Tell me about your indoor tent setup

[Habosabin]

Yes the large fans move more air, Heat is a byproduct of the air movement. I just use temperature controls to deal with the added heat

I'd imagine the motor contributes as well like in the res.

 

[Observer]

Why the need for zero? My water here is 600ppm depending on time of year so my ro gets it to 9 and it still works as RO. And my filter is over a year old. It was 0 when it was new according to my inkbird ppm. I've left it on overnight a few times as well.

My impression is the carbon filters are for taste so the plant really doesn't need that aspect of the RO so I just use mine until it won't work but it's still going. I think mine is 3 to 1.

Unless you're water source is FUCKED, like whatever chemicals the municipality is adding, or if it's really hard water.

0ppm water may be more trouble than it's worth.

I'd only use 0ppm water if I'm treating it, buffering it, and have a specific nutrient profile for hydroponics/drip, using it for clones and seeds.

But for soil, don't see the harm in tap.

To each their own

 

[Habosabin]

Unless you're water source is FUCKED, like whatever chemicals the municipality is adding, or if it's really hard water.

0ppm water may be more trouble than it's worth.

I'd only use 0ppm water if I'm treating it, buffering it, and have a specific nutrient profile for hydroponics/drip, using it for clones and seeds.

But for soil, don't see the harm in tap.

To each their own

I buffer my RO with a ph buffer. Otherwise it won't hold ph very well.

My ppms are to high if I start with 600 water. It's why I had to get a ro filter.

 

[Observer]

I buffer my RO with a ph buffer. Otherwise it won't hold ph very well.

My ppms are to high if I start with 600 water. It's why I had to get a ro filter.

yup.

gotta add the akaline and acidic bases

my tap is 120 or so ppm, id like it better if it was 30 or so, easier to dial in nutrients.

 

[Habosabin]

yup.

gotta add the akaline and acidic bases

my tap is 120 or so ppm, id like it better if it was 30 or so, easier to dial in nutrients.

I think after I buffer it, it's around 125 to 130.

 

[Pipecarver]

Why the need for zero? My water here is 600ppm depending on time of year so my ro gets it to 9 and it still works as RO. And my filter is over a year old. It was 0 when it was new according to my inkbird ppm. I've left it on overnight a few times as well.

My impression is the carbon filters are for taste so the plant really doesn't need that aspect of the RO so I just use mine until it won't work but it's still going. I think mine is 3 to 1.

I only use RO water for my humidifiers. I've bought purified water at 8ppm and after a while my dehues turned green inside and vinegar & or CLR wouldn't clean the green off so I found a store that sells zero PPM water. After talking about buying water it was suggested I go for my own RO system. After looking around on Amzon I chose one and when I received it I read the manual. In order to get to Zero from 8ppm it required a chemical drip cartridge a pre filter & 3 replaceable filters with 3 to 1 waste water...............Fk that I can buy 16 gal zero ppm water for $6.50

 

[Bandit420]

I only use RO water for my humidifiers. I've bought purified water at 8ppm and after a while my dehues turned green inside and vinegar & or CLR wouldn't clean the green off so I found a store that sells zero PPM water. After talking about buying water it was suggested I go for my own RO system. After looking around on Amzon I chose one and when I received it I read the manual. In order to get to Zero from 8ppm it required a chemical drip cartridge a pre filter & 3 replaceable filters with 3 to 1 waste water...............Fk that I can buy 16 gal zero ppm water for $6.50

Your RO system sounds very unusual and would be one to maybe post and link as a buyer beware warning to others not to buy.

Mine have always been basic 3 stage with sediment, KDF carbon, and the RO membrane.
Optional accessories are things like a deionization filter and maybe a prefilter mesh screen that almost looks like a fuel filter between the spigot and filter system since my home is old with old pipes.
The other accessory I added was the flow restrictor to make it a 1:1 waste ratio instead of it's 4:1 out of the box.
A built in feature that's a must have IMO is a pressure gauge because it must be at or above 40psi to work properly. If not then it needs a booster pump.

With my system, 180ppm goes in from the tap which is loaded with nitrates, flouride, chlorine, and chloramines. It comes out 0ppm every time and I know everything else is cleaned out because my RO water doesn't kill microbial life unlike it does when drawn unfiltered from the tap.
But I've never had anything like a chemical drip add on and in fact I've never seen or heard of that until now.

 

[Pipecarver]

Your RO system sounds very unusual and would be one to maybe post and link as a buyer beware warning to others not to buy.

Mine have always been basic 3 stage with sediment, KDF carbon, and the RO membrane.
Optional accessories are things like a deionization filter and maybe a prefilter mesh screen that almost looks like a fuel filter between the spigot and filter system since my home is old with old pipes.
The other accessory I added was the flow restrictor to make it a 1:1 waste ratio instead of it's 4:1 out of the box.
A built in feature that's a must have IMO is a pressure gauge because it must be at or above 40psi to work properly. If not then it needs a booster pump.

With my system, 180ppm goes in from the tap which is loaded with nitrates, flouride, chlorine, and chloramines. It comes out 0ppm every time and I know everything else is cleaned out because my RO water doesn't kill microbial life unlike it does when drawn unfiltered from the tap.
But I've never had anything like a chemical drip add on and in fact I've never seen or heard of that until now.

Well that's why it went back, The chemical drip was strictly to get it from 8 - zero. My water is great for growing 122ppm well water so I only need RO through the winter in my humidifiers. I ordered it with a full expectation of using it but as I said after reading the manual It went back

 

[Rootsruler]

I've never heard of any chemical injection in an RO system. The only thing I can think of is if there is some sort of pathogen that is harmful to humans in your specific water and they're suggesting you clear it with chemicals but I would think a UV disinfector should kill prettty much ANY pathogens in the water.....weird.

 

[Observer]

Got another Honeywell 6inch for 12$ @Rootsruler

 

[Pipecarver]

I've never heard of any chemical injection in an RO system. The only thing I can think of is if there is some sort of pathogen that is harmful to humans in your specific water and they're suggesting you clear it with chemicals but I would think a UV disinfector should kill prettty much ANY pathogens in the water.....weird.

Its not about my water it was part of the system. I know Knot I ordered I read I sent back and I had assumed they were all like that.

 

[Rootsruler]

Got another Honeywell 6inch for 12$ @Rootsruler

Where'd you find it for $12? I use the HT-900's. Is that the model you got? I think the 900's are 8".

 

[Observer]

Where'd you find it for $12?

Walmart Clarence, seems good shape, works, unlike the other LASKO one I got, gotta return that

 

[Rootsruler]

Walmart Clarence, seems good shape, works, unlike the other LASKO one I got, gotta return that

Haha! I found one of their Walmart/Mainstays brand 6" fans in the same place for $9 but it's nowhere near as good a build quality as the Honeywells. Bought it as an exhaust fan for one of the 2x2's. We'll see how long it lasts.

 

[Pipecarver]

Your RO system sounds very unusual and would be one to maybe post and link as a buyer beware warning to others not to buy.

Mine have always been basic 3 stage with sediment, KDF carbon, and the RO membrane.
Optional accessories are things like a deionization filter and maybe a prefilter mesh screen that almost looks like a fuel filter between the spigot and filter system since my home is old with old pipes.
The other accessory I added was the flow restrictor to make it a 1:1 waste ratio instead of it's 4:1 out of the box.
A built in feature that's a must have IMO is a pressure gauge because it must be at or above 40psi to work properly. If not then it needs a booster pump.

With my system, 180ppm goes in from the tap which is loaded with nitrates, flouride, chlorine, and chloramines. It comes out 0ppm every time and I know everything else is cleaned out because my RO water doesn't kill microbial life unlike it does when drawn unfiltered from the tap.
But I've never had anything like a chemical drip add on and in fact I've never seen or heard of that until now.

Okay you had me bugged thinking I'd misread or something but I found it. It was an RO/DI system with a deionization cartage and it claims its the only way to get to zero from 7-8 ppm

 

[Rootsruler]

Deionization usually means removing minerals. I'm confused as your filters are supposed to be doing that.

 

[Observer]

Haha! I found one of their Walmart/Mainstays brand 6" fans in the same place for $9 but it's nowhere near as good a build quality as the Honeywells. Bought it as an exhaust fan for one of the 2x2's. We'll see how long it lasts.

Yea true, got one of those smaller ones too like you're saying probably, works good enough to exhaust some heat out though in the smaller tents

 

[Observer]

Deionization usually means removing minerals. I'm confused as your filters are supposed to be doing that.

I don't think the de-ionization is even needed (?)

 

[Rootsruler]

Yea true, got one of those smaller ones too like you're saying probably, works good enough to exhaust some heat out though in the smaller tents

Exactly. As much as I like the ACI controller and fan I'm not sure it needs that kind of control in such a small tent.

 

[Observer]

I just full send it for veg

High heat high rh

Airflow for mold-prevention

Till I can actually dial shit in in a controlled environment/climate controlled room

60-70s
R
h 80s F

 

[Rootsruler]

I don't think the de-ionization is even needed (?)

He's trying to get to 0 ppm in his RO. Apparently there were ions in the water that aren't minerals and needed to be chemically extracted.

 

[Rootsruler]

I just full send it for veg

High heat high rh

Which is pretty much the environment they like at that stage.

 

[Observer]

Which is pretty much the environment they like at that stage.

Exactly, lol.

 

[tobh]

He's trying to get to 0 ppm in his RO. Apparently there were ions in the water that aren't minerals and needed to be chemically extracted.

wouldn't that equate to distilled water?

 

[Pipecarver]

wouldn't that equate to distilled water?

From what I remember reading most RO system's call 8 ppm Zero ppm but without deionization you can't get to real zero. I heard RO is the way to go so not knowing anything about them I Amzon for an RO system and I picked the best bang for the buck RO. I guess I bought an RODI not knowing the difference. Apparently they're good for fish tank water. I've bought water from Culligan they said was purified water but it greened up a humidifier so I went to a local shop with Zero ppm that doesn't grow alga or leave deposits. They claim it 99.99% pure