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tobh's troll cave

COCO without multi fertigation will basically perform the same as soil💯

COCO is less technical than RW as well as gives you a buffer when something goes wrong. Failed pump, timer, etc.

My mentor said a couple things that remain true 10+ years later!

COCO DTW is baby shit easy!

If it doesn’t look right it probably isn’t!

In COCO when in doubt flush it out with correct pH 50% strength nutrients with a lil extra CALMAG until the runoff pH and EC is within parameters.

If you have to flush COCO after FLIP you fucked up. PH is typically the cause in COCO.

I have ran up to 2.8 EC in COCO but in my opinion anything over 1.5 EC is a waste when feeding them multiple times per day??

Peace
 
LJFarming said:
COCO is less technical than RW as well as gives you a buffer when something goes wrong. Failed pump, timer, etc
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yea but it performs great once learned how to use
LJFarming said:
I have ran up to 2.8 EC in COCO but in my opinion anything over 1.5 EC is a waste when feeding them multiple times per day??

Peace
Click to expand...

Depends if you're crop steering and e.c stacking the media to mess with osmotic pressure and stress the plants, making the buds swell up.

And depends on the output/run off e.c. if it's higher than 0.3 or so rest is wasted
 
Observer said:
It takes longer to develop a root system in bigger pots that are ready for HFF, high frequency fertigation.

you are using fertigation, you're just not using calculated amounts and at specific times, ergo, fertigation methods, substrate management, % volume of substrate, for vegetative and generative growth, this goes into crop steering.

And, you balance everything to scale, you're scale, you're growth space.

If I'm growing in a 5 by tent with 6ft ceiling why would I use a 2 or 3 or 5 gallon pot, I can't even grow a plant that a big, passed the tent ceiling, and I don't want to veg to that long either, of course u can Start in a small pot to get a nice root system going before uppotting ans keeping doing that but that's also time and possibly stressful for plants as well.

In a tent with 6 ft ceiling, all is needed is a half gallon to 1 gallon, if going coco+salts and doing substrate management and fertigating based on volume and plants needs.

I did half gallon coco in 1 gal pandafil bags and they grew 4-5 on last run
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So the smaller pot concentrates the roots to accept the feed events vs a larger pot where the roots will spread out?
 
Rootsruler said:
So the smaller pot concentrates the roots to accept the feed events vs a larger pot where the roots will spread out?
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A smaller pot will/can build a dense root system faster, once the roots circle the bottom, they'll circle back up and envelop the media.

Takes longer with more media, especially if not meticulous on fertigation methods
 
Rootsruler said:
So the smaller pot concentrates the roots to accept the feed events vs a larger pot where the roots will spread out?
Click to expand...
Roots,

Excuse my lack of proper grower terminology!

Once the final size pot is root bound it is all but impossible to overwater! Blah blah blah!


in a small pot done correctly it’s all about how many correct dry backs you can achieve each LIGHT CYCLE to make coco DTW perform close to true hydro! It definitely is not about higher EC!

Nutrient cost and Drains seem to be the biggest things most growers are reluctant about with COCO DTW.

PRO TIP nutrients probably cost less!
10 gallons per week down the drain in DTW is 10 gallons.

The same 10 gallon reservoir that has to be manipulated with inputs everyday and water added all week in EB AND FLOW buckets or trays then changed is still 10+ gallons of waste just a bigger pain in the ass!

Side note: If TOBH the mad scientist crazy filtered system works I might need to eat my words even though I will run DTW until I quit because it’s BABYSHIT EASY!

Peace
 
Observer said:
yea but it performs great once learned how to use


Depends if you're crop steering and e.c stacking the media to mess with osmotic pressure and stress the plants, making the buds swell up.

And depends on the output/run off e.c. if it's higher than 0.3 or so rest is wasted
Click to expand...
True Crop steering is completely pointless unless you have the proper $1000’s of dollars in sensors!

We all crop steer the best we can indoors because we manipulate every input to the best of our ability!

Without more equipment/sensors than I will ever be able to afford, bullshit podcast preached crop steering is pointless to even discuss!

My 4 year old TrolMaster that controls temp, rh, and co2 and the $40 timer that goes down to the second for irrigation is as crop steering as I will probably ever have!

IMO There is absolutely no reason to think about podcast preached crop steering unless you are running at least 100 lights! I want nothing to do with more than 6 lights so I will continue to low rent crop steer the best I can.
 
LJFarming said:
True Crop steering is completely pointless unless you have the proper $1000’s of dollars in sensors!

We all crop steer the best we can indoors because we manipulate every input to the best of our ability!

Without more equipment/sensors than I will ever be able to afford, bullshit podcast preached crop steering is pointless to even discuss!

My 4 year old TrolMaster that controls temp, rh, and co2 and the $40 timer that goes down to the second for irrigation is as crop steering as I will probably ever have!

IMO There is absolutely no reason to think about podcast preached crop steering unless you are running at least 100 lights! I want nothing to do with more than 6 lights so I will continue to low rent crop steer the best I can.
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Nah, one can cropsteer a few plants at least, if you can do math, without sensors.

No such thing as "true cropsteering" you're either doing vegetative or Generative.

Not a hard concept to grasp, or pattern.

😆
 
Observer said:
Nah, one can cropsteer a few plants at least, if you can do math, without sensors.

No such thing as "true cropsteering" you're either doing vegetative or Generative.

Not a hard concept to grasp, or pattern.

😆
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Not sure why you're poking the bear, but I'll bite.

Cropsteering is legitimately an approach used by massive food production growers. You simply CANNOT perform that which is crop steering at a micro scale as it is defined.

Sure, we can borrow some techniques they use, which really come down to EC, osmotic pressure, and pH, plus environmental things like light density, rh, temperature, wind speed, etc. The reality is at a hectare scale the variables dialed down to a 4x8x8 tent are no where near the same, and that's what LJfarming is saying. Also been my point from the beginning. Working at a microscale is not nearly the same, and at best, introdues much higher risks plus higher costs for the typical home grower.

TL;DR: stay in promix, run 1/2 the recommended liquid nutrient dosage, and harvest good enough weed to impress your friends. Let the real do the real work.
 
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