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Aqua Man said:
I can say it WILL effect the plants but how i cant say if it will be positive or negative because i just dont know anything about it. As does magnetism and i have a feeling that electromagnetism is probably whats being used. Ill watch the video shortly and see what i can pick out.

But as of now i think it’s something that needs a lot more research and im not sure if the gains if any are worth the effort but again i know very little about this
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There's not a lot on it.

Few Chinese universities(?) Have studied it, maybe some American in the 1800s or so.

Not a lot of research on it, I've been all over it.

@Aqua Man , the main idea is supposedly using electricity to ""STIMULATE"" plants by "shocking" them, increasing ion/nutrient uptake(?)

phys.org

Chinese researchers claim electroculture works as theorized

A team of researchers affiliated with multiple institutions in China reports that electroculture can increase agricultural yields. In their paper published in the journal Nature Food, the group describes growing peas using traditional methods while applying electric shocks to other pea crops.
phys.org phys.org

------and there's this ----

"""bare copper wires have been suspended three metres above ground level. The cables run the full length of the greenhouses and carry rapid pulses of positive charge, up to 50,000 volts. These high-voltage bursts kill bacteria and viral plant diseases both in the air and the soil. They also affect the surface tension of any water droplets on the leaves of plants, accelerating vaporization.""

""introduction of electricity into the plants’ immediate environment is also credited with helping assist the transportation of naturally charged particles, such as bicarbonate and calcium ions, within the plants.

It also seems to speed up metabolic activities like carbon dioxide absorption and photosynthesis""

www.weforum.org

China has made a shocking food production discovery – electro culture

Boosting yields without putting pressure on strained resources could help feed the planet’s growing population.
www.weforum.org www.weforum.org

altifarm.com

Electroculture Gardening

Electroculture gardening is a cutting-edge and fascinating method of plant cultivation that makes use of electrical currents to promote plant development and boost output. While being relatively new and little recognised, this method has recently become more well-liked among gardeners and...
altifarm.com altifarm.com

Again, you know the basics way more than I do, so I don't know how this builds off that.
 
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Observer said:
There's not a lot on it.

Few Chinese universities(?) Have studied it, maybe some American in the 1800s or so.

Not a lot of research on it, I've been all over it.

@Aqua Man , the main idea is supposedly using electricity to ""STIMULATE"" plants by "shocking" them.

phys.org

Chinese researchers claim electroculture works as theorized

A team of researchers affiliated with multiple institutions in China reports that electroculture can increase agricultural yields. In their paper published in the journal Nature Food, the group describes growing peas using traditional methods while applying electric shocks to other pea crops.
phys.org phys.org

------and there's this ----

"""bare copper wires have been suspended three metres above ground level. The cables run the full length of the greenhouses and carry rapid pulses of positive charge, up to 50,000 volts. These high-voltage bursts kill bacteria and viral plant diseases both in the air and the soil. They also affect the surface tension of any water droplets on the leaves of plants, accelerating vaporization.""

""introduction of electricity into the plants’ immediate environment is also credited with helping assist the transportation of naturally charged particles, such as bicarbonate and calcium ions, within the plants.

It also seems to speed up metabolic activities like carbon dioxide absorption and photosynthesis""

www.weforum.org

China has made a shocking food production discovery – electro culture

Boosting yields without putting pressure on strained resources could help feed the planet’s growing population.
www.weforum.org www.weforum.org

Again you know the basics way more than I do, so I don't how this builds off that.
Click to expand...
Yeah i can see how it nay effect electrons and such with nutrients. I think the idea has merit just not enough data
 
Aqua Man said:
I have to go through and try to find it… ill send it to you in a pm. But likely tomorrow cause my edibles are kickin in and i will prob end up staring at some random email for an hr if i look now lol
Click to expand...
Off to planet Milson are we..😆I remember last time, you was gone for awhile and your wifey had to tuck you in to bed 😂😂😂
 
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Yeah what happened to him.last I seen he was trying out breeding then vanished..have you had contact with him moe
 
Mad Max said:
Yeah what happened to him.last I seen he was trying out breeding then vanished..have you had contact with him moe
Click to expand...
Yeah, me and Milson were buds. I sent him some THC Victory clones when he was working to help his dad with Parkinsons.

His intelligence was so unique. He dropped all social media at the same time, conscious decision, and as far as I know has not been back. Mental Heath break that obviously worked for him. Nothing but the best to Mils.

I looked around for Kanzeon the other day too, and his website is down, no way to contact him.
 
SiamSam said:
How about an over-arching Who We Are and What We Believe section I like what Mad Max said about reliable resources

Myth dispelling is one thing but best practices probably provide a better yardstick for newer growers who may have difficulty separating the wheat from the chaff.

Water: Oxygenated water will increase plant health and is good for roots. Rain water is best, purest...Water slowly, take 1/2 of the water you want to give -- and wait 1 hour for the next 1/2.
Soil: Easiest to get started with 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 plus additives. Don't use compost raw -- it must sit and mature. Re-using soil OK? Discuss.
Seeds: No one should have to buy them if they are budget minded? Give away section?
Lights: Largely $$$ talks here, better ones are more expensive...not sure if much more needed
Darkness: I thought this was a thing....but others say it isn't discuss
Hydro: Know nothing about this one....
Bugs: Ditto
Edibles: Brownies are good

Just spitballing here as Pipe carver says....interesting he is being chased globally by ladies...
Click to expand...
Best practices is seriously the best new idea I have heard this far! If there was a best practices section on the forums way back I probably would not have made several hundred mistakes that I made. However for new growers it truly needs to be separated IMO. because outdoor dirt farmers, indoor soil growers, and indoor hydro/coco/rockwool grows need to made clear outta the gate. I cannot imagine how many rabbit holes I went chasing doing indoor techniques to outdoor plants and vise versa! Maybe I’m just dumb but this shit can be so overwhelming to a new grower! Just my 2 centavos!

Peace out,

LJ
 
LJFarming said:
Best practices is seriously the best new idea I have heard this far! If there was a best practices section on the forums way back I probably would not have made several hundred mistakes that I made. However for new growers it truly needs to be separated IMO. because outdoor dirt farmers, indoor soil growers, and indoor hydro/coco/rockwool grows need to made clear outta the gate. I cannot imagine how many rabbit holes I went chasing doing indoor techniques to outdoor plants and vise versa! Maybe I’m just dumb but this shit can be so overwhelming to a new grower! Just my 2 centavos!

Peace out,

LJ
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Agreed
 
Aqua Man said:
All depends on the nutrient ratios and tbh i cant say which is best for what because there are sooo many different ratios.

Using Athena will be different than using jacks.

Typically they do very well at a wide range so long as it is relatively stable.

Add to that different genetics will have a preference. Probably the best method would to to find its native habitat but even that doesn’t exist for many strains.

So imho in hydro a range from 5.4 to 6.2 should be fine and yes in veg when nitrogen demand is high you will likely benefit from a lower PH and as the demands change a higher PH is favourable.

I would say its likely you have your PH dialled in and those numbers are a very good place to be. Only over several grows of the same genetic might you dial it in better. But as long as your within range you can also tweak ratios.

The fact we change our ph and ratios is where ppl can create problems but its also where ppl can dial in their grows to perfection.

If newer i suggest just sticking to the range and keeping ratios very similar or the same for the entire grow.

But you sir are neither of those and will/have benefited from tweaking both.

Jeez I can’t seen to answer anything definitively lol
Click to expand...
Anthem275 said:
Aqua in short what is your take on PH?
I like to run say 5.6 veg and early flower 5.8 mid flower and 5.9 late flower.
I should have added in hydro
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Anthem,

First I think your pH numbers are dead on! I ran Jacks for years and was on the fence about switching to Athena after running Jacks since the day I started running coco DTW but accidentally saw a podcast about JRCROPTECH I’m only 19 days into my first run using it but truly think I’m doing better. JR will cost less than $150 for a 6 light grow also. Even Jacks was a lil more than that. Again who knows how I will finish and I’m definitely not looking to pimp JRCroptech. Just food for thought.

Peace out,

LJ
 
LJFarming said:
Best practices is seriously the best new idea I have heard this far! If there was a best practices section on the forums way back I probably would not have made several hundred mistakes that I made. However for new growers it truly needs to be separated IMO. because outdoor dirt farmers, indoor soil growers, and indoor hydro/coco/rockwool grows need to made clear outta the gate. I cannot imagine how many rabbit holes I went chasing doing indoor techniques to outdoor plants and vise versa! Maybe I’m just dumb but this shit can be so overwhelming to a new grower! Just my 2 centavos!

Peace
Click to expand...




Substrates can certainly differ but much boil down to watering frequency, air exchange capacity and drain ability..

The Major or main subdivision in growing strategy occurs along inorganic salts/hydro/aero verse nitrogen fixating organisms and fungi used in organics.... coco choir is somewhere in between in the substrate category. more forgiving than hydro, less forgiving than soils, and organic amendments.

Except in a few minor instances; these two main strategies are wholly/totally incompatible with one another, for the most part. Nitrogen fixation thrives in low phosphorus environments utilizing AM fungi, whereas salts/hydro generally use higher phosphorus levels, tightly controlled pH, exact EC and optimized NPK Ratio's that are wholesale incompatible with many microorganisms; except in a few minor specific instances.

the incompatibility between these two major/main strategies can be very difficult for novice growers to comprehend what's occuring...


Growing pot is a lot like fishing, you can use a net... or a rod and reel. Both methods excel in various environments. An expert fisherman; master a few methods proficiently, and maybe a third; or forth...
 
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Sxs
LJFarming said:
Anthem,

First I think your pH numbers are dead on! I ran Jacks for years and was on the fence about switching to Athena after running Jacks since the day I started running coco DTW but accidentally saw a podcast about JRCROPTECH I’m only 19 days into my first run using it but truly think I’m doing better. JR will cost less than $150 for a 6 light grow also. Even Jacks was a lil more than that. Again who knows how I will finish and I’m definitely not looking to pimp JRCroptech. Just food for thought.

Peace out,

LJ
Click to expand...
You know, i run a 4 light hps grow in flower and ive never figured the cost of nutrients per light.

Pulled this on your jrcroptech
Screenshot_20230525_013618_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Franksta said:
Substrates can certainly differ but much boil down to watering frequency, air exchange capacity and drain ability..

The Major or main subdivision in growing strategy occurs along inorganic salts/hydro/aero verse nitrogen fixating organisms and fungi used in organics.... coco choir is somewhere in between in the substrate category. more forgiving than hydro, less forgiving than soils, and organic amendments.

Except in a few minor instances; these two main strategies are wholly/totally incompatible with one another, for the most part. Nitrogen fixation thrives in low phosphorus environments utilizing AM fungi, whereas salts/hydro generally use higher phosphorus levels, controlled pH, EC and NPK Ratio's that are incompatible with many microorganisms; except in a few specific instances.

the incompatibility between these two strategies can be very difficult for novice growers to master.


Growing pot is a lot like fishing, you can use a net... or a rod and reel. Both methods excel in various environments.
Click to expand...
Franksta said:
except in a few specific instances
Click to expand...
Care you elaborate , i grow in a 4 site RDWC setup where im not live or sterile, im neither where i don't add anything to the water except nutes. im curious on your thoughts on how my method can/could/will effect my npk balance
 
smoke said:
Care you elaborate , i grow in a 4 site RDWC setup where im not live or sterile, im neither where i don't add anything to the water except nutes. im curious on your thoughts on how my method can/could/will effect my npk balanceThis type of bond can occur in inorganic molecules such as water and in organic molecules like DNA and proteins.
Click to expand...


well being in-between, correct me if I'm wrong here aqua. You should try and stay away from nitrogen fixation bacteria first and foremost. Since the biggest threat to your methods pH controls, is wild fluctuations. AM fungi could technically thrive, if the phosphorus is low enough... possibly, by experienced hands.. Also, organic fraction that can help, like enzymes, or precursor that compliment salt assembly lines ratio's . Vitamin B's, plant hormones, even some basic organic acid fractions could be of benefit. The key here is don't FUBAR your pH stability.

I think some of these higher end premade solutions have formulated some of these fractions, but not sure on the exact specifics, I've been trying to learn how to make my solutions from scratch; but again; I'm also into fermentation.


I have other ideas, just don't want to throw out experimental ideas on this thread, difficult subject just as it stands; will simply create more confusion.

In chemistry, a hydrogen bond (or H-bond) is a primarily electrostatic force of attraction between a hydrogen (H) atom which is covalently bound to a more electronegative "donor" atom or group (Dn), and another electronegative atom bearing a lone pair of electrons—the hydrogen bond acceptor (Ac) Hydrogen bonds can be intermolecular (occurring between separate molecules) or intramolecular (occurring among parts of the same molecule). The energy of a hydrogen bond depends on the geometry This type of bond can occur in inorganic molecules such as water and in organic molecules like DNA and proteins.
 
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Franksta said:
well being in-between, correct me if I'm wrong here aqua. You should try and stay away from nitrogen fixation bacteria first and foremost. Since the biggest threat to your methods pH controls, is wild fluctuations. AM fungi could technically thrive, if the phosphorus is low enough... possibly, by experienced hands.. Also, organic fraction that can help, like enzymes, or precursor that compliment salt assembly lines ratio's . Vitamin B's, plant hormones, even some basic organic acid fractions could be of benefit. The key here is don't FUBAR your pH stability.

I think some of these higher end premade solutions have formulated some of these fractions, but not sure on the exact specifics, I've been trying to learn how to make my solutions from scratch; but again; I'm also into fermentation.


I have other ideas, just don't want to throw out experimental ideas on this thread, difficult subject just as it stands; will simply create more confusion.

In chemistry, a hydrogen bond (or H-bond) is a primarily electrostatic force of attraction between a hydrogen (H) atom which is covalently bound to a more electronegative "donor" atom or group (Dn), and another electronegative atom bearing a lone pair of electrons—the hydrogen bond acceptor (Ac) Hydrogen bonds can be intermolecular (occurring between separate molecules) or intramolecular (occurring among parts of the same molecule). The energy of a hydrogen bond depends on the geometry This type of bond can occur in inorganic molecules such as water and in organic molecules like DNA and proteins.
Click to expand...
Quote " You should try and stay away from nitrogen fixation bacteria first and foremost. Since the biggest threat to your methods pH controls, is wild fluctuations. "

ph fluctuations are indeed something i see in my system regularly and reading what you said about staying away from nitrogen fixation bacteria makes me think the bacteria im growing naturally in my system is the "good " bacteria because running out of nitrogen early Is something i see more often than not while usually chasing a falling ph.

I feed GH 3part
 
smoke said:
Quote " You should try and stay away from nitrogen fixation bacteria first and foremost. Since the biggest threat to your methods pH controls, is wild fluctuations. "

ph fluctuations are indeed something i see in my system regularly and reading what you said about staying away from nitrogen fixation bacteria makes me think the bacteria im growing naturally in my system is the "good " bacteria because running out of nitrogen early Is something i see more often than not while usually chasing a falling ph.

I feed GH 3part
Click to expand...
Nitrogen fixing bacteria pull nitrogen from the atmosphere and turn into usable nitrogen for the plants.

I dont feel there is any harm to using them so long as like all bacteria… population is kept in check. The boom and bust of populations can play havoc with ph due to decay and respiration. The PH issues it creates is from the carbonic acid associated with those 2 things.

The bacteria that consumes nitrogen is actually anaerobic so we dont see these in our systems
 
smoke said:
Sxs

You know, i run a 4 light hps grow in flower and ive never figured the cost of nutrients per light.

Pulled this on your jrcroptech
View attachment 4135
Click to expand...
They sell Veg and Flower and recommend yara CalNit and Calcium Chloride. A 50# bag of CalNit is $30 vs. $80 for 25# of Jacks CalNit. Their flower and veg bags are about $100 each for 25#
 
LJFarming said:
Anthem,

First I think your pH numbers are dead on! I ran Jacks for years and was on the fence about switching to Athena after running Jacks since the day I started running coco DTW but accidentally saw a podcast about JRCROPTECH I’m only 19 days into my first run using it but truly think I’m doing better. JR will cost less than $150 for a 6 light grow also. Even Jacks was a lil more than that. Again who knows how I will finish and I’m definitely not looking to pimp JRCroptech. Just food for thought.

Peace out,

LJ
Click to expand...
I was no aware of JR Croptech. I have been moving away from Jacks, I have tried it a few different ways but it just will not work as well at Athena. There is a company Custom Hydroponics, he had masterblend make a custom blend that is the same as Athena Flower 0-12-24. I am running that now. Jacks produces a really nice quality bud but it just does not come close to Athena in weights. I am hoping to over come the everything smells the same problem with Athena. I have used both for several years.
I took a look at JR Croptech and I have tried using Pure Cal in the past over Calcium Nitrate. I am not so sure that taking the ammonia out of the Calcium Nitrate is such a good idea for this plant.
 
Tips on how to grow in soil
Ive moved from coco to soil. .
More info out there on coco i have found


Maybe talk about calmag. Dont no if anyone watches welcome to the grow tent on youtube. But he says calmag can br stopped end of week 3. Not needed after stretch. .

Im not sure about that one.

Flushing topic for newbies maybe.
Big debate on this one. As sone flush some dont. Some taper nutes down. .
Maybe only need to flush if over fertilised
 
brettdawg said:
Tips on how to grow in soil
Ive moved from coco to soil. .
More info out there on coco i have found


Maybe talk about calmag. Dont no if anyone watches welcome to the grow tent on youtube. But he says calmag can br stopped end of week 3. Not needed after stretch. .

Im not sure about that one.

Flushing topic for newbies maybe.
Big debate on this one. As sone flush some dont. Some taper nutes down. .
Maybe only need to flush if over fertilised
Click to expand...
Good suggestions there, so much room for bro-science.
 
smoke said:
Quote " You should try and stay away from nitrogen fixation bacteria first and foremost. Since the biggest threat to your methods pH controls, is wild fluctuations. "

ph fluctuations are indeed something i see in my system regularly and reading what you said about staying away from nitrogen fixation bacteria makes me think the bacteria im growing naturally in my system is the "good " bacteria because running out of nitrogen early Is something i see more often than not while usually chasing a falling ph.

I feed GH 3part
Click to expand...
Carbonic acid transfers a hydrogen ion to the lone pair on the nitrogen of the ammonia and forms an ammonium ion. NH4+

most certainly a fairly fast reaction that's going to alter pH level depending on concentration of reactants

acidnh3.gif
 
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