Rootsruler
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Somehow I thought this part of the process would be more romantic like appreciating a fine wine at different stages. Now in the real world I'll be happy for anything that comes out of the jars even close to a pleasing aroma. LolAgree with @steamroller. I would attribute the change in aroma to cure process. My own harvest has been changing aroma some as it starts to cure.
As smoke said if you're in the zone packs aren't needed.Hello, I'm coming to the end of the curing process and I'm wondering if most people use a Boveda humidity pack at this point or just go with it as long as humidity is 60%-62%?
I throw the 62 into the jar ASAP.
No real reason but they only work if needed
And for the record I laughed at these and said little carrots are free and work fine.Hmmm . . . Like it's not going to hurt and could only help.
I would definitely be cautious running at 14/10, I had Apples & Bananas go into full on flower at 15/9.I'm ready to start 9 photos for an outside grow now. When I take them outside to harden off in three weeks there will be 14 hours of daylight. So it makes sense to me to change my light cycle to 14/10.
My second auto will still have about a week left before harvest when the new plants pop up.
I wonder if it would cause a problem if my auto spent the last 7-10 days in reduced light (from 18/6 down to 14/10)?
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I would not intentionally reduce a photo to 14 hours if I did not want it to flower.
What it does outside you have no control over unless you have a green house.
I drop my photos to flower week by week from 18/6 and most show clearly at 14/10 hours.
Where are you located? That plays a big role too. Any way to keep light on them for 4 or 5 hours when the sun goes down?@GoodShit97
Oh man, either I'm totally confused on how to start photos indoors and the move them outside or I did a poor job asking my question, or both. Lol
Just to focus on the photos I'm starting starting now. When they reach 3 weeks old in 3 weeks from now there will be 14 hours of daylight outside and the daylight will still be increasing until the solstice in June, so I thought I should have them at 14 hours per day in veg so they wouldn't go into flowering stage. I thought the idea was to have your veging photos at the same light schedule inside as what it is when you take them outside?
I definitely appreciate any help understanding this please.
Where are you located? That plays a big role too. Any way to keep light on them for 4 or 5 hours when the sun goes down?
I can't put anything out until the end of May beginning of June so I haven't even started anything yet lol.
18/6
Pretty much.@steamroller
Is the idea since we can't control things like putting them outside and having a week of cloudy weather we just grow them like normal at 18/6, harden them off and hope for the best after we transplant them?
Pretty much.
If you could supplement any light [ not even a grow light but regular incandescent ] it would help the plant think it was getting more hours of light.
I am in middle NY like G$ and I have seen plants start to flower in August and plants that did not finish by October.
Choosing a plant/seed with a good finishing history and being mold resistant is about all you can do to help without going through extreme measures.
I am not one who will go out every morning in the 'fall' and use a leaf blower to dry up my plants but people do.
Where did you get your seeds? What are the strains?
Keep in mind that "cloudy day" doesn't mean they get no light. Just means less DLI. This means on cloudy days their photosynthetic maximum won't be reached but they will continue growing just at a reduced rate.@steamroller
Is the idea since we can't control things like putting them outside and having a week of cloudy weather we just grow them like normal at 18/6, harden them off and hope for the best after we transplant them?
Keep in mind that "cloudy day" doesn't mean they get no light. Just means less DLI. This means on cloudy days their photosynthetic maximum won't be reached but they will continue growing just at a reduced rate.
IME, for outdoor you want a humid, cool spring to get the veg going and a drier, medium hot summer going into an even drier cooler fall. As few cloudy days as possible within that time frame.
I've been to your neck of the woods, sort of, in July. I used to go to the Good Guys Auto show in Columbus. Definitely hot and humid but nothing too bad for cannabis.Excellent point about DLI! I was not looking at that correctly. I need to learn about a photosynthetic maximum now.
Where I live they will get a humid cool spring, a hot humid summer, and a drier cool fall
Cool.I've been to your neck of the woods, sort of, in July. I used to go to the Good Guys Auto show in Columbus. Definitely hot and humid but nothing too bad for cannabis.
Yes, you can reduce light exposure the closer you get to harvest to mimic the shorter days of fall. My question is why. How would a shorter light period benefit flower characteristics? Maybe the signaling will induce more resin and terpene production? I haven't read or seen anything that would back this up but that is the only thing I can think it should be doing if this is in fact helping your flower. Maybe the shorter light period will help in preserving more terpenes since they aren't exposed to the higher lights on temps for longer? If that's the case and you don't have the ability to lower the temp in your tent then this may be a good way of preserving them.Cool.
Also, I took a closer look at the light chart and it is 14 hours and 28 minutes of daylight the week I want to plant outside.
Royal Queen Seeds is saying I should gradually reduce the lighting the last week in the closet from 18 hours to get it closer to this 14.5 hour mark. This kind of makes sense to me.
I feel like I'm too ignorant to participate in this conversation, but I think the answer to the why is to prevent the plant from going into flower prematurely. Otherwise, there's no reason to disrupt the natural progression of the seedling/plant. I guess the question is how much of a concern is it really to simply start a plant indoors and then move it outside from 18 hours to 14.5 without causing problems. If it is not a real concern then then there is no reason to reduce the light exposure to the 3 week old photos before taking them outside.Yes, you can reduce light exposure the closer you get to harvest to mimic the shorter days of fall. My question is why. How would a shorter light period benefit flower characteristics? Maybe the signaling will induce more resin and terpene production? I haven't read or seen anything that would back this up but that is the only thing I can think it should be doing if this is in fact helping your flower. Maybe the shorter light period will help in preserving more terpenes since they aren't exposed to the higher lights on temps for longer? If that's the case and you don't have the ability to lower the temp in your tent then this may be a good way of preserving them.
IMO, the more photons we give the plants to work with the better. Shortening the light period is turning off the sugar making machine that fuels the plant.
One of the things I'm starting to pay much more attention to getting right is temperature. High humidity in veg and flower is avoided because of possible mold issues along with providing a better VPD for the plants but temperature seems to be what I've found to affect quality and quantity most.
Don't expect those little hygrometers to be accurate to the exact point.I got some Boveda 62% RH packs size 8-10 to experiment with. They took both of my jars back up to 65%!
So I took them back out of the jars and they went back to 62%. So my first experience with these was not cool.
I put one of the packs in an empty jar and it's holding it a 65%. Does this seem odd to anyone?
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This actually sounds good. Thanks bro!are you still getting frosts where you are.if you aren’t why don’t you take them outside once up and leave them in pots for a month then transplant them into the ground if that’s what your doing..you won’t have to worry bout anything..