Anybody used this?

[Driver77]

I've been using Silica Blast from Botainicare but keep hearing plants can't use it very well in it's form...so I found this sillicic acid stuff and wonder if anyone has any experience with it good or bad???

 

[Observer]

I've been using Silica Blast from Botainicare but keep hearing plants can't use it very well in it's form...so I found this sillicic acid stuff and wonder if anyone has any experience with it good or bad??? View attachment 129078

no

it says it only contains 1% of MSA, rest is sio4 or sio2 sounds like its not much different then the other product lol
though, plant probably does need a high % of MSA to be happy, reap its cellular benefits.

but i think potassium sillicate + phosphoric acid / bulk = make youre own MSA = way 2 go.

cheaper and more efficient, you want MSA.

monosilicic acid, its bio-available, instantly - basicallly. SiO2 is not, needs time to break down.

CH3SO3H = MSA

 

[Pipecarver]

I've been using Silica Blast from Botainicare but keep hearing plants can't use it very well in it's form...so I found this sillicic acid stuff and wonder if anyone has any experience with it good or bad??? View attachment 129078

I don't use any silicate products, I've tried but didn't have any success and fked up my grows. All me I wasn't using it correctly but its scared me off. I have a full un opened bottle sitting, I had good intentions with it but I hate fking up grows so it sits gathering dust. I was asked by a friend why I wanted to add silicates to a successful growing method? Bigger, better,badder was my reply but at what cost? how many fkups to go through to fix what wasn't broken in the first place. I've seen your grows, why do you want to add a silicate? Bigger, badder, better or are you having other issues you hope a silicate will help with

 

[OLDCRO]

I don't use any silicate products, I've tried but didn't have any success and fked up my grows. All me I wasn't using it correctly but its scared me off. I have a full un opened bottle sitting, I had good intentions with it but I hate fking up grows so it sits gathering dust. I was asked by a friend why I wanted to add silicates to a successful growing method? Bigger, better,badder was my reply but at what cost? how many fkups to go through to fix what wasn't broken in the first place. I've seen your grows, why do you want to add a silicate? Bigger, badder, better or are you having other issues you hope a silicate will help with

I have tried using silca in a couple of grows just caused PH problems. Cost 90.00 dollars collecting dust also chaulked it up to A fool and his money is soon parted !!

 

[Observer]

if yall arent using ur silicate or MSA ill take it off ur hands lol

silica and MSA products are fucking stupid expensive.
can turn silica into MSA though.

 

[Observer]

no

it says it only contains 1% of MSA, rest is sio4 or sio2 sounds like its not much different then the other product lol
though, plant probably does need a high % of MSA to be happy, reap its cellular benefits.

but i think potassium sillicate + phosphoric acid / bulk = make youre own MSA = way 2 go.

cheaper and more efficient, you want MSA.

monosilicic acid, its bio-available, instantly - basicallly. SiO2 is not, needs time to break down.

CH3SO3H = MSA

i meant, probably DOESNT need a high %

 

[Observer]

most of those $90 bottles are just a recipe for a pH nightmare

The problem is that most products use Potassium Silicate, which is basically 'liquid glass'—it's super alkaline and the plant can't even use it until it breaks down into Monosilicic Acid (MSA). By the time that happens, your pH has already swung out of the park.

MSA specifically because it's bio-available immediately.

You use a fraction of the amount, so it doesn't fight your base nutrients or mess with the stability you’ve already built.

makes the plant's cell walls "iron-clad"
and few other benefits--

• Pest and Pathogen Shielding: By depositing a physical silica layer in the outer cells, the plant becomes much harder for biting insects to chew and for fungal hyphae (like powdery mildew) to penetrate.

• Abiotic Stress Tolerance: It helps the plant manage extreme temperature swings and drought by regulating transpiration more effectively through the stomata.

• Increased Stem Rigidity: This prevents "floppy" plants under heavy light or fruit weight, reducing the need for physical supports.

• Nutrient Synergies: Silica can help prevent "nutrient lockout" by aiding the uptake of other essential elements like Phosphorus and Zinc while mitigating potential metal toxicities.

• Metabolic Efficiency: It essentially acts as a catalyst, improving the plant’s internal "logistics" so it can focus energy on production rather than just structural maintenance.

 

[Driver77]

I don't use any silicate products, I've tried but didn't have any success and fked up my grows. All me I wasn't using it correctly but its scared me off. I have a full un opened bottle sitting, I had good intentions with it but I hate fking up grows so it sits gathering dust. I was asked by a friend why I wanted to add silicates to a successful growing method? Bigger, better,badder was my reply but at what cost? how many fkups to go through to fix what wasn't broken in the first place. I've seen your grows, why do you want to add a silicate? Bigger, badder, better or are you having other issues you hope a silicate will help with

lol...isn't bigger badder always better?? Actually it's not... I've been using the "Blast" stuff after having a pm problem years back and someone suggesting it as being helpful. Did some research and it does indeed have beneficial qualities for weed. For me just the mold prevention is enough and I've never had a problem since...knock on wood...so I've kept using it. I can't say that I saw a day and night difference in appearance but stems did seem more flexible when young and stiffer in late flower with no other ill effects. Never really followed a dosage schedule, just used to adjust ph up every now and then. This is where my fall down the rabbit hole starts...I've read and witnessed it coming out of solution if ph is too low. Also it seems it's not as available to the plant in that form so I'm looking into the MSA alternatives. Been using this stuff I pictured a little and see no damage but noticed the low percentage of the actual goods too late. So now looking for those that have already went this route to hopefully save some time and money in the search.

 

[Driver77]

i meant, probably DOESNT need a high %

That was my understanding but again I'm just starting with it and flying blind

 

[Observer]

That was my understanding but again I'm just starting with it and flying blind

id have to go over the numbers/data but the plants dont need a lot of the chemical, they can only uptake and use so much
like even 10% MSA would be amazing and probably enough, hell 1% probably is, i just have to confirm the data/facts

MSA is the best form, its bio-available and ready for uptake as soon as it hits the roots or the leaves, i think MSA as a foliar applicaton would be best though? i need to confirm

 

[Observer]

lol...isn't bigger badder always better?? Actually it's not... I've been using the "Blast" stuff after having a pm problem years back and someone suggesting it as being helpful. Did some research and it does indeed have beneficial qualities for weed. For me just the mold prevention is enough and I've never had a problem since...knock on wood...so I've kept using it. I can't say that I saw a day and night difference in appearance but stems did seem more flexible when young and stiffer in late flower with no other ill effects. Never really followed a dosage schedule, just used to adjust ph up every now and then. This is where my fall down the rabbit hole starts...I've read and witnessed it coming out of solution if ph is too low. Also it seems it's not as available to the plant in that form so I'm looking into the MSA alternatives. Been using this stuff I pictured a little and see no damage but noticed the low percentage of the actual goods too late. So now looking for those that have already went this route to hopefully save some time and money in the search.

trying to help/ and educate my self and others.

right path now

 

[Observer]

lol...isn't bigger badder always better?? Actually it's not... I've been using the "Blast" stuff after having a pm problem years back and someone suggesting it as being helpful. Did some research and it does indeed have beneficial qualities for weed. For me just the mold prevention is enough and I've never had a problem since...knock on wood...so I've kept using it. I can't say that I saw a day and night difference in appearance but stems did seem more flexible when young and stiffer in late flower with no other ill effects. Never really followed a dosage schedule, just used to adjust ph up every now and then. This is where my fall down the rabbit hole starts...I've read and witnessed it coming out of solution if ph is too low. Also it seems it's not as available to the plant in that form so I'm looking into the MSA alternatives.

Been using this stuff I pictured a little and see no damage but noticed the low percentage of the actual goods too late. So now looking for those that have already went this route to hopefully save some time and money in the search.

you can buy agsil16-/ POTASSIUM SILICATE and mix it with 85% PHOSPHORIC ACID to create MSA

its on the forums here

moe.red MSA agsil potassium silicate phosphoric acid

 

[Observer]

lol...isn't bigger badder always better?? Actually it's not... I've been using the "Blast" stuff after having a pm problem years back and someone suggesting it as being helpful. Did some research and it does indeed have beneficial qualities for weed. For me just the mold prevention is enough and I've never had a problem since...knock on wood...so I've kept using it. I can't say that I saw a day and night difference in appearance but stems did seem more flexible when young and stiffer in late flower with no other ill effects.

seeeing that low-dose/ % doing some work though.

Never really followed a dosage schedule, just used to adjust ph up every now and then. This is where my fall down the rabbit hole starts...I've read and witnessed it coming out of solution if ph is too low. Also it seems it's not as available to the plant in that form so I'm looking into the MSA alternatives. Been using this stuff I pictured a little and see no damage but noticed the low percentage of the actual goods too late. So now looking for those that have already went this route to hopefully save some time and money in the search.

 

[Observer]

i have a post or thread somewhere also explaining what MSA is/ silica/silicon, etc

 

[Observer]

That was my understanding but again I'm just starting with it and flying blind

if ur growing in soil though, you have the time to allow the regular silica products to break down into MSA probably

the plant cant uptake sio2 or sio4, period, it has to convert.

 

[Pipecarver]

I have tried using silca in a couple of grows just caused PH problems. Cost 90.00 dollars collecting dust also chaulked it up to A fool and his money is soon parted !!

It was you that asked me the question, i heard what you said and took it too heart. I started some new seeds this week and I keep thinking about using it starting around week 3 when they first need feed but??? They are not in the AP's until later weeks 5 or so I wouldn't have to worry about it mixing well in my res. I think it was Dirtbag that was big on the silicates but he knew his sht well and was in rock wool cubes.I wanted to emulate his growing so I bought the stuff.

 

[Pipecarver]

I've been adding Azomite to the soil along with Gypsum at about 1 tbsp/gal soil and Azomite has silica in it.

 

[OLDCRO]

I've been adding Azomite to the soil along with Gypsum at about 1 tbsp/gal soil and Azomite has silica in it.

I add gypsum and Azomite when i first prepare grow bags also. I never check PH and the silica was throwing me for a loop with PH problems so silica is gone when i did use it didnt see any noticeable difference.

 

[TomH]

I’ve used rice hulls before. I cut the soil with about 1/4 hulls, those are packed with silica and I believe its pretty rapidly available.

 

[Observer]

I’ve used rice hulls before. I cut the soil with about 1/4 hulls, those are packed with silica and I believe its pretty rapidly available.

it has to break down first, which in organic systems, it can but it takes weeks-months.
the plant can not uptake sio2

• The Forms: Rice hulls are primarily composed of biogenic opaline silica (SiO_2). As we established, plants only recognize and uptake monosilicic acid (H_4SiO_4).
• The Timeline: For that silica to become "rapidly available," it requires intense microbial activity to break down the carbon structure and release the minerals via mineralization.

 

[B2ACG]

I've been using Silica Blast from Botainicare but keep hearing plants can't use it very well in it's form...so I found this sillicic acid stuff and wonder if anyone has any experience with it good or bad??? View attachment 129078

Hey @Driver77
Just a heads up information

Most nutrient company's don't use silica and the ones that do have great success with it.. but proper use is required..
There is a mixing order that needs to be followed.. because if not mixed correctly, the silica can bind to other nutrient compounds in the water making them less available to the plant..
For example if the added these things all at once to the water in a concentrated form.. they will bind together...

First added to the water

1 silica.. mix throughly
2 calmag.. mix throughly
3 Base Nutrients.. mix throughly
4 Bloom Booster
5 Ph up or Down
6 Wait for water temperature to settle because the +/- ions in the water are affect by the temperature.. hence why your tds meter has a temp button..
7 Readjust ph if needed.. mix throughly
8 Microbes (Microbes are ph neutral) mix throughly

I hope this information is helpful.. but I also encourage you to research it as well.. have a great day.. if I was you. I would have called the company for tips on how to best use their product..

 

[Pipecarver]

I add gypsum and Azomite when i first prepare grow bags also. I never check PH and the silica was throwing me for a loop with PH problems so silica is gone when i did use it didnt see any noticeable difference.

I'm same, I never check ph, I don't seem to need to, water, nutes, seeds, dirt and pots and letter grow. I think my water is well suited for no phup or down use, my nutes drop it from 7.2-3 to 6.5 ish and plants seem to like it.

 

[Observer]

I'm same, I never check ph, I don't seem to need to, water, nutes, seeds, dirt and pots and letter grow. I think my water is well suited for no phup or down use, my nutes drop it from 7.2-3 to 6.5 ish and plants seem to like it.

Don't really need to with organics, proper soil. 6.5 is good range for that

 

[Driver77]

most of those $90 bottles are just a recipe for a pH nightmare

The problem is that most products use Potassium Silicate, which is basically 'liquid glass'—it's super alkaline and the plant can't even use it until it breaks down into Monosilicic Acid (MSA). By the time that happens, your pH has already swung out of the park.

MSA specifically because it's bio-available immediately.

You use a fraction of the amount, so it doesn't fight your base nutrients or mess with the stability you’ve already built.

makes the plant's cell walls "iron-clad"
and few other benefits--

• Pest and Pathogen Shielding: By depositing a physical silica layer in the outer cells, the plant becomes much harder for biting insects to chew and for fungal hyphae (like powdery mildew) to penetrate.

• Abiotic Stress Tolerance: It helps the plant manage extreme temperature swings and drought by regulating transpiration more effectively through the stomata.

• Increased Stem Rigidity: This prevents "floppy" plants under heavy light or fruit weight, reducing the need for physical supports.

• Nutrient Synergies: Silica can help prevent "nutrient lockout" by aiding the uptake of other essential elements like Phosphorus and Zinc while mitigating potential metal toxicities.

• Metabolic Efficiency: It essentially acts as a catalyst, improving the plant’s internal "logistics" so it can focus energy on production rather than just structural maintenance.

Hey @Driver77
Just a heads up information

Most nutrient company's don't use silica and the ones that do have great success with it.. but proper use is required..
There is a mixing order that needs to be followed.. because if not mixed correctly, the silica can bind to other nutrient compounds in the water making them less available to the plant..
For example if the added these things all at once to the water in a concentrated form.. they will bind together...

First added to the water

1 silica.. mix throughly
2 calmag.. mix throughly
3 Base Nutrients.. mix throughly
4 Bloom Booster
5 Ph up or Down
6 Wait for water temperature to settle because the +/- ions in the water are affect by the temperature.. hence why your tds meter has a temp button..
7 Readjust ph if needed.. mix throughly
8 Microbes (Microbes are ph neutral) mix throughly

I hope this information is helpful.. but I also encourage you to research it as well.. have a great day.. if I was you. I would have called the company for tips on how to best use their product..

Solid info and part of the reason for the post.....the potassium silicate requires special care when mixing and still isn't available to the plants till it breaks down. Which got me looking at MSA's instead because they don't effect ph and are instantly available for the plant to use. My main concerns were the low percentage of it in the product I posted and the boric acid and calcium hydroxide it's packaged with.
It never occurred to me to contact the producer and ask lol....guess I'm still adjusting to being legal. That and wanted input from real growers that may have used it.

 

[Driver77]

I have tried using silca in a couple of grows just caused PH problems. Cost 90.00 dollars collecting dust also chaulked it up to A fool and his money is soon parted !!

That's one of the reasons I'm switching to MSA supplements...no effects on ph and readily available for plants to use.