@GrumpAzz Ganja Master, of course duh
I did my 2nd change 6 days ago. As for the nutes, I'm using a complicated way of feeding em which I plan on changing once I use up all/most of the "unnecessary"? bottles of nutes and just use gh trio and calmag. Below r the nutes I add into gal jugs and than add that to the system to get the required nutes. But yeah, I wanna say that's nute burn and I'm just flushing money down the drain
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My canopy is nowhere near even. The light is at a 35° tilt and the plants that r even further below the light r showing the yellow tips. I'll drop ppms down a bit.
Thanks for the input!! It's my first grow utilizing the whole tent. My only other grow was this 5x5 tent w the 4 13gal site pa fallponics system. In the sites I had fem white widow. 1 was a straight male, the other 3 hermed. I also squeezed in a dwc auto that was already flowering. It ended up herming but was the only 1 I brought to the finish line and got +10oz.
OK man, sorry I abandoned you for a while. Thursday was my last official day at work. Been super busy during the transition. Now I have garage full of welders and tools and 2 decades of crap being stored / used at the job that I am sorting thru and selling off. Got a ton of extra hydro stuff if you need anything. I've taken apart more hydroponics systems than I care to admit. Always trying to squeeze just a little bit more out of my grows. It's a sickness, I know. I'm seeking professional help
So good news you got some weed. Fuck yeah. Not everybody does.
Growing side to side in the grow space is the goal. No issues there except harder to reach without access to the back. This is my son’s current grow he’s learning too
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This one got away from us with 2 extra weeks of veg because of a timer malfunction. Too tall. I’ll make it work.
My ppm is 250 on the 500 scale. It gets to a high of 500 but happy place is 350. 250 means time to feed.
At this stage, I start with RO at <20PPM and add cal-mag to 150. That takes care of early flower and all the N it needs at this stage.
Add the pink stuff to 250 - 275 range.
Add the brown stuff (micro) to 350. That's a bit more N in that.
Now I add the green stuff based on what the plants are telling me. Sometimes none. Usually no more than 400ppm
I am constantly topping off with RO to keep the water level stable. This means the PPM lowers over time. You probably are not doing that, so the EC trend has a different meaning in your system, but the plant requirements are the same.
Thats it for this stage. Early flower.
I have not added any PH up or down in over 2 weeks. As we look deeper at your grow I'll explain how to do that.
For you,
RED - I'm reading you have PLENTY of N in there. Dark green, very shiny, and leaves tending to curl down on the edges rather than praying up.
Pink - is this the tip burn you are asking about?
Blue - petioles are different color based on access to photons. They are getting a tan where light hits them directly, and staying green in the shade. You can use this as a visual way to tune lights in some strains. Looks like what you are running is a good candidate.
Purple comes from anthocyanins. They are a flavonoid that has no positive impact on final product. If you are getting just the petioles turning color, it CAN mean you are getting too much light, too much UVA, or EC is too high. It can also be fine. What I see here is normal for pushing a little with PPFD. I see no alarms to back down the lights. That can change but right now I would leave it alone to minimize variables.
@moe.red I could be wrong because I'm not a hydro grower. However, if pH is fluctuating daily ... isn't that a sign to look at the RO buffering routine? Buffering RO is a balancing act. If the processed is rushed and not allowed enough time to stabilize, wouldn't that contribute to the problem he's seeing?
I bring this up because there's a routing using both pH up and down ... and time ... to reach a pH stable mix in the proper pH range. My premise is if it starts stable, it should remain stable longer despite the ebb and flow of the dissolved nutrients in the feed solution.
PH fluctuating daily is OK within a range.
5.5 - 6.5 is totally fine.
If you have to constantly make adjustments to keep it in that range, something is wrong.
Go to best case scenario - plants maintain that range with only the addition of nutes. That's what I have in that video. Healthy plants photosynthesizing properly are feeding the bennies carbohydrates. The bennies in turn help stabilize the PH.
So what we are looking for is a balance. It's a lot like riding a bike or those damn hoverboard. Once you actually hit the sweet spot you wonder why you were making it so friggin hard. Steep learning curve.
Number 1 cause of PH trend down is decomposing roots or other organics. That's why we need to take it seriously. If the roots look like the ones
@GrumpAzz just posted on his thread we need to look elsewhere for the ph issue. Next stop is water chemistry. Time to get simple with the bottles I think. But lets hear about or better yet see pics of the plants and roots today if you can. Focus on any areas you are concerned about.