What's new

Grow 4 life, Mr.G grow and show.

GrumpAzz said:
Did they change up the SE5000? Mine's all black and orange aside from the aluminum bar housings.
Click to expand...
It’s silver, orange and black. Has the spiderfarmer branded driver.
I have an original SE5000 as well that is just silver with a Sosa driver and moved that one over till I can get this other light dealt with.IMG_3607.jpeg
 
Happy little trees, first time I’ve had 100% germ rate, environment on point. Good start, but so so far to go.
Heat mats off, lights on 24hrs since drop, cut back to 20hrs after the first week.
IMG_3613.pngIMG_3612.png
 
I have Japanese Maples. Great trees~!

That's nice you are playing music for your plants with that orange radio~!
Are you hoping to catch them dancing with the cam?
:LOL:
 
pk1 said:
OG, you know it's better if the controller box is separated from the light bars.
Click to expand...
Growing in the cool season, the driver heat is important to maintain temps, currently running it at 30% 30” above the plants and it’s fairly cool to the touch.
My oil filled space heater needs to run regardless.
Plants putting on their second set of leaves this morning. Cut back to 18/6 on the timer last night to give them some rest.
 
Grabbed a chair..your coco seems to have more fibre in it compared to my bagged pre buffered coco..I’d like to use more fibre but can’t seem to find it…what brand you running bud..
 
Mr.GreenthumbOG said:
Growing in the cool season, the driver heat is important to maintain temps, currently running it at 30% 30” above the plants and it’s fairly cool to the touch.
My oil filled space heater needs to run regardless.
Plants putting on their second set of leaves this morning. Cut back to 18/6 on the timer last night to give them some rest.
Click to expand...
I assume you use your heater to keep your environment in range. Your oil heater puts out radiant heat and cools down at a rate in accordance to the ambient temperatures in the tent. How do you control temp if the radiant heat goes beyond your target range? Does your space naturally maintain low temps and your heater and light output during lights on keep your temps in range? Same with lights off.

I'm looking into trying to maintain a more consistent temp between lights on and off. Where I'm at, lights on temps are what they are but lights off temps will drop around 8* as the differential. I want to try and keep day/night temps as close as possible to reduce internodal stretch.

Been looking at some of the 1500 btu ceramic style heaters w/ thermostat to regulate tent temp. Any reason you went with an oil filled as opposed to a ceramic style heater? I'm growing in a 5 x 5. I calculate how many btu's I'll need to heat the space by figuring out the cubic feet of the space and multiplying it by 6 for btu's or .0606 for kW. This formulation should give me the minimum amount of btu's/kW's I'll need to effectively heat the space. In my case the space I need to heat is 6.5' x 5' x 5' or 162.5 cu/ft. 162.5 x 6 = 975 btu.
 
Rootsruler said:
I assume you use your heater to keep your environment in range. Your oil heater puts out radiant heat and cools down at a rate in accordance to the ambient temperatures in the tent. How do you control temp if the radiant heat goes beyond your target range? Does your space naturally maintain low temps and your heater and light output during lights on keep your temps in range? Same with lights off.

I'm looking into trying to maintain a more consistent temp between lights on and off. Where I'm at, lights on temps are what they are but lights off temps will drop around 8* as the differential. I want to try and keep day/night temps as close as possible to reduce internodal stretch.

Been looking at some of the 1500 btu ceramic style heaters w/ thermostat to regulate tent temp. Any reason you went with an oil filled as opposed to a ceramic style heater? I'm growing in a 5 x 5. I calculate how many btu's I'll need to heat the space by figuring out the cubic feet of the space and multiplying it by 6 for btu's or .0606 for kW. This formulation should give me the minimum amount of btu's/kW's I'll need to effectively heat the space. In my case the space I need to heat is 6.5' x 5' x 5' or 162.5 cu/ft. 162.5 x 6 = 975 btu.
Click to expand...
That is a really low figure. One ton of AC is 12,000 BTUs
 
Anthem275 said:
Basic rule of thumb
One BTU will raise temperature 1 degree per 55 cubic feet, so divide by 55
Click to expand...
So the calculation is 975 cu/ft / 55 = 17btu......doesn't sound right......

The 1500 watt ceramic heater I'm looking at can put out 5,100 btu an hour.
 
Anthem275 said:
Go stick 17 candles in your tent shut off the exhaust and test it. Should raise the temperature by 1 degree
Click to expand...
ok....so going off your calculation and my day/night temp swings 17btu x 8 = 136 btu of heating power to equalize to day temps? I'm assuming air circulation has a part here that I should factor in?

Will this unit suffice?

 
Mad Max said:
Grabbed a chair..your coco seems to have more fibre in it compared to my bagged pre buffered coco..I’d like to use more fibre but can’t seem to find it…what brand you running bud..
Click to expand...
Canna coco, it’s the only kind of coco I run.
Rootsruler said:
I assume you use your heater to keep your environment in range. Your oil heater puts out radiant heat and cools down at a rate in accordance to the ambient temperatures in the tent. How do you control temp if the radiant heat goes beyond your target range? Does your space naturally maintain low temps and your heater and light output during lights on keep your temps in range? Same with lights off.
Click to expand...

The heater just keeps the lung room at the temperature I set it at, it’s plugged into an inkbird controller, when temps get above set points, the fresh air intake kicks on and pulls cold air from and outside vent. Temps hold exactly where I set them.
 
Anthem275 said:
Go stick 17 candles in your tent shut off the exhaust and test it. Should raise the temperature by 1 degree
Click to expand...
The above is wrong that is for light measurements.
you are better off doing something like OG is suggesting. Trying to control 162.5 cubic feet is going to be near impossible because it is a microclimate.
 
Also to circulate the air, I have an oversized canfan in the tent to filter and push the air from the tent back into the lung room, to help heat the space, fan filter in the lung room vents outside to cool.
 
Anthem275 said:
The above is wrong that is for light measurements.
you are better off doing something like OG is suggesting. Trying to control 162.5 cubic feet is going to be near impossible because it is a microclimate.
Click to expand...
If you want to control just the tent you would need a heat source close to what you want to raise the temperature by and have an exhaust fan that kicks on to exhaust out when the temperature in the tent gets too high. But as you do this you are also limiting the CO2 available to the plant.
 
Mr.GreenthumbOG said:
Also to circulate the air, I have an oversized canfan in the tent to filter and push the air from the tent back into the lung room, to help heat the space, fan filter in the lung room vents outside to cool.
Click to expand...
There is much more to the calculations than just adding for BTUs. All the fans moving air also create heat by friction.
 
Anthem275 said:
There is much more to the calculations than just adding for BTUs. All the fans moving air also create heat by friction.
Click to expand...
It’s true, that’s why digital controllers make it easy, no maths required. It’s always best to run equipment that’s rated for at least double the size area. Go big.
 
Anthem275 said:
The above is wrong that is for light measurements.
you are better off doing something like OG is suggesting. Trying to control 162.5 cubic feet is going to be near impossible because it is a microclimate.
Click to expand...
The ACI exhaust fan can regulate over heat through parameter settings so it would regulate much like OG's setup. My lung room stays cooler than the tent on lights on but because the lung room temp is reliant on the whole house HVAC lights off temps are harder to stabilize due to the cooling cycling of the unit. A small heater with thermostat could keep temp variance closer but I understand what you mean in terms of the microclimate. and controlling it.

I may just try by buying the small heater I posted previously. It has a built in thermostat so it can also independently control heat output. I was under the impression I was going to need more heat to stabilize temp but it seems you don't need so much. Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom