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One_bell here, newbie and need advice on RDWC and auto's for 2nd run

moe.red said:
What I’m wondering is where is the cal mag in this lineup.
Click to expand...
The nutrients are coming from General Hydroponics now called Terra Aquatica. I am using the softwater ones beceause I a using RO water 0ppm.

The ratio’s:
Micro = 5–0-1
Grow = 3-1-6
Bloom= 0-5-4

They state don’t use calmag if using the softwater line.
 
I just spent a half hour on the terra aquatica website and I am just scratching my head.

I can’t find labels anywhere. Can you shoot a pic of the labels on the 3 part bottles. I think they are the same as gh here in the states what both smoke and I use. If so there is no possible way to grow good weed with RO water and no cal mag. I feel like that website has you off in the weeds. If what you have is the same as ours I’ll tell you exactly what to do, starting with picking up a bottle of cal mag. You can do the entire grow with the 4 bottles nothing more.

This is the info I am looking for

IMG_5247.png
 
One_Bell said:
The nutrients are coming from General Hydroponics now called Terra Aquatica. I am using the softwater ones beceause I a using RO water 0ppm.

The ratio’s:
Micro = 5–0-1
Grow = 3-1-6
Bloom= 0-5-4

They state don’t use calmag if using the softwater line.
Click to expand...
Ive run both the hard water and soft water micro in my system and see no difference in the 2. It wasn't until 2 years ago that i even knew there was a micro for soft water.

I start with ro water, add calmag to 180 ppm then add the nutrients and adjust the ccalmag (always up)never down from the base of calmag at 180 ppm. So in my water at least 1/3 of ppms is from the calmag.

Ive joked before that all the plants really need is water and calmag, but yes they definitely need the calmag
 
moe.red said:
I just spent a half hour on the terra aquatica website and I am just scratching my head.

I can’t find labels anywhere. Can you shoot a pic of the labels on the 3 part bottles. I think they are the same as gh here in the states what both smoke and I use. If so there is no possible way to grow good weed with RO water and no cal mag. I feel like that website has you off in the weeds. If what you have is the same as ours I’ll tell you exactly what to do, starting with picking up a bottle of cal mag. You can do the entire grow with the 4 bottles nothing more.

This is the info I am looking for

View attachment 101265
Click to expand...

Unfortunately mine has different labels (part of the renaming the brand for this part of the world I believe):
Micro:
IMG_6883 groot.jpeg
IMG_6884 groot.jpegIMG_6885 groot.jpeg

Grow:

IMG_6886 groot.jpegIMG_6887 groot.jpeg

Bloom:

IMG_6888 groot.jpegIMG_6889 groot.jpegIMG_6890 groot.jpeg

I just ordered a bottle of calmag anyway, hopefully it will arive (the soonest) in two days...

It seems similar but it is not completely. The NPK ratio however, is the same.
 
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smoke said:
Ive run both the hard water and soft water micro in my system and see no difference in the 2. It wasn't until 2 years ago that i even knew there was a micro for soft water.

I start with ro water, add calmag to 180 ppm then add the nutrients and adjust the ccalmag (always up)never down from the base of calmag at 180 ppm. So in my water at least 1/3 of ppms is from the calmag.

Ive joked before that all the plants really need is water and calmag, but yes they definitely need the calmag
Click to expand...
Good to know, just ordered some and I hope it will arrive here soon. I found it very deceiving from TA to state everywhere you don't need it in combination of micro soft water and RO...

So if I read your comment correct you not very often over 540 ppm? x500 scale?
 
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One_Bell said:
Good to know, just ordered some and I hope it will arrive here soon. I found it very deceiving from TA to state everywhere you don't need it in combination of micro soft water and RO...

So if I read your comment correct you not very often over 540 ppm? x500 scale?
Click to expand...
540 on the 500 scale would be higher than I usually feed. 420 on the 700 scale is a sweet spot for my grows. Here's a shot of my book that is updated daily. On nov 20 day 2 of flower ppm at 390 and6.0 ph20231127_105826.jpg

Screenshot_20230131-012353_Google.jpg
 
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One_Bell said:
Unfortunately mine has different labels (part of the renaming the brand for this part of the world I believe):
Micro:
View attachment 101275
View attachment 101276View attachment 101277

Grow:

View attachment 101278View attachment 101279

Bloom:

View attachment 101280View attachment 101281View attachment 101282

I just ordered a bottle of calmag anyway, hopefully it will arive (the soonest) in two days...

It seems similar but it is not completely. The NPK ratio however, is the same.
Click to expand...
Not making this easy are they.

Let’s assume it is the same formula as the us. What smoke said about starting with cal mag and adding on top of that is the right answer imo. Cal mag also has N and helps set ph. When switching from veg to flower the calcium in micro is not enough for cannabis. There is a telltale brown spot deficiency that happens about this time if not upping calcium.
 
smoke said:
540 on the 500 scale would be higher than I usually feed. 420 on the 700 scale is a sweet spot for my grows. Here's a shot of my book that is updated daily. On nov 20 day 2 of flower ppm at 390 and6.0 phView attachment 101307

View attachment 101304
Click to expand...
Thank you very much for sharing. My Apera pen uses the x500 scale b ut the BlueLab x700, something I was not aware of during the first start lol. But sharing your ppm's are really valuable to me. Lot's of people suggested I upped the nutrients while already on 1.5 EC during my first grow... (just took a look at my own book and at 15 days after sprouting I was on 820ppm during my first round)

moe.red said:
Not making this easy are they.

Let’s assume it is the same formula as the us. What smoke said about starting with cal mag and adding on top of that is the right answer imo. Cal mag also has N and helps set ph. When switching from veg to flower the calcium in micro is not enough for cannabis. There is a telltale brown spot deficiency that happens about this time if not upping calcium.
Click to expand...

Yeah I think it is a safe bet since I compared the NPK ratio's of all three and they are the same. TA also stated somewhere the labels can differ between various regions but the formula stays the same...But they also stated don't use calmag when using Micro with RO, so this leaves some room haha...

All jokes aside, should I do another res change when I get the calmag in? Mix it with the RO untill a ppm of 180 (x700) and then add nutes until I reach around 420ppm? Sounds like a plan to me! Also leaving out the Great White and VJ but still ad H202 at 1ml per liter?
 
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moe.red said:
Not making this easy are they.
Click to expand...
I also spend a lot of time on their website opening everything up but nowhere they mention the specifics like on the bottle you got. On my labels everything is squeezed together and allthough they have safety regulation pdfs of multiple pages they do not state the listed ingredients like on the bottle. Very strange practice when your unique selling points seems to be development with Nasa scientists and what not.... Which I presume makes it more scientific and most of the time companies like that share a lot of specific information.
 
Went to check on the roots this morning and from the left plant (the one most sick) the entire rootball came of. Don’t know if that is a good sign or not and I truly hope the plant survives. The one on the right gets more yellowing on the leaves probably from the missing calmag.
 
Not good.

I hate to say it but sounds like pythium won this battle.

I know it sucks but paying dues while on the learning curve is something we all go thru. Now you know how to do it correctly from the start and tye next grow will be so much better.
 
moe.red said:
Not good.

I hate to say it but sounds like pythium won this battle.

I know it sucks but paying dues while on the learning curve is something we all go thru. Now you know how to do it correctly from the start and tye next grow will be so much better.
Click to expand...

Yeah it does suck, big time... But better now then again near the finish line. And like I said earlier, I am so glad I finally found out what was wrong. So for me it also has an upside, since I kept scratching my head not understanding what was happening. Now I am doubting for the next grow if I should go all sterile or switch to bennies after a while (but I don't yet when exactly).
 
One_Bell said:
Yeah it does suck, big time... But better now then again near the finish line. And like I said earlier, I am so glad I finally found out what was wrong. So for me it also has an upside, since I kept scratching my head not understanding what was happening. Now I am doubting for the next grow if I should go all sterile or switch to bennies after a while (but I don't yet when exactly).
Click to expand...
My advice is do a sterile run. Get yourself dialed in on the next grow. Give your system a chance to work out every bit of pathogen.

Start low on EC with just the 3 bottles and cal mag.

You will get this figured out.
 
moe.red said:
My advice is do a sterile run. Get yourself dialed in on the next grow. Give your system a chance to work out every bit of pathogen.

Start low on EC with just the 3 bottles and cal mag.

You will get this figured out.
Click to expand...

smoke said:
Agree with sterile as its the most fool proof
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, I won't give up and I am trying this until I get busted lol. Again, and I can't say this enough, I am very glad that I finally found a few people that actually have hands on experience with (r)dwc and autoflowers. Finally got some guidelines regarding ppm's en EC's, which I am very thankful for!
 
One_Bell said:
Thanks guys, I won't give up and I am trying this until I get busted lol. Again, and I can't say this enough, I am very glad that I finally found a few people that actually have hands on experience with (r)dwc and autoflowers. Finally got some guidelines regarding ppm's en EC's, which I am very thankful for!
Click to expand...
Screenshot_20250514_162731_Google.jpg
Never grown a autoflower
 
Calmag is incoming today. I will do a reservoir swap with the first 180ppm calmag and then add nutrients. Last res change I used te preflower mix, should I go for the flower mix this time? Any pointers regarding the ratio’s npk? I mix batches of ten liters at a time.
 
You didn’t post pics but when you said the roots fell off I figured you were getting ready to pick new seeds.

You think they are gonna make it?
 
moe.red said:
You didn’t post pics but when you said the roots fell off I figured you were getting ready to pick new seeds.

You think they are gonna make it?
Click to expand...
I honestly dont know but they are still growing so I want to give it a shot anyway.
 
smoke said:
Id like,to see the patient first
Click to expand...
IMG_6911.jpeg

I took out the res water and changed it with a H2O2 mix ph 5.9 to rinse the system for 20 minutes. After that I took the water out and inserted the new nutrient mix. Started with RO adding H2O2, adding calmag until achieving 180 ppm and add micro, grow and bloom from there(ppm 420 x700), ph'ed at 5.8 I can slowly let it rise. I hope they will survive now....fingers crossed

The rootball of the right plant is still attached to the plant and looks a bit brighter then previous days.

I used the same ratio of my preflower schedule to up the ppm from 180 to 420ppm (X700)
 
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Go ahead and remove any and all dead plant matter. Leaves, roots, entire branches if needed.

Then look close at all the leaves that look bad. You can’t afford to remove any plant matter that will aid in recovery but you also don’t want to waste plant resources on leaves that are too far gone. Not too much removal or do it a little each day and see how they respond. You need more green solar panels to build buds so concentrate on what you can save and hopefully see some new replacement growth. If you do that means you are back on track and it won’t hurt to watch it. If they continue to decline I’m afraid you are wasting time and should get seeds going.

What is the light? Regardless what it is back it off either with a dimmer or more space.

Focus on a perfect environment. It’ll help you next grow to get this dialed in now. Temp and rh are relative to your conditions. What is your air temp high and low and your humidity? Keep in mind temps will go down with dimming the lights.

What is your temp and rh control if any?

Do you have a blower thru charcoal? I assume you are exhausting into a lung room. Please explain all that. What are your lung room conditions if using one.

I believe your res temps are low last I looked. How is that controlled?

What is the situation with bubbling?

In order for plants to thrive in RDWC (if your expectation / reason for RDWC is max growth) you need to take complete control root zone and atmosphere in conjunction with correct lighting at that plant stage. That really is the point of hydro anyway- removing limits to growth. It’s a study in horticulture to get good at this.

There are some tools you should get if you don’t have them. If you do post the data.

Accurate temp and rh sensor that stays in the tent. I like SensorPush.​

This is my lung room (basement) as this tent is currently shut down and open

IMG_5253.png

That VPD at the bottom is the engine that drives plant respiration and transpiration. It’s kinda like your bmi. It’s a blunt instrument but puts you on the fairway.
IMG_5254.png

Another tool is an ir temp gun. Those charts work off leaf temp not air temp. Here in the us they are cheap. This is why we care

1747427908921.png

Next tool there is a ppfd app to measure lights a lot of folks use. I’m gonna call in backup on that I don’t use it.

—————————-

What ppfd app works best for the phone? @Aqua Man @steamroller @GoodShit97 @Stoneyluv @MiGrampa @Bandit420

First one to answer gets a cookie.

——————————

How are you measuring ph EC and temp? Are you using gh ph up and down?

I believe you said you are starting with RO water.

Getting those data points we will dial you in. You will want this before your next grow anyhow even if we can’t save this pair.

You got more seeds handy? If not time to plan out the germination what is your process for getting seeds wet? What seeds? Hint hint go photoperiod fems. Germ asap.

Even if you completely recover this grow we can clone the best of what germinates to give you plenty of time on this grow. Cloning is an important skill but can be done easily if done correctly and anyone but goodshit can talk you thru that lol.

Take your time to reply we will read it. The more info you give all in one post the more likely the experts will help you.
There is a format you can follow in the new user section if you want.
 
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