what is actually going on, happy to see this thread.
 
Thanks! Read through all of it and watched the video. Going to look into a sensor for far red. Nice capability (spectrum control) but the potential to cock things up is definitely there, so I really appreciate this.

My light manufacturer provided a good amount of guidance on what RWB ratios they recommend for different growth stages, plus Bandit had some presets he uses that I could triangulate from as well. This got me started and is making a wonderfully dank plant right now, but I still want to understand what is actually going on, happy to see this thread.
No problem man

Glad to help and pass around easy to access factual knowledge

I'll keep updating it as well.
 
Thanks! Read through all of it and watched the video. Going to look into a sensor for far red. Nice capability (spectrum control) but the potential to cock things up is definitely there, so I really appreciate this.

My light manufacturer provided a good amount of guidance on what RWB ratios they recommend for different growth stages, plus Bandit had some presets he uses that I could triangulate from as well. This got me started and is making a wonderfully dank plant right now, but I still want to understand what is actually going on, happy to see this thread.
I bought a Far red led puck to put over my plant in my 3x3. I used it for 20 min after lights out and extended my on hours to 12 1/2.....My plant finished in 9 weeks as opposed to 11 the last time I ran her.....It was well done in 9 weeks with more amber than I normally get after 11 weeks. It is designed for coverage in a 3x3 space. I now need another to so I can have 2 in my 5x5.....I think it worked as expected and I'm going to try them on another run this fall.1692968943270.png
 
I bought a Far red led puck to put over my plant in my 3x3. I used it for 20 min after lights out and extended my on hours to 12 1/2.....My plant finished in 9 weeks as opposed to 11 the last time I ran her.....It was well done in 9 weeks with more amber than I normally get after 11 weeks. It is designed for coverage in a 3x3 space. I now need another to so I can have 2 in my 5x5.....I think it worked as expected and I'm going to try them on another run this fall.View attachment 18757
Sweet

What was that site?
 

They have a few colors to play with....the mounting bracket is useless without their lights....for the price I figured better to have and not need than to need and not have.....now I know I din't need
Can you show a pic of how you have it hooked up?

Hows it powered?

If possible next time you're in the grow area?

Thank pipe
 
Can you show a pic of how you have it hooked up?

Hows it powered?

If possible next time you're in the grow area?

Thank pipe
I used a piece of tin 8" x3" and screwed the puck to the tin/ sheet metal I then wrapped that around the driver with the puck facing down and screwed the 2 end pieces together so it like a loose collar around the driver a 12 volt adapter plugs into the light.
led puck.png
 
Thanks! Read through all of it and watched the video. Going to look into a sensor for far red. Nice capability (spectrum control) but the potential to cock things up is definitely there, so I really appreciate this.

My light manufacturer provided a good amount of guidance on what RWB ratios they recommend for different growth stages, plus Bandit had some presets he uses that I could triangulate from as well. This got me started and is making a wonderfully dank plant right now, but I still want to understand what is actually going on, happy to see this thread.
Sweet go for it, nothing to lose but experience to gain.

Im thinking about getting some of those picks or making a panel(s)

One red one blue
 
Sweet go for it, nothing to lose but experience to gain.

Im thinking about getting some of those picks or making a panel(s)

One red one blue
Why blue? with blue keeping them short and red stretching them out. Thinking that out it may help keep Sativa's shorter but I don't think it would be good to use blue on Indica's,,,,being already short and fat.

I'd read that the Far red helps put them to sleep faster so by giving them 20 min red at lights out allowed me to extend their on hours by 30 min to 12 1/2 on........and I believe after this first try it reduced my flower time by 2 weeks. I'm ordering another one so I'll have 2 pucks in my 5x5 ........If nothing else its a real pretty redish pink glow with just the red on
 
Why blue? with blue keeping them short and red stretching them out. Thinking that out it may help keep Sativa's shorter but I don't think it would be good to use blue on Indica's,,,,being already short and fat.

I'd read that the Far red helps put them to sleep faster so by giving them 20 min red at lights out allowed me to extend their on hours by 30 min to 12 1/2 on........and I believe after this first try it reduced my flower time by 2 weeks. I'm ordering another one so I'll have 2 pucks in my 5x5 ........If nothing else its a real pretty redish pink glow with just the red on
Correct, can make/keep em Even shorter and fatter as possible.


Blue will be important for compact dense grows, like 420 solos in 25square feet, could turn on far red around/end of flower.

Complete weed'geineering
 
Why blue? with blue keeping them short and red stretching them out. Thinking that out it may help keep Sativa's shorter but I don't think it would be good to use blue on Indica's,,,,being already short and fat.

I'd read that the Far red helps put them to sleep faster so by giving them 20 min red at lights out allowed me to extend their on hours by 30 min to 12 1/2 on........and I believe after this first try it reduced my flower time by 2 weeks. I'm ordering another one so I'll have 2 pucks in my 5x5 ........If nothing else its a real pretty redish pink glow with just the red on
im looking into magnetotropism too, may start its own thread soon

magnetic fields and there affects/effects on plants.
 
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im looking into magnetotropism too, may start its own thread soon

magnetic fields and there affects/effects on plants.
I've seen a little on that and how the iron in the soil is effected by the magnetosphere. Another bit on high voltage current under the plants having some effect as well, I'm not sure that's for the common man as you'd need some electrical skills to get started......I'll wait until you work it out......maybe all we need is to plug the plant in some how and get its feed through the electrical grid
 
I've seen a little on that and how the iron in the soil is effected by the magnetosphere. Another bit on high voltage current under the plants having some effect as well, I'm not sure that's for the common man as you'd need some electrical skills to get started......I'll wait until you work it out......maybe all we need is to plug the plant in some how and get its feed through the electrical grid
Well you can literally just introduce a magnetic field via placing a magnet in water, running water through MFs or EMF

It's fairly simple to make you're own EMF too, battery wired nail.
 
Well you can literally just introduce a magnetic field via placing a magnet in water, running water through MFs or EMF

It's fairly simple to make you're own EMF too, battery wired nail.
Magnetic water treatment directs water to pass through a strong magnetic field between two powerful neodymium magnets

So i made need to reset this up but yeah could take two neodymium magnets and put water container between them


Im going to buy some
 
Magnetized water is h3o2.

One more oxygen molecule and it should aid in uptake.
 
Magnetized water is h3o2.

One more oxygen molecule and it should aid in uptake.
I bet it makes it easier for the plant to uptake water therefore nutrients as well
 

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I bet it makes it easier for the plant to uptake water therefore nutrients as well

""The term "H3O2" is often used in marketing materials for water products that claim to be more beneficial for plants than regular water. However, there is no scientific evidence to support these claims. In fact, the compound H3O2 does not exist. The molecular formula for water is H2O, which means that each water molecule contains two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom. There is no way to add an extra hydrogen atom to water without changing its chemical properties.
Some people believe that water molecules can form hexagonal structures, which are said to be more beneficial for plants than regular water. However, there is no scientific evidence to support this claim either. In fact, water molecules are constantly moving and their structure is constantly changing. There is no way to force water molecules to form a specific structure.""

According to Google BARD - im investigating.

https://www.aimspress.com/article/id/63846c6eba35de77c348cbfc#:~:text=Under Cd stress, magnetization can,of the mineral nutrient components.

these "scientific papers" say otherwise, no mention of h3o2 though.


need to move this to its own thread
 
I bought a Far red led puck to put over my plant in my 3x3. I used it for 20 min after lights out and extended my on hours to 12 1/2.....My plant finished in 9 weeks as opposed to 11 the last time I ran her.....It was well done in 9 weeks with more amber than I normally get after 11 weeks. It is designed for coverage in a 3x3 space. I now need another to so I can have 2 in my 5x5.....I think it worked as expected and I'm going to try them on another run this fall.View attachment 18757

I got one of these today to give it a try, so there is no way to actually know if it's on huh?
 
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