Silly experiments

[thebranchman]

Nah at the end of the day I had a moment of clarity and and inner voice that said "Dude, WTF are you doing?" So I didn't turn my g/room upside down.
I wasn't the first and doubt I'll be the last to try a Topsy Turvy grow though. I found some other grower pics online that show what I tried to describe by them taking a U turn to grow upwards

View attachment 1956

I see I see, still that's funny though. It would be interesting to see if it can be grown upside down but I guess the main issue would be water dripping on the lights. Definitely a no go

 

[thebranchman]

There are a few things I did there. But yes the idea is to grow my own.

Super interested into that stuff, I bet everyone here would love a thread on growing your own colonies of bacteria

 

[Garbage_bear]

dafuqe di I just watch? lol. That was some bitchn' video editing

 

[Zen_seeker]

Ok so I'm going thru a lot of my old youtube videos and finding some oldies but goodies. Some are missing though and I guess maybe deleted by youtube or censored in some way.
Some of this stuff is really out there. Like the time I built a clone machine out of a R2D2 store display cooler. The best part is that it worked very well. Enjoy

I like Star Trek and Star Wars etc. But I was never a collector or into the “stuff”. (Yes, a working light saber would be cool...look-a-likes not so much after 16.)

But that looks like it was a fun and useful repurpose. Bet you could find a nerdy grower on eBay who’d buy it.

Either way nicely done.

 

[Zen_seeker]

My wife asked me last weekend why I came to these forums? I grew fine before I came but now I’m having issues and things go wrong a lot more.

I used to joke that I might have more problems but at least I know WHY now.

But growing is easy, really. Any of us could grow a plant to flower with reasonable success in soil without knowing more than how a plant grows. But keeping it alive and healthy isn’t the same.

I’ve had to learn how to do better and then learn to apply it. I learn of the method, how, or why on places like this. I see results to ideas and thoughts I’ve had that save me time/effort. And in the end I gain a faster and more experienced grow because of what I read, share, and follow here on forums.

I find extra value in this forum if only because we listen here first rather than criticize and attack what’s different. At worst I think you’d be left alone. And that’s okay too.

 

[Bandit420]

dafuqe di I just watch? lol. That was some bitchn' video editing

I was going thru a Ken Burns on mushrooms phase in my days of making videos

 

[moe.red]

I find extra value in this forum if only because we listen here first rather than criticize and attack what’s different.

I very much dislike the keyboard cowboy mentality. It tends to come from those that need more time to evolve.

You can disagree without being a jackwagon. Sometimes you find, if you listen, you weren't actually disagreeing in the first place.

This is not some kumbaya BS, I just have zero interest in drama and online shit tossing. Some folks love it. Doesn't go well here.

 

[moe.red]

What is RDWC?

It is the proper way to grow weed.

J/k, basically it is one or more pots that make up grow sites which is plumbed to a central pot called the reservoir or res. Pump(s) circulate the water from the res to the plant sites and it flows back via gravity.

It requires parts and plumbing up front, but the benefits are higher level of control, faster problem fixing, and higher yields if done correctly.

The roots dangle in the water, which if properly oxygenated, is an incredibly healthy environment for roots.

Since this is "unnatural" the question is can it possibly be as good in terms of quality (smell, taste, etc) as organic soil? Could an expert pot smoker pick out the difference? I would like to know that answer.

 

[smoke]

It is the proper way to grow weed.

J/k, basically it is one or more pots that make up grow sites which is plumbed to a central pot called the reservoir or res. Pump(s) circulate the water from the res to the plant sites and it flows back via gravity.

It requires parts and plumbing up front, but the benefits are higher level of control, faster problem fixing, and higher yields if done correctly.

The roots dangle in the water, which if properly oxygenated, is an incredibly healthy environment for roots.

Since this is "unnatural" the question is can it possibly be as good in terms of quality (smell, taste, etc) as organic soil? Could an expert pot smoker pick out the difference? I would like to know

 

[smoke]

My room RDWC

 

[Bandit420]

RDWC? In some countries that acronym is PITA.
Sorry, couldn't resist throwing a little shade at the hydronaughts in the room

 

[moe.red]

RDWC? In some countries that acronym is PITA.
Sorry, couldn't resist throwing a little shade at the hydronaughts in the room

Maybe you need to get in on this grow off of sorts?

 

[Bandit420]

Maybe you need to get in on this grow off of sorts?

Grow off? What is it?

 

[moe.red]

Grow off? What is it?

I am growing side by side soil and hydro from clones and @CannaGranny and her 2 judge friends are gonna pick a winner. Wish you were in Missouri you could be a grower or a judge.

 

[Bandit420]

I am growing side by side soil and hydro from clones and @CannaGranny and her 2 judge friends are gonna pick a winner. Wish you were in Missouri you could be a grower or a judge.

Ah I see. How about make it forum wide contest and have teams? Growers from all over the country starting a grow at once and all compiled in a single grow diary. Teams made up of noobs and vets in both hydro and soil. Team H2O vs Team Dirt. Vets can help noobs along divulging experience to elevate their game. 1 plant entry from each team member for the comp and no switcheroos. Weekly photo updates mandatory. A plant dies or isn't ready for harvest 110 days after the start date, that grower is dq'ed. Start from seed or clone.

 

[moe.red]

Ah I see. How about make it forum wide contest and have teams? Growers from all over the country starting a grow at once and all compiled in a single grow diary. Teams made up of noobs and vets in both hydro and soil. Team H2O vs Team Dirt. Vets can help noobs along divulging experience to elevate their game. 1 plant entry from each team member for the comp and no switcheroos. Weekly photo updates mandatory. A plant dies or isn't ready for harvest 110 days after the start date, that grower is dq'ed. Start from seed or clone.

Ok when I get to a pc i will set that contest up too.

I’m sure @CannaGranny would want in on this representing Missouri in soil. I’ll take on a trainee if anyone wants to try hydro.

I think this is the perfect application for tissue culture for common genetics. I’m sure I could come up with something on that front.

This could be pretty fucking fun.

 

[thebranchman]

Could an expert pot smoker pick out the difference? I would like to know that answer.

Someone whos only smoked? I'd think probably not, but an experienced grower would be able to have some guesses I think

Ah I see. How about make it forum wide contest and have teams?

I would love to see a battle of the titans grow off.. maybe eventually even a tournament style competition with a bunch of entries

 

[thebranchman]

This is my home made setup for rdwc at the moment, current culture bulkheads working how they should be. 6 plant site, 7 bucket setup, on a wooden dolly I made. I think I may have put the buckets too close, maybe 4 or 6 more inches between would be nice, but that's what the experiment is for. The current plants are the first set im bringing to maturity with the intention to smoke some but still messing around. Theyre autoflower mutts from someone i met at a show. Im using 6 hlg 288 rspec boards over 4 plants. 24/7 light, for about 6-8 weeks they were great until flower. Before their switch to flower they were gorgeous but definitely pushing the limit, now they're getting more upset. During veg their ph would raise but now during flower it drops much faster than it would raise in veg. Lots of stuff im looking to incorporate and then change the nutrient regiment for, but I've been interested in 24/7 of light on autos for years and I want to run some tests on em. They were at 100% intensity for most of the grow. A bunch of people told me before I started this grow that it's not possible, that the plants would die. I believe if the rest of the environment is good, and everything is there in the rootzone, combined with some good foliar, that they should produce better a quality and weight yield. I don't believe that plants neccesarily need a rest period if they have in abundance of everything they'd need to stay in balance with the high dli. At least with the quality of technology at the consumer level that's readily available, I think everything can be dialed in for 24/7 operation. This is my opinion at the moment and It'll take awhile of testing and nailing down variables to change my working hypothesis. These plants are sitting in almost just raw salts, I have hydroguard and some rapid root in there as well. I've got a bit of root rot too I think it's a combination of the plants being tired and I'm manually topping off the water levels. Probably not enough of the bood bacteria in there as well. On the biggest bushy plant, up until about 3 weeks ago now it had nice messy noodley stiff white roots now they're a bit discolored and drooping. The same with the roots from the rest of the plants as well but they didn't look as nice as the biggest plant, it filled up the bucket almost. That's also when flower really kicked in for that one though. For the one that's the most crispy and hating life, I had that one where the big bushy one is now. There are 3 lights on each side, so yes that means one side is getting 3 lights on one plant. It's interesting to see the reaction in the leaf. I wish I had access to tissue analysis equipment and other testing things. Anyways the big crispy one in the middle of those two was on the other side with 3 lights until this week I just moved her over to the other side where she gets one. The big bushy plant almost immediately started showed the same reddish discoloration under the 3 leds. With my ph dropping all the time I think the plants getting mag and potassium locked out? Maybe phosphorus? I've heard that leds make the plants want more mag than usual so maybe this is my sign to use some Epsom in flower under the high dli. The end goal for this set of experiments right now is to see how high I can get my dli without horrendously disfiguring my ladies after I get all the goodies in the rootzone.

 

[thebranchman]

Same plant, the big bushy one, right under the lights then a lower branch

 

[thebranchman]

I know she's burnt and the pictures over exposed, but all these seeds were started around March 7th on the same day. I'm pretty alright with this amateur swing at these autos but I am sad that these seeds are such different phenos. For my first ever grow I did a half intensity grow with general hydro nutes, and let one male stay in the room with 5 females and pollenated the shit out of them. I got about 5k beans from em, each plant bagged separately. I believe that pheno that's doing the best is the most Strawberry cheesecake by seedman, the original parents that had the pollen chucked were (Strawberry cheesecake auto × stiches stardust auto) x sour star. Not sure on that breeder at the moment. So now these ones are those, what they call "frostberry", bred back together.

 

[thebranchman]

I know she's burnt and the pictures over exposed, but all these seeds were started around March 7th on the same day. I'm pretty alright with this amateur swing at these autos but I am sad that these seeds are such different phenos.

Very uniform development on this plant though. It looks Scrogged almost but I didn't touch it at all that's just how it grew. Looks alot like the cheesecake pictures I've seen so I assume it's that pheno. Every single top is almost the exact same size and at the same level i love the look of it besides being toasted.

 

[moe.red]

I am not an auto grower, so my feedback reflects that.

I do see significant light stress there. I feel pretty comfortable speaking about lights for photo plants. With autos? I guess that is where your experiments come in.

Since you are almost at harvest, I'm thinking just ride it out and see what you get. If you want help with a plan from the start on your next attempt, I can probably help you avoid root rot and maybe some other things. Or you can grow your own way and learn with hands on.

One thing that was a red flag for me was the aluminum foil around your seedlings. I would opt for something breathable and non-reflective there personally.

 

[thebranchman]

I am not an auto grower, so my feedback reflects that.

I do see significant light stress there. I feel pretty comfortable speaking about lights for photo plants. With autos? I guess that is where your experiments come in.

Since you are almost at harvest, I'm thinking just ride it out and see what you get. If you want help with a plan from the start on your next attempt, I can probably help you avoid root rot and maybe some other things. Or you can grow your own way and learn with hands on.

One thing that was a red flag for me was the aluminum foil around your seedlings. I would opt for something breathable and non-reflective there personally.

Definitely crazy light stress I'm pushing it past the edge to see how much they can take with the given inputs. But I definitely need advice on the root zone stuff. I've got alot of stuff in my screenshots and notes that I've wanted to look into for the "live" rdwc system. I've got a few questions I could think of right now. Like what is the best way to have an auto top off system in the bucket? I've seen those fittings with the oval float attached but it seems not as adjustable as I'd want it to be. And I'd love to know how viable those cultures are of your own orca and great white.. that would save some cash when buying all these active ingredients. It would be good to buy enough for a run and take samples to start growing my own. I love learning hands on but I take in as much information and advice as I can as well! The tin foil I just wanted up until they got big enough for me to put rocks around them they're in 3 or 4 inch net cups right now. I could take it all out today but I don't have time to run back and do it today. The root rot is definitely partly due to temp as well I'm gunna try a few runs without adding a chiller to see if the live system can beat it out at room temp. I had water temps as high as 86, 87f one day when the ac didn't kick on. The room was up to 95 plus. That also brings me to the point of what products/methods make the ideal live culture? From my limited research I've got like 30-40 different aminos, bacterias, and other things to look into already but I've seen kelp and other extracts contain alot of those things that were after. Lots to unpack on the last question potentally, you could definitely give me a short answer though too I wouldn't mind

 

[budsofmadison]

Very uniform development on this plant though. It looks Scrogged almost but I didn't touch it at all that's just how it grew. Looks alot like the cheesecake pictures I've seen so I assume it's that pheno. Every single top is almost the exact same size and at the same level i love the look of it besides being toasted.

i got 2 plants out of 5 that looks like yours how could just 2 plants have light stress ?

 

[thebranchman]

I was off for awhile my b, honestly I wouldn't have a very good guess I'd say if it had to be the plant probably just genetics but maybe there were other factors

 

[thebranchman]

Just wanted to come back for a bit and start to update on the finished plants. Im still drying and curing, I've been butchering that process but the bud will smoke even if it's not done ideally. My first 60 something day autoflower is about 120 grams, not too bad on the weight but the nug itself doesnt look very nice structure wise it's very airy. Decently frosty if I had to guess I'd say maybe 15% thc but it could be a bit lower, I'm not very accurate with that guess I don't have alot of bud tests under my belt

 

[Observer]

Iron is an example. In the case of the metal salts, a process call chelation is used which basically binds with the metal molecule and puts a costume on it so it can sneak past and into the roots.

can this be done WITH carbs?

see what im getting at?



Chelation....

 

[moe.red]

can this be done WITH carbs?

see what im getting at?



Chelation....

Don’t think so. Look up edta. I think it only works with metals but not 100%

 

[Observer]

I get bleached tips just about every grow on random tips. I'll try to find some pics.
If I haul a lb I'd say around a 1/2oz is bleached. I don't think it's more potent than any other part of the flower or lacking anything either.
I've heard of it being full of trichomes and other mystical wonders but can definitely say that's bullshit. It's just bleached and nothing more. When it dries it goes khaki brown.
Some say it means you have a baddass grow light or a light that excels in far red and infra red but that usually comes from LED peddlers on forums and I wouldn't trust anything those guys say.
I have a Purpl Pro but never used it to just test white tips. IMO there's nothing special or bad about bleached tips other than they just look weird. I kinda see them as a sign I need to raise

"Bleached" buds are a common problem in cannabis cultivation, and they are caused by a condition called photobleaching. Photobleaching occurs when cannabis plants are exposed to too much light, which causes the chlorophyll in the plant's leaves and buds to break down.


When chlorophyll breaks down, the plant's leaves and buds lose their green color and turn white or yellow. This can make the buds look less appealing and can also reduce their potency. Bleached buds may also have a lower concentration of cannabinoids and terpenes, which can diminish their medicinal and recreational :

• Light intensity:Too much light can damage the chlorophyll in the plant's leaves and buds.
  
  
• Light spectrum: The wrong type of light can also damage chlorophyll.
  
  
• Light duration: Too much light exposure can also lead to photobleaching.
  
  
• Plant genetics: Some cannabis strains are more susceptible to photobleaching than others.

1. Light Absorption: Chlorophyll molecules within the plant's cells absorb light energy, primarily in the blue and red wavelengths.
   
   
2. Energy Transfer:The absorbed energy excites the electrons within the chlorophyll molecule to a higher energy state.
   
   
3. Photosynthesis:Under normal conditions, this energy is harnessed to drive the process of photosynthesis, converting light energy into chemical energy.
   
   
4. Excess Energy: However, when plants are exposed to excessive light, the chlorophyll molecules can absorb more energy than they can efficiently process.
   
   
5. Oxidative Stress: This excess energy can lead to the formation of highly reactive oxygen species (ROS), such as singlet oxygen. These ROS are powerful oxidizing agents that can damage various cellular components, including chlorophyll.
   
   
   
6. Chlorophyll Degradation:The ROS attack the chlorophyll molecule, breaking down its chemical structure. This degradation results in the loss of chlorophyll's green color, leading to the bleached appearance.
   
   
7. Reduced Photosynthesis: As chlorophyll is degraded, the plant's ability to photosynthesize is compromised, affecting its overall health and growth.

Factors that can contribute to photobleaching include:

• High Light Intensity:Excessive light exposure can overwhelm the plant's photosynthetic capacity.
  
  
• Incorrect Light Spectrum: Light with a high proportion of blue or green wavelengths can be particularly damaging to chlorophyll.
• Insufficient Ventilation: Poor ventilation can lead to heat stress, which exacerbates the effects of excessive light.
  
  
• Genetic Predisposition: Some cannabis strains may be more susceptible to photobleaching due to their genetic makeup.