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I planted my first outdoor last year before May 24th, typically our last frost period. One of the steps recommended is to soak the roots and ground around the plant(s). Let the plant soak up as much as they can to protect cells and keep the earth a tad warmer. Only tried this the last to outdoor grows so can’t say if it’s better or not but the plants made it.You might be mentioning something completely new to me. What's the purpose of soaking the roots in May? I am chopping, though.

These were on sale at three of our bigger stores so I grabbed two for our bushy low plants like lavender. But the small cannabis plant will be testing one first.Nice! What did you go with for the Winter cover? I haven't researched good cover crops for my area, yet.


You want a monster like my last year plant grow it indoors after new years and put it outside as soon as the frost is past. Then LST and a top net. You’ll do great.This first grow was in 100 gallon grow bags. For outdoors next year, I plan to go in the ground and really focus on maintaining living soil. A ground cover crop will be part of that, for sure.
She’s trying.Sometimes they need some privacy, lol. Hope she's doing great.

Thanks @Zen_seeker! I hadn’t heard about soaking the ground before a cold snap. I do plan to start my out outdoor plants indoors, next year. I don’t know if I’ll be forward thinking enough to get them started in January. My gardening brain might still be in hibernation then, lol.I planted my first outdoor last year before May 24th, typically our last frost period. One of the steps recommended is to soak the roots and ground around the plant(s). Let the plant soak up as much as they can to protect cells and keep the earth a tad warmer. Only tried this the last to outdoor grows so can’t say if it’s better or not but the plants made it.
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These were on sale at three of our bigger stores so I grabbed two for our bushy low plants like lavender. But the small cannabis plant will be testing one first. View attachment 75840View attachment 75841
Doesn’t stop sun or rain but does help with wind and frost and stops snow.
You want a monster like my last year plant grow it indoors after new years and put it outside as soon as the frost is past. Then LST and a top net. You’ll do great.
She’s trying.
It was a toss it or plant it moment. @stonemason dared me to try and grow it late. So why not? I might get 1/4 out of her.
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All our big box stores had them on sale. I didn’t save the cardboard sleeve with its name or I’d post it but here is a web pic. Mines just larger.Those covers look perfect. Maybe that’ll be the key to finishing out the plant @stonemason talked you into starting late.
















That makes sense. I guess you could draw straight well water before filtration, if it was good enough. I'm having a hard time figuring what measurement to convert that conductivity to. Pre-filter pH is high.I think you need to test after your filters, before softener.
That makes sense. I guess you could draw straight well water before filtration, if it was good enough. I'm having a hard time figuring what measurement to convert that conductivity to. Pre-filter pH is high.
As @Stoneyluv mention in his thread, rainwater is an option. I've read about some positives for that, but it sure would be nice to just run a fill line right to a reservoir. Maybe even have a level float and shut off valve.
If I get the water tested post-filtration, I need to learn what all to have them test for. I recall there being options when I had the well water tested.
Do the chickens drink directly from the collection barrel or do you have to transfer it to their waterer? My chicken have two buckets with the with the poultry nipples on the bottom hanging in their run. Until freezing weather hits, I just leave a water hose running to a splitter with hoses running to both buckets. It's nice to just open the valve and let the buckets fill up. Your way might require even less labor.i have one for the garden and i have another one behind my garage for my koi pond top off and i use a smaller one off of my chicken coop roof to provide them water.
Asphalt shingles here. Good to know that work for you.Marty Rainey claims a metal roof is the cleanest for rain collection. i have one on shingles and one on a metal roof and both read identical.
Thanks! I see where it says 159 TDS and I'm guessing the 500 mcl indicates the scale. I'm trying to understand how the conversion to TDS was calculated. I've tried using this online calculator, but I'm missing something and/or the starting unit isn't available in the calculator6.8 is not too high of a pH IMO. You should be able to manipulate it.
Your 244 conductivity equals 159 TDS.
Wonder if you could collect in 50g rain barrels and go from there? At least it’s a secondary reservoir., rainwater is an option. I've read about some positives for that, but it sure would be nice to just run a fill line right to a reservoir. Maybe even have a level float and shut off valve.
Do the chickens drink directly from the collection barrel or do you have to transfer it to their waterer? My chicken have two buckets with the with the poultry nipples on the bottom hanging in their run. Until freezing weather hits, I just leave a water hose running to a splitter with hoses running to both buckets. It's nice to just open the valve and let the buckets fill up. Your way might require even less labor.
Off topic, but one of the best investments I made for the chickens was adding a solar powered dawn-to-dusk door. I've had it for like 7 years and it has operated flawlessly. They march out when it opens in the morning and head in before it closes at night.


Yep, that sounds like a good set-up. My waterers are outside the coop, but in the run. I use those 1500W tank de-icers. The 500W bucket de-icers don't seem to last very long.i collect it in an elevated drum, i think it's 35 gallons... their coop and run are on a decent grade so it helps me get the elevation so i don't need any pumps. one output goes to a float valve inside the coop in a gallon jug with three nipples on the bottom, in the winter i put a small aquarium heater in it and this is their main source of drinking when frozen outside. and outside in their run i have a big jug with auto fill cups all around it. they prefer to drink from this over the nipples but it makes too much of a mess inside the coop with open water.
Yours is sexier, because you built it. I just bought the door, solar panel and battery as a kit. It's been a great purchase, tho.i sure do, great minds think alike!!... installed it as i was building the coop!!! i used an automotive light sensor and a couple relays connected to an actuator... it's still a mess yet, i had to take it apart and change out the power source a while back and never ties it back neat again, the chicken don't mind!!! haha
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Wonder if you could collect in 50g rain barrels and go from there? At least it’s a secondary reservoir.
We have four now. Only ran out of water for outdoor plants once last year.
I made a horrible guess, lol.500 mcl is
Maximum Contaminant Level
MCL (Maximum Contaminant Level) refers to the highest level of a contaminant allowed in drinking water





That's the way to do it, from what I've been reading here and there. Truth is, I feel better getting input from Bud Builders. I really appreciate the input @steamroller!I would think fan first.
I don't run MH but you would the fan first if you were going to filter/scrub the exhaust.
@smoke runs MH.
Maybe we can get him here.
Set up looks good to me.![]()




| Temperature | 75℉ |
| Humidity | 70% (wondering if it I should use the humidifier to target VPD, instead) |
| Metal Halide lamp | Vegelumax 400W, correlated color temp(K) 6000 |
| Bulb Spacing | 17" above seedlings |
| Light Cycle | 18/6 (on at 6:00AM and off at 11:59PM) |

















You got a lot going on here. Looks like two ACI probes, hygrometer and another probe in the red cups soil?That's the way to do it, from what I've been reading here and there. Truth is, I feel better getting input from Bud Builders. I really appreciate the input @steamroller!
Recent bumblings:
I had first placed 8 seeds in a wet paper towel and DVD case on 08MAR25. 6 seeds germinated and on 15MAR25 I put the seedlings in soil. Nothing fancy. As per usual, I didn't prepare and grabbed GroundWork Organic Seed Starter that was available locally at TSC. Just to keep track of things, I marked the healthier-looking seedling of each strain as "1" and the second as "2". I haven't done any research on what I should be looking for in soil for seedlings. The info on the bag says:
Total Nitrogen- 0.06%
0.006% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
0.006% Other water soluble Nitrogen
0.048 Water insoluble Nitrogen (Slowly available Nitrogen derived from from compaost poultry manure and feather meal)
Available Phosphate- 0.03%
Soluble Potash- 0.03%
Ingredients- sphagnum peat moss, processed wood fiber, perlite, ground dolomitic limestone (pH adjuster), and a wetting agent.
Photos of the seedlings that I took on 15MAR25, immediately before putting them in the starter mix:
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The humidity in the tent was hanging around 40% when I put the seedlings in on 15MAR25 and continuing through the next day. I ended up making a 1.5hr drive to a shop in Salem, VA and buying the small ACI (T3) humidifier. I also picked up an ACI outlet to replace the mechanical timer I had on the light. I had never been here before, but will be returning. They seemed to have a little bit of everything and were super-friendly.
Shop manager, Sparkles, was a real sweetheart:
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Sunday night, I installed the humidifier. Here's the current configuration:
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I don't guess you can tell while the tent is open in that photo, but the Govee hygrometer readings are not inline with the ACI temps and humidity. They were dead even when I was using the tent for drying last Fall. I guess i should pick up a third before calibrating this one to the ACI readings? I supposed it could be ACI is out of whack or even both. Anyone have a recommendation on a reliable device I should pick up?
I screwed up and didn't fill the humidifier with water Sunday night. I had just put in enough for it to run while I was figuring out where to place it. Ended up forgetting to top it off and got an alert that it had run empty and shut off shortly after arriving at work, yesterday morning. It was after 9:00PM before I was able to fill it up and get it running last night. I don't know if it was the long stretches of dry air or something else I've done wrong, but Orange Widow 2 seems to be toast.
Current targets. Recommended changes are welcome for any of this:
Temperature 75℉ Humidity 70% (wondering if it I should use the humidifier to target VPD, instead) Metal Halide lamp Vegelumax 400W, correlated color temp(K) 6000 Bulb Spacing 17" above seedlings Light Cycle 18/6 (on at 6:00AM and off at 11:59PM)
Here's the most recent 24 hour trend. That dip at the front is 6 hours with no light. The temp dropped to 62℉. Should I run a small heater in there during lights off?
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Here is damage that I "believe" was caused by poor placement of the outlet end on the humidifier tube. It was pretty much trained right on these leaves. It wasn't intentional. I had made some adjustments to placement of the pH/Temp probes and height of the light, but overlooked moving the humidifier tubing, accordingly.
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All of the plants have leaves showing some level of waviness and leaf curling that I "think" was caused by over watering early on. The newer leaves appear to be developing a little better. Lemon Sour Diesel 2 is the frailest of the surviving seedlings and she shows the most examples of this damage.
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I'm second guessing the concerns I had about the light being too close to the plants. Currently, I'm leaning towards overwatering being the biggest contributor to poor plant health. I did install the PPFD Meter and Photone apps that I've seen some of you commenting on lately. I didn't see a metal halide option for PPFD Meter. I purchased the MH option for Photone and it HPS is available. I haven't studied up on the best practices, yet. I only made the paper diffuser and messed around with the app for a minute.
Good eye! Your observation already made me learn something. One probe goes directly to the controller. The second is plugged into the humidifier. Yes again, one is just to a seed mat that the seedlings are sitting on. After seeing your message, I looked up whether I need the second probe for the humidifier. Since the humidifier is plugged into the controller, I don't need it. Thanks for pointing that out.You got a lot going on here. Looks like two ACI probes, hygrometer and another probe in the red cups soil?

The housing for the light is pretty wide. I'll have to rig up something to get the probed centered in the tent. Maybe a piece if TIG wire attached to the light with an appropriate bend to center the probe will do the job.I find the ACI probes work best hung in the middle of the tent if you can. But I do have one off to the side in one tent at the moment. If I clip my hygrometer to the ACI probe they read pretty much the same. But if in different spots like yours, especially with the door open I get different readings.
Looking good![]()
I have a LOT of room to improve on temperature control. Honestly, I can envision a small grow room wrapped in a slightly larger (more manageable than an entire basement) lung room, down the road. I need to learn what grow style I want to focus on and what I need to be successful in that type of grow space, before jumping in and doing it wrong.I get leaf issues like that in my 3x1 section. It’s usually cold and damp when it happens. I’ll get leaf issues if the fan blows on leaves too intensely or doesn’t oscillate. I’ve also noted a few strains are deformed when young but grow out of it after weeks.
Don't sell yourself short, buddy. I appreciate everything (it's a lot) you do to contribute here. I follow your grows and think, "I can't wait to grow something like that."I’m just a soil newb. Double check things with the experts. Looking good.![]()
You know, I haven't taken a deep dive into that, yet. I think I remember @CannaGranny and some others here talking about doing a 1% H2O2 soak. I looked at a couple of examples that popped up on an Internet search. I swear, both said that you want the seeds to sink and the floaters wouldn't germinate, lol. Guess that just proves you have to be careful about who you accept advice from.Don’t worry about seeds sinking or floating. You’ll find people who prefer both. I tend to like floaters but both have popped and failed over the years. Always nice when they pop though.
I have noticed a few people here who are still using these lights. I'm keeping my eyes open, but haven't searched to see what they've shared about distance between the light and the plants, yet.I don’t have any experience with lights other than LED. You’ll need to check things with them.
I did inch the light up a bit more this morning. My gut is telling me I still need to find the sweet spot for distance from the light. There's not a lot of difference in plant height, right now. I have the light pushed off center to accommodate a shorter shelf that puts more distance between the light and the seedlings.Strange you have one plant praying while the other is drooping slightly. If they are at the same hight under the same light it’s unexpected. I’d be leaning toward to much light myself. The tight nodes I usually get when my lights closer to the plant(s).

These plants will be going outside. I hope to get them fairly healthy before taking them out to harden. The two seedlings will go the distance in the tent and I plan to train those. Outdoors, I will probably go lighter on the training, but I definitely want to trellis them. High winds educated me, last year.Again check with more experienced members but I’d say the light was closer than needed and/or brighter than needed. Are you training them or just letting them do their own thing?

Ha! MacGyver would have done a better job of it while simultaneously disarming a bomb.I still haven’t fixed my other tent yet. Nice Macgyver![]()








