One_bell here, newbie and need advice on RDWC and auto's for 2nd run

[Driver77]

I also like to remove the top 2 fan leaves that are covering the side sprouts early to help even things up. Like this plant at this stage.

 

[MiGrampa]

That's what I do...also pulling a fan leaf or 2 off the fastest growing cola during stretch will slow it a touch and let others catch up. Tucking and lst mostly....those little clips for bending stems are handy too.View attachment 98001

The clips work well except don't leave them on too long. Otherwise they won't be able to be removed until after the grow. The stems will fatten up quickly so keep an eye on them.

 

[One_Bell]

Day 21 since sprouting:

Left one





Right one





As you can see the right one is still lacking behind. I hope this will improve over time.
Life at the reservoir was steady and ph is now going back 0.1 to 5.8 again. It has been over 14 days that I swapped the reservoir and PPM readings are 290 now (previously 300) waterline is still declining.



Should I do a res change with a little bit more fresh nutes, just top it off with ph'ed RO water or topping off with a nutrient solution?

The lights are at 350 PPFD, should I slowly increase this?

 

[One_Bell]

Good morning, Some new pictures of the ladies:








pH did rise back to 5.9 EC is still 0,4, PPM was 280 this morning, so it is slowly declining.

 

[Driver77]

The second plant looks like it's getting mag deficiency. May be time to up the ec a bit?

 

[One_Bell]

The second plant looks like it's getting mag deficiency. May be time to up the ec a bit?

Should I increase it to 0,5 EC? Ppm had dropped to 270 (started at 310 with this res).

 

[Stoneyluv]

Should I increase it to 0,5 EC? Ppm had dropped to 270 (started at 310 with this res).

i've been following along here One Bell, i'm sorry i don't have much advice as i am just leaning hydro myself. our setups are similar though. and if and when i get to the point you are, where you need to either top off or change out and have to decide what to do, i plan to just follow Aqua's top off method.. it seems simple enough and his method goes by actual plant usage and not a chart and guess.

RDWC advanced top up method explained by Aqua Man

Ok I'm going to explain a more complex way of maintaining our systems for those looking to use best practices (IMO only) There are many ways this can be done but I feel this gives the most stability for PH, PPM, NUTRIENT RATIOS (super important) especially in systems with a low water volume. So...

budbuilders.org

i really just wanted to show face and say hello and maybe we can both learn something here.

 

[MiGrampa]

i've been following along here One Bell, i'm sorry i don't have much advice as i am just leaning hydro myself. our setups are similar though. and if and when i get to the point you are, where you need to either top off or change out and have to decide what to do, i plan to just follow Aqua's top off method.. it seems simple enough and his method goes by actual plant usage and not a chart and guess.

RDWC advanced top up method explained by Aqua Man

Ok I'm going to explain a more complex way of maintaining our systems for those looking to use best practices (IMO only) There are many ways this can be done but I feel this gives the most stability for PH, PPM, NUTRIENT RATIOS (super important) especially in systems with a low water volume. So...

budbuilders.org

i really just wanted to show face and say hello and maybe we can both learn something here.

I've been watching the thread to try to learn what I can. I haven't grown anything in an RDWC system yet but that will be changing soon. I'm in the middle of building one. I think I will run some clones from a future grow for my first run. This thread has been pretty informative so far.

 

[Driver77]

Should I increase it to 0,5 EC? Ppm had dropped to 270 (started at 310 with this res).

I would...if the ec is dropping that means it's consuming more nutrient than water and showing slight signs of deficiency.
I just top mine off....unless I have a problem I just top off throughout the grow.

 

[Stoneyluv]

I've been watching the thread to try to learn what I can. I haven't grown anything in an RDWC system yet but that will be changing soon. I'm in the middle of building one. I think I will run some clones from a future grow for my first run. This thread has been pretty informative so far.

the only thing that can say to that is do it! just dive in man!! i've had every kind of problem and still struggling and can't even explain how much fun it's been. i love the engineering side of it so building it was a lot of fun for me and just the whole newness that comes from it makes it so interesting to me.

i could easily see myself taking a break from soil for little while once i work out my issues.

 

[Driver77]

i've been following along here One Bell, i'm sorry i don't have much advice as i am just leaning hydro myself. our setups are similar though. and if and when i get to the point you are, where you need to either top off or change out and have to decide what to do, i plan to just follow Aqua's top off method.. it seems simple enough and his method goes by actual plant usage and not a chart and guess.

RDWC advanced top up method explained by Aqua Man

Ok I'm going to explain a more complex way of maintaining our systems for those looking to use best practices (IMO only) There are many ways this can be done but I feel this gives the most stability for PH, PPM, NUTRIENT RATIOS (super important) especially in systems with a low water volume. So...

budbuilders.org

i really just wanted to show face and say hello and maybe we can both learn something here.

This is great information....and laid out so even I understood it!

 

[Skinnypuppy80]

I would...if the ec is dropping that means it's consuming more nutrient than water and showing slight signs of deficiency.
I just top mine off....unless I have a problem I just top off throughout the grow.

Yeah, from what I've heard, u wanna keep the ppms and ph stagnant, the sweet spot if u will. Disclaimer: complete newb advice!

 

[Stoneyluv]

This is great information....and laid out so even I understood it!

it's simple, effective, and takes all the guess work out of it.

Yeah, from what I've heard, u wanna keep the ppms and ph stagnant, the sweet spot if u will. Disclaimer: complete newb advice!

you're absolutely correct here.. the plants are already coded on how to grow, it's our jobs as growers just to keep them stress free. and stability is what they like the most.

 

[Observer]

this was my first DWC attempt

didnt get to finish her out though. look forward to doing it again when i can.

 

[One_Bell]

Day 23 since sprouting:





Right one:





Overview:



So I did a res change this evening. Took about 20 liters out and put 20 liters fresh nutrient mix in there, I upped the EC to 0.6 (ppm 410 x700).






Edit: I lowered the pH so I can test out auqamans recommendation of starting low at 5.6 and let it drift to 6.0 if I got that right.

 

[One_Bell]

It also seems that in the right bucket the aeration is minor compared to the leftt one. I took out one bubbling stone which did not create bubbles and replaced it with a brand new one. Not miuch bubble increasement so I need to look into that ASAP. I do have another airpump as a replacement.

I followed this chart for the this feeding:

	ml per liter recomm. TA	half or recommend dose per liter	per 10 liter
micro	1,2	0,6	6
grow	1,8	0,9	9
bloom	0,6	0,3	3
fulvic	2	1	10
seaweed	5	2,5	25
urtimax	30	10	100

I mix up buckets of 10 liters for this chart, adding some great white and some ph adjustments.

And from now on I will try out the opping off method of aquaman: https://budbuilders.org/threads/rdwc-advanced-top-up-method-explained-by-aqua-man.209/

And contuining with 24/7 light schedule @ 400PPFD at the moment

 

[MiGrampa]

It also seems that in the left bucket the aeration is minor compared to the right one. I took out one bubbling stone which did not create bubbles and replaced it with a brand new one. Not miuch bubble increasement so I need to look into that ASAP. I do have another airpump as a replacement.

I followed this chart for the this feeding:

	ml per liter recomm. TA	half or recommend dose per liter	per 10 liter
micro	1,2	0,6	6
grow	1,8	0,9	9
bloom	0,6	0,3	3
fulvic	2	1	10
seaweed	5	2,5	25
urtimax	30	10	100

I mix up buckets of 10 liters for this chart, adding some great white and some ph adjustments.

Use more than one air pump or upgrade to a larger pump. If air pump noise is a concern, hang it from a bungie strap and that strap will absorb a lot of the vibration. Any manifold you're using should have flow control valves on them. Opening or partially shutting those might help even out the air pressure.

 

[steamroller]

If you are looking for a new pump, Alita's are rock solid pumps and possibly the quietest around for their power.

Alita AL-6A Linear Air Pump

Runs on 13 watts and has a air output of 10 lpm @ 1.4 psi. Supplied discharge fittings: 3/16" & 3/8" barb, 3/8" barb with 5mm ID

kensfish.com

Alita Air Pumps

Alita air pumps are very quiet and dependable. The Alita pumps come in a range of sizes that can drive 6 outlets or over 200 outlets. Alita pumps are excellent for fish rooms and are very easily rebuilt.

kensfish.com

I used the min my fishroom and would never use a different brand again.

 

[Driver77]

It also seems that in the right bucket the aeration is minor compared to the leftt one. I took out one bubbling stone which did not create bubbles and replaced it with a brand new one. Not miuch bubble increasement so I need to look into that ASAP. I do have another airpump as a replacement.

I followed this chart for the this feeding:

	ml per liter recomm. TA	half or recommend dose per liter	per 10 liter
micro	1,2	0,6	6
grow	1,8	0,9	9
bloom	0,6	0,3	3
fulvic	2	1	10
seaweed	5	2,5	25
urtimax	30	10	100

I mix up buckets of 10 liters for this chart, adding some great white and some ph adjustments.

And from now on I will try out the opping off method of aquaman: https://budbuilders.org/threads/rdwc-advanced-top-up-method-explained-by-aqua-man.209/

And contuining with 24/7 light schedule @ 400PPFD at the moment

I don't use myco's(Great White) in hydro. Not sure if it even does anything?? I thought it needed soil to interact with but may be wrong.

 

[Observer]

I don't use myco's(Great White) in hydro. Not sure if it even does anything?? I thought it needed soil to interact with but may be wrong.

It works, it colonizes the roots, and can still create a symbiotic relationship.

I've been wanting to get liquid mycorrhizae; Orca, to use in my AeroTote.

 

[One_Bell]

Some pictures from this morning:

 

[Driver77]

Some pictures from this morning:

View attachment 98785

View attachment 98786

View attachment 98787

View attachment 98788

They look darker than your last pic of roots. Are you checking for root rot?
I didn't see if your running sterile or BB....

 

[One_Bell]

If you are looking for a new pump, Alita's are rock solid pumps and possibly the quietest around for their power.

Alita AL-6A Linear Air Pump

Runs on 13 watts and has a air output of 10 lpm @ 1.4 psi. Supplied discharge fittings: 3/16" & 3/8" barb, 3/8" barb with 5mm ID

kensfish.com

Alita Air Pumps

Alita air pumps are very quiet and dependable. The Alita pumps come in a range of sizes that can drive 6 outlets or over 200 outlets. Alita pumps are excellent for fish rooms and are very easily rebuilt.

kensfish.com

I used the min my fishroom and would never use a different brand again.

Sorry for the long wait response. First thing I did was upgrading the airpump, I now use the Hailea V20 (20l/pm) allmost three times as much as the stock one (Hailea Aco 9602), and I can use three lines per plant instead of one. Everything air-wise is functioning as it should now. Glad I had new airstones in stock, worst case I also have a brand new V20 in stock so I can replace it immediately when the time comes.

I don't use myco's(Great White) in hydro. Not sure if it even does anything?? I thought it needed soil to interact with but may be wrong.

It works, it colonizes the roots, and can still create a symbiotic relationship.

I've been wanting to get liquid mycorrhizae; Orca, to use in my AeroTote.

I asked the plant revolution and they mailed me back with quite the honest reply if you ask me:

Honestly Great White is the best all around product for Hydroponics. You can experiment with low doses of Mycochum. It will add some microbe stimulators that may improve Great White’s efficacy. Orca would be redundant to Great White. King Crab is worth experimenting with. It really enhances the bacteria count on Great White.

Great White by itself is still my go-to advice.

JIm Eagan

So I kept using Great White and decided not adding Orca, Mycochum and King Crab(last one being to expensive).

They look darker than your last pic of roots. Are you checking for root rot?
I didn't see if your running sterile or BB....

That is probably because of the light and staining from the nutes. The water is 18C continues and I use Great White which are beneficials if I got it right. More pics of this morning:

Day 29 since sprouting:

Left one:




Right one:





They are not growing as quickly as the F1 Orion's from the first round. They finally did started to drink and PPM's fell back to 320, so I've topped of the res to 420 again (EC 0.6). The one on the right still seems behind the left one. Until this point they had 24/7 light, I am thinking of scaling back to 18/6 to give them some rest.

For reference the Orion's on day 30: (which I overfed and had on a 18/6 schedule)

 

[Observer]

its myco and beneficial bacteria

The key ingredients in Great White Premium Mycorrhizae include:

Endomycorrhizae:

• Glomus aggregatum
• Glomus intraradices
• Glomus mosseae
• Glomus etunicatum
• Glomus clarum
• Glomus monosporum
• Paraglomus brazilianum
• Glomus deserticola
• Gigaspora margarita

Ectomycorrhizae:

• Pisolithus tinctorius
• Rhizopogon luteolus
• Rhizopogon fulvigleba
• Rhizopogon villosullus
• Rhizopogon amylopogon
• Scleroderma citrinum
• Scleroderma cepa

Beneficial Bacteria:

• Azotobacter chroococcum
• Bacillus subtilis
• Bacillus licheniformis
• Bacillus azotoformans
• Bacillus megaterium
• Bacillus coagulans
• Bacillus pumilus
• Bacillus amyloliquefaciens
• Paenibacillus durum
• Paenibacillus polymyxa
• Saccharomyces cerevisiae (Yeast)
• Pseudomonas aureofaciens
• Pseudomonas fluorescens

Trichoderma:

• Trichoderma koningii
• Trichoderma harzianum

""This combination of microorganisms is designed to form a symbiotic relationship with plant roots, promoting healthier and more vigorous growth.""

 

[Driver77]

Sorry for the long wait response. First thing I did was upgrading the airpump, I now use the Hailea V20 (20l/pm) allmost three times as much as the stock one (Hailea Aco 9602), and I can use three lines per plant instead of one. Everything air-wise is functioning as it should now. Glad I had new airstones in stock, worst case I also have a brand new V20 in stock so I can replace it immediately when the time comes.




I asked the plant revolution and they mailed me back with quite the honest reply if you ask me:

Honestly Great White is the best all around product for Hydroponics. You can experiment with low doses of Mycochum. It will add some microbe stimulators that may improve Great White’s efficacy. Orca would be redundant to Great White. King Crab is worth experimenting with. It really enhances the bacteria count on Great White.

Great White by itself is still my go-to advice.

JIm Eagan

So I kept using Great White and decided not adding Orca, Mycochum and King Crab(last one being to expensive).


That is probably because of the light and staining from the nutes. The water is 18C continues and I use Great White which are beneficials if I got it right. More pics of this morning:

Day 29 since sprouting:

Left one:
View attachment 99400

View attachment 99401

Right one:

View attachment 99398

View attachment 99399

They are not growing as quickly as the F1 Orion's from the first round. They finally did started to drink and PPM's fell back to 320, so I've topped of the res to 420 again (EC 0.6). The one on the right still seems behind the left one. Until this point they had 24/7 light, I am thinking of scaling back to 18/6 to give them some rest.

For reference the Orion's on day 30: (which I overfed and had on a 18/6 schedule)

Like @Observer said the beneficial bacteria most use in hydro systems is not the same as Great White....I use "Hydroguard" for my BB to keep the bad things away. I may try some GW in the rdwc to see what happens.

 

[One_Bell]

Like @Observer said the beneficial bacteria most use in hydro systems is not the same as Great White....I use "Hydroguard" for my BB to keep the bad things away. I may try some GW in the rdwc to see what happens.

Make sure before adding that hydroguard is not killing the bennies in Great White, I don't know if they are compatible.

 

[One_Bell]

its myco and beneficial bacteria

The key ingredients in Great White Premium Mycorrhizae include:

Endomycorrhizae:

• Glomus aggregatum
• Glomus intraradices
• Glomus mosseae
• Glomus etunicatum
• Glomus clarum
• Glomus monosporum
• Paraglomus brazilianum
• Glomus deserticola
• Gigaspora margarita

Ectomycorrhizae:

• Pisolithus tinctorius
• Rhizopogon luteolus
• Rhizopogon fulvigleba
• Rhizopogon villosullus
• Rhizopogon amylopogon
• Scleroderma citrinum
• Scleroderma cepa

Beneficial Bacteria:

• Azotobacter chroococcum
• Bacillus subtilis
• Bacillus licheniformis
• Bacillus azotoformans
• Bacillus megaterium
• Bacillus coagulans
• Bacillus pumilus
• Bacillus amyloliquefaciens
• Paenibacillus durum
• Paenibacillus polymyxa
• Saccharomyces cerevisiae (Yeast)
• Pseudomonas aureofaciens
• Pseudomonas fluorescens

Trichoderma:

• Trichoderma koningii
• Trichoderma harzianum

""This combination of microorganisms is designed to form a symbiotic relationship with plant roots, promoting healthier and more vigorous growth.""

If compared to liquid Orca you will notice Orca has less stuff in it the listed above, hence the reaction if Jim I guess. I would love to try King Crab to add, but it is to expensive for me to just try out (because of the shelve life, 6 months according to Jim).

 

[One_Bell]

Would there be any disadvantage at putting the light back from 24/7 to 18/6 hour schedule at this stage of the growth?

 

[Driver77]

Would there be any disadvantage at putting the light back from 24/7 to 18/6 hour schedule at this stage of the growth?

I'm not a fan of 24/7 after week 2...I think we tend to push to hard with lights...at least I do.

 

[One_Bell]

Some pics of last monday:



Now, two days later the one on the left seems to struggle:





Currently the one on the right looks better:



I removed the yellow crispy leaves and did some LST:



Last monday I topped the reservoir to 420ppm again, yesterday I switched back to the 18/6 schedule for the lights. VPD is between 1 and 1.2, pH went from 5.8 to 6.1 the last couple of days and the plants seem to be drinking. They do not look really happy

I do see budsites being developped and white hairs are slowly rising, so at least I've got that going lol