Using Far red lights at lights out

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16mm is close to half inch 9mm close to quarter inch. You would have to get small lenght of 16mm tubing to run from fitting to 16mm side of filter
Yes that would work with 16mm - 9mm hose line I'd also need something 16mm/1/2" from the reservoir to the adapter. If I could come out of my res with a 16mm top hat grommet to the filter with a 1/2" / 16mm line I could use that adapter to connect the 9mm line
 
Yes that would work with 16mm - 9mm hose line I'd also need something 16mm/1/2" from the reservoir to the adapter. If I could come out of my res with a 16mm top hat grommet to the filter with a 1/2" / 16mm line I could use that adapter to connect the 9mm line
I made up another order from indoorfarmer. I ordered a 16mm filter, some 16mm hose, a 16mm top hat grommet,16mm shut off valve 3 more air bases, more Grove bags & humidity pack & what ever else to get a $125 free shipping order1739021811267.png
 
I made up another order from indoorfarmer. I ordered a 16mm filter, some 16mm hose, a 16mm top hat grommet,16mm shut off valve 3 more air bases, more Grove bags & humidity pack & what ever else to get a $125 free shipping orderView attachment 89312
That will do it. will still need to reduce 16mm to 9mm coming off filter to hook up feed lines. A minor detail
 
That will do it. will still need to reduce 16mm to 9mm coming off filter to hook up feed lines. A minor detail
I would still like the golf filter as the first filter inline but they don't seem to make them for 16mm/1/2" line. I can probably build up the 9mm line with tape then hose clamp or tie wrap it tight but I'd rather have one that fits properly, sometimes my fixes fail and cause leaks.

My new Mars light is supposed to arrive today, It was supposed to arrive yesterday, Fedex tracking had in on the truck out for delivery, another company, Dragonfly notified me today they had it on the truck and it will arrive today.
 
I have the Spiderfarmer Glow 40's but after looking on the Canadian web sites they are sold out., I also bought 3 of these far red pucks from Rapid Led, 1 puck covers a 3x3, I bought 3 for my 5x5. If you order from Rapid get the power supply and lens offered for them at $5 it gives better coverage with the lens onView attachment 89156

Do u like the glows better or are the pucks just as good? What would you suggest for a 5x5? I understand u r still experimenting, but that's way further than where I'm at
 
I would still like the golf filter as the first filter inline but they don't seem to make them for 16mm/1/2" line. I can probably build up the 9mm line with tape then hose clamp or tie wrap it tight but I'd rather have one that fits properly, sometimes my fixes fail and cause leaks.
Zip ties or pipe clamps work best if you find a pipe to insert in the hose to prevent collapse.
They don't have to fit perfect you can wrap it with tape or a piece of cut hose.
 
The glows are a bit better for size of coverage. I used 3 pucks in my 5x5 & I still needed another puck before I bought the Glow 40's. I'm still using 1 puck + the glow40's in my 5x5 but I'm only using my tent as a 4x5 for coverage. the front foot has my heater and humidifier.SF had Glow 80's but I'm not seeing any of the reds available from them in Canada now. Rapid Led has some interesting lights. If you wanted to build a light they have a lot of options to choose from.I've been looking at their Royal Blue puck for veg to play with but unsure of what I'd get from them
 
Zip ties or pipe clamps work best if you find a pipe to insert in the hose to prevent collapse.
They don't have to fit perfect you can wrap it with tape or a piece of cut hose.
Yes, I have some pipe the just might fit. I didn't think of that, nice tip, thanks. It may help me with another connection I have hose pipe - hose pipe, jammed in together with tape holding it poorly.I have pipe, I keep busting the small hose clamps by turning them just 1 more time to tighten & sprong fk, they just don't work well after that.
 
Yes, I have some pipe the just might fit. I didn't think of that, nice tip, thanks. It may help me with another connection I have hose pipe - hose pipe, jammed in together with tape holding it poorly.I have pipe, I keep busting the small hose clamps by turning them just 1 more time to tighten & sprong fk, they just don't work well after that.
Im pretty sure i have some of those fittings to join hoses if you cant find any let me no. The same size as picture half inch to quarter inch.
 
Yes, I have some pipe the just might fit. I didn't think of that, nice tip, thanks. It may help me with another connection I have hose pipe - hose pipe, jammed in together with tape holding it poorly.I have pipe, I keep busting the small hose clamps by turning them just 1 more time to tighten & sprong fk, they just don't work well after that.
Shrink wrap might help if the tube can take it or be protected until done. Glue type if water proof is a worry. 🤷‍♂️
 
Shrink wrap might help if the tube can take it or be protected until done. Glue type if water proof is a worry. 🤷‍♂️
I need to get my parts and figure it out. I also probably need to drill another hole in my reservoir to fit the 1/2" top hat grommet. Re-drilling an existing hole can make the hole sloppy.
 
I need to get my parts and figure it out. I also probably need to drill another hole in my reservoir to fit the 1/2" top hat grommet. Re-drilling an existing hole can make the hole sloppy.
Plug old hole with these

MECCANIXITY Silicone Rubber Hole Plug on amazon. I used these on two grow trays that had drilled holes no leakage for me.​

 
Plug old hole with these

MECCANIXITY Silicone Rubber Hole Plug on amazon. I used these on two grow trays that had drilled holes no leakage for me.​

awesome I was just going to leave the golf filter and short hose to a shut off valve but they are an iffy connection as is, I get weeping at the top hat and outside the tank if I shuffle the tank around. I went and pulled on the line to snug the golf filter into the hole and pulled too hard, popped off the line and hat my nutes pouring out the bottom after a fresh refill. Got wet but I was able to capture most of it in my 10 gal wine making pot & had to wait until it drained to fixer up....lol...don't pull on that line, make sure its tight before adding water...fk...got it..lol
 
yay, they be comin!

what did the mfg recommend for the UV, no more than 3 hours max..?
maybe do like something around 10 cycles of 18-20 minutes during the lights on, right?


discount for 8% is SF8 i think
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Hey, those aren't the Far red lights if that's what your looking for. Mars is the only one I've seen that still has the far red.

I was looking at the UV too but I'm on the edge of power consumption in my tents now, I'm a bit afraid of any more watts blowing fuses, even just another 50w could do it.

 
I found the perfect tool to add some far red to your plants light while working on them. This thing looks reversible so the therapy lights will shine on the plants when you are working with them....another brilliant idea brought to you by cannabis, our 1 true provider of inspiration and grand idea's.1740512250273.png
 
Hey, those aren't the Far red lights if that's what your looking for. Mars is the only one I've seen that still has the far red.

I was looking at the UV too but I'm on the edge of power consumption in my tents now, I'm a bit afraid of any more watts blowing fuses, even just another 50w could do it.

I have 2 sets of these for my tents:


They're running in the 730nm-745nm wavelength.

I also have 2 sets of these:

 
Last edited:
I have 2 sets of these for my tents:


They're running in the 730nm-745nm wavelength.

I also have 2 sets of these:

Just for clarity so you know what I'm doing ...

I'm referencing this article: https://www.alchimiaweb.com/blogen/emerson-effect/

Here's a few paragraphs copied and pasted from the article I referenced:

What is the Emerson effect in plants?​

The Emerson effect is a biological phenomenon observed in plants when they receive light with a wavelength of about 660-670 nm (deep red) together with red light at 700-7300 nm (far red). It was discovered by the American scientist Robert Emerson in the 1950s while researching photosynthesis in green algae; In 1957, Emerson reported the results of his research on what we today call the "Emerson Effect", a phenomenon by which photosynthesis in plants is increased by exposing chloroplasts to lights with wavelengths of 670 nm (red or deep red) and 700 nm (far red light) simultaneously. These experiments demonstrated, over time, that there are two photosynthetic reaction centers in plants.

Therefore, illuminating your plants with a combination of deep red (650-680 nm) and far red (700-730 nm) at the same time should increase the photosynthetic rate of your plants, which will be higher than if you used either. the two types of light separately. By having both types of light, plants will react by increasing their rate of photosynthesis, accelerating their metabolism, and producing a greater amount of energy, which can translate into plants that are more resistant to stress, faster in their development, and with greater production of flowers. and fruits, as well as compounds such as cannabinoids and terpenes.

Thus, the Emerson effect describes how photosynthesis in plants can be more efficient when they simultaneously receive these two types of light. In other words, thanks to this phenomenon we can achieve what we are all looking for in our crops: healthier, more resistant, and productive. Although the Emerson effect has been shown to occur in different plant species, it must be said that there is still a lot to learn about the exact mechanisms behind this phenomenon and how it can be used in practical applications, such as the case of cannabis cultivation.


I'm going to jump down the page to another group of paragraphs that describes how I am running my lights ...

Turning lamps on and off: take advantage of the Emerson effect​

Without a doubt, one of the most popular and widely used techniques about this phenomenon is the use of lamps with both types of red light (deep red and far red) that turn on a little before the main grow lamp and turn off. a little after this one. Thus, a good strategy is to turn on your red lamp 15 minutes before, for example, your HPS equipment or LED panel, and turn it off about 15 minutes after your main lighting equipment.

In this way, your "normal" growing lamp will continue with a photoperiod of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness, while the photoperiod of the red light will be 12:30 hours on and 11:30 hours off, since you must leave it on throughout the daytime period of the plants, that is, also during the 12 hours in which your main lamp will be connected.
 
Just for clarity so you know what I'm doing ...

I'm referencing this article: https://www.alchimiaweb.com/blogen/emerson-effect/

Here's a few paragraphs copied and pasted from the article I referenced:

What is the Emerson effect in plants?​

The Emerson effect is a biological phenomenon observed in plants when they receive light with a wavelength of about 660-670 nm (deep red) together with red light at 700-7300 nm (far red). It was discovered by the American scientist Robert Emerson in the 1950s while researching photosynthesis in green algae; In 1957, Emerson reported the results of his research on what we today call the "Emerson Effect", a phenomenon by which photosynthesis in plants is increased by exposing chloroplasts to lights with wavelengths of 670 nm (red or deep red) and 700 nm (far red light) simultaneously. These experiments demonstrated, over time, that there are two photosynthetic reaction centers in plants.

Therefore, illuminating your plants with a combination of deep red (650-680 nm) and far red (700-730 nm) at the same time should increase the photosynthetic rate of your plants, which will be higher than if you used either. the two types of light separately. By having both types of light, plants will react by increasing their rate of photosynthesis, accelerating their metabolism, and producing a greater amount of energy, which can translate into plants that are more resistant to stress, faster in their development, and with greater production of flowers. and fruits, as well as compounds such as cannabinoids and terpenes.

Thus, the Emerson effect describes how photosynthesis in plants can be more efficient when they simultaneously receive these two types of light. In other words, thanks to this phenomenon we can achieve what we are all looking for in our crops: healthier, more resistant, and productive. Although the Emerson effect has been shown to occur in different plant species, it must be said that there is still a lot to learn about the exact mechanisms behind this phenomenon and how it can be used in practical applications, such as the case of cannabis cultivation.


I'm going to jump down the page to another group of paragraphs that describes how I am running my lights ...

Turning lamps on and off: take advantage of the Emerson effect​

Without a doubt, one of the most popular and widely used techniques about this phenomenon is the use of lamps with both types of red light (deep red and far red) that turn on a little before the main grow lamp and turn off. a little after this one. Thus, a good strategy is to turn on your red lamp 15 minutes before, for example, your HPS equipment or LED panel, and turn it off about 15 minutes after your main lighting equipment.

In this way, your "normal" growing lamp will continue with a photoperiod of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness, while the photoperiod of the red light will be 12:30 hours on and 11:30 hours off, since you must leave it on throughout the daytime period of the plants, that is, also during the 12 hours in which your main lamp will be connected.
So you keep the reds on for 12 1/2 hours a day?
Do you do this for the whole flower cycle?
 
So you keep the reds on for 12 1/2 hours a day?
Do you do this for the whole flower cycle?
Yes, I have completed one grow using this method. I added extra deep red and far red for my current run ... which I will be starting 12/12 probably this weekend.

Edit: I will post pictures when I change the light cycle so we have a reference to where they started.
 
Yes, I have completed one grow using this method. I added extra deep red and far red for my current run ... which I will be starting 12/12 probably this weekend.

Edit: I will post pictures when I change the light cycle so we have a reference to where they started.
I've tried a few ways to utilize the far reds. I tried 15 min on before lights out - 15 after lights out. same with lights on in the AM through their entire flower period. and extended my hours of light on from 12/12 - 13/11-14/10 the last 10 days. hoping for an early harvest of 9 weeks rather than 10-11. I harvested at 10 weeks with no marked difference I could see with my sometimes faulty observational skills.
I find just that 15 min at lights out makes them jump. I'm almost afraid to use them because of the stretching. I have them on tonight again and I'll see how many days more but I gotta keep an eye on them or they get out of hand fast.
 
I've tried a few ways to utilize the far reds. I tried 15 min on before lights out - 15 after lights out. same with lights on in the AM through their entire flower period. and extended my hours of light on from 12/12 - 13/11-14/10 the last 10 days. hoping for an early harvest of 9 weeks rather than 10-11. I harvested at 10 weeks with no marked difference I could see with my sometimes faulty observational skills.
I find just that 15 min at lights out makes them jump. I'm almost afraid to use them because of the stretching. I have them on tonight again and I'll see how many days more but I gotta keep an eye on them or they get out of hand fast.
Last grow, I did have to tie them down later in flower. I don't have a ton of overhead room. My tent is 80" but to save space on the inside, my exhaust system is on the outside so I can actually hang the light within an inch of the fabric roof. I have a lot more reds now. My girls are also in large tomato cages so I'll have plenty of spots to tie them up so they don't grow out of their space.

I'm anxious to see what happens.
 
I just realized my MarsHydro FC8000 have the IR lights built in so they run for the full grow for me~! :cool:

Does your MarsHydro produce this much red?

Reds.jpg

Picture is from about 10 days ago when I was adding my new lights to the tent:

Here's a picture with all the lights on ... even my blues.

Lights.jpg

Edit: Plants in the picture with the reds all have their mainstems tied down. They bush out a lot more for me that way.
 
Does your MarsHydro produce this much red?

View attachment 91035

Picture is from about 10 days ago when I was adding my new lights to the tent:

Here's a picture with all the lights on ... even my blues.

View attachment 91036
There is no separate control for the so they are always and only on when all lights are on.
They may not be true IR but say 660mm-665nm. There are 120 diodes per fixture [15 per bar].
The links you listed stated they are excellent supplements for lower model Mars lights so that made me look and see why not the higher wattage lights.
 
There is no separate control for the so they are always and only on when all lights are on.
They may not be true IR but say 660mm-665nm. There are 120 diodes per fixture [15 per bar].
The links you listed stated they are excellent supplements for lower model Mars lights so that made me look and see why not the higher wattage lights.
I bought the highest wattage I could find within my price range. I wanted to add more Grow Daddy LEDs but he was out of the 660nm/730nm boards. Now I have both Mars and SpiderFarmer in there along with my 640w Nano-Lux fixture. I also have 2 sets of AC Infinity IonBeams for side lighting.
 
Hi...been lurking for awhile and thought I'd chime in on the lights topic. I run ir for 15mins before and after lights....I run uva for 10 to 15mins/hr with main schedule to counter the ir induced stretch. If stretching more than I like I increase duration. I also supplement red(660nm) with main schedule throughout flower to improve yield. Main lights are Mars fc8000's and using their new adlites and also old style bars. I've also found the uva will cause plants to eat more magnesium.
 
Hi...been lurking for awhile and thought I'd chime in on the lights topic. I run ir for 15mins before and after lights....I run uva for 10 to 15mins/hr with main schedule to counter the ir induced stretch. If stretching more than I like I increase duration. I also supplement red(660nm) with main schedule throughout flower to improve yield. Main lights are Mars fc8000's and using their new adlites and also old style bars. I've also found the uva will cause plants to eat more magnesium.
Are you saying the UVA keeps plant shorter and helps fight the stretching with the reds?. Too much stretching is what limits the amount of red I do use. There's no way I can run them from 1 week - 3 weeks in flower. I don't have enough tent for that.. I find 15 min at lights out ample and 1 week is long enough. Then from 4 weeks on they can be on every night, stretching is done so I'm good to go.

I just transplanted and hooked up my Autopots and they've just started to feed from the trays and have jumped in color and overall health in the last 2 days. I added the reds for just 15 min last night and I swear they look better again today. I think I see through rose colored glasses after using them for just15 min again. I'm really impressed by how much a small amount of far red effects the plants growth.
 
That will do it. will still need to reduce 16mm to 9mm coming off filter to hook up feed lines. A minor detail
Hey, I got that filter last week, just waiting on a bulkhead fitting. Its not quite what I expected, its ....how should I say? ,,,fking huge. I'm not sure this fker is going to work but I'll give it a try. I'll have to do some finagling and mount this thing to a leg post in front of my res before running it into my trays. I expected a small hand sized unit not this monstrosity.
 

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Hi...been lurking for awhile and thought I'd chime in on the lights topic. I run ir for 15mins before and after lights....I run uva for 10 to 15mins/hr with main schedule to counter the ir induced stretch. If stretching more than I like I increase duration. I also supplement red(660nm) with main schedule throughout flower to improve yield. Main lights are Mars fc8000's and using their new adlites and also old style bars. I've also found the uva will cause plants to eat more magnesium.
Thank you for this insight!
I'm using dedicated IR and UVA bars for the first time this run, and was wondering myself if the UV would negate some stretch from the IR. I have the same time settings you have for both. Thanks for sharing
 
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