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#12 fits…tight. I used it as I got deals at work. Bitch to remove sometimes. Don’t use the screws but can see that being a problem.
Cheaper and cheaper materials......Are you saying you're breaking the switch while using a #12 that you've quick wired??.......If that's the case I see the #12 as the problem....soon as you put some stress on the switch pushing it into the box the cheap bakelite snaps? Not much of a body on the new switches anyways....fk they used to be $3 when I was wiring 30 years ago and they're $2 at the dollar store now
Yeah you guys run a higher voltage, correct? Higher voltage equates to less amperage. For some reason I'm thinking 347v or something weird like that. That could be Australia. We're almost strictly 120/240v single phase services for residential.
Here we have the NEC Handbook. Same book but it also includes illustrations and a simplified explanation. It's an awesome book for sure, but it's not allowed for license tests.
No we're same as you 110/ 220 v Europe is 220 v.....we use Lumex though..... no Romex up here.....and you guys and fking Philips screws.......lol...Robertson for the win.....
Our newer screws are combination flat/phillips/square. It's real dump though. The side screws use a #2 square and the support screws are #1. Super dumb
Romex is just the armoured cable isn’t it? I used it here about 15+ years ago. It gone now or I’m mistaken?
Armored cable used to be BX and lately it's MC or metal clad
These might be Leviton. If so need to get wife to email from work. They will step up…or at least used to. If on sale crap then ya, name brand time.
Ya bx is what we called it. with the red plastic inserts.
just like the super useful switch in the garage at my old place. you turn off the switch to shut off the garage lights, and you also turn off the garage opener which would quickly forget its settings. i ended up taping that switch to the on position after having to reconfigure the garage door a half dozen times.
yeah, that's my concern with #12. shit is heavy, and all the circuit breakers here are 15 amp minus the one that runs the subpanel for all the appliances. no sense is having a conductor that can support significantly more amperage than the circuit breaker can handle.
wtf lol i've punched switches and broken the boxes loose in the wall, never have i seen a switch break like that.
It just Identifies it as a 20 amp and 20 amp male plugs have that L on a pin...15 amp is different than a 20 and is different than a 30 and 40 amp is different than a 30
a 20 amp male plug will have 1 vertical (the hot one, signifying 120v) and 1 horizontal (the neutral, signifying 20a). This prevents you from plugging a 20 amp poece of equipment into a device rated for only 15. Doesn't matter if you plug a 15 amp piece of equipment into a 20 amp recept so the 20 amp recepts accept both.
347 volt is for commercial applications not home owners.
You work with Lutron or other lighting control stuff much? I swapped out all my light switches for the Caseda devices and we really like them.
Well, yeah lol current is not all the same. Good to clarify though. I can't think of any reason residential would run higher than 20 amp though? At least in the US, afaik everything residential is predominantly 200 amp service, and the power companies raise an eyebrow if someone requests higher than that.
Ah ok. That's what I was wondering. Suppose I could've googled it. I've just never seen a plug that uses that horizontal portion of the plug, though I've seen em a lot in commercial buildings
Maybe an old wall and the one you're installing the box i to is an addition? Are they loose? Just cut really easy and have a look-see.
They were scraps that someone decided it was more convenient to bury them in a wall than to toss em. Fuckers lol
That's why I asked if they were loose
Yeah right away I knew they were loose, I was like WTF is this some kind of shade tree electrician shit or was someone just being a lazy asshole? Turned out to be the latter. I too am being a lazy asshole by leaving thwm in thereThat's why I asked if they were loose
Better than finding a piss bottle in thereYeah right away I knew they were loose, I was like WTF is this some kind of shade tree electrician shit or was someone just being a lazy asshole? Turned out to be the latter. I too am being a lazy asshole by leaving thwm in there
It's only a matter of timeBetter than finding a piss bottle in there
No I've never seen it as protection. We have to use metal plates over studs where our holes we pull the wire through are too close to the front of the stud in residential wiring. So the drywall screws don't go through the wire but I've no idea why it would be hanging between studs
I'll be honest, when I cut in a new device, the piece to be removed just gets shoved into the hole. If I'm on a commercial site, it's pretty much a trash receptacle before the box gets installed. Out of sight, out of mindAdded insulation
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