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Grow 4 life, Mr.G grow and show.

pk1 said:
OG, you know it's better if the controller box is separated from the light bars.
Click to expand...
Growing in the cool season, the driver heat is important to maintain temps, currently running it at 30% 30” above the plants and it’s fairly cool to the touch.
My oil filled space heater needs to run regardless.
Plants putting on their second set of leaves this morning. Cut back to 18/6 on the timer last night to give them some rest.
 
Grabbed a chair..your coco seems to have more fibre in it compared to my bagged pre buffered coco..I’d like to use more fibre but can’t seem to find it…what brand you running bud..
 
Mr.GreenthumbOG said:
Growing in the cool season, the driver heat is important to maintain temps, currently running it at 30% 30” above the plants and it’s fairly cool to the touch.
My oil filled space heater needs to run regardless.
Plants putting on their second set of leaves this morning. Cut back to 18/6 on the timer last night to give them some rest.
Click to expand...
I assume you use your heater to keep your environment in range. Your oil heater puts out radiant heat and cools down at a rate in accordance to the ambient temperatures in the tent. How do you control temp if the radiant heat goes beyond your target range? Does your space naturally maintain low temps and your heater and light output during lights on keep your temps in range? Same with lights off.

I'm looking into trying to maintain a more consistent temp between lights on and off. Where I'm at, lights on temps are what they are but lights off temps will drop around 8* as the differential. I want to try and keep day/night temps as close as possible to reduce internodal stretch.

Been looking at some of the 1500 btu ceramic style heaters w/ thermostat to regulate tent temp. Any reason you went with an oil filled as opposed to a ceramic style heater? I'm growing in a 5 x 5. I calculate how many btu's I'll need to heat the space by figuring out the cubic feet of the space and multiplying it by 6 for btu's or .0606 for kW. This formulation should give me the minimum amount of btu's/kW's I'll need to effectively heat the space. In my case the space I need to heat is 6.5' x 5' x 5' or 162.5 cu/ft. 162.5 x 6 = 975 btu.
 
Rootsruler said:
I assume you use your heater to keep your environment in range. Your oil heater puts out radiant heat and cools down at a rate in accordance to the ambient temperatures in the tent. How do you control temp if the radiant heat goes beyond your target range? Does your space naturally maintain low temps and your heater and light output during lights on keep your temps in range? Same with lights off.

I'm looking into trying to maintain a more consistent temp between lights on and off. Where I'm at, lights on temps are what they are but lights off temps will drop around 8* as the differential. I want to try and keep day/night temps as close as possible to reduce internodal stretch.

Been looking at some of the 1500 btu ceramic style heaters w/ thermostat to regulate tent temp. Any reason you went with an oil filled as opposed to a ceramic style heater? I'm growing in a 5 x 5. I calculate how many btu's I'll need to heat the space by figuring out the cubic feet of the space and multiplying it by 6 for btu's or .0606 for kW. This formulation should give me the minimum amount of btu's/kW's I'll need to effectively heat the space. In my case the space I need to heat is 6.5' x 5' x 5' or 162.5 cu/ft. 162.5 x 6 = 975 btu.
Click to expand...
That is a really low figure. One ton of AC is 12,000 BTUs
 
Anthem275 said:
Basic rule of thumb
One BTU will raise temperature 1 degree per 55 cubic feet, so divide by 55
Click to expand...
So the calculation is 975 cu/ft / 55 = 17btu......doesn't sound right......

The 1500 watt ceramic heater I'm looking at can put out 5,100 btu an hour.
 
Anthem275 said:
Go stick 17 candles in your tent shut off the exhaust and test it. Should raise the temperature by 1 degree
Click to expand...
ok....so going off your calculation and my day/night temp swings 17btu x 8 = 136 btu of heating power to equalize to day temps? I'm assuming air circulation has a part here that I should factor in?

Will this unit suffice?

 
Mad Max said:
Grabbed a chair..your coco seems to have more fibre in it compared to my bagged pre buffered coco..I’d like to use more fibre but can’t seem to find it…what brand you running bud..
Click to expand...
Canna coco, it’s the only kind of coco I run.
Rootsruler said:
I assume you use your heater to keep your environment in range. Your oil heater puts out radiant heat and cools down at a rate in accordance to the ambient temperatures in the tent. How do you control temp if the radiant heat goes beyond your target range? Does your space naturally maintain low temps and your heater and light output during lights on keep your temps in range? Same with lights off.
Click to expand...

The heater just keeps the lung room at the temperature I set it at, it’s plugged into an inkbird controller, when temps get above set points, the fresh air intake kicks on and pulls cold air from and outside vent. Temps hold exactly where I set them.
 
Anthem275 said:
Go stick 17 candles in your tent shut off the exhaust and test it. Should raise the temperature by 1 degree
Click to expand...
The above is wrong that is for light measurements.
you are better off doing something like OG is suggesting. Trying to control 162.5 cubic feet is going to be near impossible because it is a microclimate.
 
Also to circulate the air, I have an oversized canfan in the tent to filter and push the air from the tent back into the lung room, to help heat the space, fan filter in the lung room vents outside to cool.
 
Anthem275 said:
The above is wrong that is for light measurements.
you are better off doing something like OG is suggesting. Trying to control 162.5 cubic feet is going to be near impossible because it is a microclimate.
Click to expand...
If you want to control just the tent you would need a heat source close to what you want to raise the temperature by and have an exhaust fan that kicks on to exhaust out when the temperature in the tent gets too high. But as you do this you are also limiting the CO2 available to the plant.
 
Mr.GreenthumbOG said:
Also to circulate the air, I have an oversized canfan in the tent to filter and push the air from the tent back into the lung room, to help heat the space, fan filter in the lung room vents outside to cool.
Click to expand...
There is much more to the calculations than just adding for BTUs. All the fans moving air also create heat by friction.
 
Anthem275 said:
There is much more to the calculations than just adding for BTUs. All the fans moving air also create heat by friction.
Click to expand...
It’s true, that’s why digital controllers make it easy, no maths required. It’s always best to run equipment that’s rated for at least double the size area. Go big.
 
Anthem275 said:
The above is wrong that is for light measurements.
you are better off doing something like OG is suggesting. Trying to control 162.5 cubic feet is going to be near impossible because it is a microclimate.
Click to expand...
The ACI exhaust fan can regulate over heat through parameter settings so it would regulate much like OG's setup. My lung room stays cooler than the tent on lights on but because the lung room temp is reliant on the whole house HVAC lights off temps are harder to stabilize due to the cooling cycling of the unit. A small heater with thermostat could keep temp variance closer but I understand what you mean in terms of the microclimate. and controlling it.

I may just try by buying the small heater I posted previously. It has a built in thermostat so it can also independently control heat output. I was under the impression I was going to need more heat to stabilize temp but it seems you don't need so much. Thanks.
 
Rootsruler said:
So the calculation is 975 cu/ft / 55 = 17btu......doesn't sound right......

The 1500 watt ceramic heater I'm looking at can put out 5,100 btu an hour.
Click to expand...
I was looking over my calculation and realized my mistake.

It's supposed to be 162.5/55 not 975. 975 is the erroneously calculated btu not cu/ft.

Going off Anthems calculations I need a heat source that puts out 3 btu/hr to raise tent temp 1 degree generally. 162.5/55=2.95btu. If I multiply that by the temp differential I'm trying to close which is 8 that would mean I need a heat source that puts out at least 24btu for me to generally raise tent temp 8* in an hour.

Is this correct?
 
GrumpAzz said:
Just kind of depends on your needs. Some folks appreciate the added heat in the grow space. I pulled mine out of the tent but my heater ended up running a lot throughout my first grow.
Click to expand...
Mr.GreenthumbOG said:
Growing in the cool season, the driver heat is important to maintain temps, currently running it at 30% 30” above the plants and it’s fairly cool to the touch.
My oil filled space heater needs to run regardless.
Plants putting on their second set of leaves this morning. Cut back to 18/6 on the timer last night to give them some rest.
Click to expand...
i understand the temp working to your favor, but what it also does is the heat that dissipates into the bars which the LEDs are using to cool down. So, you are essentially taking that away which shortens the life of the led's resulting in burning or Sauder points melting.

Seedlings look fabulous tho!!
 
pk1 said:
i understand the temp working to your favor, but what it also does is the heat that dissipates into the bars which the LEDs are using to cool down. So, you are essentially taking that away which shortens the life of the led's resulting in burning or Sauder points melting.

Seedlings look fabulous tho!!
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure the LED's with the added heat are still well within operating temp so I'm not sure how much degradation acceleration you would get.
 
pk1 said:
@Mr.GreenthumbOG show the pic how fast it can degrade 😂 😂
Click to expand...
I showed that pic on page 2, not sure whether the light bars got damaged in shipping, or factory defect. Nothing to do with the driver cooking the bar.🤣
I run a large hurricane fan at the top of the tent for circulation, cools the drivers a fair bit, and moves the hot air. Heat is good in a cool climate grow.
Spiderfarmer sending replacements, should arrive when it’s needed
 
I don’t like those ceramic heaters,they just throw out too much heat for my room and glow inside them.the oil finned heaters work the best.I’m same use the inkbird to control the heat,kicking on the 720 watt exhaust fan every minute.-1.20.I’d b f$&ked without it.it works in harmony with the rh..temp gets reached before rh gets too high..they have 3 settings 350-450-1000 so if the rh is getting a little high I’ll switch it up to 450w.
 
Mad Max said:
I don’t like those ceramic heaters,they just throw out too much heat for my room and glow inside them.the oil finned heaters work the best.I’m same use the inkbird to control the heat,kicking on the 720 watt exhaust fan every minute.-1.20.I’d b f$&ked without it.it works in harmony with the rh..temp gets reached before rh gets too high..they have 3 settings 350-450-1000 so if the rh is getting a little high I’ll switch it up to 450w.
Click to expand...
I hear ya but my thinking is once the oil reaches temperature it will continue putting out heat and takes a while for it to drop temp versus a ceramic that'll stop adding heat the moment it turns off. I ordered a small ceramic since I don't need much heat to stabilize the tent temp lights off. Bought the one I posted earlier. Figured for $20 I can always put it in the bathroom if it doesn't do what I need. We'll see how she does.
 
mine is going 24/7.extraction fan takes out the heat,temp drops under the temp setting I have selected. 1min - 20secs later temp is back up and the cycle continues.so I’m always getting clean fresh air every minute and that’s what we need to do 😃.I have been running the finned heater for a year or so now and works very well.😁
 
Mad Max said:
mine is going 24/7.extraction fan takes out the heat,temp drops under the temp setting I have selected. 1min - 20secs later temp is back up and the cycle continues.so I’m always getting clean fresh air every minute and that’s what we need to do 😃.I have been running the finned heater for a year or so now and works very well.😁
Click to expand...
I have an oil filled heater already so I'll keep it on deck if the ceramic doesn't work out.
 
Just check to see if inside the heater glows red..my ceramic does that.spose it won’t matter if you don’t use it lights off.
 
QUOTE="Mr.GreenthumbOG, post: 21727, member: 73"]
I wanted to start my first thread on here, a place to give updates on what I’ve got growing on,
No cannabis on the go currently, but plan to pop some @dragonsflamegenetics tester beans in September.
I have been keeping Busy with my yard/garden/sanctuary/prison. Always have to be growing something
Also want a place to photo dump a few that I pulled from the place that doesn’t deserve to be named.
View attachment 10495

Veg Garden is exploding with growth playing with intercropping carrots/tomatoes lettuce/corn etc.

View attachment 10506View attachment 10507View attachment 10508View attachment 10509

It just feels right to grow plants
pk1 said:
i understand the temp working to your favor, but what it also does is the heat that dissipates into the bars which the LEDs are using to cool down. So, you are essentially taking that away which shortens the life of the led's resulting in burning or Sauder points melting.

Seedlings look fabulous tho!!
Click to expand...


Good point.
 
Mr.GreenthumbOG said:
I do gotta ask. Wtf is a quantum yield engineer?
Click to expand...
Quantum yield (Φ) is defined as the ratio of the number of photons emitted to the number of photons absorbed.


pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Quantum yield variation across the three pathways of photosynthesis: not yet out of the dark - PubMed

The convergent quantum yield hypothesis (CQY) assumes that thermodynamics and natural selection jointly limit variation in the maximum energetic efficiency of photosynthesis in low light under otherwise specified conditions (e.g. temperature and CO(2) concentration). A literature survey of...
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

www.frontiersin.org

Frontiers | Substituting Far-Red for Traditionally Defined Photosynthetic Photons Results in Equal Canopy Quantum Yield for CO2 Fixation and Increased Photon Capture During Long-Term Studies: Implications for Re-Defining PAR

Far-red photons regulate shade avoidance responses and can have powerful effects on plant morphology and radiation capture. Recent studies have shown that fa...
www.frontiersin.org www.frontiersin.org

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...QgAN6BAgOEAE&usg=AOvVaw0Nhpz1gOOpH7yhL83CC3aK - PDF
 
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