Zen_seeker’s DIY Mixmash

They looked better two days ago. Heatwave is starting to screw me up.

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Turning down the light should help but I’m worried the damage is going to continue.

I think G$ said to bump the P & K the other night. Just waiting for the pots to get lighter.

The other two look okay for now. I haven’t touched them to inspect.

Just before lights out.
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10 minutes after lights out.
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I need a walk-in cooler/freezer. With a bed.
 
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That looks like a Ca. def.

They all have been fed the same. Only one feeding so far. Next ones due as soon as they get dry.

Last feed.
5ml/g Base 4-0-0
10ml/g Grow 2-6-6
5ml/g Epsom

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Was going to follow week three next. (I only have the top three nutes)

Any recommendations? I still have other nutes and ProCal 2-0-0.
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In the picture you sent me the other night it looked like P and mg.
This is looking more calcium, you can see the spotting in the leaves, before it wasn't that bad.
I'd add 5ml of that procal you have.
Ya. The light and heatwave made it worse quick. Steam had my gutt answer so I was going back to that.

Just waiting for it to dry out more now. Basement sucks now too.

Main floor is 30*. Basement is 25.5 atm. Not even looking in the tent until 4pm 😂
 
It was todays project. Still couldn’t find the stands I made.

My grow room bench/tables have been sacrificed. Got a lot of shit to relocate in the kitchen and grow room…later…but the job is done.

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I’ll be in the kitchen, sleeping, if anyone needs me.
 
@steamroller she did it, self topped. A whorled phyllotaxy mutant or triploid. It never got three to a node but close enough I’ll say G$ was right.

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I just topped the Jilly Bean and went to top the Purple Diesel and surprise.

She has this leaf from earlier…
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G$ noted that they often show sex at this time. So he had me send him a close up. He said it’s a girl!
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I see it now but I didn’t in the first nor when I was taking this shot. I miss my eyes. 😔

But I now have 3 ladies who are mostly happy and all topped.

Think I’m going to have to move Strawberry Lemonade to her own tent. First time having a taco.
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It’s lower down and the only one so far. But she needs more attention. She’s going into SCROG anyway. I just wanted to wait to save on electricity. Have to wait until after the heatwave anyway.
 
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20240621:

Lights on.
RH 58%
Temp 25c
Lights at 50% & 21” from canopy. 15.75 is recommended. Waiting to see if leaf burn is corrected.

Pots are light and plants have droopy leaves.

Feed mix for all.

06ml Base 4-0-0
12ml Grow 2-2-4
05ml ProCal 2-0-0

0.50L each of water first
2.75L each of feed second

Little runoff from the SL or PD but JB had a few 100ml. Haven’t measured.
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All three are doing nice for the new tops. SL has 2-6 trying to be king. PD is doing the same and JB has 5-6 fighting it out. Will LST later to try and get the best equal.

Leaving the tent door open for a bit.
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20240622:

Lights out.
RH 72%
Temp 23.6c

I topped JB the other day and SL earlier still. PD topped herself but was still to big so did some HST and popped her to top branches. She’s no longer floppy but still healing.
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Lights on before dark.
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45 minutes after dark.
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Temp at the leaves last night was 23-6-24.5c
 
20240624:

Three hours before lights out.
RH 63%
Temp 26c
Lights at 50%

Purple Diesel keeps fixing her branches and standing up. Had to put clips on her. Otherwise things are looking good.

The leaf burn seems to have stopped but I notice that the PD has a few bleached spots from the same time period.

Yesterday
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This morning.
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I need to put the Strawberry Lemonade in the other tent. Get the SCROG started. Then some real training.

Vegetable garden is coming along.
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Yesterday’s wind really pushed them around. Might need some TLC today. Haven’t checked yet.
 
20240625:

Day 43
RH 60-64%
Temp 25-27

Watered yesterday at 4pm lights on. They took about 4L each with runoff. Feed days I’ll keep the runoff low. Four hours to lights out.

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Picked up each plant and trimmed the leaves that browned or touched the soil. Leave them alone until the weekend, other than feeding. Then see if it’s time to split them up.
 
Jilly Bean has a few new developments. The new leaves have a lot of yellow on the tips.
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And two or three have a finger curl.
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They get fed today at 4pm lights on. And I lowered the fan as G$ suggested. Thinks it’s a humidity issue and I had the circulation fan between the light and the canopy.
 
Duckduckgo’ing I found a few things to double check at lights on.

1. Lights to close.
Maybe? Specs say 15-16” and I had it at 22” and let them grow into it. I checked the other day and the tallest was 17-18”. But possible I guess. Lights still at 50%. I also keep checking leaf temps and 22-26 have been the extremes. But I’ll check.

2. Deficiency. That’s where I’m leaning. I switched to feed, water, feed, water this time round for a few reasons. But maybe it’s not enough. I feed them tonight based on pot weight before lights out. Adding the ProCal last feed and putting the light back to 50% seems to have helped the Strawberry Lemonade get back to normal.

3. Environmental. Very possible. But I’ve been both lucky and diligent on checking the leaves and the tents temperature and humidity. Humidity has never been lower than 55% that I know of but it has been in the low 70%. The temperature hasn’t been higher than 28 but usually stays at 27 to as low as 22.

That’s where I’m at right now. Uploading is slower so I’m guessing data might be gone. I’ll check back or peek from outside later.
 
20240628:

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The above covers the last week. Humidity was an issue for sure.

Moving the Strawberry Lemonade to the other tent this afternoon or tomorrow morning. The three plants fill the 3x3 already.

Gave them a slight defoil under the canopy. Help with humidity and new growth. Not liking some of the whispy branches on the PD.
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Feed yesterday afternoon;

06ml/g Base 4-0-0
12ml/g Grow 2-2-4
03ml/g ProCal 2-0-0

Each plant received 3.75L with minor runoff.

Keeping an eye on the new growth and JB specifically.

The Base nutrient has some of the same as the ProCal so I might drop the ProCal next feed and supplement with Epsom. 🤔
 
Moves done. Saucers washed quickly and lights matched at 300-350 LUX.

So now the hard part. Setting up SCROG later after lights on at 4pm. That will give them a bit before I muck with them.

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Circulation fans are up out of the way when I water or move them around. They don’t go low enough to have them blow directly on the plants. Below the canopy. (Wonder if safe plug-in in-line dimmers exist?)
 
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@Aqua Man
I’ve been trying to keep the lights-on leaf surface temperature at 24*c with good success so far. I’ve also looked into it to see what my safety margins are. Which seems to be 22-28 on average for best results.

Humidity can be a problem at lights-out but do you have a recommended range or temperature number? Searching has multiple suggestions.
 
@Aqua Man
I’ve been trying to keep the lights-on leaf surface temperature at 24*c with good success so far. I’ve also looked into it to see what my safety margins are. Which seems to be 22-28 on average for best results.

Humidity can be a problem at lights-out but do you have a recommended range or temperature number? Searching has multiple suggestions.
Ok if we are talking about no co2 supplementation then 75-77f (24-25c) leaf temps are ideal during photosynthesis.

Now for night time temps this depends on your goals and not so much for the plant health.

A positive diff is normal and produces normal grow. A night time AIR (not leaf) temp of around 5-10f is absolutely fine and normal. Leaf temps will maybe drop a few degrees much depending on the wind, root temps, and air temps.

Now once you reach the point of the same air temp 0 diff and same leaf temps. You will see a tiny reduction in internode spacing.

Once you reach a negative diff where air temps are warmer at night and plant temps even a degree higher than day temps you will see a fairly big reduction in internode spacing.

So it depends on your wants/needs. Ideally the first option is optimal if you are not looking to reduce internode length.

Now the other consideration is your humidity. You ideally want lower humidity at night to reduce the risk of pathogens or condensation.

Warmer air holds more moisture and as it cools your humidity will spike. So you can use temperature to lower your humidity if needed. In which case i would say go with constant temps and you will keep humidity slightly lower than day time because the plant's are transpiring less.

If thats clear as mud i can answer in more detail or if you have a specific question let me know
 
Ok if we are talking about no co2 supplementation then 75-77f (24-25c) leaf temps are ideal during photosynthesis.
That you noted prior and is the number I shoot for.

Now for night time temps this depends on your goals and not so much for the plant health.
Okay.

A positive diff is normal and produces normal grow. A night time AIR (not leaf) temp of around 5-10f is absolutely fine and normal. Leaf temps will maybe drop a few degrees much depending on the wind, root temps, and air temps.
I think you mean a nighttime positive air temperature increase of 5*f to 10*f is normal depending on circumstances and causes normal growing conditions. My temperatures rarely go up at lights out. So I think I’m misunderstanding this point.

Now once you reach the point of the same air temp 0 diff and same leaf temps. You will see a tiny reduction in internode spacing.
So on the occasions when everything maintains the same temperature growth, or stretching in this case, is reduced so nodes are tighter together. (This occurs often when I have my seedlings/clones in the smaller zones.)

Once you reach a negative diff where air temps are warmer at night and plant temps even a degree higher than day temps you will see a fairly big reduction in internode spacing.
I don’t think I’ve knowingly experienced this yet but it tracks.

So it depends on your wants/needs. Ideally the first option is optimal if you are not looking to reduce internode length.
That seems a handy tool to have if I want to keep things shorter and tighter in the future. But normal growth is fine at this point.

Now the other consideration is your humidity. You ideally want lower humidity at night to reduce the risk of pathogens or condensation.
This is usually the opposite of my environment. Lights out the temperature drops about 5*c on average at a guess. The humidity climbs from 50’s to 60’s or a bit more. Lights out is when I most often have the dehumidifier running.

Warmer air holds more moisture and as it cools your humidity will spike. So you can use temperature to lower your humidity if needed. In which case i would say go with constant temps and you will keep humidity slightly lower than day time because the plant's are transpiring less.
Yes, and this is a tool I try to use when I can. But is usually a watch and see moment. Then I decide if I want/need to trade off humidity for higher temperatures before turning on the dehumidifier.

If thats clear as mud i can answer in more detail or if you have a specific question let me know
You answered my question in the first paragraph but the explanation is fine. Even confirmed some things I’ve noticed.

However the third paragraph is either backwards or I’m losing you. It’s early so it might be me but this sentence seems incomplete?
A night time AIR (not leaf) temp of around 5-10f is absolutely fine and normal.

Thanks for the original answer. Ill be back to see what I missed later on.
 
I think you mean a nighttime positive air temperature increase of 5*f to 10*f is normal depending on circumstances and causes normal growing conditions. My temperatures rarely go up at lights out. So I think I’m misunderstanding this point.
I meant 5-10f cooler at night. That is a positive differential. Daytime is higher than night.

That seems a handy tool to have if I want to keep things shorter and tighter in the future. But normal growth is fine at this point.
It can be especially during stretch if you vegged a little too long.
 
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