Suggestion Box for topics

[moe.red]

Yeah what happened to him.last I seen he was trying out breeding then vanished..have you had contact with him moe

Yeah, me and Milson were buds. I sent him some THC Victory clones when he was working to help his dad with Parkinsons.

His intelligence was so unique. He dropped all social media at the same time, conscious decision, and as far as I know has not been back. Mental Heath break that obviously worked for him. Nothing but the best to Mils.

I looked around for Kanzeon the other day too, and his website is down, no way to contact him.

 

[Aqua Man]

Moving some of my stuff over today. Spectrum will be finished by Tuesday and o2 hopefully shortly after that

 

[LJFarming]

How about an over-arching Who We Are and What We Believe section I like what Mad Max said about reliable resources

Myth dispelling is one thing but best practices probably provide a better yardstick for newer growers who may have difficulty separating the wheat from the chaff.

Water: Oxygenated water will increase plant health and is good for roots. Rain water is best, purest...Water slowly, take 1/2 of the water you want to give -- and wait 1 hour for the next 1/2.
Soil: Easiest to get started with 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 plus additives. Don't use compost raw -- it must sit and mature. Re-using soil OK? Discuss.
Seeds: No one should have to buy them if they are budget minded? Give away section?
Lights: Largely $$$ talks here, better ones are more expensive...not sure if much more needed
Darkness: I thought this was a thing....but others say it isn't discuss
Hydro: Know nothing about this one....
Bugs: Ditto
Edibles: Brownies are good

Just spitballing here as Pipe carver says....interesting he is being chased globally by ladies...

Best practices is seriously the best new idea I have heard this far! If there was a best practices section on the forums way back I probably would not have made several hundred mistakes that I made. However for new growers it truly needs to be separated IMO. because outdoor dirt farmers, indoor soil growers, and indoor hydro/coco/rockwool grows need to made clear outta the gate. I cannot imagine how many rabbit holes I went chasing doing indoor techniques to outdoor plants and vise versa! Maybe I’m just dumb but this shit can be so overwhelming to a new grower! Just my 2 centavos!

Peace out,

LJ

 

[Rootsruler]

Best practices is seriously the best new idea I have heard this far! If there was a best practices section on the forums way back I probably would not have made several hundred mistakes that I made. However for new growers it truly needs to be separated IMO. because outdoor dirt farmers, indoor soil growers, and indoor hydro/coco/rockwool grows need to made clear outta the gate. I cannot imagine how many rabbit holes I went chasing doing indoor techniques to outdoor plants and vise versa! Maybe I’m just dumb but this shit can be so overwhelming to a new grower! Just my 2 centavos!

Peace out,

LJ

Agreed

 

[LJFarming]

All depends on the nutrient ratios and tbh i cant say which is best for what because there are sooo many different ratios.

Using Athena will be different than using jacks.

Typically they do very well at a wide range so long as it is relatively stable.

Add to that different genetics will have a preference. Probably the best method would to to find its native habitat but even that doesn’t exist for many strains.

So imho in hydro a range from 5.4 to 6.2 should be fine and yes in veg when nitrogen demand is high you will likely benefit from a lower PH and as the demands change a higher PH is favourable.

I would say its likely you have your PH dialled in and those numbers are a very good place to be. Only over several grows of the same genetic might you dial it in better. But as long as your within range you can also tweak ratios.

The fact we change our ph and ratios is where ppl can create problems but its also where ppl can dial in their grows to perfection.

If newer i suggest just sticking to the range and keeping ratios very similar or the same for the entire grow.

But you sir are neither of those and will/have benefited from tweaking both.

Jeez I can’t seen to answer anything definitively lol

Aqua in short what is your take on PH?
I like to run say 5.6 veg and early flower 5.8 mid flower and 5.9 late flower.
I should have added in hydro

Anthem,

First I think your pH numbers are dead on! I ran Jacks for years and was on the fence about switching to Athena after running Jacks since the day I started running coco DTW but accidentally saw a podcast about JRCROPTECH I’m only 19 days into my first run using it but truly think I’m doing better. JR will cost less than $150 for a 6 light grow also. Even Jacks was a lil more than that. Again who knows how I will finish and I’m definitely not looking to pimp JRCroptech. Just food for thought.

Peace out,

LJ

 

[Franksta]

Mycology section, and lots of how to: If you want to give me a few assignments on a subject, please let me know what would be helpful.

 

[Franksta]

Best practices is seriously the best new idea I have heard this far! If there was a best practices section on the forums way back I probably would not have made several hundred mistakes that I made. However for new growers it truly needs to be separated IMO. because outdoor dirt farmers, indoor soil growers, and indoor hydro/coco/rockwool grows need to made clear outta the gate. I cannot imagine how many rabbit holes I went chasing doing indoor techniques to outdoor plants and vise versa! Maybe I’m just dumb but this shit can be so overwhelming to a new grower! Just my 2 centavos!

Peace

Substrates can certainly differ but much boil down to watering frequency, air exchange capacity and drain ability..

The Major or main subdivision in growing strategy occurs along inorganic salts/hydro/aero verse nitrogen fixating organisms and fungi used in organics.... coco choir is somewhere in between in the substrate category. more forgiving than hydro, less forgiving than soils, and organic amendments.

Except in a few minor instances; these two main strategies are wholly/totally incompatible with one another, for the most part. Nitrogen fixation thrives in low phosphorus environments utilizing AM fungi, whereas salts/hydro generally use higher phosphorus levels, tightly controlled pH, exact EC and optimized NPK Ratio's that are wholesale incompatible with many microorganisms; except in a few minor specific instances.

the incompatibility between these two major/main strategies can be very difficult for novice growers to comprehend what's occuring...


Growing pot is a lot like fishing, you can use a net... or a rod and reel. Both methods excel in various environments. An expert fisherman; master a few methods proficiently, and maybe a third; or forth...

 

[smoke]

Sxs

Anthem,

First I think your pH numbers are dead on! I ran Jacks for years and was on the fence about switching to Athena after running Jacks since the day I started running coco DTW but accidentally saw a podcast about JRCROPTECH I’m only 19 days into my first run using it but truly think I’m doing better. JR will cost less than $150 for a 6 light grow also. Even Jacks was a lil more than that. Again who knows how I will finish and I’m definitely not looking to pimp JRCroptech. Just food for thought.

Peace out,

LJ

You know, i run a 4 light hps grow in flower and ive never figured the cost of nutrients per light.

Pulled this on your jrcroptech

 

[smoke]

Substrates can certainly differ but much boil down to watering frequency, air exchange capacity and drain ability..

The Major or main subdivision in growing strategy occurs along inorganic salts/hydro/aero verse nitrogen fixating organisms and fungi used in organics.... coco choir is somewhere in between in the substrate category. more forgiving than hydro, less forgiving than soils, and organic amendments.

Except in a few minor instances; these two main strategies are wholly/totally incompatible with one another, for the most part. Nitrogen fixation thrives in low phosphorus environments utilizing AM fungi, whereas salts/hydro generally use higher phosphorus levels, controlled pH, EC and NPK Ratio's that are incompatible with many microorganisms; except in a few specific instances.

the incompatibility between these two strategies can be very difficult for novice growers to master.


Growing pot is a lot like fishing, you can use a net... or a rod and reel. Both methods excel in various environments.

except in a few specific instances

Care you elaborate , i grow in a 4 site RDWC setup where im not live or sterile, im neither where i don't add anything to the water except nutes. im curious on your thoughts on how my method can/could/will effect my npk balance

 

[Franksta]

Care you elaborate , i grow in a 4 site RDWC setup where im not live or sterile, im neither where i don't add anything to the water except nutes. im curious on your thoughts on how my method can/could/will effect my npk balanceThis type of bond can occur in inorganic molecules such as water and in organic molecules like DNA and proteins.

well being in-between, correct me if I'm wrong here aqua. You should try and stay away from nitrogen fixation bacteria first and foremost. Since the biggest threat to your methods pH controls, is wild fluctuations. AM fungi could technically thrive, if the phosphorus is low enough... possibly, by experienced hands.. Also, organic fraction that can help, like enzymes, or precursor that compliment salt assembly lines ratio's . Vitamin B's, plant hormones, even some basic organic acid fractions could be of benefit. The key here is don't FUBAR your pH stability.

I think some of these higher end premade solutions have formulated some of these fractions, but not sure on the exact specifics, I've been trying to learn how to make my solutions from scratch; but again; I'm also into fermentation.


I have other ideas, just don't want to throw out experimental ideas on this thread, difficult subject just as it stands; will simply create more confusion.

In chemistry, a hydrogen bond (or H-bond) is a primarily electrostatic force of attraction between a hydrogen (H) atom which is covalently bound to a more electronegative "donor" atom or group (Dn), and another electronegative atom bearing a lone pair of electrons—the hydrogen bond acceptor (Ac) Hydrogen bonds can be intermolecular (occurring between separate molecules) or intramolecular (occurring among parts of the same molecule). The energy of a hydrogen bond depends on the geometry This type of bond can occur in inorganic molecules such as water and in organic molecules like DNA and proteins.

 

[smoke]

well being in-between, correct me if I'm wrong here aqua. You should try and stay away from nitrogen fixation bacteria first and foremost. Since the biggest threat to your methods pH controls, is wild fluctuations. AM fungi could technically thrive, if the phosphorus is low enough... possibly, by experienced hands.. Also, organic fraction that can help, like enzymes, or precursor that compliment salt assembly lines ratio's . Vitamin B's, plant hormones, even some basic organic acid fractions could be of benefit. The key here is don't FUBAR your pH stability.

I think some of these higher end premade solutions have formulated some of these fractions, but not sure on the exact specifics, I've been trying to learn how to make my solutions from scratch; but again; I'm also into fermentation.


I have other ideas, just don't want to throw out experimental ideas on this thread, difficult subject just as it stands; will simply create more confusion.

In chemistry, a hydrogen bond (or H-bond) is a primarily electrostatic force of attraction between a hydrogen (H) atom which is covalently bound to a more electronegative "donor" atom or group (Dn), and another electronegative atom bearing a lone pair of electrons—the hydrogen bond acceptor (Ac) Hydrogen bonds can be intermolecular (occurring between separate molecules) or intramolecular (occurring among parts of the same molecule). The energy of a hydrogen bond depends on the geometry This type of bond can occur in inorganic molecules such as water and in organic molecules like DNA and proteins.

Quote " You should try and stay away from nitrogen fixation bacteria first and foremost. Since the biggest threat to your methods pH controls, is wild fluctuations. "

ph fluctuations are indeed something i see in my system regularly and reading what you said about staying away from nitrogen fixation bacteria makes me think the bacteria im growing naturally in my system is the "good " bacteria because running out of nitrogen early Is something i see more often than not while usually chasing a falling ph.

I feed GH 3part

 

[Aqua Man]

Quote " You should try and stay away from nitrogen fixation bacteria first and foremost. Since the biggest threat to your methods pH controls, is wild fluctuations. "

ph fluctuations are indeed something i see in my system regularly and reading what you said about staying away from nitrogen fixation bacteria makes me think the bacteria im growing naturally in my system is the "good " bacteria because running out of nitrogen early Is something i see more often than not while usually chasing a falling ph.

I feed GH 3part

Nitrogen fixing bacteria pull nitrogen from the atmosphere and turn into usable nitrogen for the plants.

I dont feel there is any harm to using them so long as like all bacteria… population is kept in check. The boom and bust of populations can play havoc with ph due to decay and respiration. The PH issues it creates is from the carbonic acid associated with those 2 things.

The bacteria that consumes nitrogen is actually anaerobic so we dont see these in our systems

 

[LJFarming]

Sxs

You know, i run a 4 light hps grow in flower and ive never figured the cost of nutrients per light.

Pulled this on your jrcroptech
View attachment 4135

They sell Veg and Flower and recommend yara CalNit and Calcium Chloride. A 50# bag of CalNit is $30 vs. $80 for 25# of Jacks CalNit. Their flower and veg bags are about $100 each for 25#

 

[Anthem275]

Anthem,

First I think your pH numbers are dead on! I ran Jacks for years and was on the fence about switching to Athena after running Jacks since the day I started running coco DTW but accidentally saw a podcast about JRCROPTECH I’m only 19 days into my first run using it but truly think I’m doing better. JR will cost less than $150 for a 6 light grow also. Even Jacks was a lil more than that. Again who knows how I will finish and I’m definitely not looking to pimp JRCroptech. Just food for thought.

Peace out,

LJ

I was no aware of JR Croptech. I have been moving away from Jacks, I have tried it a few different ways but it just will not work as well at Athena. There is a company Custom Hydroponics, he had masterblend make a custom blend that is the same as Athena Flower 0-12-24. I am running that now. Jacks produces a really nice quality bud but it just does not come close to Athena in weights. I am hoping to over come the everything smells the same problem with Athena. I have used both for several years.
I took a look at JR Croptech and I have tried using Pure Cal in the past over Calcium Nitrate. I am not so sure that taking the ammonia out of the Calcium Nitrate is such a good idea for this plant.

 

[brettdawg]

Tips on how to grow in soil
Ive moved from coco to soil. .
More info out there on coco i have found


Maybe talk about calmag. Dont no if anyone watches welcome to the grow tent on youtube. But he says calmag can br stopped end of week 3. Not needed after stretch. .

Im not sure about that one.

Flushing topic for newbies maybe.
Big debate on this one. As sone flush some dont. Some taper nutes down. .
Maybe only need to flush if over fertilised

 

[moe.red]

Tips on how to grow in soil
Ive moved from coco to soil. .
More info out there on coco i have found


Maybe talk about calmag. Dont no if anyone watches welcome to the grow tent on youtube. But he says calmag can br stopped end of week 3. Not needed after stretch. .

Im not sure about that one.

Flushing topic for newbies maybe.
Big debate on this one. As sone flush some dont. Some taper nutes down. .
Maybe only need to flush if over fertilised

Good suggestions there, so much room for bro-science.

 

[tobh]

Agreed. Deep dives on flushing and cal-mag would be invaluable for the lazy helpers to link to.

 

[GoodShit97]

Never really used CalMag until this grow, so yeah, a nice write up on calmag would be great for my dumbass
I only flush if ive overfed them or my kid sprayed bleach in them

 

[Aqua Man]

Thats a lot easier than spectrum so i can prob do that tonight.

 

[Franksta]

Quote " You should try and stay away from nitrogen fixation bacteria first and foremost. Since the biggest threat to your methods pH controls, is wild fluctuations. "

ph fluctuations are indeed something i see in my system regularly and reading what you said about staying away from nitrogen fixation bacteria makes me think the bacteria im growing naturally in my system is the "good " bacteria because running out of nitrogen early Is something i see more often than not while usually chasing a falling ph.

I feed GH 3part

Carbonic acid transfers a hydrogen ion to the lone pair on the nitrogen of the ammonia and forms an ammonium ion. NH4+

most certainly a fairly fast reaction that's going to alter pH level depending on concentration of reactants

 

[LJFarming]

You smart kids have definitely gone way past my intelligence when it comes to elemental anything. JRCROPTECH was formulated by Josh Neulinger and he has been growing dope a long time and posts massive plant pics regularly on IG. Again it’s my first go with them and am by no means pimpin them but I really like what I see thus far!

 

[Anthem275]

You smart kids have definitely gone way past my intelligence when it comes to elemental anything. JRCROPTECH was formulated by Josh Neulinger and he has been growing dope a long time and posts massive plant pics regularly on IG. Again it’s my first go with them and am by no means pimpin them but I really like what I see thus far!

I did not know that was the name of his brand. I have seen his IG pictures, not really sold on his formula. But it is better than running Jacks per their formula I would imagine. I have no idea who is packaging his stuff.
Athena was originally formulated by Jungle Boys when it was really Jungle Boys. They have since sold Jungle Boys and Luxx from what I know. I have never heard if they retained Athena or not. Athena was being made by Grow More when they first started out. I know Athena pulls some really shitty stuff. Like for example they buy Calcium Nitrates and add the required Micro Nutrients to the Calcium Nitrate so you are forced to buy their Calcium Nitrate unless you know how to jailbreak around it. Secondly, they post their Magnesium PPM at about half of what is actually in the mix. I used it for a few years but as I mentioned it makes everything smell the same when dried.
I am sticking with Jacks for Veg just to use up what I have and using Masterblend 0-12-24, Calcium Nitrate and Magnesium sulfate later in flower to get more sulphur into the plant. I kind of like the calcium and nitrogen all in one bag so I can lower it at the same time. I might use some calcium chloride the last few weeks to supplement Calcium and back off nitrogen.
Athena Came out with Fade, it is Calcium Chloride and Chlorine with the trace nutrients to replace those lost by not using their Calcium Nitrate. I have tried the stuff but I am not sold on it because the Chlorine kills all the life in the rez.
I need to do some more research on the Calcium Chloride, I know Josh swears by it but I have also heard people say it is not good for the plant to have all that Chloride in the Rez.

 

[LJFarming]

Anybody reading this have a ballpark of what it costs per grow to run Athena per typical 700 watt LED with 16 plants per 4x4 tray? It seemed like it would be a lot higher than Jacks. I’m not bad mouthing Jacks or Athena at all. I have grown great weed that sells in Cali for more than most hydro growers I know running nutrients that cost 5x more than Jacks. However I believe after running Jacks for a few years that they are missing something. The terps and quality always seemed to turn out very good but as someone said before it seems that if running 3 or 4 strains that the terps are way too similar. I honestly can’t say but I think they were on to something? Salts are cheap compared to anything in a bottle and for hydro/coco is the only way to go IMO! So maybe I will try Athena next. However I do truly feel that JR potentially put more work into their formula as well as if you email Josh or Ramsey they always get back to you. They answer the phone or call you back as well so that’s a big plus for a grower that doesn’t know elemental nothing about nutrients. Ramsey also worked for (grodan? ) rock wool manufacturer for years and I’m pretty sure he brought crop steering to the dope table for us dope growers? I try to fuck around with crop steering KIND OF but it’s another G or 2Gs to upgrade my 6 light room to all the technical equipment necessary to do it properly. For now I’m fine with open ended drip lines and multi feeds everyday. Again as I have said before baby shit easy once the system is in place and no worries about clogged drippers, very expensive pumps, sprinkler valves, and an irrigation controller. Just my thoughts boys and girls as I crack my first beer for the day and wait for the lights to come on in a couple hours.

 

[LJFarming]

I did not know that was the name of his brand. I have seen his IG pictures, not really sold on his formula. But it is better than running Jacks per their formula I would imagine. I have no idea who is packaging his stuff.
Athena was originally formulated by Jungle Boys when it was really Jungle Boys. They have since sold Jungle Boys and Luxx from what I know. I have never heard if they retained Athena or not. Athena was being made by Grow More when they first started out. I know Athena pulls some really shitty stuff. Like for example they buy Calcium Nitrates and add the required Micro Nutrients to the Calcium Nitrate so you are forced to buy their Calcium Nitrate unless you know how to jailbreak around it. Secondly, they post their Magnesium PPM at about half of what is actually in the mix. I used it for a few years but as I mentioned it makes everything smell the same when dried.
I am sticking with Jacks for Veg just to use up what I have and using Masterblend 0-12-24, Calcium Nitrate and Magnesium sulfate later in flower to get more sulphur into the plant. I kind of like the calcium and nitrogen all in one bag so I can lower it at the same time. I might use some calcium chloride the last few weeks to supplement Calcium and back off nitrogen.
Athena Came out with Fade, it is Calcium Chloride and Chlorine with the trace nutrients to replace those lost by not using their Calcium Nitrate. I have tried the stuff but I am not sold on it because the Chlorine kills all the life in the rez.
I need to do some more research on the Calcium Chloride, I know Josh swears by it but I have also heard people say it is not good for the plant to have all that Chloride in the Rez.

Aqua turned me on to Potassium Sulfate instead of MAGSuL for the last three weeks of flower when running Jacks and he gets 100% props for that the terps are definitely better using it!

Again I have no elemental knowledge but while running Jacks I would pull 25% per week of the recommended CalNit and replace with GrowMore no N flowering CalMag. I also run Bare Naked ladies after stretch and no leaf with a stem is allowed to stay. My mentor taught me that very little N is needed after stretch as well as to strip the girls. I’m sure this will make 50% of growers say I’m wrong. I’m not looking for an argument Right wrong or indifferent it’s the way I roll. 16 smaller short veg plants per 4x4 tray/light, coco DTW, and after a less than 5 years I’m pulling over 2 per light with very little effort and trimming is easier if you keep the girls naked. Again my opinion and I’m definitely not preaching!

Peace out,

LJ

 

[tobh]

Aqua turned me on to Potassium Sulfate instead of MAGSuL for the last three weeks of flower when running Jacks and he gets 100% props for that the terps are definitely better using it!

Again I have no elemental knowledge but while running Jacks I would pull 25% per week of the recommended CalNit and replace with GrowMore no N flowering CalMag. I also run Bare Naked ladies after stretch and no leaf with a stem is allowed to stay. My mentor taught me that very little N is needed after stretch as well as to strip the girls. I’m sure this will make 50% of growers say I’m wrong. I’m not looking for an argument Right wrong or indifferent it’s the way I roll. 16 smaller short veg plants per 4x4 tray/light, coco DTW, and after a less than 5 years I’m pulling over 2 per light with very little effort and trimming is easier if you keep the girls naked. Again my opinion and I’m definitely not preaching!

Peace out,

LJ

iirc that's what Front Row AG uses in their bloom formula for the extra bump in sulfur. Super important mineral for building terps.

 

[Anthem275]

Aqua turned me on to Potassium Sulfate instead of MAGSuL for the last three weeks of flower when running Jacks and he gets 100% props for that the terps are definitely better using it!

Again I have no elemental knowledge but while running Jacks I would pull 25% per week of the recommended CalNit and replace with GrowMore no N flowering CalMag. I also run Bare Naked ladies after stretch and no leaf with a stem is allowed to stay. My mentor taught me that very little N is needed after stretch as well as to strip the girls. I’m sure this will make 50% of growers say I’m wrong. I’m not looking for an argument Right wrong or indifferent it’s the way I roll. 16 smaller short veg plants per 4x4 tray/light, coco DTW, and after a less than 5 years I’m pulling over 2 per light with very little effort and trimming is easier if you keep the girls naked. Again my opinion and I’m definitely not preaching!

Peace out,

LJ

Athena I was right around 2.75 per light. And I am in Cali so I know what is quality.

 

[Anthem275]

Anybody reading this have a ballpark of what it costs per grow to run Athena per typical 700 watt LED with 16 plants per 4x4 tray? It seemed like it would be a lot higher than Jacks. I’m not bad mouthing Jacks or Athena at all. I have grown great weed that sells in Cali for more than most hydro growers I know running nutrients that cost 5x more than Jacks. However I believe after running Jacks for a few years that they are missing something. The terps and quality always seemed to turn out very good but as someone said before it seems that if running 3 or 4 strains that the terps are way too similar. I honestly can’t say but I think they were on to something? Salts are cheap compared to anything in a bottle and for hydro/coco is the only way to go IMO! So maybe I will try Athena next. However I do truly feel that JR potentially put more work into their formula as well as if you email Josh or Ramsey they always get back to you. They answer the phone or call you back as well so that’s a big plus for a grower that doesn’t know elemental nothing about nutrients. Ramsey also worked for (grodan? ) rock wool manufacturer for years and I’m pretty sure he brought crop steering to the dope table for us dope growers? I try to fuck around with crop steering KIND OF but it’s another G or 2Gs to upgrade my 6 light room to all the technical equipment necessary to do it properly. For now I’m fine with open ended drip lines and multi feeds everyday. Again as I have said before baby shit easy once the system is in place and no worries about clogged drippers, very expensive pumps, sprinkler valves, and an irrigation controller. Just my thoughts boys and girls as I crack my first beer for the day and wait for the lights to come on in a couple hours.

Who said Jacks makes terps smell the same?

 

[Observer]

anecdotal - sample size of multiple strains with similar terp profiles all running same nutrients/env (?)

 

[Franksta]

Aqua turned me on to Potassium Sulfate instead of MAGSuL for the last three weeks of flower when running Jacks and he gets 100% props for that the terps are definitely better using it!

Again I have no elemental knowledge but while running Jacks I would pull 25% per week of the recommended CalNit and replace with GrowMore no N flowering CalMag. I also run Bare Naked ladies after stretch and no leaf with a stem is allowed to stay. My mentor taught me that very little N is needed after stretch as well as to strip the girls. I’m sure this will make 50% of growers say I’m wrong. I’m not looking for an argument Right wrong or indifferent it’s the way I roll. 16 smaller short veg plants per 4x4 tray/light, coco DTW, and after a less than 5 years I’m pulling over 2 per light with very little effort and trimming is easier if you keep the girls naked. Again my opinion and I’m definitely not preaching!

Peace out,

LJ

Two covalent oxygen bonds. Yikes I think oxidation Redox is pretty cool stuff



That's an efficient looking unit for sure. Lots of potential sitting in this molecule. Four oxygen...




K2SO4 with sulfuric acid. It forms rhombic pyramids,. A rhombus base attached to four identical scalene triangle




Sulfur + oxygen is the real magic in this one I believe. Not the K+ as much

I personally start with potassium hydroxide...liberating two hydrogen and two oxygen atoms from sulfuric acid.. Let's calculate molar mass

2 KOH ( aq ) + H 2 SO 4 ( aq ) → K 2 SO 4 ( aq ) + 2 H 2 O ( l ) .

Fishing net...a fishing pole... Same result in the right environment

 

[Observer]

Two covalent oxygen bonds. Yikes I think oxidation Redox is pretty cool stuff



That's an efficient looking unit for sure. Lots of potential sitting in this molecule. Four oxygen...

View attachment 4240


K2SO4 with sulfuric acid. It forms rhombic pyramids,. A rhombus base attached to four identical scalene triangle

View attachment 4241


Sulfur + oxygen is the real magic in this one I believe. Not the K+ as much

Ramifications?

I don't speak Chem yet

I need to start reading chemistry books, further understand our little biological synthesizers

 

[Franksta]

Ramifications?

I don't speak Chem yet

I need to start reading chemistry books, further understand our little biological synthesizers

Lots of sulfur...oxygen... hydrogen.. bound together with some potassium

 

[Observer]

Lots of sulfur...oxygen... hydrogen.. bound together with some potassium

That oxygen go right to the roots?

 

[Observer]

How much oxygen is too much would one need to factor in their h2o2 usage

 

[Franksta]

How much oxygen is too much would one need to factor in their h2o2 usage

Yeah I read the equation wrong at first also


It's not H202 up there. End product was 2H. Plus 2O.... And I don't think too much oxygen is ever a issue at the roots... Aqueous O2 saturation depends on the temperature and to lesser degrees atmospheric pressure

 

[Observer]

Yeah I read the equation wrong at first also


It's not H202 up there. End product was 2H. Plus 2O....

Ah I see

And I don't think too much oxygen is ever a issue at the/ roots... Aqueous O2 concentration depends on the temperature and pressure

I was underdosing my h2o2 34% - 0.1-0.5 ml
Did 3ml~/gallon this last solution, so what happens if I do 20ml? Or 50?

I got some of it in my mouth, short story I dropped my syringe and squeezed the bottle to get bring it up to the top, I don't have 3 hands though, so I used mouth lol. - don't advise - still taste peroxide.

All good.

Man it's been a rough time

Most of the o2 dissipates (?)

I'ma read my chem book tomorrow, and try to start catching up more.

 

[Observer]

Sorry my text is all over the place.

 

[Observer]

What would "catalyst" be, in growing?

 

[Franksta]

Ah I see

I was underdosing my h2o2 34% - 0.1-0.5 ml
Did 3ml~/gallon this last solution, so what happens if I do 20ml? Or 50?

I got some of it in my mouth, short story I dropped my syringe and squeezed the bottle to get bring it up to the top, I don't have 3 hands though, so I used mouth lol. - don't advise - still taste peroxide.

All good.

Man it's been a rough time

Most of the o2 dissipates (?)

I'ma read my chem book tomorrow, and try to start catching up more.

Be careful with undiluted peroxide. NOT GOOD

At minimum your teeth will be white

 

[Observer]

Be careful with undiluted peroxide. NOT GOOD

Yea....I usually don't fuck around with it, just stick my little syringe in lol, little burns on my finger tips
Sometimes

Will never get that In my mouth again, of course I rinsed immediately but it happens fast.

 

[Franksta]

Yea....I usually don't fuck around with it, just stick my little syringe in lol, little burns on my finger tips
Sometimes

Will never get that In my mouth again, of course I rinsed immediately but it happens fast.

Yeah you don't wanna be part of the reaction quite yet


Let it stew into cannabis first