Grandpa grow!

[Skinnypuppy80]

Salutations all u b e a utiful ppl! Day 35 into flip. W my tent setup in such a small area, it's a bitch! getting in close to the far right side of the tent. Anyways, plants are still doing ok, think I could be doing better though.


Not sure if the ends of leaves are light or nute burn, maybe nute? My 840w led is at 80%, and ppms(500) stays around 450. They r only drinking about 3gal a day(4 sites in mid flower.) I'm thinking of dialing back the light to 70% and c if that helps. My ph has consistently been dropping .3 - .4 in 24hrs, should I be looking at this consistent drop as a sign to change something? Also, mid 2 late flower I should have vpd around 1.2 - 1.4, yes?

Sorry to bother you ganja masters out there but would appreciate any and all thoughts, suggestions! @moe.red @smoke @GrumpAzz @Observer @Aqua Man @MiGrampa and all the others!

 

[MiGrampa]

Salutations all u b e a utiful ppl! Day 35 into flip. W my tent setup in such a small area, it's a bitch! getting in close to the far right side of the tent. Anyways, plants are still doing ok, think I could be doing better though.
View attachment 102665View attachment 102666View attachment 102667View attachment 102668View attachment 102669

Not sure if the ends of leaves are light or nute burn, maybe nute? My 840w led is at 80%, and ppms(500) stays around 450. They r only drinking about 3gal a day(4 sites in mid flower.) I'm thinking of dialing back the light to 70% and c if that helps. My ph has consistently been dropping .3 - .4 in 24hrs, should I be looking at this consistent drop as a sign to change something? Also, mid 2 late flower I should have vpd around 1.2 - 1.4, yes?

Sorry to bother you ganja masters out there but would appreciate any and all thoughts, suggestions! @moe.red @smoke @GrumpAzz @Observer @Aqua Man @MiGrampa and all the others!

I would dial back the light for one simple reason ... It slows down photosynthesis a bit and can buy you the time you need to sort through things. While maybe not every single leaf looks perfect, over-all your vegetation looks very good! The nice thing about lowering your light intensity is once you have things worked out, its easy to raise the intensity again.

 

[GrumpAzz]

First of all.. I feel honored to be lumped into the "Ganja Masters" group. I'm flattered.

Not sure if the ends of leaves are light or nute burn, maybe nute? My 840w led is at 80%, and ppms(500) stays around 450. They r only drinking about 3gal a day(4 sites in mid flower.)

I'd say 3/4 of a gallon per plant per day is pretty normal at this stage of flower. You're basically halfway through flower so that tracks. I'm guessing they'll increase their uptake to a gallon or more per plant in the next couple weeks.

I'm thinking of dialing back the light to 70% and c if that helps. My ph has consistently been dropping .3 - .4 in 24hrs, should I be looking at this consistent drop as a sign to change something?

450 ppm doesn't seem too high but a falling pH would suggest that they're drinking more than they're eating. Maybe you're ratios have gotten out of wack. I do see a bit of tip-burn that may also suggest too high EC, but it's not bad burn at all.

Like @MiGrampa said, overall, your plants are looking pretty good, but if you're worried about it, lower your light intensity for a few days while you get it figured out.

When was the last time you did a res change? Also, what nutes are you using and at what ratios? There could be an imbalance preventing uptake of one or more nutrients.

Also, mid 2 late flower I should have vpd around 1.2 - 1.4, yes?

Sounds good to me. Anything over 1 and under 1.6 should grow some decent buds.

-------

Looking good, bro. You're over the hump and almost into the home stretch. Hopefully another one of those fellas can chime in as well.

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

@GrumpAzz Ganja Master, of course duh

I did my 2nd change 6 days ago. As for the nutes, I'm using a complicated way of feeding em which I plan on changing once I use up all/most of the "unnecessary"? bottles of nutes and just use gh trio and calmag. Below r the nutes I add into gal jugs and than add that to the system to get the required nutes. But yeah, I wanna say that's nute burn and I'm just flushing money down the drain


My canopy is nowhere near even. The light is at a 35° tilt and the plants that r even further below the light r showing the yellow tips. I'll drop ppms down a bit.
Thanks for the input!! It's my first grow utilizing the whole tent. My only other grow was this 5x5 tent w the 4 13gal site pa fallponics system. In the sites I had fem white widow. 1 was a straight male, the other 3 hermed. I also squeezed in a dwc auto that was already flowering. It ended up herming but was the only 1 I brought to the finish line and got +10oz.

 

[GrumpAzz]

Yeah that's a lot of bottles to be messing with. I bought a bunch of the GH lineup when I first started and most of those bottles remain unopened.

I'm not familiar with TPS Silica so I'm not sure how strong of a buffer it develops. It's potassium silicate, so that's good. It's probably just a diluted version of what a lot of folks run, which is Agsil 16, a powdered form of it.

I don't want to tell you to stop using all the extra bottles. I get how it's seen as a waste. Overall your plants are doing good. We're just having ph issues. I've been there as well with daily adjustments. It gets frustrating.

I guess i'll advise to just stay the course with what you've been doing for now. If the plants seem to take a turn for the worst, maybe we'll need to figure something out. What I think is happening, is that with all the adjustments with pH Up, you've added too much potassium at this point, which may be reacting poorly with another nutrient leading to an imbalance. However, if the pH dives too hard or seems to be getting out of control, you may want to do a res change. Maybe more frequent res changes could help keep it from running away from ya.

@moe.red, any advice?

 

[moe.red]

Hey skinny sorry for being old and slow. Thanks @GrumpAzz for tagging me back in.

I need to get to a big screen so I can peep these plants a bit better. But it sounds like your question is about burned tips primarily and a hard down ph trend correct? If so I’m guessing they are symptoms of the same problem.

Ph should not require daily adjustment. So yeah we need to unpack what’s happening here and treat the root cause.

I’ll be back in a few hours and will get to a pc. I need to look closer before I say more. If you are online and have any specific things you want me to consider post them up.

 

[MiGrampa]

Hey skinny sorry for being old and slow. Thanks @GrumpAzz for tagging me back in.

I need to get to a big screen so I can peep these plants a bit better. But it sounds like your question is about burned tips primarily and a hard down ph trend correct? If so I’m guessing they are symptoms of the same problem.

Ph should not require daily adjustment. So yeah we need to unpack what’s happening here and treat the root cause.

I’ll be back in a few hours and will get to a pc. I need to look closer before I say more. If you are online and have any specific things you want me to consider post them up.

@moe.red I could be wrong because I'm not a hydro grower. However, if pH is fluctuating daily ... isn't that a sign to look at the RO buffering routine? Buffering RO is a balancing act. If the processed is rushed and not allowed enough time to stabilize, wouldn't that contribute to the problem he's seeing?

I bring this up because there's a routing using both pH up and down ... and time ... to reach a pH stable mix in the proper pH range. My premise is if it starts stable, it should remain stable longer despite the ebb and flow of the dissolved nutrients in the feed solution.

 

[GrumpAzz]

@moe.red I could be wrong because I'm not a hydro grower. However, if pH is fluctuating daily ... isn't that a sign to look at the RO buffering routine? Buffering RO is a balancing act. If the processed is rushed and not allowed enough time to stabilize, wouldn't that contribute to the problem he's seeing?

Yeah that's why I mentioned the TPS Silica. I can't really tell from his feedchart and not having experience with that particular silica product, but he might benefit from upping his dosage.

@Skinnypuppy80, when you first add your TPS Silica, what does the pH of your system rise to? I add my silica product first until I see an initial pH of 9-10. Then a heavy dose of pH Down to bring it back to 5.8-6.2. That helps create the buffer that @MiGrampa mentioned. It will eventually lose it's effectiveness as time goes on.

Establish that buffer before adding any nutes.

 

[moe.red]

@GrumpAzz Ganja Master, of course duh

I did my 2nd change 6 days ago. As for the nutes, I'm using a complicated way of feeding em which I plan on changing once I use up all/most of the "unnecessary"? bottles of nutes and just use gh trio and calmag. Below r the nutes I add into gal jugs and than add that to the system to get the required nutes. But yeah, I wanna say that's nute burn and I'm just flushing money down the drain
View attachment 102705

My canopy is nowhere near even. The light is at a 35° tilt and the plants that r even further below the light r showing the yellow tips. I'll drop ppms down a bit.
Thanks for the input!! It's my first grow utilizing the whole tent. My only other grow was this 5x5 tent w the 4 13gal site pa fallponics system. In the sites I had fem white widow. 1 was a straight male, the other 3 hermed. I also squeezed in a dwc auto that was already flowering. It ended up herming but was the only 1 I brought to the finish line and got +10oz.

OK man, sorry I abandoned you for a while. Thursday was my last official day at work. Been super busy during the transition. Now I have garage full of welders and tools and 2 decades of crap being stored / used at the job that I am sorting thru and selling off. Got a ton of extra hydro stuff if you need anything. I've taken apart more hydroponics systems than I care to admit. Always trying to squeeze just a little bit more out of my grows. It's a sickness, I know. I'm seeking professional help

So good news you got some weed. Fuck yeah. Not everybody does.

Growing side to side in the grow space is the goal. No issues there except harder to reach without access to the back. This is my son’s current grow he’s learning too

View attachment IMG_5310.mov


This one got away from us with 2 extra weeks of veg because of a timer malfunction. Too tall. I’ll make it work.

My ppm is 250 on the 500 scale. It gets to a high of 500 but happy place is 350. 250 means time to feed.

At this stage, I start with RO at <20PPM and add cal-mag to 150. That takes care of early flower and all the N it needs at this stage.
Add the pink stuff to 250 - 275 range.
Add the brown stuff (micro) to 350. That's a bit more N in that.
Now I add the green stuff based on what the plants are telling me. Sometimes none. Usually no more than 400ppm

I am constantly topping off with RO to keep the water level stable. This means the PPM lowers over time. You probably are not doing that, so the EC trend has a different meaning in your system, but the plant requirements are the same.

Thats it for this stage. Early flower.

I have not added any PH up or down in over 2 weeks. As we look deeper at your grow I'll explain how to do that.

For you,



RED - I'm reading you have PLENTY of N in there. Dark green, very shiny, and leaves tending to curl down on the edges rather than praying up.
Pink - is this the tip burn you are asking about?
Blue - petioles are different color based on access to photons. They are getting a tan where light hits them directly, and staying green in the shade. You can use this as a visual way to tune lights in some strains. Looks like what you are running is a good candidate.

Purple comes from anthocyanins. They are a flavonoid that has no positive impact on final product. If you are getting just the petioles turning color, it CAN mean you are getting too much light, too much UVA, or EC is too high. It can also be fine. What I see here is normal for pushing a little with PPFD. I see no alarms to back down the lights. That can change but right now I would leave it alone to minimize variables.

@moe.red I could be wrong because I'm not a hydro grower. However, if pH is fluctuating daily ... isn't that a sign to look at the RO buffering routine? Buffering RO is a balancing act. If the processed is rushed and not allowed enough time to stabilize, wouldn't that contribute to the problem he's seeing?

I bring this up because there's a routing using both pH up and down ... and time ... to reach a pH stable mix in the proper pH range. My premise is if it starts stable, it should remain stable longer despite the ebb and flow of the dissolved nutrients in the feed solution.

PH fluctuating daily is OK within a range.

5.5 - 6.5 is totally fine.

If you have to constantly make adjustments to keep it in that range, something is wrong.

Go to best case scenario - plants maintain that range with only the addition of nutes. That's what I have in that video. Healthy plants photosynthesizing properly are feeding the bennies carbohydrates. The bennies in turn help stabilize the PH.

• Environmental Control:
  Beneficial microbes can naturally regulate environmental conditions, including pH. They can help control harmful pathogens, which can release acids during decomposition and lower pH levels.
  
  
• Stress Reduction:
  
  Beneficial bacteria can reduce stress on plants, making them more resilient and able to maintain a stable pH.​
  
  ^^thanks AI

So what we are looking for is a balance. It's a lot like riding a bike or those damn hoverboard. Once you actually hit the sweet spot you wonder why you were making it so friggin hard. Steep learning curve.


Number 1 cause of PH trend down is decomposing roots or other organics. That's why we need to take it seriously. If the roots look like the ones @GrumpAzz just posted on his thread we need to look elsewhere for the ph issue. Next stop is water chemistry. Time to get simple with the bottles I think. But lets hear about or better yet see pics of the plants and roots today if you can. Focus on any areas you are concerned about.

 

[moe.red]

Establish that buffer before adding any nutes.

this is good advice. @Skinnypuppy80 can you explain how you go about top offs. and how you mix for them. Source water parameters.

 

[smoke]

At this stage, I start with RO at <20PPM and add cal-mag to 150. That takes care of early flower and all the N it needs at this stage.
Add the pink stuff to 250 - 275 range.
Add the brown stuff (micro) to 350. That's a bit more N in that.
Now I add the green stuff based on what the plants are telling me. Sometimes none. Usually no more than 400ppm

Helper always said to add the micro first

 

[moe.red]

Helper always said to add the micro first

Yeah there are reasons to go both ways.

If you have a ph swing when adding micro the metals precipitate out. The ph is set at 5.8 in the bottle.

If you are using the other nutes to help you set ph (those bottles are buffered to 5.8 as well) like I do, getting the res to 5.8 first makes sense. I use cal mag and green or pink to get the res ph stable then add in micro slowly.

Adding micros before grow or bloom (after cal - mag) if you are already at 5.8 ph in the res is the correct way.

Got a video showing nute precipitation somewhere I'll dig up.

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

when you first add your TPS Silica, what does the pH of your system rise to?

So I basically just add all of those bottles, in that order, to a gal of RO + 2ml hydroguard, and add that jug into the rez till I get the desired ppm. Then I'll add ph up to get to 5.9. I've been thinking about abandoning that way of adding nutes and just go w trio and calmag. They went in the system 3/21 and ph was stable until 5/8 when I noticed it would start dropping .2-.3 in a day. The dropping seems to have gotten worse, I brought it up to 6.2 about 22hrs ago and it's at 5.7 now. Been going through a decent amount of ph up to keep it around 5.9
I'm pretty sure the tip burns r nute burns? At 1 point for a couple of weeks the ppm was up to 600(500). Could the high ppm caused an imbalance? I dunno, I did a rez change on the 17th and kept the ppm around 450 which is still probably too high.
I'm not really liking the root color, they r tannish/beige colored but could that be from high nute concentration staining em?

Otherwise the plants r looking good and I noticed today the bud sites are getting plumper and starting to fill out


I have a 55gal ro barrel fed by an undersink ispring rcc7 and the water is 0 ppms and 7.3 ph. I use a garden hose(probably not a good idea?)from the bottom spigot to fill/topoff the rez and add hydroguard. I may go a day b4 topping off but usually try to do it daily as they r drinking around 3gal a day, I added 3.6 gal yesterday. My water temps r at 71/72. If I left out anything, I'll be happy to respond. This ph dropping is concerning me, I'm messing up somehow and want to get it corrected b4 I mess up the ladies!
Trying to tag @moe.red so I don't have to retype this but it's not coming up with that autofill thing after the @ sign.

 

[moe.red]

Those roots look good. If you were running 4 bottles at lower EC they would be whiter. I think you are seeing some iron causing them to be a little dark. What I am not seeing is evidence of roots disintegrating or rotting in any way. They all look like they are actively vascular, no dead zones, not dark clumps where water does not flow thru crating a low O2 pocket for anerobic activity.

Based on that one picture, I would think your PH issue is water chemistry, not the plant causing it.

Everything is super dark green. I think your EC is unbalanced more than too high. If properly balanced, the actual PPM number is not as important. All else being equal a 350PPM grow vs. 450PPM grow should not be noticeable.

This gets deep fast, but imbalances are easy to make and effect the plants in different ways. The plant will try to suck up excesses to some molecules, and actively filter out other ions. For example, N is a luxury molecule

In plant biology, the concept of "luxury uptake" refers to a plant's absorption of nutrients, such as nitrogen, in excess of its immediate needs for growth and metabolism. This uptake doesn't necessarily result in a noticeable increase in biomass or yield, but rather leads to increased storage of the nutrient within the plant. For example, a plant might take up more nitrogen than it needs to build proteins or chlorophyll, and the excess is stored in its roots or other tissues. (from AI)

All that N in an unbalanced system can lead to N Toxicity.

It gets deeper fast - like mulders chart and how one nute will block or aid another. I'll not go too far atm but I would think that re-balancing the res is a good thing with a goal to take out half of the N.

At this stage in the plant life it's need for N is decreasing.

TLDR: I think the PH issue is related to the chemistry in the res and what you are adding more than plant / rhizosphere participation. I recommend you flush the res and build it back up with half the N and a lower overall PPM. And simplify down to the 4 basics.

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

I recommend you flush the res and build it back up with half the N and a lower overall PPM.

Yeah, I was thinking I'm gonna need to flush and start off anew using only calmag and the trio. It's really nice to have that confirmation though. So I should also do the buffer thing first right? Right after the new ro goes in, add the silica to get to 9ph, use ph down to 5.9, then calmag and trio. I am out of hydroguard atm and will b using king crab, in what order do I add that? I've usually added bennies in last, is that a bad practice?
Congrats on the retirement!! That's gotta be a crazy cool feeling to have that freedom, awesome man!

U mentioned you have extra gear u r willing to sell? I'm thinking of using my 2x4 for veg in dwc. For that I'd b looking for a light, an extra aci circ fan, maybe a 69 controller(i may have one of those stashed away already,) and maybe a link to those net cup cradles? that allows you to transfer the net cups from one system to the next. Also would love to get a real time constant ph/ppm/temp system going. Should I just get a guardian or get some probes, a board, screen and use my pi5?

A big thank you to this community, I'd b way less successful without it! U all r really helpful and really cool

 

[moe.red]

So I should also do the buffer thing first right? Right after the new ro goes in, add the silica to get to 9ph, use ph down to 5.9, then calmag and trio. I am out of hydroguard atm and will b using king crab, in what order do I add that? I've usually added bennies in last, is that a bad practice?

I don't like to build the buffer that way on an active grow. That recipe you are referencing is for 1 of 2 options

Starting up a new grow from a dry res
ability to mix and manage a 100% res change outside your system.

How many gals total are you running?

I am out of hydroguard atm and will b using king crab, in what order do I add that?

Last is correct. That said, you have a colony by now so no need to keep adding. The colony will only grow as big as the food source will allow. That food source is your plant feeding them carbs thru the roots. Adding more spores at this point only adds organic material to become waste. If there was more food available, the existing colony would grow way faster than anything from spores. So the spores would wake up due to the correct environment only to starve.

and maybe a link to those net cup cradles?

Do you have a 3D printer?

ACI was about to release the hydro probes for the ACI controller last time i looked. I think if you are going down the ACI path, stick with it and add those probes.

Actually, it is still pending, but should be out this quarter?

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

How many gals total are you running?

I wanna say 47-48 gals.

Do you have a 3D printer?

I do not but know 2 ppl that do

Actually, it is still pending, but should be out this quarter?

Wasn't aware of that so I'll just sit tight for now till they come out. I was thinking of the guardian and should've got that from the start instead of the individual blue lab pens.... oh well.

 

[GrumpAzz]

ACI was about to release the hydro probes for the ACI controller last time i looked. I think if you are going down the ACI path, stick with it and add those probes.

Actually, it is still pending, but should be out this quarter?

This.. is.. sweet..

Browsing their website, I see a lot of things going on my wishlist. If I could have everything controlled by one app on my phone I would be sooo happy.

Year or two tops and I'll be building some permanent rooms and ditching the tent. This stuff is damn cool. There'll be plenty of reviews done by then, too.

Hydroponics & Growers - CONTROLLERS - AI Controllers and Sensors - AC Infinity

acinfinity.com

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

If I could have everything controlled by one app on my phone I would be sooo happy.

Yeah, it's convenient. Dunno how, but will have to find a way to upgrade my controller(69+pro atm) to the Ai controller so I can get the hydro sensor. It would be sooo nice to b able to monitor real time water conditions w/out breaking out the pens. The conductivity bluelab I have is quick and easy, but the ph one I have takes 1-2 mns b4 the reading gets stable.
I currently have everything connected to my 69+pro, 4 6" circulating fans, 6" exhaust, t7 humidifier, and the mammoth mint 8.

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

So, an update on my ph issue. I turned my light up to 80% yesterday which got the temp up to 80° and today the ph had only dropped .1 compared to yesterday's drop of .5 Dunno if the air temp had anything to do w anything but not gonna mess with it now I think. Just gonna check on em and look for signs of light stress over the upcoming days. The air temps maybe got up to 72° w lights on b4. I dunno plants r still looking good? Noticed these weird new growth today, is this normal?


I'm referring to the small, round, lime green leafs on the top

 

[GrumpAzz]

Yeah, it's convenient. Dunno how, but will have to find a way to upgrade my controller(69+pro atm) to the Ai controller so I can get the hydro sensor. It would be sooo nice to b able to monitor real time water conditions w/out breaking out the pens. The conductivity bluelab I have is quick and easy, but the ph one I have takes 1-2 mns b4 the reading gets stable.
I currently have everything connected to my 69+pro, 4 6" circulating fans, 6" exhaust, t7 humidifier, and the mammoth mint 8.

Yeah I've got the 69 pro and a bluelab wifi monitor and it's the bee's knees. AC infinity has their shit figured out. I'll go the AI route when I upgrade also. Seems like 1 controller could run 2 rooms easy. Adding the pH and ppfd/co2 meter to the same app would be as good as it gets.

-------

I can't speak for the rounded leaves up top. Haven't seen that before. Maybe someone else has some info.

 

[Observer]

So, an update on my ph issue. I turned my light up to 80% yesterday which got the temp up to 80° and today the ph had only dropped .1 compared to yesterday's drop of .5 Dunno if the air temp had anything to do w anything but not gonna mess with it now I think. Just gonna check on em and look for signs of light stress over the upcoming days. The air temps maybe got up to 72° w lights on b4. I dunno plants r still looking good? Noticed these weird new growth today, is this normal?
View attachment 103075
View attachment 103076
I'm referring to the small, round, lime green leafs on the top

I'd turn the light back down to what is was, and reduce Nitrogen.

 

[Rootsruler]

The grow looks amazing!

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

Seems like 1 controller could run 2 rooms easy. Adding the pH and ppfd/co2 meter to the same app would be as good as it gets.

Yeah, like 32 ports I think?

 

[Bandit420]

So, an update on my ph issue. I turned my light up to 80% yesterday which got the temp up to 80° and today the ph had only dropped .1 compared to yesterday's drop of .5 Dunno if the air temp had anything to do w anything but not gonna mess with it now I think. Just gonna check on em and look for signs of light stress over the upcoming days. The air temps maybe got up to 72° w lights on b4. I dunno plants r still looking good? Noticed these weird new growth today, is this normal?
View attachment 103075
View attachment 103076
I'm referring to the small, round, lime green leafs on the top

Normal? No

I'd say one of two things...a mutant or it got hit with enough light to interrupt a continuous 12 hour dark period and flipped her back to veg and now she's trying to figure it.
Is it an autoflower? Breeding in autos can be very sketchy and results like this are more common than not

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

Normal? No

I'd say one of two things...a mutant or it got hit with enough light to interrupt a continuous 12 hour dark period and flipped her back to veg and now she's trying to figure it.
Is it an autoflower? Breeding in autos can be very sketchy and results like this are more common than not

Its a photo gorilla roadkill, 1 of 2 is only doing it. There is also 2 dantes inferno in the tent which r not showing that growth.
Small lime colored leafs

Other gorilla in the same system

 

[Observer]

Mutation?

 

[steamroller]

Looked like early foxtails to me.

 

[MiGrampa]

How hot is the grow tent during lights on? How close to the light on the affected buds?

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

Salutations all! Day 42 into flip

How hot is the grow tent during lights on? How close to the light on the affected buds?

Temps get anywhere from 72-80 lights on. Humidity has still been pretty high,up to like 66% or so. I'm finally gonna start venting outside to help w that.

Because of the uneven canopy, the tallest cola on that weird leaf plant is only 14" below compared to the tallest cola on the shortest plant is 27" below. I turned down the intensity to 60% from 80% just the other day

Finally getting around to the system change, do I just do 150ppm for calmag, and then 1/4 to 1/2 of the suggestions off the trio bottles? They are six weeks into flip to the day. @moe.red @smoke

Pics of the tallest plant w the lime green small leaves

 

[smoke]

Salutations all! Day 42 into flip

Temps get anywhere from 72-80 lights on. Humidity has still been pretty high,up to like 66% or so. I'm finally gonna start venting outside to help w that.

Because of the uneven canopy, the tallest cola on that weird leaf plant is only 14" below compared to the tallest cola on the shortest plant is 27" below. I turned down the intensity to 60% from 80% just the other day

Finally getting around to the system change, do I just do 150ppm for calmag, and then 1/4 to 1/2 of the suggestions off the trio bottles? They are six weeks into flip to the day. @moe.red @smoke
View attachment 103653View attachment 103654
Pics of the tallest plant w the lime green small leaves
View attachment 103655View attachment 103656

Calma⁵g needs should be going down.
I feed 180 ppm calmag to finish.
Your plants needed more calmag last month.,re sarated tips .

If mine is would add equal parts of the 3 jugs to 400 to 450 ppms and see what they eating in a day

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

Still having ph issues even after the res change on the 30th. I added some tps silica yesterday to the already present calmag and trio, hopefully that was a good move?

Another weird thing that I noticed today....

Is that a bean? I removed something similar today but a little larger than that. It was squishy. I have been constantly looking for signs of herms, so I do not seen any other signs of nuts...

 

[MiGrampa]

Still having ph issues even after the res change on the 30th. I added some tps silica yesterday to the already present calmag and trio, hopefully that was a good move?

Another weird thing that I noticed today....
View attachment 103934View attachment 103935
Is that a bean? I removed something similar today but a little larger than that. It was squishy. I have been constantly looking for signs of herms, so I do not seen any other signs of nuts...

I can say this ... I have harvested 7 of my 9 plants. All that are left are the Gorilla Roadkill. I found a hermie flower right smack in the middle of a LemonGrass ... the cultivar I did not send you ... and harvested that plant right away. So far, no hermies in the GRK or the Dante's Inferno ... no seeds in the Dante's Inferno. I have been smoking that.

If you find you have another round with hermies, we will need to take a close look at your setup. Some lights have LEDs that remain on during lights out. They are usually green which many claim don't disrupt the dark cycle ... but I think that is hogwash. Newer studies show green is indeed used in plant growth even though the majority of the spectrum is reflected by the plant (what makes the plant look green) ... so if you have hermies. We need to look carefully for light leaks and environmental controls. The cuttings have shown no sign of hermaphroditism for me.

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

I can say this ... I have harvested 7 of my 9 plants. All that are left are the Gorilla Roadkill. I found a hermie flower right smack in the middle of a LemonGrass ... the cultivar I did not send you ... and harvested that plant right away. So far, no hermies in the GRK or the Dante's Inferno ... no seeds in the Dante's Inferno. I have been smoking that.

If you find you have another round with hermies, we will need to take a close look at your setup. Some lights have LEDs that remain on during lights out. They are usually green which many claim don't disrupt the dark cycle ... but I think that is hogwash. Newer studies show green is indeed used in plant growth even though the majority of the spectrum is reflected by the plant (what makes the plant look green) ... so if you have hermies. We need to look carefully for light leaks and environmental controls. The cuttings have shown no sign of hermaphroditism for me.

Hey guy!!! I have no doubt what I got from u was anything less than good quality! Its only the 2 possible seeds? on one of the Dante's Inferno. No signs of nuts near the stems... I have maybe 2-3 weeks left b4 the axe comes out

That's funny u brought up the green diode thing as my expensive ass led is a mammoth 8 mint, which has green diodes. My last round though took way less time to herm though if that is the problem. Being a newb and all, I'd bet, if it is an issue, it was something I messed up
I'll have to take a peak at it during lights out and see if the green diodes r lit up. Or I may have stressed them out too much w the ph fluctuations. I also recently moved the light schedule forward an hr, dunno if that equates to anything.

Thanks again for the help man!!! I've been super pleased w these plants and am looking forward to harvesting them!! It was really cool of u to help me out w them! I was a complete stranger and you reached out to help, I appreciate you!

 

[MiGrampa]

Hey guy!!! I have no doubt what I got from u was anything less than good quality! Its only the 2 possible seeds? on one of the Dante's Inferno. No signs of nuts near the stems... I have maybe 2-3 weeks left b4 the axe comes out

That's funny u brought up the green diode thing as my expensive ass led is a mammoth 8 mint, which has green diodes. My last round though took way less time to herm though if that is the problem. Being a newb and all, I'd bet, if it is an issue, it was something I messed up
I'll have to take a peak at it during lights out and see if the green diodes r lit up. Or I may have stressed them out too much w the ph fluctuations. I also recently moved the light schedule forward an hr, dunno if that equates to anything.

Thanks again for the help man!!! I've been super pleased w these plants and am looking forward to harvesting them!! It was really cool of u to help me out w them! I was a complete stranger and you reached out to help, I appreciate you!

I may have come across differently than what I meant ... I'm 100% onboard in finding out what is triggering this. My Nanolux 630 watt light has those green LED displays and when I ran it through my UIS system by AC Infinity, the lights would turn off on queue but the green lights would remain on. I quickly moved to an outlet timer that cuts all power to the lamp so lights of really means lights off.

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

@MiGrampa I also am running my light through UIS. It's something I wanna check out though. Appreciate the feedback, I'm still a bumbling idiot at growing lol

 

[MiGrampa]

@MiGrampa I also am running my light through UIS. It's something I wanna check out though. Appreciate the feedback, I'm still a bumbling idiot at growing lol

I have a feeling that you'll find the green light remains on when controlled by the UIS. Smart outlet timers are your answer.

 

[OLDCRO]

I have a feeling that you'll find the green light remains on when controlled by the UIS. Smart outlet timers are your answer.

Piece of duct tape works wonders

 

[MiGrampa]

Piece of duct tape works wonders

I've done that too. As long as the light is gone, that is what matters.

 

[moe.red]

If you think it is a seed pop it off and dissect it.

Ph dropping is usually caused by too much bubbling, the opposite where dissolved gasses are out of whack, or the most likely cause is organics being broken down.

I try to not run silica deep into flower. Especially if you are smoking flower. It changes the texture of the bud is the best way I can say it.

Stoney recently had an overnight change with ph when he sterilized the res and supply water. He was always drifting down and now is stable. That’s the organics decaying argument. I’d put my money on that. At this point in the grow the colony did its job so if you agree it might be organics dose it with h2o2.