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Helper always said to add the micro first
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Grandpa grow!
- Thread starter Skinnypuppy80
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Helper always said to add the micro first
moe.red
hydro helper
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Yeah there are reasons to go both ways.
If you have a ph swing when adding micro the metals precipitate out. The ph is set at 5.8 in the bottle.
If you are using the other nutes to help you set ph (those bottles are buffered to 5.8 as well) like I do, getting the res to 5.8 first makes sense. I use cal mag and green or pink to get the res ph stable then add in micro slowly.
Adding micros before grow or bloom (after cal - mag) if you are already at 5.8 ph in the res is the correct way.
Got a video showing nute precipitation somewhere I'll dig up.
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So I basically just add all of those bottles, in that order, to a gal of RO + 2ml hydroguard, and add that jug into the rez till I get the desired ppm. Then I'll add ph up to get to 5.9. I've been thinking about abandoning that way of adding nutes and just go w trio and calmag. They went in the system 3/21 and ph was stable until 5/8 when I noticed it would start dropping .2-.3 in a day. The dropping seems to have gotten worse, I brought it up to 6.2 about 22hrs ago and it's at 5.7 now. Been going through a decent amount of ph up to keep it around 5.9
I'm pretty sure the tip burns r nute burns? At 1 point for a couple of weeks the ppm was up to 600(500). Could the high ppm caused an imbalance? I dunno, I did a rez change on the 17th and kept the ppm around 450 which is still probably too high.
I'm not really liking the root color, they r tannish/beige colored but could that be from high nute concentration staining em?
Otherwise the plants r looking good and I noticed today the bud sites are getting plumper and starting to fill out
I have a 55gal ro barrel fed by an undersink ispring rcc7 and the water is 0 ppms and 7.3 ph. I use a garden hose(probably not a good idea?)from the bottom spigot to fill/topoff the rez and add hydroguard. I may go a day b4 topping off but usually try to do it daily as they r drinking around 3gal a day, I added 3.6 gal yesterday. My water temps r at 71/72. If I left out anything, I'll be happy to respond. This ph dropping is concerning me, I'm messing up somehow and want to get it corrected b4 I mess up the ladies!
Trying to tag @moe.red so I don't have to retype this but it's not coming up with that autofill thing after the @ sign.
moe.red
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Those roots look good. If you were running 4 bottles at lower EC they would be whiter. I think you are seeing some iron causing them to be a little dark. What I am not seeing is evidence of roots disintegrating or rotting in any way. They all look like they are actively vascular, no dead zones, not dark clumps where water does not flow thru crating a low O2 pocket for anerobic activity.
Based on that one picture, I would think your PH issue is water chemistry, not the plant causing it.
Everything is super dark green. I think your EC is unbalanced more than too high. If properly balanced, the actual PPM number is not as important. All else being equal a 350PPM grow vs. 450PPM grow should not be noticeable.
This gets deep fast, but imbalances are easy to make and effect the plants in different ways. The plant will try to suck up excesses to some molecules, and actively filter out other ions. For example, N is a luxury molecule
In plant biology, the concept of "luxury uptake" refers to a plant's absorption of nutrients, such as nitrogen, in excess of its immediate needs for growth and metabolism. This uptake doesn't necessarily result in a noticeable increase in biomass or yield, but rather leads to increased storage of the nutrient within the plant. For example, a plant might take up more nitrogen than it needs to build proteins or chlorophyll, and the excess is stored in its roots or other tissues. (from AI)
All that N in an unbalanced system can lead to N Toxicity.
It gets deeper fast - like mulders chart and how one nute will block or aid another. I'll not go too far atm but I would think that re-balancing the res is a good thing with a goal to take out half of the N.
At this stage in the plant life it's need for N is decreasing.
TLDR: I think the PH issue is related to the chemistry in the res and what you are adding more than plant / rhizosphere participation. I recommend you flush the res and build it back up with half the N and a lower overall PPM. And simplify down to the 4 basics.
Based on that one picture, I would think your PH issue is water chemistry, not the plant causing it.
Everything is super dark green. I think your EC is unbalanced more than too high. If properly balanced, the actual PPM number is not as important. All else being equal a 350PPM grow vs. 450PPM grow should not be noticeable.
This gets deep fast, but imbalances are easy to make and effect the plants in different ways. The plant will try to suck up excesses to some molecules, and actively filter out other ions. For example, N is a luxury molecule
In plant biology, the concept of "luxury uptake" refers to a plant's absorption of nutrients, such as nitrogen, in excess of its immediate needs for growth and metabolism. This uptake doesn't necessarily result in a noticeable increase in biomass or yield, but rather leads to increased storage of the nutrient within the plant. For example, a plant might take up more nitrogen than it needs to build proteins or chlorophyll, and the excess is stored in its roots or other tissues. (from AI)
All that N in an unbalanced system can lead to N Toxicity.
It gets deeper fast - like mulders chart and how one nute will block or aid another. I'll not go too far atm but I would think that re-balancing the res is a good thing with a goal to take out half of the N.
At this stage in the plant life it's need for N is decreasing.
TLDR: I think the PH issue is related to the chemistry in the res and what you are adding more than plant / rhizosphere participation. I recommend you flush the res and build it back up with half the N and a lower overall PPM. And simplify down to the 4 basics.
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Yeah, I was thinking I'm gonna need to flush and start off anew using only calmag and the trio. It's really nice to have that confirmation though. So I should also do the buffer thing first right? Right after the new ro goes in, add the silica to get to 9ph, use ph down to 5.9, then calmag and trio. I am out of hydroguard atm and will b using king crab, in what order do I add that? I've usually added bennies in last, is that a bad practice?
Congrats on the retirement!! That's gotta be a crazy cool feeling to have that freedom, awesome man!
U mentioned you have extra gear u r willing to sell? I'm thinking of using my 2x4 for veg in dwc. For that I'd b looking for a light, an extra aci circ fan, maybe a 69 controller(i may have one of those stashed away already,) and maybe a link to those net cup cradles? that allows you to transfer the net cups from one system to the next. Also would love to get a real time constant ph/ppm/temp system going. Should I just get a guardian or get some probes, a board, screen and use my pi5?
A big thank you to this community, I'd b way less successful without it! U all r really helpful and really cool
moe.red
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I don't like to build the buffer that way on an active grow. That recipe you are referencing is for 1 of 2 options
Starting up a new grow from a dry res
ability to mix and manage a 100% res change outside your system.
How many gals total are you running?
Last is correct. That said, you have a colony by now so no need to keep adding. The colony will only grow as big as the food source will allow. That food source is your plant feeding them carbs thru the roots. Adding more spores at this point only adds organic material to become waste. If there was more food available, the existing colony would grow way faster than anything from spores. So the spores would wake up due to the correct environment only to starve.
Do you have a 3D printer?
ACI was about to release the hydro probes for the ACI controller last time i looked. I think if you are going down the ACI path, stick with it and add those probes.
Actually, it is still pending, but should be out this quarter?
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I wanna say 47-48 gals.
I do not but know 2 ppl that do
Wasn't aware of that so I'll just sit tight for now till they come out. I was thinking of the guardian and should've got that from the start instead of the individual blue lab pens.... oh well.
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This.. is.. sweet..ACI was about to release the hydro probes for the ACI controller last time i looked. I think if you are going down the ACI path, stick with it and add those probes.
Actually, it is still pending, but should be out this quarter?
Browsing their website, I see a lot of things going on my wishlist. If I could have everything controlled by one app on my phone I would be sooo happy.
Year or two tops and I'll be building some permanent rooms and ditching the tent. This stuff is damn cool. There'll be plenty of reviews done by then, too.
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Yeah, it's convenient. Dunno how, but will have to find a way to upgrade my controller(69+pro atm) to the Ai controller so I can get the hydro sensor. It would be sooo nice to b able to monitor real time water conditions w/out breaking out the pens. The conductivity bluelab I have is quick and easy, but the ph one I have takes 1-2 mns b4 the reading gets stable.
I currently have everything connected to my 69+pro, 4 6" circulating fans, 6" exhaust, t7 humidifier, and the mammoth mint 8.
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So, an update on my ph issue. I turned my light up to 80% yesterday which got the temp up to 80° and today the ph had only dropped .1 compared to yesterday's drop of .5 Dunno if the air temp had anything to do w anything but not gonna mess with it now I think. Just gonna check on em and look for signs of light stress over the upcoming days. The air temps maybe got up to 72° w lights on b4. I dunno plants r still looking good? Noticed these weird new growth today, is this normal?
I'm referring to the small, round, lime green leafs on the top
I'm referring to the small, round, lime green leafs on the top
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Yeah I've got the 69 pro and a bluelab wifi monitor and it's the bee's knees. AC infinity has their shit figured out. I'll go the AI route when I upgrade also. Seems like 1 controller could run 2 rooms easy. Adding the pH and ppfd/co2 meter to the same app would be as good as it gets.
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I can't speak for the rounded leaves up top. Haven't seen that before. Maybe someone else has some info.
Observer
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I'd turn the light back down to what is was, and reduce Nitrogen.
Rootsruler
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The grow looks amazing! 
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Yeah, like 32 ports I think?
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Normal? No
I'd say one of two things...a mutant or it got hit with enough light to interrupt a continuous 12 hour dark period and flipped her back to veg and now she's trying to figure it.
Is it an autoflower? Breeding in autos can be very sketchy and results like this are more common than not
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Its a photo gorilla roadkill, 1 of 2 is only doing it. There is also 2 dantes inferno in the tent which r not showing that growth.
Small lime colored leafs
Other gorilla in the same system
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Looked like early foxtails to me.
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Salutations all! Day 42 into flip
Because of the uneven canopy, the tallest cola on that weird leaf plant is only 14" below compared to the tallest cola on the shortest plant is 27" below. I turned down the intensity to 60% from 80% just the other day
Finally getting around to the system change, do I just do 150ppm for calmag, and then 1/4 to 1/2 of the suggestions off the trio bottles? They are six weeks into flip to the day. @moe.red @smoke
Pics of the tallest plant w the lime green small leaves
Temps get anywhere from 72-80 lights on. Humidity has still been pretty high,up to like 66% or so. I'm finally gonna start venting outside to help w that.
Because of the uneven canopy, the tallest cola on that weird leaf plant is only 14" below compared to the tallest cola on the shortest plant is 27" below. I turned down the intensity to 60% from 80% just the other day
Finally getting around to the system change, do I just do 150ppm for calmag, and then 1/4 to 1/2 of the suggestions off the trio bottles? They are six weeks into flip to the day. @moe.red @smoke
Pics of the tallest plant w the lime green small leaves
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Calma⁵g needs should be going down.
I feed 180 ppm calmag to finish.
Your plants needed more calmag last month.,re sarated tips .
If mine is would add equal parts of the 3 jugs to 400 to 450 ppms and see what they eating in a day
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Still having ph issues even after the res change on the 30th. I added some tps silica yesterday to the already present calmag and trio, hopefully that was a good move?
Another weird thing that I noticed today....
Is that a bean? I removed something similar today but a little larger than that. It was squishy. I have been constantly looking for signs of herms, so I do not seen any other signs of nuts...
Another weird thing that I noticed today....
Is that a bean? I removed something similar today but a little larger than that. It was squishy. I have been constantly looking for signs of herms, so I do not seen any other signs of nuts...
MiGrampa
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I can say this ... I have harvested 7 of my 9 plants. All that are left are the Gorilla Roadkill. I found a hermie flower right smack in the middle of a LemonGrass ... the cultivar I did not send you ... and harvested that plant right away. So far, no hermies in the GRK or the Dante's Inferno ... no seeds in the Dante's Inferno. I have been smoking that.
If you find you have another round with hermies, we will need to take a close look at your setup. Some lights have LEDs that remain on during lights out. They are usually green which many claim don't disrupt the dark cycle ... but I think that is hogwash. Newer studies show green is indeed used in plant growth even though the majority of the spectrum is reflected by the plant (what makes the plant look green) ... so if you have hermies. We need to look carefully for light leaks and environmental controls. The cuttings have shown no sign of hermaphroditism for me.
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Hey guy!!! I have no doubt what I got from u was anything less than good quality! Its only the 2 possible seeds? on one of the Dante's Inferno. No signs of nuts near the stems... I have maybe 2-3 weeks left b4 the axe comes out
That's funny u brought up the green diode thing as my expensive ass led is a mammoth 8 mint, which has green diodes. My last round though took way less time to herm though if that is the problem. Being a newb and all, I'd bet, if it is an issue, it was something I messed up
I'll have to take a peak at it during lights out and see if the green diodes r lit up. Or I may have stressed them out too much w the ph fluctuations. I also recently moved the light schedule forward an hr, dunno if that equates to anything.
Thanks again for the help man!!! I've been super pleased w these plants and am looking forward to harvesting them!! It was really cool of u to help me out w them! I was a complete stranger and you reached out to help, I appreciate you!
MiGrampa
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I may have come across differently than what I meant ... I'm 100% onboard in finding out what is triggering this. My Nanolux 630 watt light has those green LED displays and when I ran it through my UIS system by AC Infinity, the lights would turn off on queue but the green lights would remain on. I quickly moved to an outlet timer that cuts all power to the lamp so lights of really means lights off.Hey guy!!! I have no doubt what I got from u was anything less than good quality! Its only the 2 possible seeds? on one of the Dante's Inferno. No signs of nuts near the stems... I have maybe 2-3 weeks left b4 the axe comes out
That's funny u brought up the green diode thing as my expensive ass led is a mammoth 8 mint, which has green diodes. My last round though took way less time to herm though if that is the problem. Being a newb and all, I'd bet, if it is an issue, it was something I messed up
I'll have to take a peak at it during lights out and see if the green diodes r lit up. Or I may have stressed them out too much w the ph fluctuations. I also recently moved the light schedule forward an hr, dunno if that equates to anything.
Thanks again for the help man!!! I've been super pleased w these plants and am looking forward to harvesting them!! It was really cool of u to help me out w them! I was a complete stranger and you reached out to help, I appreciate you!
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MiGrampa
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I have a feeling that you'll find the green light remains on when controlled by the UIS. Smart outlet timers are your answer.
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Piece of duct tape works wonders
MiGrampa
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I've done that too. As long as the light is gone, that is what matters.
moe.red
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If you think it is a seed pop it off and dissect it.
Ph dropping is usually caused by too much bubbling, the opposite where dissolved gasses are out of whack, or the most likely cause is organics being broken down.
I try to not run silica deep into flower. Especially if you are smoking flower. It changes the texture of the bud is the best way I can say it.
Stoney recently had an overnight change with ph when he sterilized the res and supply water. He was always drifting down and now is stable. That’s the organics decaying argument. I’d put my money on that. At this point in the grow the colony did its job so if you agree it might be organics dose it with h2o2.
Ph dropping is usually caused by too much bubbling, the opposite where dissolved gasses are out of whack, or the most likely cause is organics being broken down.
I try to not run silica deep into flower. Especially if you are smoking flower. It changes the texture of the bud is the best way I can say it.
Stoney recently had an overnight change with ph when he sterilized the res and supply water. He was always drifting down and now is stable. That’s the organics decaying argument. I’d put my money on that. At this point in the grow the colony did its job so if you agree it might be organics dose it with h2o2.
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