Rootsruler
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Sometimes this is the only true way to learn trial and error , we have a couple guys here who run strictly organic I know @stonemason has a good soul recipe pointed somewhere as well as @CannaGranny - if you can find it thru her 10,000 + post thread ! Congrats grannieI've been made aware of how important taking care of the roots is recently. I've been considering that this might be the primacy of growing weed.
So I've been reading about creating a super soil and the pros and cons of different amendments.
What I'm getting at is as I write down what I want to include, spaghnum, coco, perlite this base is looking a lot like what I am using now (MG and coco).
My only problem with MG was my plant got too big and root bound and I wasn't experienced enough to know to start using nutes at week six. I can only imagine how it would look now if I would have started feeding it then.
If I did a 2nd plant, another "auto" same cultivar. And if I used a grow bag instead of plastic pot, and added Myko and more perlite (and coco) to promote better drainage while allowing oxygen to flow to the roots, and started feeding about week 6 . . . I think it's reasonable to say I would have significantly improved overall health and size of plant and yield.
I will try some of the popular cannabis centric soil mixes that have been recommended here going forward so I can see firsthand what it's like using these. But, I might have to try using MG plus additional perlite one more time so I can know firsthand about this as well. I will always wonder if I don't.
I have learned that some people are sensitive about MG for weed. I understand the environmental aspects of it, but based on my first experience I'm wondering how many of the people that say don't use it because it will be bad for your plant and maybe kill it have ever used MG before? In this sense are they just parroting things they have heard?
All things considered, I am having a good experience with my modified 70/30 mix now and have to wonder about the percentage of improvement from dialing this in further, and doing this again with the above further modifications.
I keep wondering why you said to cut the calcium if the rust spots continue?Nice ! Hope it turns out well we all love to use what’s on hand , good call with the no N ! If rust spots continue cut the calcium
Yea it's overall, underfed, or one could word it, given the environment it's in, it needs more "vitamins" to keep up/pace.Leafs are showing me a potassium deficiency.
When it’s a calcium deficiency they also look like that, but tend to curl up.
Some of those are curled some are not.
I’d say a good dose of both would set you straight!
Very quick remedy, on that frontSpray that plant with some epsom salt/water mix.
I don't use "miracle grow" products" because the company sucks at quality controlI've been made aware of how important taking care of the roots is recently. I've been considering that this might be the primacy of growing weed.
So I've been reading about creating a super soil and the pros and cons of different amendments.
What I'm getting at is as I write down what I want to include, spaghnum, coco, perlite this base is looking a lot like what I am using now (MG and coco).
My only problem with MG was my plant got too big and root bound and I wasn't experienced enough to know to start using nutes at week six. I can only imagine how it would look now if I would have started feeding it then.
If I did a 2nd plant, another "auto" same cultivar. And if I used a grow bag instead of plastic pot, and added Myko and more perlite (and coco) to promote better drainage while allowing oxygen to flow to the roots, and started feeding about week 6 . . . I think it's reasonable to say I would have significantly improved overall health and size of plant and yield.
I will try some of the popular cannabis centric soil mixes that have been recommended here going forward so I can see firsthand what it's like using these. But, I might have to try using MG plus additional perlite one more time so I can know firsthand about this as well. I will always wonder if I don't.
I have learned that some people are sensitive about MG for weed. I understand the environmental aspects of it, but based on my first experience I'm wondering how many of the people that say don't use it because it will be bad for your plant and maybe kill it have ever used MG before? In this sense are they just parroting things they have heard?
All things considered, I am having a good experience with my modified 70/30 mix now and have to wonder about the percentage of improvement from dialing this in further, and doing this again with the above further modifications.
I was tripping balls and wanted to dissect thisI’ll stick with my original diagnosis- locked out from the wet release soil just to hot specifically for auto , flush the fuck out of it or get some new soil and try to salvage sonething ? Otherwise it’s just going to continue to eat itself . IMO if you feed it it will get worse .
In the future think about growing photo seeds it’s gives you much more room to fix your plants . Autos imo are not for beginners but that’s just my opinion
Steam hit right in the head if this truly locked up adding more calcium will just make it worse ,I keep wondering why you said to cut the calcium if the rust spots continue?
Nice chart I’m grabbing that !Too much calcium will lock everything else out.
That is the concern I believe.
View attachment 41357
Chart is posted in our charts forum.Nice chart I’m grabbing that !
She seems like she's back to being a thriving plant. I feel like her buds are almost growing before my eyes. I will be watering her again today (first time since nute cocktail 5 days ago), the newbie in me wants to give her more food to eat, but not sure?how’s she looking today ?
That makes perfect sense about easier to fix too little. I'll remember that!You'll find as you go it is easier to fix giving too little than to fix too much.
I also think you will like photos better than autos.
Most agree the autos are more demanding since they set the schedule not you.
Variables.Rust spots = Ca but again
Variables
Ca mG P and K all correlate here.
And heading towards N deficiency
Just so you are aware. Auto seeds are modified to flower so there are no issues with whether they are male or female. Feminized seeds are seeds that have been chemically induced to express female traits. Photo seeds will be either male or female. If you pop any of them you may or may not get a male. Most will trash them at first sign so as not to pollinate any females you may have.
I suggest before you toss them to collect the pollen and save it in case you want to make more seeds.
I just realized reading this that I've been compartmentalizing the way I think about nutrients and attempt to diagnose issues. I've been looking at the energy of nutes in isolation of each other.Variables.
Nothing is "static" everything is "dynamic"
Literally EVERYTHING vibrates at a resonant frequency.
The leaves are still attachedLow dose feed, slow and steady, remove all dead leafs
These large diseased fan leaves are still firmly attached. Are you suggesting that I cut them off?Low dose feed, slow and steady, remove all dead leafs
Yea leaves more than 50% spent can just be cut off.
They will never recover.
That is just how deficiencies work.
You watch new growth to see if you repaired it because the existing damage only gets worse.
You have met a plant that loves and will reward you for applying the right kind of stress~!Thanks for making that clear man
You know I've never even seen a weed plant in person before this one, let alone try to grow one. And, with you and everyone here helping me from an experienced point of view it's like who am I to question anything? But, I have to wonder if making these cuts wouldn't somehow stress her or outweigh benefits from removing these leaves. Her buds just look so lush and excellent and seem to be growing before my eyes every time I look . . . from my inexperienced thinking I should wait until they fall off on their own to remove them from the area. Do you think there is any validity to my thoughts? This is just what seems right to me as a first time grower.![]()
Let’s chat a bit about ph. What type of water are you using? What’s the ph pointI have been noticing early signs of rust spots on previously unaffected leaves again. It is moving slowly as opposed to spreading like wildfire like last time.
The next time I can water will be on Wednesday. I'm thinking of giving her a cocktail like last time only a low dose cocktail of -- cal/mag, fish emulsion 5-1-1, and bloom 0-10-10.
I gave her only water last time, so now I'm wondering about feeding her again this time based on reading the leaves.
I know she won't grow any new leaves at this stage being an auto , but I'm wondering about helping bud growth now. Any thoughts please?
and how are you controlling that?I know they aren’t crazy about a lot of food. I assume my soil took care of that.I only grow autos and i feed with every watering till run off also i add epsom salt every watering. I feed about a quarter of what they recommend and watch plant if it shows signs it needs more nutrients i up it.
Let’s chat a bit about ph. What type of water are you using? What’s the ph point View attachment 41941and how are you controlling that?
One thing that has been my experience with autos..they are not big on food at all.
Pics of the last autos I grew. These were planted in Fox Farms soils. Bottom third, Ocean Forest, top two thirds Fox Farm Happy Frog along with some organic amendments. Only water ph’ed for its entire life cycle.
Thank you. I have been interested in using epsom salts.I only grow autos and i feed with every watering till run off also i add epsom salt every watering. I feed about a quarter of what they recommend and watch plant if it shows signs it needs more nutrients i up it.