'Failure is always an option' Bagseed Hydro grow

[WeedRider]

Hey guys welcome to my grow. Saw some grow tents for sale, did the math, figured I have the room plus the privacy and so here we are. I've always smoked whatever I could get my hands on, never been picky at all so having high quality home grown is going to be an experience. I decided to start with some really old seeds that I'd been collecting for a decade or more. I got about 4 out of ~50 seeds to actually germinate though I killed one seedling when transplanting. Figured I'd feel less bad about screwing up some seeds I got for free. I've made a few mistakes already so that seems to have been a good idea. I do have some feminized seeds from a seed bank I will start after this grow.

I already ran hydro with an Aerogarden type setup for other herbs so DWC was an obvious choice. Water is much easier to deal with than soil for me. My local water is really hard so most is from an RO filter but I use 1/5 tap mixed for some buffering.

• Tent is a 2x4 Gorilla Lite I scored for only $100
• 18 Gal tote for reservoir
• Spider Farmer 6-Inch Fan w/carbon filter
• Spider Farmer SF2000 LED Grow Light
• One 6in oscillating fan
• AC Infinity Air Pump 45 GPH
• MasterBlend 4-18-38 Combo Kit
• Smart WiFi power strip
• Hot steam humidifier
• 35 pint dehumidifier

Early mistake wa trying to use test strips. I'm sure it's possible to do but I bought whole-range pH strips and they did not prove accurate enough to be useful. Thought they were indicating around 6 and turns out that was closer to 3.5! Whoops. That's why B1 is so stunted (among other reasons).

Another mistake was starting with Fox Farm liquid nutes. Besides making a mess of the reservoir I quickly realized they would be prohibitively expensive. Switched to Master Blend and have had great results since. I'm still on my first half-gallon of concentrate and probably won't need any more for this entire grow. Way, way cheaper! FF works great on my soil plants so it will get used there.

Here's what I'm using for ratios:

Concentrate
160g/L masterblend + 80g/L magnesium sulfate for part A
160g/L calcium nitrate for part B

Usage
4 ml concentrate per litre for standard strength formula
Seedlings = 4ml/gallon of part A & B
Leafy = 10ml/gallon of part A & B
Standard = 15ml/gallon of part A & B
Strong = 20ml/gallon of part A & B

This with the 1/5 tap water and I haven't seen any cal/mag issues as long as I keep the pH around 6.2 or above. This is the three plants about a week after the flip. I probably should have been defoliating a bit more during veg.


For monitoring the environment I have a couple of WiFi sensors that keep track of air and water temp, humidity, pH, EC and light intensity. The temp and pH sensors are the only ones that are somewhat accurate, the rest are at best a relative measurement. The dashboard component is called Chronograf. The sensors log data to InfluxDB every 5 min. Kapacitor is used for sending commands and alerting. All of it running on an OrangePi acting as a WiFI hotspot so if my local internet goes out the automation and sensors are unaffected. Here's the last 7 days of data. Ignore the data from this morning, I moved the air sensor to on top of the LED light and forgot to move it down next to the canopy.



Here are the plants from a day ago. They are currently in nighttime mode so will not disturb them. I have lights on from 5:15am to 5pm. Read in an article that the most important dark period was at the end so set that to 5am so everything is dark and I'm not likely to be up and turning on lights. Same article said an extra 15 min on the dark cycle will promote more bud sites. Seems to be working, have way more buds going than will likely be viable.




I added another layer of net along the top today. I also bent a few of the highest buds down some under the net. Will see if I have some photos of that. If not can post some tomorrow. Sorry for the long post but I haven't had a chance to share this grow yet. I know it isn't perfect but making mistakes is a great way to learn.

 

[Aqua Man]

Sounds like you have a really good base understanding brother. Great setup you got there.

 

[WeedRider]

Thanks, there's lots of guides online but they can only help so much. Having some people to bounce ideas off of is going to make things a lot easier. During the flip I was so worried about males but turns out they are all female! What are the odds? Maybe female seeds are more hardy? I didn't keep them in a freezer or anything. So many failed seeds. Here are pics of the ladies.

I will try to get pics of the roots tomorrow. Would like some opinions on why old growth on B1 keeps getting rust spots then dries out.

 

[Moshmen]

Hey guys welcome to my grow. Saw some grow tents for sale, did the math, figured I have the room plus the privacy and so here we are. I've always smoked whatever I could get my hands on, never been picky at all so having high quality home grown is going to be an experience. I decided to start with some really old seeds that I'd been collecting for a decade or more. I got about 4 out of ~50 seeds to actually germinate though I killed one seedling when transplanting. Figured I'd feel less bad about screwing up some seeds I got for free. I've made a few mistakes already so that seems to have been a good idea. I do have some feminized seeds from a seed bank I will start after this grow.

I already ran hydro with an Aerogarden type setup for other herbs so DWC was an obvious choice. Water is much easier to deal with than soil for me. My local water is really hard so most is from an RO filter but I use 1/5 tap mixed for some buffering.

• Tent is a 2x4 Gorilla Lite I scored for only $100
• 18 Gal tote for reservoir
• Spider Farmer 6-Inch Fan w/carbon filter
• Spider Farmer SF2000 LED Grow Light
• One 6in oscillating fan
• AC Infinity Air Pump 45 GPH
• MasterBlend 4-18-38 Combo Kit
• Smart WiFi power strip
• Hot steam humidifier
• 35 pint dehumidifier

View attachment 16027

Early mistake wa trying to use test strips. I'm sure it's possible to do but I bought whole-range pH strips and they did not prove accurate enough to be useful. Thought they were indicating around 6 and turns out that was closer to 3.5! Whoops. That's why B1 is so stunted (among other reasons).

Another mistake was starting with Fox Farm liquid nutes. Besides making a mess of the reservoir I quickly realized they would be prohibitively expensive. Switched to Master Blend and have had great results since. I'm still on my first half-gallon of concentrate and probably won't need any more for this entire grow. Way, way cheaper! FF works great on my soil plants so it will get used there.

Here's what I'm using for ratios:


This with the 1/5 tap water and I haven't seen any cal/mag issues as long as I keep the pH around 6.2 or above. This is the three plants about a week after the flip. I probably should have been defoliating a bit more during veg.
View attachment 16028

For monitoring the environment I have a couple of WiFi sensors that keep track of air and water temp, humidity, pH, EC and light intensity. The temp and pH sensors are the only ones that are somewhat accurate, the rest are at best a relative measurement. The dashboard component is called Chronograf. The sensors log data to InfluxDB every 5 min. Kapacitor is used for sending commands and alerting. All of it running on an OrangePi acting as a WiFI hotspot so if my local internet goes out the automation and sensors are unaffected. Here's the last 7 days of data. Ignore the data from this morning, I moved the air sensor to on top of the LED light and forgot to move it down next to the canopy.

View attachment 16029

Here are the plants from a day ago. They are currently in nighttime mode so will not disturb them. I have lights on from 5:15am to 5pm. Read in an article that the most important dark period was at the end so set that to 5am so everything is dark and I'm not likely to be up and turning on lights. Same article said an extra 15 min on the dark cycle will promote more bud sites. Seems to be working, have way more buds going than will likely be viable.


View attachment 16030

I added another layer of net along the top today. I also bent a few of the highest buds down some under the net. Will see if I have some photos of that. If not can post some tomorrow. Sorry for the long post but I haven't had a chance to share this grow yet. I know it isn't perfect but making mistakes is a great way to learn.

Fwiw I only use strips but I guess I don’t really ph I’m in dirt - sorry scrap that ! Lol it’s a weed forum right !

 

[WeedRider]

Fwiw I only use strips but I guess I don’t really ph I’m in dirt - sorry scrap that ! Lol it’s a weed forum right !

If they're accurate, no reason they shouldn't work. I bought cheap crap off Amazon and didn't verify against a calibration solution. Poor abused plants...

 

[CannaGranny]

Congrats on your first thread on budbuilders! Thanks for sharing with us, I’m following along!

 

[WeedRider]

Airstones.... lots of opinions. I'm running the two that came with the AC Infinity. They are about .5 in in dia and 2 in long. I like them because they sink but maybe worth it to switch out to something else? I keep about 2-3 in of airspace in the reservoir at a minimum. I also have a small water pump that's unused. I'm thinking if surface agitation is the main thing I should throw that in the reservoir with a spray head. That would agitate almost the whole water surface with one small pump. I could almost eliminate the air pump?

 

[Rootsruler]

Pick up a Growers Toolbox from Bluelab. They'll have the meters you want.

 

[Rootsruler]

Airstones.... lots of opinions. I'm running the two that came with the AC Infinity. They are about .5 in in dia and 2 in long. I like them because they sink but maybe worth it to switch out to something else? I keep about 2-3 in of airspace in the reservoir at a minimum. I also have a small water pump that's unused. I'm thinking if surface agitation is the main thing I should throw that in the reservoir with a spray head. That would agitate almost the whole water surface with one small pump. I could almost eliminate the air pump?

I picked up a couple of powerheads on Amazon. I positioned one just below water level to agitate the surface and one at the bottom to keep any solids in the nutrient mix suspended in the solution.

Amazon.com

 

[WeedRider]

Pick up a Growers Toolbox from Bluelab. They'll have the meters you want.

I have the pH probe from Atlas Scientific - https://atlas-scientific.com/kits/ph-kit It's pretty decent I think and matches the other 2 cheaper standalone probes I have after calibration. It's rated for continuous submersion. I'm not too worried about EC accuracy as absolute EC isn't really important as far as I've read. Each mix will be different so calc the nute mix based on recommendations then monitor using EC. I've been trying to maintain around 2-2.2 EC-ish just so not to get lockout.

Good call on the powerhead, I used to have one for my aquarium wonder if it's still kicking around.

 

[smoke]

Welcome to budbuilders, i never saw, or did i miss it?
Are you running a live or a sterile system?

 

[WeedRider]

Welcome to budbuilders, i never saw, or did i miss it?
Are you running a live or a sterile system?

Never heard of it!
Turns out 'sterile'. And I had the air pump stop for a few days a while ago when it was plugged into the wrong outlet. I have been adding H202 occasionally and I haven't see any root rot. Will try to get photos tomorrow.

I do have some molasses I've seen info that spraying it on the plants(?) is a good idea.

 

[Aqua Man]

Airstones.... lots of opinions. I'm running the two that came with the AC Infinity. They are about .5 in in dia and 2 in long. I like them because they sink but maybe worth it to switch out to something else? I keep about 2-3 in of airspace in the reservoir at a minimum. I also have a small water pump that's unused. I'm thinking if surface agitation is the main thing I should throw that in the reservoir with a spray head. That would agitate almost the whole water surface with one small pump. I could almost eliminate the air pump?

Yes it can. Just remember a pump in the water will add some heat so low wattage is important even if running a chiller.

Gas exchange happens from surface agitation as you point out so the more surface area of the water we agitate from air atones, fluming pumps etc the better the gas exchange we will have.

Of course at some point it will just stay at equilibrium and thats what we want.

 

[Aqua Man]

I have the pH probe from Atlas Scientific - https://atlas-scientific.com/kits/ph-kit It's pretty decent I think and matches the other 2 cheaper standalone probes I have after calibration. It's rated for continuous submersion. I'm not too worried about EC accuracy as absolute EC isn't really important as far as I've read. Each mix will be different so calc the nute mix based on recommendations then monitor using EC. I've been trying to maintain around 2-2.2 EC-ish just so not to get lockout.

Good call on the powerhead, I used to have one for my aquarium wonder if it's still kicking around.

If you find you need to keep EC high you can look at environment as temp and humidity really impact nutrient uptake.

This explains it here and when using VPD you really have to make aure you are using the leaf temp in the calculation or you will be likely to be running to low if a VPD.

VPD (Vapour Pressure Deficit) Explained by Aqua Man

WHAT IS VPD: VPD stands for Vapor Pressure Deficit. All gases have vapor pressures, but when we’re growing, we’re interested in water vapor. Vapor pressure deficit is the difference between the pressure of water vapor in 100% saturated air at a given temperature (basically a leaf’s vapor...

budbuilders.org

 

[Aqua Man]

Never heard of it!
Turns out 'sterile'. And I had the air pump stop for a few days a while ago when it was plugged into the wrong outlet. I have been adding H202 occasionally and I haven't see any root rot. Will try to get photos tomorrow.

I do have some molasses I've seen info that spraying it on the plants(?) is a good idea.

Imo nope

 

[Moshmen]

If they're accurate, no reason they shouldn't work. I bought cheap crap off Amazon and didn't verify against a calibration solution. Poor abused plants...

Oh yep I use decent strip from the pet shop- but not quite as important in dirt ! Hydro , new game ph has got to be on point

 

[Pipecarver]

Hey guys welcome to my grow. Saw some grow tents for sale, did the math, figured I have the room plus the privacy and so here we are. I've always smoked whatever I could get my hands on, never been picky at all so having high quality home grown is going to be an experience. I decided to start with some really old seeds that I'd been collecting for a decade or more. I got about 4 out of ~50 seeds to actually germinate though I killed one seedling when transplanting. Figured I'd feel less bad about screwing up some seeds I got for free. I've made a few mistakes already so that seems to have been a good idea. I do have some feminized seeds from a seed bank I will start after this grow.

I already ran hydro with an Aerogarden type setup for other herbs so DWC was an obvious choice. Water is much easier to deal with than soil for me. My local water is really hard so most is from an RO filter but I use 1/5 tap mixed for some buffering.

• Tent is a 2x4 Gorilla Lite I scored for only $100
• 18 Gal tote for reservoir
• Spider Farmer 6-Inch Fan w/carbon filter
• Spider Farmer SF2000 LED Grow Light
• One 6in oscillating fan
• AC Infinity Air Pump 45 GPH
• MasterBlend 4-18-38 Combo Kit
• Smart WiFi power strip
• Hot steam humidifier
• 35 pint dehumidifier

View attachment 16027

Early mistake wa trying to use test strips. I'm sure it's possible to do but I bought whole-range pH strips and they did not prove accurate enough to be useful. Thought they were indicating around 6 and turns out that was closer to 3.5! Whoops. That's why B1 is so stunted (among other reasons).

Another mistake was starting with Fox Farm liquid nutes. Besides making a mess of the reservoir I quickly realized they would be prohibitively expensive. Switched to Master Blend and have had great results since. I'm still on my first half-gallon of concentrate and probably won't need any more for this entire grow. Way, way cheaper! FF works great on my soil plants so it will get used there.

Here's what I'm using for ratios:


This with the 1/5 tap water and I haven't seen any cal/mag issues as long as I keep the pH around 6.2 or above. This is the three plants about a week after the flip. I probably should have been defoliating a bit more during veg.
View attachment 16028

For monitoring the environment I have a couple of WiFi sensors that keep track of air and water temp, humidity, pH, EC and light intensity. The temp and pH sensors are the only ones that are somewhat accurate, the rest are at best a relative measurement. The dashboard component is called Chronograf. The sensors log data to InfluxDB every 5 min. Kapacitor is used for sending commands and alerting. All of it running on an OrangePi acting as a WiFI hotspot so if my local internet goes out the automation and sensors are unaffected. Here's the last 7 days of data. Ignore the data from this morning, I moved the air sensor to on top of the LED light and forgot to move it down next to the canopy.

View attachment 16029

Here are the plants from a day ago. They are currently in nighttime mode so will not disturb them. I have lights on from 5:15am to 5pm. Read in an article that the most important dark period was at the end so set that to 5am so everything is dark and I'm not likely to be up and turning on lights. Same article said an extra 15 min on the dark cycle will promote more bud sites. Seems to be working, have way more buds going than will likely be viable.


View attachment 16030

I added another layer of net along the top today. I also bent a few of the highest buds down some under the net. Will see if I have some photos of that. If not can post some tomorrow. Sorry for the long post but I haven't had a chance to share this grow yet. I know it isn't perfect but making mistakes is a great way to learn.

Hey, welcome to the forum, I have a different system with Auto Pots & a 47 L reservoir. They recommend an air stone to break surface tension & a small circulating pump running for 10 min every 2 hrs just to mix up the nutes. That prevents the pump from heating up the solution & keeps everything mixed.

 

[WeedRider]

If you find you need to keep EC high you can look at environment as temp and humidity really impact nutrient uptake.

This explains it here and when using VPD you really have to make aure you are using the leaf temp in the calculation or you will be likely to be running to low if a VPD.

VPD (Vapour Pressure Deficit) Explained by Aqua Man

WHAT IS VPD: VPD stands for Vapor Pressure Deficit. All gases have vapor pressures, but when we’re growing, we’re interested in water vapor. Vapor pressure deficit is the difference between the pressure of water vapor in 100% saturated air at a given temperature (basically a leaf’s vapor...

budbuilders.org

This is a great article for VPD wish I'd found it sooner. I do have a IR temp gun and last I measured leaf temps in the tent were about 1.1c below air. I should check that again since I've turned up the lights for flower.

Here is the formula I'm using for VPD calc:

ASVP = 610.78 * math.pow(x: math.e, y: ( (lastValTempC / (lastValTempC + 237.3)) * 17.2694) )
LSVP = 610.78 * math.pow(x: math.e, y: ( (leafValTempC / (leafValTempC + 237.3)) * 17.2694) )
VDP = (LSVP - (ASVP * r._value / 100.0)) / 1000.0

Got that from some website and seems accurate enough. I would like to store this data instead of just calculating the current value so I can see trends.

 

[WeedRider]

Hey, welcome to the forum, I have a different system with Auto Pots & a 47 L reservoir. They recommend an air stone to break surface tension & a small circulating pump running for 10 min every 2 hrs just to mix up the nutes. That prevents the pump from heating up the solution & keeps everything mixed.

That's not a bad idea will have to try setting up the pump and see if it makes a difference. I found a D.O. probe for Arduino so may add that to the data collection for next grow then I'll really be able to watch o2 levels and experiment to see what works best.

 

[Aqua Man]

This is a great article for VPD wish I'd found it sooner. I do have a IR temp gun and last I measured leaf temps in the tent were about 1.1c below air. I should check that again since I've turned up the lights for flower.

Here is the formula I'm using for VPD calc:


Got that from some website and seems accurate enough. I would like to store this data instead of just calculating the current value so I can see trends.

Vapor Pressure Deficit VPD Calculator - Dimlux Lighting - The Best Grow Lights

Vapor Pressure DeficitCalculator Calculate both Room VPD and Leaf VPD automatically Just enter the value below to generate the VPD values for your room and your plants. You’ll need to know the room’s temperature, relative humidity, and the plant’s temperature. We recommend calibrating your...

www.dimluxlighting.com

 

[Aqua Man]

Increased light can increase transpiration up to a point which can lower leaf temps. But beyond that point the excess light will be given off as heat and plant temps can rise alot. Its a tool you can use to maximize light but probably not the best to use by itself.

Many ways to manipulate leaf temps, rootzone temps, forced evaporation from wind and VPD and a few more can have a big impact on leaf temps.

Under LED usually 2-4f cooler is normal. Under HID 0-2f cooler.

This all plays into dial our grows in perfectly but its also changing all the time for many reasons like total leaf surface areA

 

[MDK]

Failure, a tried and true testament to bag seed growing

Welcome! I myself am a fellow bag seed searcher. For years it's the only choice I had. The good, I've seen some fire, the bad is its usually just ok...the ugly lots of males and herming

I've seen it, done it infact wish I still had my 2012 girl...unknown smasher

 

[smoke]

That's not a bad idea will have to try setting up the pump and see if it makes a difference. I found a D.O. probe for Arduino so may add that to the data collection for next grow then I'll really be able to watch o2 levels and experiment to see what works best.

https://how2electronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/ALLPCB.gif

@Moe.Red is this similar to what your using?

 

[moe.red]

https://how2electronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/ALLPCB.gif

@Moe.Red is this similar to what your using?

Bad link smoke. That site disallows hot linking.

 

[smoke]

Bad link smoke. That site disallows hot linking.

Copied and searched" D.O. probe for Arduino. " from @WeedRider post above

 

[WeedRider]

https://how2electronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/ALLPCB.gif

@Moe.Red is this similar to what your using?

I assume it's the DfRobot dissolved oxygen sensor here https://how2electronics.com/dissolved-oxygen-sensor-arduino-interfacing-tutorial/

Here are some photos from this morning.



Here is the root development

B1


B3


B4


And the stats from the last 24hr. I added water and some pH down this morning when I had the tent open. Been having to add ~4 gal every few days right now, it's growing like crazy.

 

[moe.red]

Copied and searched" D.O. probe for Arduino. " from @WeedRider post above

Thanks for tagging me in. This is an interesting thread. Subbed.

@WeedRider what do probe? I use atlas scientific too. And pi.

 

[moe.red]

I assume it's the DfRobot dissolved oxygen sensor here https://how2electronics.com/dissolved-oxygen-sensor-arduino-interfacing-tutorial/

Here are some photos from this morning.
View attachment 16146
View attachment 16147

Here is the root development

B1
View attachment 16150

B3
View attachment 16149

B4
View attachment 16148

And the stats from the last 24hr. I added water and some pH down this morning when I had the tent open. Been having to add ~4 gal every few days right now, it's growing like crazy.

View attachment 16151

That one is a bitch to calibrate and keep it calibrated. But I’ve got one here working with arduino

 

[Aqua Man]

I assume it's the DfRobot dissolved oxygen sensor here https://how2electronics.com/dissolved-oxygen-sensor-arduino-interfacing-tutorial/

Here are some photos from this morning.
View attachment 16146
View attachment 16147

Here is the root development

B1
View attachment 16150

B3
View attachment 16149

B4
View attachment 16148

And the stats from the last 24hr. I added water and some pH down this morning when I had the tent open. Been having to add ~4 gal every few days right now, it's growing like crazy.

View attachment 16151

Looking mighty happy and healthy sir

 

[WeedRider]

That one is a bitch to calibrate and keep it calibrated. But I’ve got one here working with arduino

Good to know, guess I'll have to spring for the Atlas Scientific d.o. probe then. I've been really happy with their pH sensor kit.

 

[smoke]

I assume it's the DfRobot dissolved oxygen sensor here https://how2electronics.com/dissolved-oxygen-sensor-arduino-interfacing-tutorial/

Here are some photos from this morning.
View attachment 16146
View attachment 16147

Here is the root development

B1
View attachment 16150

B3
View attachment 16149

B4
View attachment 16148

And the stats from the last 24hr. I added water and some pH down this morning when I had the tent open. Been having to add ~4 gal every few days right now, it's growing like crazy.

View attachment 16151

Interesting root development above, i expected to see more of a root ball type development because of where you keep your water level.

I keep about 2-3 in of airspace in the reservoir at a minimum.

 

[WeedRider]

Interesting root development above, i expected to see more of a root ball type development because of where you keep your water level.

Interesting. Do you mean the roots are more of an inverted tree shape instead of staying in a ball?

For what it's worth the seeds were put into an Aerogarden until the roots were fairly developed, say 6-10". The aerogarden has a water level that is above the foam starter plugs so the roots are always submerged. I had originally planned on using a water pump to mist the individual net pots in the main tent until the roots would reach the water but found the aerogarden was easier. I had a staggered start with all the different seeds I was popping so there was some adjustment in schedule.

 

[Aqua Man]

The lower the water the more elongated the top above the water line will be. Then where the water line is comes the rootball

 

[moe.red]

Good to know, guess I'll have to spring for the Atlas Scientific d.o. probe then. I've been really happy with their pH sensor kit.

I'm never one to talk someone out of tech, but I wonder if your time / money would be better spent on converting to RDWC first? Just a thought.

 

[WeedRider]

I'm never one to talk someone out of tech, but I wonder if your time / money would be better spent on converting to RDWC first? Just a thought.

I'd consider it if the advantages are there. I like the simplicity of DWC though. One reservoir, no leaks, only one air pump to worry about, maxes water volume in the space available.

I can see the pros of having more water mixing and cooling of RDWC but so far I haven't had issues with temps and it seems like a lot of extra complexity. But if I can reduce grow cycle time that would be in my interests. I can't have these huge veg times like this first grow. Even thinking of trying sea of green, I've got 8 spots in my reservoir a real short veg could have pretty short time between harvest. 8oz in 6 mo would be perfect for me.

 

[WeedRider]

It's been a week since the flowers first showed and starting to get some nice buds (I think). Last water fill on Mon(?) I used just RO water as seemed EC was pretty high and I'd been adding nutes with water every time. Not sure if it was that or what but I noticed B3 especially started to get tip burn around Wed. I added some cal/mag and haven't noticed it getting worse. I also raised the lights a bit just in case.

Current levels. EC is closer to 2.4mS/cm than indicated here.



Examples of the tip burn and bud development







I notice a lot of bud sites starting lower down below where I trimmed, should I leave or trim them? I defoliated a bit again today for leaves that were right on top of each other.




I also moved my DWC lettuce hydro setup out of the lung room yesterday. That has helped a ton with humidity in the tent. I noticed gnats or something around the lettuce and didn't want that to spread to the tent. I've been using "Mosquito Bits" in the reservoirs to control fungus gnats but doesn't seem to have an effect on these larger gnats.

 

[Aqua Man]

It's been a week since the flowers first showed and starting to get some nice buds (I think). Last water fill on Mon(?) I used just RO water as seemed EC was pretty high and I'd been adding nutes with water every time. Not sure if it was that or what but I noticed B3 especially started to get tip burn around Wed. I added some cal/mag and haven't noticed it getting worse. I also raised the lights a bit just in case.

Current levels. EC is closer to 2.4mS/cm than indicated here.

View attachment 16492

Examples of the tip burn and bud development

View attachment 16493

View attachment 16494

View attachment 16495

I notice a lot of bud sites starting lower down below where I trimmed, should I leave or trim them? I defoliated a bit again today for leaves that were right on top of each other.
View attachment 16496

View attachment 16497

I also moved my DWC lettuce hydro setup out of the lung room yesterday. That has helped a ton with humidity in the tent. I noticed gnats or something around the lettuce and didn't want that to spread to the tent. I've been using "Mosquito Bits" in the reservoirs to control fungus gnats but doesn't seem to have an effect on these larger gnats.

How i do my top ups… a little more complex but worth it imo.

RDWC advanced top up method explained by Aqua Man

Ok I'm going to explain a more complex way of maintaining our systems for those looking to use best practices (IMO only) There are many ways this can be done but I feel this gives the most stability for PH, PPM, NUTRIENT RATIOS (super important) especially in systems with a low water volume. So...

budbuilders.org

 

[Aqua Man]

Time to change the ratios a bit imo… i think the tip burn is the beginning of a K deficiency. Its not nitrogen is why i say that. At this stage of flower is exactly when K demands start to really ramp up.

It will start with tip burn and the move along the serrations as it progresses .

Maybe a touch high in the light, walking the line it looks like.

Also if the budsites have already formed id leave em and think of the possibility of a dual harvest

 

[WeedRider]

Time to change the ratios a bit imo… i think the tip burn is the beginning of a K deficiency. Its not nitrogen is why i say that. At this stage of flower is exactly when K demands start to really ramp up.

It will start with tip burn and the move along the serrations as it progresses .

Maybe a touch high in the light, walking the line it looks like.

Also if the budsites have already formed id leave em and think of the possibility of a dual harvest

I've got the FF Trio pack if any of those would be helpful. Otherwise I've just been adjusting the strength of the Masterblend mix without changing ratios. Trying for 2.2 EC mS/cm but could bump that up if think it's needed.

I'll lower the light back down a bit. I'll have to look into Dual harvest, like the sound of it though.

 

[Aqua Man]

I've got the FF Trio pack if any of those would be helpful. Otherwise I've just been adjusting the strength of the Masterblend mix without changing ratios. Trying for 2.2 EC mS/cm but could bump that up if think it's needed.

I'll lower the light back down a bit. I'll have to look into Dual harvest, like the sound of it though.

Look up the master blend transition ratio or early flower. I would do a res change and run early flower ratios pretty much to the end