Mythbusters

[Moshmen]

Never heard that one... doesn't make logical sense though, the genetics can do what they can do regardless of how big the plant is first right?

Mmmmm big and mature are two different things , this is interesting to me , I personally don’t flower young plants no alternating nodes - no flower for me ? Right or wrong?

 

[Moshmen]

I would think a plant allowed to mature without being forced would be stronger in many ways.
So I would agree without proof that longer veg is better.
Maybe just me.
I cringe when I see people flip their 2 week old plants and the like.
What is too young? I think veg should be 8 weeks minimum.

I’d most of my plants mature around then ? Hard to do a side by side on that one !

 

[TSD]

Mmmmm big and mature are two different things , this is interesting to me , I personally don’t flower young plants no alternating nodes - no flower for me ? Right or wrong?

Right, I thought that was common sense lol, thought he meant like extra long veg makes more potent plants.

 

[Rootsruler]

Some people argue that plants grown with a longer veg are more potent than the same plant flowered with a short or no veg. I'm still waiting for someone to prove it to me.

Never heard that one... doesn't make logical sense though, the genetics can do what they can do regardless of how big the plant is first right?

I can see how that might make sense. Cannabis is a perennial plant so it has it's stages just like humans. I would think that a young plants are going to have higher growth hormones running through them at this time and as they get older and conditions start to change their hormonal structure changes to accommodate the coming flowers.

 

[moe.red]

If I go for 8 weeks of veg I’ll be in trouble with height. My root ball would be massive.

 

[moe.red]

Another thought I have in regards to side lighting is spectrum. What would be the effects of installing 4 separate light bars, in addition to the full spectrum SCL's, that are far red(700 - 750nm) to mimic sunrise and sunset? You could run those on a 14/10 flower schedule and reserve the first and last hour for just far red while still giving your girls their 12 hours. Once the overhead and SCL's come on the far reds turn off. On hour 13 overheads and SCL's turn off and far rights turn on for the last hour then lights off.

I can do this with my overhead lights. Not sure what the impact under the canopy would be.

 

[moe.red]

Vertical lighting, i was toying with the idea of hanging a 1000 wt in the middle of my 4 plants.

Nightlight on the other forum did some testing with hanging HPS from pendants inside the canopy. I don’t recall the end result other than I don’t think he did it again.

 

[moe.red]

Some grow 12/12 right from seed.
I am not that versed or interested in rushing mother nature.
I do like trying to help her though.

I would never have thought to do that.

I need to think that thru a minute. Why?

 

[Moshmen]

If I go for 8 weeks of veg I’ll be in trouble with height. My root ball would be massive.

I would never have thought to do that.

I need to think that thru a minute. Why?

In ten weeks ya got weed faster than most autos

 

[Moshmen]

I keep some in solos for a month or 2 but I’m holding back not rushing em thru like you guys mmmmmm Athens convinced me I’m grabbing clones finishing out and starting automated and fresh with wool though -sorry been smokin . Lol

 

[Rootsruler]

I can do this with my overhead lights. Not sure what the impact under the canopy would be.

I'm thinking moreso for the middle and lower part of the canopy that gets shade more than anything else. What would be even better is if you could control the far reds separately from the rest of the diodes in full spectrum SCL. Then you wouldn't need the extra far red SCL. Just program the far reds to turn on first for an hour then the rest of the SCL and overheads turn on.

I'm trying to get fat flowers from net level up.

 

[ZombieRider]

The issue with TC for most growers is the sterile workspace requirements. Most folks don't have access to a laminar flow hood. Other than that, the rest is not bad.

There are some little kits out there, have not tried them. I use a rather large setup made for mushrooms.

Sup! So I made an airtight box for mycology from this tutorial (

) would that work in lieu of a laminar hood? I dont mind setting up something larger for mycology and tissue culture. I just want to make tissue cultures of my keepers so I dont have to take care of mom's all the time. Athena has made an expensive but cool tissue culture "machine" https://www.athenaag.com/culture-kit?quantity=1 " What do you think of it?

Also in response to others discussion about flipping babies, do you wait for alternating nodes to flip? Been reading up on this and the conscensus is that flipping plants before sexual maturity results in less potent/flavorful bud? I assume the pheno-hunters dont veg for long, so I wonder when the ideal time to flip is to show traits without wasting time in veg.
Anyway hope ya have a good weekend brotha! Im here smoking on some of my Double Fish breath, Velvet Moon and Banana Krumble all mixed into one joint, I call it "The week-ender" lmao.

 

[ZombieRider]

I'm thinking moreso for the middle and lower part of the canopy that gets shade more than anything else. What would be even better is if you could control the far reds separately from the rest of the diodes in full spectrum SCL. Then you wouldn't need the extra far red SCL. Just program the far reds to turn on first for an hour then the rest of the SCL and overheads turn on.

I'm trying to get fat flowers from net level up.

What are you using to give the ladies that far-red? There are a few supplemental light bars around, might pick one up and try it out. Pretty sure most led's now a days have some far reds, though at different values Im sure.

 

[moe.red]

Sup! So I made an airtight box for mycology from this tutorial (

) would that work in lieu of a laminar hood? I dont mind setting up something larger for mycology and tissue culture. I just want to make tissue cultures of my keepers so I dont have to take care of mom's all the time. Athena has made an expensive but cool tissue culture "machine" https://www.athenaag.com/culture-kit?quantity=1 " What do you think of it?

Also in response to others discussion about flipping babies, do you wait for alternating nodes to flip? Been reading up on this and the conscensus is that flipping plants before sexual maturity results in less potent/flavorful bud? I assume the pheno-hunters dont veg for long, so I wonder when the ideal time to flip is to show traits without wasting time in veg.
Anyway hope ya have a good weekend brotha! Im here smoking on some of my Double Fish breath, Velvet Moon and Banana Krumble all mixed into one joint, I call it "The week-ender" lmao.

Yes if you can do mycology you can do tc.

I flip based on where I want the plant size to be at the end. It’s not a node thing for me it’s a morphology thing. Also days is not a good metric since aeroponics and dirt grow at different rates. As do cultivars.

Your training method also plays a role in veg times. Scrogging a single plant in a 4x4 I typically veg longer.

I hope your day is as fun as I imagine it is starting.

 

[moe.red]

What are you using to give the ladies that far-red? There are a few supplemental light bars around, might pick one up and try it out. Pretty sure most led's now a days have some far reds, though at different values Im sure.

I can lend you a couple of far red sticks if you want to try. 4’ 30 watts x2.

 

[ZombieRider]

Yes if you can do mycology you can do tc.

I flip based on where I want the plant size to be at the end. It’s not a node thing for me it’s a morphology thing. Also days is not a good metric since aeroponics and dirt grow at different rates. As do cultivars.

Your training method also plays a role in veg times. Scrogging a single plant in a 4x4 I typically veg longer.

I hope your day is as fun as I imagine it is starting.

Sweetness, I will for sure be messing with TC then. More room and one can rid the plant of viruses like HLV I think as well.
And gotcha, one doesn't need to wait until the plant reaches sexual maturity to flip, just depends on how much yield you want. That being the case, one could pheno hunt pretty quickly if they just flipped after the seeds pop.

I can lend you a couple of far red sticks if you want to try. 4’ 30 watts x2.

Heck yeah, I would love to try out those far-red sticks. Im literally about to flip next couple of days, do you just run more far red at the end of flower or from the flip?

 

[moe.red]

Sweetness, I will for sure be messing with TC then. More room and one can rid the plant of viruses like HLV I think as well.
And gotcha, one doesn't need to wait until the plant reaches sexual maturity to flip, just depends on how much yield you want. That being the case, one could pheno hunt pretty quickly if they just flipped after the seeds pop.

Heck yeah, I would love to try out those far-red sticks. Im literally about to flip next couple of days, do you just run more far red at the end of flower or from the flip?

I can get these sent out on Monday, PM me

Far red has a few uses. What are you looking for? There are different purposes based on your desired result.

Also the ratio of R/FR is important. So if you start a thread with all the details like the lights you use with spectrum charts and PPFD maps if you can find one (preferably not from the vendor) I'll try to walk you thru it. Migro is a good source.

Far red can signal a shade response and make the plant grow horizontally. Helps when scrogging sometimes. But you need to start that early in veg. You can use the Emmerson Effect to increase photosynthesis. That one to me is the hardest to manage.

Also,

Each phytochrome molecule has two states called isoforms. Left in the dark for several hours, it reverts to a state called Pr, where it strongly absorbs red light (FIG. 2). If a phytochrome molecule in this state absorbs a red photon, it changes to its Pfr state, where it absorbs far-red radiation. If the molecule absorbs a far-red photon, it reverts to its Pr state. When in its Pfr state, the molecule is biologically active and may interact with the plant’s molecular machinery. Given this, a phytochrome can be seen as a reversible biological switch that can enable or inhibit various plant functions. One such important function is the detection of neighboring plants.

That Pr/Pfr stuff is hormonal, the way the plant signals sleep mode or wake mode. Using the far red for 30 minutes prior to and 30 minutes after your lights go out, you can essentially put the plant to sleep faster. This could help you to run a different schedule (longer day) which allows for higher DLI. Or you could turn the lights down a little, run an extra hour, and get the same result as 12/12 but less light intensity, which can help plants that are stressed with too many photons for their available support systems to process.

I could do on for hours on this crap, I think I'll stop here and live vicariously thru you.

 

[Pipecarver]

I can get these sent out on Monday, PM me

Far red has a few uses. What are you looking for? There are different purposes based on your desired result.

Also the ratio of R/FR is important. So if you start a thread with all the details like the lights you use with spectrum charts and PPFD maps if you can find one (preferably not from the vendor) I'll try to walk you thru it. Migro is a good source.

Far red can signal a shade response and make the plant grow horizontally. Helps when scrogging sometimes. But you need to start that early in veg. You can use the Emmerson Effect to increase photosynthesis. That one to me is the hardest to manage.

Also,

Each phytochrome molecule has two states called isoforms. Left in the dark for several hours, it reverts to a state called Pr, where it strongly absorbs red light (FIG. 2). If a phytochrome molecule in this state absorbs a red photon, it changes to its Pfr state, where it absorbs far-red radiation. If the molecule absorbs a far-red photon, it reverts to its Pr state. When in its Pfr state, the molecule is biologically active and may interact with the plant’s molecular machinery. Given this, a phytochrome can be seen as a reversible biological switch that can enable or inhibit various plant functions. One such important function is the detection of neighboring plants.

That Pr/Pfr stuff is hormonal, the way the plant signals sleep mode or wake mode. Using the far red for 30 minutes prior to and 30 minutes after your lights go out, you can essentially put the plant to sleep faster. This could help you to run a different schedule (longer day) which allows for higher DLI. Or you could turn the lights down a little, run an extra hour, and get the same result as 12/12 but less light intensity, which can help plants that are stressed with too many photons for their available support systems to process.

I could do on for hours on this crap, I think I'll stop here and live vicariously thru you.

I tried to have a mock dusk and dawn on this grow. I've 4 - 4ft red led strip lights and I strung 3 around the sides and back. I timed it for 10 min before lights out to 10 min after lights out. Same in the morning at lights on red first for 10 min then off 10 min after lights on. I did that for 1 month hoping to see an increase in bud growth......nothing........ and I was starting to wonder if it was stalling them a bit so I shut them off......

I still have them up in my 5x5 if you find a good use for them please let me know..... they're just dust catchers now

 

[Rootsruler]

What are you using to give the ladies that far-red? There are a few supplemental light bars around, might pick one up and try it out. Pretty sure most led's now a days have some far reds, though at different values Im sure.

Right now I'm relying on the lights I have that have far red in them.

I'm thinking far red as side lighting to try and mimic sunrise and sunset light color spectrum. Mounting them to the net bars or side of the tent at canopy level would also mimic the angle the light energy is hitting the leaves at. Not sure if that makes a difference but if Mama Nature does it then it must have some value.

 

[Bandit420]

I tried to have a mock dusk and dawn on this grow. I've 4 - 4ft red led strip lights and I strung 3 around the sides and back. I timed it for 10 min before lights out to 10 min after lights out. Same in the morning at lights on red first for 10 min then off 10 min after lights on. I did that for 1 month hoping to see an increase in bud growth......nothing........ and I was starting to wonder if it was stalling them a bit so I shut them off......

I still have them up in my 5x5 if you find a good use for them please let me know..... they're just dust catchers now

I have a dusk & dawn feature too. I have it set for 10 minutes. Not sure how long I can make it since I never really looked and 10 minutes seemed ideal I suppose.
I still don't know it's a good or bad thing or even needed. Maybe a slight reduction in light stress? I was also thinking maybe it helps with wear on the light? Gradually getting up to full brilliance rather than off to full power in less than a second, IDK.
Usually takes my plants an hour or so after lights on to wake up then they start to lay back down the final hour of lights on but they did that with lights I had with no sunrise/sunset feature.
I wonder if it's just a human thing where we don't like waking up to a sudden blaring alarm and prefer waking to a gradual increase in noise and light. But the more I use the dusk/dawn feature the more I think plants really don't care how they wake up indoors.

 

[moe.red]

But the more I use the dusk/dawn feature the more I think plants really don't care how they wake up indoors.

Bruce bugbee agrees with you.

Honestly the wakeup as it pertains to far red is irrelevant. It the putting to sleep that matters.

Far Red - if run at sufficient PPFD for 30 before and 30 after lights out will switch the plant hormones to sleep mode faster. This has been proven in peer reviewed studies.

I can dig up the links if you guys want, but don't confuse dusk/dawn with using Far Red to hack pFr hormones. One the plants do not care about (slow increase or decrease in PPFD at start and end of day) and one that plants do care about - using far red to flip hormones to night much faster.

 

[Pipecarver]

Bruce bugbee agrees with you.

Honestly the wakeup as it pertains to far red is irrelevant. It the putting to sleep that matters.

Far Red - if run at sufficient PPFD for 30 before and 30 after lights out will switch the plant hormones to sleep mode faster. This has been proven in peer reviewed studies.

I can dig up the links if you guys want, but don't confuse dusk/dawn with using Far Red to hack pFr hormones. One the plants do not care about (slow increase or decrease in PPFD at start and end of day) and one that plants do care about - using far red to flip hormones to night much faster.

So how do I determine how far red my red lights are. They look pink and quite bright with all 3 on. if I paint a white light red is it now a far red light? I just wonder about the red in my lights if its actually the far red I'm looking for or just red colored white light....Moe?????

 

[moe.red]

So how do I determine how far red my red lights are. They look pink and quite bright with all 3 on. if I paint a white light red is it now a far red light? I just wonder about the red in my lights if its actually the far red I'm looking for or just red colored white light....Moe?????

Far red is a spectrum. It requires specific diodes. Generally lights that have FR diodes have a separate switch or dial for just that channel.

Most lights have red diodes that fall into the par range and do not go above 700nM. Far Red - in order to do any of the cool things we talk about with far red - needs to be 730-740 range. And that hump needs to be big enough (enough diodes and wattage) so that you have a red/ far red ratio of at least 2:1. When it is just a little far red in the 5:1 area, it is not very effective.

 

[Pipecarver]

Far red is a spectrum. It requires specific diodes. Generally lights that have FR diodes have a separate switch or dial for just that channel.

Most lights have red diodes that fall into the par range and do not go above 700nM. Far Red - in order to do any of the cool things we talk about with far red - needs to be 730-740 range. And that hump needs to be big enough (enough diodes and wattage) so that you have a red/ far red ratio of at least 2:1. When it is just a little far red in the 5:1 area, it is not very effective.

I'm pretty sure the 4 crappy red light I got for $65 are not far red I just amzon'd far red light .....Ya I'm pretty sure mine are not far red.

 

[CannaGranny]

New Mythbuster Q.......

Do mothers lose vitality after a series of cuts have been taken from her? If so how long before she should be put out to pasture and flowered? Can first cuts from a new mother be used as a next generation mother for the eventual drop in vitality the original mother may experience if she does lose vitality?

I ran clones from original seeds one time for a period of seven years. This mean’s cloning from clones. I never saw any big decrease of anything. I’m sure that it matters that all the clones maintain the same health.

 

[Rootsruler]

I ran clones from original seeds one time for a period of seven years. This mean’s cloning from clones. I never saw any big decrease of anything. I’m sure that it matters that all the clones maintain the same health.

Was the mother housed indoors? I found a study that said that plants should not lose their vitality if they are kept in a clean, healthy environment and aren't flowered. Vitality degradation happens when they are attacked by pests or disease. It's supposed to change something genetically through gene mutation.

 

[CannaGranny]

Was the mother housed indoors? I found a study that said that plants should not lose their vitality if they are kept in a clean, healthy environment and aren't flowered. Vitality degradation happens when they are attacked by pests or disease. It's supposed to change something genetically through gene mutation.

Yes they were.

 

[Rootsruler]

Bruce bugbee agrees with you.

Honestly the wakeup as it pertains to far red is irrelevant. It the putting to sleep that matters.

Far Red - if run at sufficient PPFD for 30 before and 30 after lights out will switch the plant hormones to sleep mode faster. This has been proven in peer reviewed studies.

I can dig up the links if you guys want, but don't confuse dusk/dawn with using Far Red to hack pFr hormones. One the plants do not care about (slow increase or decrease in PPFD at start and end of day) and one that plants do care about - using far red to flip hormones to night much faster.

I just watched a video on this with Dr. Bugbee commenting. His summary was that plants don't need a slow ramp up. In fact, they are ready to photosynthesize within minutes of waking up. Another interesting finding was that plants are at optimal synthesis inside the first 2 hours of lights on.

Got me thinking. I usually wait a couple hours for the girls to "wake up" before I feed. Maybe feed at lights on is better when they are at optimal synthesis? My question to him would be if I do feed at lights on would the immediate synthesis be interrupted due to the injection of nutrients disrupting the balance the soil has been building after the last feeding throwing the rhizosphere out of balance and hampering uptake? IOW, does feed time affect synthesis?

Same with lights off. His finding is that there is no benefit to ramping down in regards to photosynthetic activity. His general consensus is more light, more photosynthetic activity. Ramping down will decrease that process. If we're talking about getting them into a rest state faster and the benefits of that then we are talking about a different beneficial effect but from what I understand it is minimal at best.

 

[moe.red]

I'm pretty sure the 4 crappy red light I got for $65 are not far red I just amzon'd far red light .....Ya I'm pretty sure mine are not far red.View attachment 1894

Your costs up there scare me.

 

[Pipecarver]

Your costs up there scare me.

Me too, I was looking at some Cree far red lights and the price was $35 US = $50Cdn + 15% they want $46US shipping = $70 +15% so lights that cost you $35 will cost me around $150

 

[Moshmen]

Was the mother housed indoors? I found a study that said that plants should not lose their vitality if they are kept in a clean, healthy environment and aren't flowered. Vitality degradation happens when they are attacked by pests or disease. It's supposed to change something genetically through gene mutation.

The moonglow you have is probably 10/12 clones deep , I clone then flower the mom for space reasons

 

[Rootsruler]

Then your example proves the point because that cultivar has a lot of vitality.

 

[ZombieRider]

I can get these sent out on Monday, PM me

Far red has a few uses. What are you looking for? There are different purposes based on your desired result.

Also the ratio of R/FR is important. So if you start a thread with all the details like the lights you use with spectrum charts and PPFD maps if you can find one (preferably not from the vendor) I'll try to walk you thru it. Migro is a good source.

Far red can signal a shade response and make the plant grow horizontally. Helps when scrogging sometimes. But you need to start that early in veg. You can use the Emmerson Effect to increase photosynthesis. That one to me is the hardest to manage.

Also,

Each phytochrome molecule has two states called isoforms. Left in the dark for several hours, it reverts to a state called Pr, where it strongly absorbs red light (FIG. 2). If a phytochrome molecule in this state absorbs a red photon, it changes to its Pfr state, where it absorbs far-red radiation. If the molecule absorbs a far-red photon, it reverts to its Pr state. When in its Pfr state, the molecule is biologically active and may interact with the plant’s molecular machinery. Given this, a phytochrome can be seen as a reversible biological switch that can enable or inhibit various plant functions. One such important function is the detection of neighboring plants.

That Pr/Pfr stuff is hormonal, the way the plant signals sleep mode or wake mode. Using the far red for 30 minutes prior to and 30 minutes after your lights go out, you can essentially put the plant to sleep faster. This could help you to run a different schedule (longer day) which allows for higher DLI. Or you could turn the lights down a little, run an extra hour, and get the same result as 12/12 but less light intensity, which can help plants that are stressed with too many photons for their available support systems to process.

I could do on for hours on this crap, I think I'll stop here and live vicariously thru you.

Whats up! Thanks a lot for this info. So what am I looking for with FR? Well...more terps and flavonoids! I would assume running a higher DLI would allow more terps or flavonoids? THen again wouldn't that be entering CO2 territory with a DLI higher than say 45? So my main goal with experimenting with different wavelengths currently is for that flavor and smell in the bud, but my environment and DLI are pretty dialed I feel atm. Do you usually run those red bars?

 

[MDK]

Sorry if mentioned, how about harvest process. Does stabbing a plant thru the stalk help or hurt? Does drying in dark matter vs just regular ambient light? 24 or 48 hours of dark before chopping does it do anything?

Is curing even important? Mean gene swears he just dries bud no cure and he won some emerald cups...says it tastes best then not after curing in a jar for months

 

[moe.red]

Whats up! Thanks a lot for this info. So what am I looking for with FR? Well...more terps and flavonoids! I would assume running a higher DLI would allow more terps or flavonoids? THen again wouldn't that be entering CO2 territory with a DLI higher than say 45? So my main goal with experimenting with different wavelengths currently is for that flavor and smell in the bud, but my environment and DLI are pretty dialed I feel atm. Do you usually run those red bars?

Funny, I remembered I promised to send these out, then the shit storm happened, looked all over PMs for an address - so yeah if you want I can send just send me your info in PM.

I don't personally attribute far red to anything to do with taste. It's more about pushing the plant to be bigger, branchier, more lateral growth, that kind of thing. I've never actually noticed my weed was better, just more of it or a different shape.

@Aqua Man is going to be writing an article on spectrum this week. I'll bet he touches on some of this. He's looking at recent studies and such.

 

[moe.red]

Sorry if mentioned, how about harvest process. Does stabbing a plant thru the stalk help or hurt? Does drying in dark matter vs just regular ambient light? 24 or 48 hours of dark before chopping does it do anything?

Is curing even important? Mean gene swears he just dries bud no cure and he won some emerald cups...says it tastes best then not after curing in a jar for months

Stabbing - dunno
Dark - not vital but I do it as light degrades THC over time
Harvest time - I think that Terps are best first AM. I don't do a dark period except normal night and harvest in the morning.
Curing yes it makes a difference if you smoke flower. For all the other methods of consumption - YMMV.

Just quick from the hip answers, I do have some testing to support these thoughts but not conclusive.

 

[ZombieRider]

Stabbing - dunno
Dark - not vital but I do it as light degrades THC over time
Harvest time - I think that Terps are best first AM. I don't do a dark period except normal night and harvest in the morning.
Curing yes it makes a difference if you smoke flower. For all the other methods of consumption - YMMV.

Just quick from the hip answers, I do have some testing to support these thoughts but not conclusive.

Do you harvest with the grow lights on? I harvest in the mornings just after lights turn on but I dial the lights to minimum. Im assuming this has something to do with the plant beginning to photosynthesize and will have more water in it making the drying process take longer and/or giving the bud a grassy taste?

 

[ZombieRider]

Funny, I remembered I promised to send these out, then the shit storm happened, looked all over PMs for an address - so yeah if you want I can send just send me your info in PM.

I don't personally attribute far red to anything to do with taste. It's more about pushing the plant to be bigger, branchier, more lateral growth, that kind of thing. I've never actually noticed my weed was better, just more of it or a different shape.

@Aqua Man is going to be writing an article on spectrum this week. I'll bet he touches on some of this. He's looking at recent studies and such.

Its all good bro things have been crazy round here too so no worries. Honestly I think I will just keep it simple w/o the red led's this run since I dont have anything vegging except for a Double fish breath mom who is just chillin, I want her to grow slow cuz its gonna be a while till I can take clones and flip them. I do appreciate the offer to send me those, I will take you up on that offer next run!

 

[moe.red]

Do you harvest with the grow lights on? I harvest in the mornings just after lights turn on but I dial the lights to minimum. Im assuming this has something to do with the plant beginning to photosynthesize and will have more water in it making the drying process take longer and/or giving the bud a grassy taste?

Yes I do, because it takes me days to harvest.

I try to start the day cutting down the plant(s) I am harvesting for the day before the lights come on, and pull them out of the tent for wet trimming. I think it makes a difference in terps, but it could all be in my head honestly. I have no data to confirm this is best.

 

[ZombieRider]

Yes I do, because it takes me days to harvest.

I try to start the day cutting down the plant(s) I am harvesting for the day before the lights come on, and pull them out of the tent for wet trimming. I think it makes a difference in terps, but it could all be in my head honestly. I have no data to confirm this is best.

So you harvest in the dark if your gonna wet trim and harvest with the lights on if your not wet trimming? Interesting. Are you wet trimming for flower or hash? I never even considered wet trimming.