A sneek peek deep into N2's garden thread

[IamN2pot]

LOL, and @smoke glad to see you lookin in. I think I want to try something I read in one of your post about growing in just RO and Cal-Mag! Now that sounds like my kind of soup reciepe!!!


Guess I start mixing another pot of soup.....
How diluted should it be????

 

[smoke]

LOL, and @smoke glad to see you lookin in. I think I want to try something I read in one of your post about growing in just RO and Cal-Mag! Now that sounds like my kind of soup reciepe!!!


Guess I start mixing another pot of soup.....
How diluted should it be????

This is where it bothers me to give advice because i don't run sterile and i don't live, i run neither on giggles, farts and cm.

If they were mine id dump 3/4 of the water replace with ro and add nutes to 1/2 what it was then wait while you continue looking for bugs.

 

[moe.red]

Oh shit. Is that crown rot I see?

 

[moe.red]

This is advanced crown rot




It's a pythium or fusarium infection. Happens in soil and hydro. Untreated it will kill your plant.

Bacillus amyloliquefaciens (hydroguard, orca, etc) will out-compete it. Spay application to the affected area ASAP, or perhaps at this point H2O2.

 

[smoke]

Or calcium, its around the rim of net pot

 

[moe.red]

Could be need N2 to give us better pics and inspect closely.

 

[IamN2pot]

Could be need N2 to give us better pics and inspect closely.

or it could be just plain ole mold from when the cover was on it to keep the light out and the moisture in and in doig so created that mold you see on the rapid rooter plug and around the base of the stem.
But now that you mention it, it's just one more thing that I've never had the privilege of having or even seeing in my soil grows, ...just sayin!

I have R emoved & R eplaced soup with plain RO to bring the ppm down to 300, or .6EC. Thanks for the advise Smoke, it make sense to me and to my VERY untrained eye, I'm thinking nute burn, again! And it does not look to my simi trained eye to be any sort of insect I've ever encountered.


Say you need close ups? I can do that. 1st up, the root stock base. No crown rot, just mycillia and it's very dry and dead, so false alarm I'm thinking there.


Next, lets see what one of those funky leaves looks like, close up and microscope up close. Here are the still shots I took, followed by some video. The black spot at the end of the video, I zoomed in on, only to find a piece of dirt? Whatever it is, it wasn't alive.
The leaf damage seen on the top of the leaves is leaf damage that is very hard to see from the underside of the leaf, if that helps.

THese are all of the same leaf.





Top of leaf under microscope and video of top of the leaf.


View attachment 2023-04-21-123505872.mp4


...and the underside pictures and video of the same leaf.




View attachment 2023-04-21-123646619.mp4

...and a close up of the black spot at the end of the video.... It doesn't look like any bug I've ever seen, ......yet?

 

[moe.red]

I do not see pests in those shots.

I'm really struggling to understand this. For there to be an overnight drastic change like this, it is not that your nutes are a little off, or the PH is a little high. This is a SERIOUS stress response.

With the changes you made to the water, lets take a look tomorrow AM.

 

[moe.red]

N2.

Don’t give up on me.

I took this for you just now.



That is Han Solo death cookies by @Oldsog

I purposefully left that top cola in that weird lighting to test something.

That plant is as healthy in every way measurable as I can expect it to be. The rest is genetics. We will see she has a bit of bulking left to do.

You can do this too.

I’m afraid of your small water volume. Your rh sux but you are dealing with it. You are at altitude but I do not see any symptoms related to lack of oxygen.

I have no idea why your plant took a dive overnight. We are missing something. I’m still trying to figure what that is.

Any other hydro growers out there we could use an idea.

N2 if there is anything else you can tell us? Something happened 2 days ago and you got wasted and pissed in the res?

 

[IamN2pot]

I have kept the TDS between 280 and 330 (500 scale) since reducing it from 580 after the water change from the Bloom soup back to the 321 soup.
To recap, Things were going peachy after reducing the original full stregnth 321 from around 1100ppm to 450-500ppm range. THe plant was growing very well in the 321 soup @ 450-500 ppm. Changed over to the Bloom soup mix at 410 ppm, about 1/2 stregnth of the 'target' 950 ppm and by the end of the week, I noticed curling tips at most of the growth crowns. I changed the water out and back to the 321 @ 1/2 dose. I replaced the 410 ppm Bloom with 600 ppm 321 and things went plumb loco. That was last Thursday and by Friday morning she looked very fried, AGAIN! Thanks again @smoke for nailing the problem with your advice to cut the TDS in half. So, as I said, I lowered it to 300, it dropped over the past 2 days to 280, so today I refilled the res and raised it to 330. Six hours later and it's already dropped back down to 310, so if I was to venture a guess, I'd guess she's hungry. But that said, at 600 PPM, she fried. Here are some pictures from today. I also am seeing lime green tops with dark green veining on the upper leaves. See the pictures. Timing for those leaves growing would be about the time I switched to the Bloom soup, so I'm going to 'guess' that is related to the Bloom soup and the burn and reduction of nutes the past 3 days???

Correct me here, I'm thinking to raise the TDS back up to the 450-500 range, SLOWLY, say 50-70 ppm over a week???? Shouold I try to go any higher than 500ish?

On a good note, my "mother earth" gal looks green and lush, so it's all good!!! ....and cuts are rooting...





and some closer shots of the dark(er) veins. You can see it in the pictures above, but I tried to get it in some closeups.

 

[steamroller]

OK just me with zero real hydro experience throwing in my 2cents which may be worth less in todays economy.
I would let it be for now. Lots of changes. I know everyone likes as high PPM as the plant tolerates, and maybe having more available increases uptake. I do not know this.
I do know the plant consumed only 10PPM per day and think maybe letting it settle for a few more days and taking note of new growth may be helpful.
Again just me.

 

[Cool_Beans]

I've been watching this thread quietly in the corner, and for what it's worth dude, I am learning a lot of stuff here watching you go through this. Keep plugging away bro, I'm totally rooting for you to get some weed out of this bitch. Back to my corner..

 

[Bandit420]

I've been watching too and this is looking like severe phosphor burn to me. We all know about burnt tips being a sign but this is where they go beyond just the tip and twist the new growth because it's an active and intense burning and not the slow signs of minor burn. Bloom boosters with a high K number are known to do this regularly or could just be amped up bloom nutes and she's a very light feeder

 

[IamN2pot]

I've been watching too and this is looking like severe phosphor burn to me. We all know about burnt tips being a sign but this is where they go beyond just the tip and twist the new growth because it's an active and intense burning and not the slow signs of minor burn. Bloom boosters with a high K number are known to do this regularly or could just be amped up bloom nutes and she's a very light feeder

That would make sense since the Bloom is a 10-30-20. Chauk full of Phosphorus. Mind you all, noob here didn't move her into Jack's "target" 1200 TDS for Bloom, it was 1/2. So even at <600 (1.2EC), it is appearently to much of a jump from the 321 @ 450-500 ppm (.9-1EC), especially the bump in P. That's my best guess, emphisis on GUESS!

FTR, I made up a fresh gallon of 321 soup @ Jack's feed schedule, 3.79/2.52/.99 with .6 potassium sillicate. pH'ed down to 5.8 and added about 40oz to top off the res and to raise it from 280 to 330ppm. That was at 9 this morning. I just raised the pH from 5.6, for the 2nd time, and the TDS has dropped to 290. WHAT??? The suggestion box is OPEN!

 

[IamN2pot]

...and I think I just answered my own question about the 'green veining'. If it was on my earth grow, I'd be thinking Nitrogen. So I did a search and Dr. Google says it's N deficiency. That also fits into the soup change to Bloom 10-30-20. It has the least amount of N.
Grrrrr, if that turns out to be a lucky guess and is correct, I'm gonna be an unhappy camper....

 

[moe.red]

I have to say, I've made a ton of mistakes trying to push the envelope. I have never had plants that look like this. They are like severe chemical burns.

I agree with the less is more directions above. I cannot tell you precisely what went wrong, but somehow that water got way too potent for the plant.

Are you using JAcks on the soil plant too?

 

[Member Requested Deletion]

I left soil for my new mistress, rdwc. Best thing I ever did for my growing my own meds

Go for it Mosh! Love watching folks see the fruits of such fast gardening the same way I am seeing for myself!

Funny Story, Im strictly an outdoor compost grower and came across this RDWC post . ive seen this term before and just kept scrolling. Well today i googled it and realize this is exactly what i was doing back in 1979. Did not know of anyone doing this back then. Now you can just buy the setup. Back then I had to mcgiever it all.

 

[IamN2pot]

Are you using JAcks on the soil plant too?

Absolutly NOT! "Mother earth" plant is just one more in my 3 years of recent JAWS grows (Supersoil). JAWS, is a Just Add Water System of supersoil and that's what I named it, or in my case, just add water STUPID . It has had nothing but RO with GH Cal-Mag @ 1ml per liter and that puts my pH at 6.3. That's all!!! and beautiful, lush green plant. No muss, no fuss!!!
I do get extreemly agrivated with myself when I forget to check it and jaw, stupid!

I also want to repeat myself and once again THANK @Moe.Red , @smoke ,@SweetLeafGrow ,@steamroller and ALL who have commented and contributed to this attempt to teach this old dog a new trick!!!

...and speaking of new tricks, I had another surprise this morning. Hydrophonics, the experiance that keeps on giving, LOL! The pH went up overnight. Never what I expect in that reservoir. After watching it fall all day yesterday, I ph uped it last night about 9PM from 5.7 to 5.8 after 2 previous pH'up during the day. Got up this morning and got out there as the lights came on at 7AM, pH was at 6.1. pH downed it to 5.8. The TDS was down to 280 as well, so, I added 32oz of my full stregnth 1100ppm Jack's 321 to topoff the res and it raised the ppm to 330. What a roller coaster, but roller coasters are fun, right?

Here are todays sad, burnt pictures. IMO, she is rapidly recovering from the overdose burn. I did find a picture I posted in a previous post from Sun, the 16th, 4 days after I switched from the 321 to the Bloom (10-30-20) and when I zoom in on the top growing tip, you can see the newest growth already begining to twist and deform. Then I switched back to the 321 @ 150ppm more (450 to 600) and that only exastrabated the problem. Well, that's what I think anyways...
Original picture:
...and the blow-up of the top, begining to twist, curl and contort. IMO from the Bloom soup.



and from today, the crispy water weed.



I can't forget to show Mother Earth.



I went to take a short video of my BlueLab reading. Confound-it, the TDS has already dropped 20 points in 2 hours.
Does that indicate it want's more??

View attachment VID_20230425_085744.mp4


and on a happy note, remember my Tripod that was a male? Well, meet Mrs. Tripod. She'll be transplanted later today!
She is a cut I found on Mother Earth. The other 3 cuts are from Mrs. Water Weed. I only took them last week.
View attachment VID_20230425_090010.mp4

 

[SweetLeafGrow]

Dang bro, sorry I cannot be more help with that hydro plant, never seen that either. You soil plant looks stellar!

 

[moe.red]

I'm encouraged by your new growth.

Personally I think the slight PH adjustments are not necessary. I kinda like to see the macro trends as information.

 

[IamN2pot]

Well, for what it's worth, the problem doesn't lie with the information I receive here, that's for sure. As for the 'instructions', and I use that term tongue and cheek, on the Jack's site, seems to me from my extreemly limited experiance, to be the quickist way to kill your plants. At most, 1/2 stregnth and in my case, I'm runnung at 1/4 recomended dosage, SERIOUSLY???
And appearantly, while I think that 'DWC' is growing cannabis in pure water, growing cannabis "Cannabis ...grown in pure water sources" isn't DWC, because if I/you use their dosage stregnth, it WILL kill my plant. Since when does "grown in pure water" not include DWC? Did I miss something? Well, since Jack's jacked up their formula to TDS readings that as far as I can tell, will fry and eventually kill in DWC. I guess that's when....DWC is in pure water, but growing in pure water is not DWC??? I'm confussed if that's true??? LOL, but then I'm so easily confussed.

NO, I AM NOT HAPPY WITH JACK's! Given the proper instructions for use, it might not be a bad product, but using it according to "Jack's" target TDS is suicidal. That is what really PISSES me off! Lying, scamming POS! IMO. So let me pose a question to my fellow true life experianced growers. How much actual marijuana growing experiance, research and development on real cannabis, can Jack's actually do in Penn? I mean do they have fields of test hemp? If so, I stand corrected, but simple common sense and my experiance tells me a differant story.

 

[IamN2pot]

I'm encouraged by your new growth.

Personally I think the slight PH adjustments are not necessary. I kinda like to see the macro trends as information.

THanks for the input, Moe. Can you give me some numbers? 5.8 is the target, so when should I re-adjust the pH to the target? and perhaps it's more about time, how long should I wait before adjusting???

...and for my follow-up questions, LOL, TDS? Should I stay in the 300-350 range until/unless I see signs of deficiency? or should I begin raising it into the 450-500 range, unless I start seeing signs of 'new' tip burn.

I don't think I even want to try and explore TDS ranges much over 500 (1.0EC). I'm seeing the results of 600ppm right now, and it's not so good...

 

[SweetLeafGrow]

Can you give me some numbers? 5.8 is the target, so when should I re-adjust the pH to the target?

As far as hydro pH numbers, you are safe between 5.4 and 6.1. I will let it drift where it's going to go and when it gets out of that range, I will adjust.

 

[moe.red]

Agree with SLG on PH. 6.5 for a day will not hurt your plant. Running it there the whole time will. Same with 4.5. Although a sudden change should set off alarms.

You have had problems with JAcks from day one starting with a bag of goo. I do not blame you one bit for being skeptical on this stuff. If you want to switch today, there are lots of growers here that have GH trio experience, it is more forgiving I would say. A small bottle of each would probably get you thru this grow if you want to change out. I get it.

 

[Moshmen]

Well, for what it's worth, the problem doesn't lie with the information I receive here, that's for sure. As for the 'instructions', and I use that term tongue and cheek, on the Jack's site, seems to me from my extreemly limited experiance, to be the quickist way to kill your plants. At most, 1/2 stregnth and in my case, I'm runnung at 1/4 recomended dosage, SERIOUSLY???
And appearantly, while I think that 'DWC' is growing cannabis in pure water, growing cannabis "Cannabis ...grown in pure water sources" isn't DWC, because if I/you use their dosage stregnth, it WILL kill my plant. Since when does "grown in pure water" not include DWC? Did I miss something? Well, since Jack's jacked up their formula to TDS readings that as far as I can tell, will fry and eventually kill in DWC. I guess that's when....DWC is in pure water, but growing in pure water is not DWC??? I'm confussed if that's true??? LOL, but then I'm so easily confussed.

NO, I AM NOT HAPPY WITH JACK's! Given the proper instructions for use, it might not be a bad product, but using it according to "Jack's" target TDS is suicidal. That is what really PISSES me off! Lying, scamming POS! IMO. So let me pose a question to my fellow true life experianced growers. How much actual marijuana growing experiance, research and development on real cannabis, can Jack's actually do in Penn? I mean do they have fields of test hemp? If so, I stand corrected, but simple common sense and my experiance tells me a differant story.
View attachment 1312

I do bout cannabis research but jacks has been around for long time before jacks peters professional, I used in the 80’s

 

[Bandit420]

Well, for what it's worth, the problem doesn't lie with the information I receive here, that's for sure. As for the 'instructions', and I use that term tongue and cheek, on the Jack's site, seems to me from my extreemly limited experiance, to be the quickist way to kill your plants. At most, 1/2 stregnth and in my case, I'm runnung at 1/4 recomended dosage, SERIOUSLY???
And appearantly, while I think that 'DWC' is growing cannabis in pure water, growing cannabis "Cannabis ...grown in pure water sources" isn't DWC, because if I/you use their dosage stregnth, it WILL kill my plant. Since when does "grown in pure water" not include DWC? Did I miss something? Well, since Jack's jacked up their formula to TDS readings that as far as I can tell, will fry and eventually kill in DWC. I guess that's when....DWC is in pure water, but growing in pure water is not DWC??? I'm confussed if that's true??? LOL, but then I'm so easily confussed.

NO, I AM NOT HAPPY WITH JACK's! Given the proper instructions for use, it might not be a bad product, but using it according to "Jack's" target TDS is suicidal. That is what really PISSES me off! Lying, scamming POS! IMO. So let me pose a question to my fellow true life experianced growers. How much actual marijuana growing experiance, research and development on real cannabis, can Jack's actually do in Penn? I mean do they have fields of test hemp? If so, I stand corrected, but simple common sense and my experiance tells me a differant story.
View attachment 1312

Jacks has been giving growers fits for years Man. There used to be a deal where it had to be mixed in hot water. Not sure if that's still a thing.
Some of this will come with experience using different things but hot NPK's like that are usually for outdoor plants that are very large or your common heavy feeding veggie garden. Indoors you rarely if ever need anything above single digit NPKs. Cannabis is not the food hog nute companies make it out to be. Most feed charts are better served as toilet paper as well.
A good rule of thumb is always start at 1/4 dose or lower and stay on it until the ladies ask for more. It's always easier to give more than take excess back. After a while you'll be surprised just how little food supply or how mild of a supply cannabis thrives on.
Personally I'm a minimalist when it comes to feeding. So much so my gardens have been nursing off the same gallon size jug of food for 4 years because I never go over half strength and only actually do a food laden soil drench one time during flowering, usually around week 4-5

 

[IamN2pot]

I do bout cannabis research but jacks has been around for long time before jacks peters professional, I used in the 80’s

That's hilarious. I was using Peters Porfessional Potting Soil in the late 80's for my first major indoor grow. It beat the heck out of Miracle Grow. Oh, and since Moe mentioned General Hydro nutes, I did a quick Google. I thought their (GH) parrent company was Monsanto. Nope, it's Scotts, Miracle Grow. That's halirious!!!

https://www.bizjournals.com/columbus/news/2015/04/03/scotts-jumps-into-the-marijuana-business-with-deal.html

https://generalhydroponics.com/our-story/

...and for anyone reading this that doesn't know what "bag of goo" Moe was refering to, here is a testament to their quality control.
May I present Jack's Clone 15-6-17 dry powder nutrient. Talk about first impressions......Hahahaha! POS!

 

[IamN2pot]

Last Thursday I was wondering why my plant was frying and dieing. This Thursday, through no fault of my own, I am lovin the new green growth. Thanks guys!!!

I did a defoliation on both plants and tied down to spread out Mother Earth so I would have a more open and level canopy. I took a picture of each plant and one of a pair of tops growing next to each other. Can you tell which one is Water Weed and which one is Mother Earth? LOL!!! ...well, the new growth looks good. Especially on top of the fried leaves.
I am still hopefull that since they are only 14 days into 12/12 that she still has time to fully recover and grow me some nice flowers. Only time will tell, but I thought it would be nice to watch the 2 side by side buds as they develope.

FTR: pH - 5.9 TDS - 330(500scale) Water temp - 68/69*

 

[IamN2pot]

Fun with puns...

I don't want to cloud up the water, so in an effort to clear things up and try to help others avoid frying plants with Jack's, I've done some real soul searching. Remember how in the cop shows the detective always make the comment, "no matter how insignificant or minute it seems". OK, here goes. I still feel like the chem burn was from the 600ppm (1.2EC) and is what caused the major damage, but I did change my normal mixing method in that water change and did notice something I hadn't noticed before.
I wanted 6 gallons for the water change at 600ppm, so the plan was to mix 3 gallons at Jack's "target" stregnth (1200ppm, 2.4EC) in 3 Gal of RO and dilute by half with 3 gal of pure RO. Sound good, right? Anyway, for 6 gallons of water @Moe.Red 's suggested .6gr pr gal of Potasium Silicate = 3.6gr that I put into the 3 gallons of RO. Add the 3 x 3.79 of A, 3 x .99 of Epsom and last added the 3 x 2.52 of B and things got cloudy, as you will see. I didn't really even notice it until I added the Phosphoric Acid to pH down it and then I noticed the water clear up.
Like I said, I don't know if the additional silicate caused some sort of reaction or what, but I never had the clouding issue before I doubled up the silicate in the mix, trying to skip adding 1.8gr to one 3 gal bucket and 1.8gr to the other.

Last thing I want is for someone else to have to experiance frying their pride and joys. So without trying to cloud up the water any more, LOL!!!! here is a repeat of the experiment, scaled down to 1/2 gal.
FTR: 1/2gal RO
+ .6gr siliscate
+ 1.9gr A
+ .49gr Ep
+ 1.26 B (not cloudy until B is added)
= cloudy
+ .5ml pH down and voila, clear soup

Working with one hand while videoing,,,,, geezzzz.

View attachment VID_20230428_091239.mp4

 

[Moshmen]

Def look a lot happier nice work !

 

[IamN2pot]

Def look a lot happier nice work !

Not any credit for the recovery due me, thanks to Moe and Smoke and others for saving her!!!!! Me and Jack's have done our darn'est to kill her.

 

[moe.red]

I love the WHAAAAT at the end.

You are doing it right man. The silica would clear up over time on it's own, the PH down just speeds it up. The 2 together combine into a new substance. You are seeing that reaction real time. And now that solution, once you adjust it to the correct PH, will be resistant to future PH changes. Exactly what you want.

Great job on the recovery. That old burnt up shit can get pulled off now if you want, there is no benefit left in those leaves.

 

[IamN2pot]

WHAAAT!, ....I was seriously surprised that it had repeated, exactly what had happened when I mixed the pH down into the soup she's in now.

She is still continually dropping in pH. Some days alot more than others. Usually from .2 - 1.2, and the smaller drops are always at night. Yesterday I checked it at 6:30, before the light came on and it was at 5.7. Went back to bed. Light comes on at 7AM. I went out to check again at 11AM and the pH had dropped to 4.6. Plant and roots looked and smelled fine, so I re-adjusted it and checked every couple hours. She dropped once from 5.8 to 5.4 and as the lights went out at 7PM, zshe had dropped from 5.8 to 5.6. This morning, she had only dropped from 5.8 to 5.6 so I let it ride until 9. She was at 5.4, so I pH up'ed it again.
I also did a defoliation on her and took a pic of the leaves, from before frying to mostly fried. I still wonder if the dark veined ones have N def, from the 10-30-20 Bloom???

Mother Earth, lookin fine!
(burnt leaves in the forground are Water Weed's)


...and here is Water weed. Look closely at the main top. She is doing some sort of quad thing. Yep, 4 leaves per internode. ... daaaa oooohhhh weird!!!!



View attachment VID_20230430_103645.mp4

Leaves I picked while defoliating. Oh my Budda!!! From before adding Bloom to after adding 600ppm 321. Currently my TDS is 330 and Jacks target is 1200.

 

[IamN2pot]

Oops, forgot to add a picture of side by side buds. Here they are, earth and water, .....and the water pH has dropped again. W H Y ????

 

[IamN2pot]

To change or not to change?,
the water, that's the question! She has been drinking about 1/2 gal a day.
pH continuously drops, so I guess that's OK? I just add pH up every 2-4 hours while the light is on and before they come on in the early morning.
TDS I've been keeping in the 320-350 range (.6-.7EC)
Roots look and smell fne.
So why change out the water? I have new growth tip burn, or at least that's what I think it is. Pictures are below.
Should I give her a fresh batch of 321 soup in the 270-300 range?
Does she need any Cal/Mag?
Does her caretaker just need to take a chill pill? OK, chill PUFF!

If it were my soil grow, I'd stop any nutes I might be adding and if nothing was being added, I'd be watching it closely and ready to give it a light flush. Those tips would be telling me that the soil would be border line to hot.

What do you think @smoke, @Moe.Red and anyone else with their experiance to add??? Change the water to a lower TDS? or just add RO to lower the TDS or something else, like Cal/Mag??? Thanks!

 

[moe.red]

Ph dropping is caused by a few things. I have never grown in such a small water supply and I have for sure never adjusted as much as you are. I think some of this has been chasing your tail. Some has been due to the small water bolume. Some had been due to nute imbalance. I also wonder if there are some problems with the roots like there are with the leaves. Necrotic root tissue will cause ph drop.

I feel inadequate to advise you because this is just all over the place and I don’t feel certain about any answer I would give.

I THINK you should continue at low ppm.

Being that you have changed out the soup multiple times I think I would not do that again today. We need this girl to settle in a bit. Balance rather than see saw.

 

[IamN2pot]

Ph dropping is caused by a few things. I have never grown in such a small water supply and I have for sure never adjusted as much as you are. I think some of this has been chasing your tail. Some has been due to the small water bolume. Some had been due to nute imbalance. I also wonder if there are some problems with the roots like there are with the leaves. Necrotic root tissue will cause ph drop.

I feel inadequate to advise you because this is just all over the place and I don’t feel certain about any answer I would give.

I THINK you should continue at low ppm.

Being that you have changed out the soup multiple times I think I would not do that again today. We need this girl to settle in a bit. Balance rather than see saw.

THanks Moe, I can do that, the low ppm thing you suggest with the soup she's in. This morning I added a 1/2 gal of pure RO. In this little 5-6 gal system, that's what?, 8-10%. Very surprised it only dropped my ppm from 330 to 320. That ain't the 8-10% drop in TDS I expected from adding 8-10% pure RO to the res??? This evening, she is still at 320ppm.
FTR: NOTHING FRIED, it's all good today!!! I adjusted pH 4 times today. This morning from 5.6 to 5.8 for the days starting point at 7AM. 11AM pH had come down .4 to 5.4 , so back up to 5.8. Again at 2:30 and the pH was down .3, to 5.5, so adjuster back up to 5.8. Checked at light's out, 7AM and she was down .5-.6, with the meter blinking back and forth from 5.3 to 5.2 and back. So add .4 plus .3 plus .5 and she dropped 1.2 points over the day. Nights seem to be completely differant. It's never drops more than .3 over night, usually only .2, to 5.6.

I'll just add pure RO again in the morning to top up the res, and see if my TDS drops more than 10.
Roots 'look' good/OK to me and the smell reminds me a bit of my finished, fresh compost. It's a healthy, earthy smell to me.

 

[IamN2pot]

Todays update continues much as yesterday. pH was at 5.5 this morning, so I added the additional 1/2 gal of RO w/Orca and adjusted the pH to 5.8. The TDS dropped from 330 to 310. I didn't check it again until after lunch, about 2:30 and the pH was down to 5.0. GRRR!!! and the TDS was up to 320. SERIOUSLY? Oh well.
I started thinking, ...so watch out!!! She is drinking water and dropping the pH, but no nutes over the past 2 days. As I recall, pH to low means certain nutes aren't available, pH to high and others aren't. Since my soup hasn't been above 5.9pH, and spent alot of time below 5.6, I figured I'd give her a pH boost. So after raising her to 5.8 at 2:30, about 4:00 I raised her to 6.1 and I added another 1/2 gal of RO so the PPM dropped to 310, again. At 7, lights out, I took her from 6.0 to 6.2 and the ppm was up to 320 . I'll see what the meters read in the morning. I'm hopeful she will start eating again and the TDS will start falling and not just the pH and water level.

Todays good news, I've spotted trichomes on her...

 

[IamN2pot]

This mornings meter check for pH was as expected, a .2-.3 drop, from 6.2 down to a blinking 5.9 to 6.0 and back and forth.
The TDS was a pleasant surprise, I think. It was down to 310 , from 320 while the water level also dropped, about 2 cups (16oz) overnight.

I took some pictures of it's rather massive rootball for examination by the pro's. I don't personally see anything that looks problematic, but that's easy to say when you don't really know what to look out for, especially what to look for in the way of root shock, or what Moe said: from the 321 to Bloom to 321 fried leaves fiasco.

Necrotic root tissue will cause ph drop.

Let me know what you think? They definitely look like roots, to me!!!!





I also took pics of the top of her as well as a side by side bud development picture of her next to the dirt plant. That picture brings up another subject. Notice that the Water leaves are greener than the Earth leaves? I'm thinking it's time to feed her. Actually, I'm pretty sure she can use a good feed at this point. Under my normal 4 plant per tent grow, I get about 150gr pr plant and I can push a 5 gallon fabric pot through to harvest with just water. But since this grow, I pushed Mother Earth an extra 7-10 days in veg, expecting something around 250-300gr from her, she will need some additional feeding.
I think I'll do a top dressing of straight Supersoil, about 1" deep and see if that won't green her back up and get her through the rest of her bloom.
I'm also GUESSING that the reason the Water gal is behind in flowering is more due to environment, because of the nute burn, and not so much due to it being a differant pheno from her sister. But untill I do a side by side in the same growing medium, I'm just guessing about that.
What do you think?

Top of Water Weed:



and the side by side, Earth and Water.

 

[smoke]

Root structure looks good, hairy roots are happy roots.

Your scaring me with your low ppms because the numbers your feeding is where i feed. The sweet spot for me around week 2 of flower seems to be around 420 on the 700 scale which is 300 on your 500 scale.

Looking good btw. Calcium needs increase starting where you are now. I think your at 1 per gal now i would add to that by half.