⚡Electrical Help Thread⚡

[midwestcannaman]

Yeah it looks like they left the fuckin patio light out there, took the fuckin switch out and put a bare face plate over it....

Low income area apartments I guess...yet rent is 995.

You'll have that on a big job right?

 

[Observer]

You'll have that on a big job right?

Sorry I'm lost in the context here

 

[Observer]

The rent ?

 

[GrumpAzz]

First thing that popped in my head lol! I'll never understand breaking the connector tab and running a switch for a "random lamp" like that. My house is like that.

I'm from the midwest, also, and I consider it a luxury that only the rich folks around here want. I'm guessing a week or two after moving in they realize it's retarded.

It's only ever done in nice custom homes and hotels. Hotels do it so they can save on overhead lighting. The rich folks do it so they don't have to lean over a flick on a lamp. Just put in some damn dimmers if you want your damn mood lighting.

 

[GrumpAzz]

First thing that popped in my head lol! I'll never understand breaking the connector tab and running a switch for a "random lamp" like that. My house is like that.

It's a false sense of convenience when realistically they'll have to get their happy ass up from their comfy recliner to go shut off the lamp that's already within reach. Or they'll shut the lamp off and next time the switch won't do shit. It's so dumb to me but I get paid to do it so I do it.

 

[tobh]

I'm from the midwest, also, and I consider it a luxury that only the rich folks around here want. I'm guessing a week or two after moving in they realize it's retarded.

It's only ever done in nice custom homes and hotels. Hotels do it so they can save on overhead lighting. The rich folks do it so they don't have to lean over a flick on a lamp. Just put in some damn dimmers if you want your damn mood lighting.

alright. let's talk dimmers , and even further, motion sensing switches.

i want to install dimmers in several places, and motion switches in any room the kids "own." dimmers are just a pot, so I don't think anything special needs done for those, but the motion switches I have no idea about. do they wire up all the same as a standard toggle or is there some fuckery I need to know about the load they'll be running?

 

[GoodShit97]

I'm from the midwest, also, and I consider it a luxury that only the rich folks around here want. I'm guessing a week or two after moving in they realize it's retarded.

It's only ever done in nice custom homes and hotels. Hotels do it so they can save on overhead lighting. The rich folks do it so they don't have to lean over a flick on a lamp. Just put in some damn dimmers if you want your damn mood lighting.

My 1984 single wide had 8 switched outlets when i moved in but my father and i changed it all, so switched outlets are no more.
I have 1 still but thats because its kinda useful not gonna lie, as I'm a forgetful shit and never remember to turn my living room lamp off, and the switch is right at my front door so its convenient actually.
Otherwise, switched outlets are a pain in the ass and stupid imo.

 

[GrumpAzz]

My 1984 single wide had 8 switched outlets when i moved in but my father and i changed it all, so switched outlets are no more.
I have 1 still but thats because its kinda useful not gonna lie, as I'm a forgetful shit and never remember to turn my living room lamp off, and the switch is right at my front door so its convenient actually.
Otherwise, switched outlets are a pain in the ass and stupid imo.

They have their place, for sure, but every outlet in the living room? Nah.

alright. let's talk dimmers , and even further, motion sensing switches.

i want to install dimmers in several places, and motion switches in any room the kids "own." dimmers are just a pot, so I don't think anything special needs done for those, but the motion switches I have no idea about. do they wire up all the same as a standard toggle or is there some fuckery I need to know about the load they'll be running?

The dimmers will come with a wiring diagram. Most of them require nothing special, unless you bought one's with 0-10v dimming. I usually only see that in commercial work though. They're more common now in homes with LEDs nowadays, but if you buy dimmable LEDs, you should be able to just swap out your existing switches. Some LEDs will have a smaller gauged purple and gray for 0-10 dimming. If they're dimmable and don't have those, any dimmer will work.

Nothing really all that special for your motions, either, aside from the fact that a lot of them will require a neutral as well. Older homes may not have a neutral at the switch. Just a hot and a switchleg. Just see what's in the box before you buy your devices, but be aware, you'll probably need to drop down a neutral.

In either case it's best to know what your currently dealing with before making any purchases. Match you lights to your switches and your switches with the wiring available.

 

[Scotty 420]

My 1984 single wide had 8 switched outlets when i moved in but my father and i changed it all, so switched outlets are no more.
I have 1 still but thats because its kinda useful not gonna lie, as I'm a forgetful shit and never remember to turn my living room lamp off, and the switch is right at my front door so its convenient actually.
Otherwise, switched outlets are a pain in the ass and stupid imo.

We have one wired right below our big living room window that is awesome for when we put the Christmas tree up. Instead of having to bend down & plug in the Christmas tree lights just flip the switch. Just leave it o the rest of the year so the outlet stays on, whoever had our house built did it & I have to say it's genius. They also have a switch wired to an outlet outside for the house Christmas lights, would recommend.

 

[Observer]

You may need to get the state AG involved.

this is a thing? how will one go about that, start googling my State AG?

because the apartment management is ignoring my electrical concerns?


ill get an attorney if i fucking need to.

all the little issues upon move in and being ignored about them is just infuriating me, and walking into my daughters room and smelling fucking Mold maybe ???

from what i am thinking is also who ever cleaned the carpets in that room fucked it up tremendously.

there is no ceiling fan and i bet they did not even use fans, therefore water in a stale environment, i dont know.

it smells not-pleasant like shampoo and bacteria or some shit.

and then the electrical bullshit?

if you turn the garbage disposal on, the lights briefly dim too.

 

[tobh]

this is a thing? how will one go about that, start googling my State AG?

because the apartment management is ignoring my electrical concerns?


ill get an attorney if i fucking need to.

all the little issues upon move in and being ignored about them is just infuriating me, and walking into my daughters room and smelling fucking Mold maybe ???

from what i am thinking is also who ever cleaned the carpets in that room fucked it up tremendously.

there is no ceiling fan and i bet they did not even use fans, therefore water in a stale environment, i dont know.

it smells not-pleasant like shampoo and bacteria or some shit.

and then the electrical bullshit?

if you turn the garbage disposal on, the lights briefly dim too.

Yeah, just Google your states attorney general office. They'll have a contact form or maybe even a phone number. I hope you've documented every time you've reached out to management about issues, but they proof will be needed if it makes it all the way to court.

It is somewhat expected to see lights dim slightly when initially starting a high load appliance like a garage disposal. The lights should bounce back after it's started running though. That initial amp draw can be pretty significant.

 

[Observer]

Yeah, just Google your states attorney general office. They'll have a contact form or maybe even a phone number. I hope you've documented every time you've reached out to management about issues, but they proof will be needed if it makes it all the way to court.

It is somewhat expected to see lights dim slightly when initially starting a high load appliance like a garage disposal. The lights should bounce back after it's started running though. That initial amp draw can be pretty significant.

Oh yeah, voicemails phone calls time stamps emails

Thanks guys

 

[tobh]

WTF is going on here? I've not seen a red wire yet... This switch controls two lights, and there's another switch on the circuit that controls the same lights. Thinking the single pole switch I bought to replace this one was a bad purchase..

 

[GoodShit97]

WTF is going on here? I've not seen a red wire yet... This switch controls two lights, and there's another switch on the circuit that controls the same lights. Thinking the single pole switch I bought to replace this one was a bad purchase..
View attachment 22797

I believe you would need a 3 way switch if it controls 2 lights

 

[tobh]

I believe you would need a 3 way switch if it controls 2 lights

that's what i was thinking, especially given there's that secondary switch too. i looked up how those are wired about a month ago because i was curious, didn't take that into account when i was at the big orange box store. oh well. luckily flipping breakers is easy. will make sure to pay better attention when i go back to the store again. swear at this point i live there half the time.

 

[GoodShit97]

that's what i was thinking, especially given there's that secondary switch too. i looked up how those are wired about a month ago because i was curious, didn't take that into account when i was at the big orange box store. oh well. luckily flipping breakers is easy. will make sure to pay better attention when i go back to the store again. swear at this point i live there half the time.

Dude when i redid my trailer wiring it was an absolute nightware. A lot of the stuff i ended up just taking right out and running new wire because it was easier to just crawl under the place and rip it out.

You're gonna make 400 more trips to that orange box store... lmao.

Itll be worth it in the end tho man.

 

[GoodShit97]

I believe its the red wire that is a constant power even when one switch is off that way the other one still controls the same circuit.

My electrical is rusty so take it with a grain of salt lol.
I dont do it daily and usually have to call my father to confirm everything i do so i dont blow shit up lmao

 

[tobh]

Dude when i redid my trailer wiring it was an absolute nightware. A lot of the stuff i ended up just taking right out and running new wire because it was easier to just crawl under the place and rip it out.

You're gonna make 400 more trips to that orange box store... lmao.

Itll be worth it in the end tho man.

lucky most of what i've found looks to be done correctly based off my limited understanding. most everything is grounded with the exception of a few switches. every outlet i've replaced has been grounded.

nothing shady has been found, yet, aside from in the utility room where that's just a can of worms due to the previous owners operation. but there's no telling what else is gonna be found. i'm just a dumb homeowner doing simple shit for aesthetic reasons only lol

 

[steamroller]

3 ways let you interrupt or activate the light from either location.
The red is the common attach to the black terminal screw on most 3 way switches.
You wanna have fun hook up a 4 way with 3 separate switches~!

 

[tobh]

lucky most of what i've found looks to be done correctly based off my limited understanding. most everything is grounded with the exception of a few switches. every outlet i've replaced has been grounded.

nothing shady has been found, yet, aside from in the utility room where that's just a can of worms due to the previous owners operation. but there's no telling what else is gonna be found. i'm just a dumb homeowner doing simple shit for aesthetic reasons only lol

shit, that's a good idea! i'll shoot the pic to my buddy that's a master electrician. he'll confirm for sure.

 

[tobh]

3 ways let you interrupt or activate the light from either location.
The red is the common attach to the black terminal screw on most 3 way switches.
You wanna have fun hook up a 4 way with 3 separate switches~!

there are a couple of those in this house. i don't look forward to the day i'm changing those out for non-builder grade shit. luckily swapping switches tends to be an exercise of moving wires to their respective locations lol good looking out! confirmation is super helpful.

 

[Pipecarver]

I believe its the red wire that is a constant power even when one switch is off that way the other one still controls the same circuit.

My electrical is rusty so take it with a grain of salt lol.
I dont do it daily and usually have to call my father to confirm everything i do so i dont blow shit up lmao

I could be wrong too its been a while as well but I believe the Black is hot with 2 travellers. There is no neutral there. The neutral's are spliced together in the box and it is a 3 way.

 

[tobh]

I could be wrong too its been a while as well but I believe the Black is hot with 2 travellers. There is no neutral there. The neutral's are spliced together in the box

yeah, i think you're right. the common is functioning as the neutral, the neutral in this case goes on to feed the lights, and the black is the constant.

 

[GrumpAzz]

WTF is going on here? I've not seen a red wire yet... This switch controls two lights, and there's another switch on the circuit that controls the same lights. Thinking the single pole switch I bought to replace this one was a bad purchase..
View attachment 22797

So in this situation, most likely, your power hits the light first, then down to the switch with 12/2, then over and back in that 12/3. My best guess is that the black wire on the switch is your HOT. The red and white are the TRAVELERS over to the other 3-way switch. The black from the 12/3, the one that's tied to the white of the 12/2, is the SWITCHLEG from the second 3-way straight to the lights. Your whites, in this case, will occasionally be HOT.

3-ways have nothing to do with the number of lights being switched on. 3-ways come into play when you have more than one switching location. 3 or more requires 4-ways between the 3-ways.

 

[GoodShit97]

I could be wrong too its been a while as well but I believe the Black is hot with 2 travellers. There is no neutral there. The neutral's are spliced together in the box and it is a 3 way.

I honestly dont remember, Its been too long and the only 3 way i have is in my hallway and i always struggled with 3 way and 4 way switches

 

[Pipecarver]

The hot and neutral enter the box as a 2 wire and the red and white and black on the 3 wire. For some reason they used a white as a travelling hot rather than Red and Black. It looks like they spliced the black to the white making the black neutral at the other end and the white a switched hot?????/ that's not right imho red and black should be the switched hots not the white.......

 

[tobh]

So in this situation, most likely, your power hits the light first, then down to the switch with 12/2, then over and back in that 12/3. My best guess is that the black wire on the switch is your HOT. The red and white are the TRAVELERS over to the other 3-way switch. The black from the 12/3, the one that's tied to the white of the 12/2, is the SWITCHLEG from the second 3-way straight to the lights. Your whites, in this case, will occasionally be HOT.

3-ways have nothing to do with the number of lights being switched on. 3-ways come into play when you have more than one switching location. 3 or more requires 4-ways between the 3-ways.

awesome, appreciate the explanation. the red threw me as i've not seen that color yet and was like "wtf are you?" especially since it wasn't just a short patch wire to extend another, it goes into that 12/3 like you said.

 

[GrumpAzz]

I could be wrong too its been a while as well but I believe the Black is hot with 2 travellers. There is no neutral there. The neutral's are spliced together in the box and it is a 3 way.

This is sort of right. The NEUTRAL is up in the light box and never comes down to the switch. Those whites in the switch box need to be identified with a strip of tape indicating that they're not neutrals.

 

[tobh]

it really doesn't help i've got a mix of white romex and this black 12g wire. i don't really understand why there's the mix between the two, especially since half the switches i've swapped are fed by white romex and the others the black shit.

 

[Pipecarver]

So in this situation, most likely, your power hits the light first, then down to the switch with 12/2, then over and back in that 12/3. My best guess is that the black wire on the switch is your HOT. The red and white are the TRAVELERS over to the other 3-way switch. The black from the 12/3, the one that's tied to the white of the 12/2, is the SWITCHLEG from the second 3-way straight to the lights. Your whites, in this case, will occasionally be HOT.

3-ways have nothing to do with the number of lights being switched on. 3-ways come into play when you have more than one switching location. 3 or more requires 4-ways between the 3-ways.

All #14 there 12's too big and unnecessary for residential lighting circuits