Limo tint the windows????
lol nah. that was actually something listed in the police report re: previous owner's grow op.

"all windows were observed to be blacked out, preventing visibility to what activities may be happening inside the house." or something along those lines. lemme pull up the police report and I'll screenshot the exact verbiage lol
 
i thought it was interesting they felt need to mention that. as if covering or "blacking out" windows in your private residence is impeding on some legal jurisdiction to observe everything that happens in a home. pretty sure the law agrees with implied privacy within private property structures, and however a resident chooses to treat their windows to increase privacy should be inconsequential, regardless of any activities happening inside, legal or not.

wonder what their argument would be if i opened the dining room blinds and helicoptered my cock for the world to see? they'd probably have something to say about that in the reverse.. just saying.
 
tried that before, 420 CFM is pretty hardcore for a 4x4. if it weren't for the humidity i'm battling i would turn the fans down. with the garage at a steady 30%RH the tent still sits mid to high 60% almost consistently. that's even with the dehuey exhaust pointed right at the intake inlet. can't wait for the second defoliation, i'll be able to manage RH better again.

all these microclimate issues are the whole reason for the plans to build a dedicated space for this crap. not only is a PITA getting dialed in a new place, but when you're dealing with 16sqft of surface area, the swings in heat and RH are crazy difficult to get right. Doesn't help the garage is close to 350sqft if i had to guess, so for a dinky little space heater and 70 pint dehuey, it's a lot of space to heat while battling leaks through 1/2"-1" gaps around the garage doors.
Right. Forgot about the RH issues.
And agree fully, that's why I built my shed with full control, heater, dehu, AC etc. Set it and forget it kinda shit makes grow life a lot easier.
 
lol nah. that was actually something listed in the police report re: previous owner's grow op.

"all windows were observed to be blacked out, preventing visibility to what activities may be happening inside the house." or something along those lines. lemme pull up the police report and I'll screenshot the exact verbiage lol
When i grew in a condo unit years ago I built boxed in false walls behind the windows and had a little nightlight on a timer come on between the wall and the window in the evenings, just behind the drapes so it just looks like a normal room from outside.
 
Screenshot_2023-10-30_17-24-14.png
i blacked out names and additional info. this part here is the one major thing that bothers me most about the report. the rest is pretty standard from what you'd expect a commercial scale illegal grow op investigation to entail, but making it harder to observe what's happening inside a private residence is apparently a red flag?

they can fuck right off with that. either that, or ask anyone that knows me IRL. I'm not afraid to show a motherfucker my hairy brown eye without tucking my balls. if you want a show, you'll get more than you bargained for lol
 
When i grew in a condo unit years ago I built boxed in false walls behind the windows and had a little nightlight on a timer come on between the wall and the window in the evenings, just behind the drapes so it just looks like a normal room from outside.
never thought about doing a light like that. i've done plenty of shadow boxes around windows in my time. always bugged me, though, because if a window is constantly dark, that's an odd thing. even storage rooms get accessed enough to show some kind of activity.
 
So, I have runoff during the maintenance events primarily because I don't have the monitors to deal with water content and EC tracking in the media. If my math is right for each event's volume of solution to volume of media, then there should be minimal runoff, but runoff nonetheless.

Ideally one would be able to have events happen dozens to hundreds of times throughout the day automatically. This would enable much more accurate control over water content and EC in the media, which in turn yields the biggest benefits for using this method. In the primitive style I use it's more of a shooting in the dark and hoping I don't fuck up kind of ordeal. Last run was great, this run is shaping up a little less exciting that I had hoped but I don't have the environment dialed in nearly as well as I did last time.

Really, environment + lighting is just as important as fertigation events are in crop steering. They all play a specific role in extracting the most growth out of the plants and if any of em are out of whack, the benefits are basically nullified.

To add to what @tobh said, what I like to do for say 8 waterings a day, is set the timing so that my first 2 or 3 waterings in the day have no runoff, then a little runoff for watering #3 or #4, and decent runoff for the remainder of the waterings. Without something like a grosens controller it's too risky to go with no runoff. Those last few should rinse out any excess salts. I even like to make the last one twice as long to really rinse them out. But that can be wasteful if you aren't reusing the solution like I was.

Thanks guys

Understand about the lack of tech, pisses me off that no one is making anything for the small scale at a reasonable cost.

I'm currently at 10 events per lights on and it became evidently clear that runoff from maintenance events is going to be needed after just one day. Runoff to target ec was 3.1 from 2.4 yesterday by not getting any runoff except for some drips throughout the last 6 maintenance events. Pots were max full just no runoff.

I'll get this EC reset and get the runoff in order.

This may be my last run with Coco for a while, I have been doing a homemade soil recipe with Dr. Earth and some adds. It's been working excellent the last while. Stuck on a fencepost on direction atm.
 
Thanks guys

Understand about the lack of tech, pisses me off that no one is making anything for the small scale at a reasonable cost.

I'm currently at 10 events per lights on and it became evidently clear that runoff from maintenance events is going to be needed after just one day. Runoff to target ec was 3.1 from 2.4 yesterday by not getting any runoff except for some drips throughout the last 6 maintenance events. Pots were max full just no runoff.

I'll get this EC reset and get the runoff in order.

This may be my last run with Coco for a while, I have been doing a homemade soil recipe with Dr. Earth and some adds. It's been working excellent the last while. Stuck on a fencepost on direction atm.
I'm doing 80ml (4% sub volume) 0.50 half gallon

My coco is gone kinda lo, it's just roots.

I don't have substrate e.c to measure really, just the water run off ?

If I start dry I have to give them that like every 30minutes -2hours by hand

What size are your pots?
 
Thanks guys

Understand about the lack of tech, pisses me off that no one is making anything for the small scale at a reasonable cost.

I'm currently at 10 events per lights on and it became evidently clear that runoff from maintenance events is going to be needed after just one day. Runoff to target ec was 3.1 from 2.4 yesterday by not getting any runoff except for some drips throughout the last 6 maintenance events. Pots were max full just no runoff.

I'll get this EC reset and get the runoff in order.

This may be my last run with Coco for a while, I have been doing a homemade soil recipe with Dr. Earth and some adds. It's been working excellent the last while. Stuck on a fencepost on direction atm.
there are affordable options for small scale, but they require some pretty heavy technical abilities to put together. you'll still end up needing a base budget of roughly $1,000 to build everything, too, because the sensors specifically for water content and EC are crazy expensive unless you buy in bulk (eg, 10,000+ units/order).

i've followed a few DIY projects leveraging the sensors, arduino chips, and raspberry pi's. pretty cool stuff, not terribly hard to build, but the sensors man.. at the prices they are for singles it's just not a sound financial decision to go into them unless you really just like hardware hacking and want to build something very few others have.

imo, if you like some properties of coco but want easier/cleaner processes, rockwool is where it's at.

you don't need to go down the rabbit hole of crop steering and whatnot, either. the primary reason i've fallen in this hole is because i love the technical details i've learned since embarking on the journey and it really is a more economical way of running soilless and hydro systems. reducing runoff to the bare minimum means no wasted water or nutrient solution, which translates to pennies kept in the pocket. at scale, it translates to tens of thousands of dollars in savings over a year.

plus, this knowledge will translate well once i get the first greenhouse built for the farm. i'll be running tomatoes and cucumbers primarily, and rockwool slabs are cheap af and easier to deal with than perlite or rock in dutch buckets. they also require very similar parameters to cannabis, so fucking up some plants now will save a lot of pain and money once i get the food production business going.
 
I'm doing 80ml (4% sub volume) 0.50 half gallon

My coco is gone kinda lo, it's just roots.

I don't have substrate e.c to measure really, just the water run off ?

If I start dry I have to give them that like every 30minutes -2hours by hand

What size are your pots?
that sounds about right. That should be around 3% media volume, which is target for each event (depending on # of events in a light cycle).

my target injections are 150ml, but I'm a little over at just shy of 200ml simply because I rather have runoff hit a little sooner than desired, and flush extra salts, than have a massive EC spike destroy roots. Plus, getting media that's dried too much back to a happy place is a PITA and requires at least one reservoir, if not two, to get things copacetic again. I don't like mixing reservoirs more than I have to lol
 
that sounds about right. That should be around 3% media volume, which is target for each event (depending on # of events in a light cycle).
i gotcha, i was going off of this table here, idk how accurate or what this is based off.
1698714506195.png
(but i dont like odd numbers so i make it 1-4% in my mind) for vegetative steering

but of course, i dont know what the fk im doing with this crop steering thing lol, cool to learn it, or attempt.
my target injections are 150ml, but I'm a little over at just shy of 200ml simply because I rather have runoff hit a little sooner than desired, and flush extra salts, than have a massive EC spike destroy roots. Plus, getting media that's dried too much back to a happy place is a PITA and requires at least one reservoir, if not two, to get things copacetic again. I don't like mixing reservoirs more than I have to lol
i checked my run off ec once, said oh fuck and didnt look again lol, but the plants look 95% healthy IMO (atleast/w.e) im kinda hung over
 
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i gotcha, i was going off of this table here, idk how accurate or what this is based off.
View attachment 27722
(but i dont like odd numbers so i make it 1-4% in my mind) for vegetative steering

but of course, i dont know what the fk im doing with this crop steering thing lol, cool to learn it, or attempt.

i checked my run off ec once, said oh fuck and didnt look again lol
that chart is accurate based off all my research, too. really without the fancy controllers we're just faking it anyways.

runoff EC is much more reliable in rockwool than coco, but you should still keep an eye on it. fuck the pH, that's completely worthless without a direct sample from the media (a slurry test in coco). but, the EC number should be within a few points of input EC or there is too much build up from not keeping the WC in line with the phase of fertigation. max variation from input should not exceed .6 imo. Anything more indicates your not keeping your WC high enough and there's too much pressure on the roots risking lockouts, root damage, or straight up negatively impactful drought conditions.

EDIT: the above is assuming higher EC inputs. If under 2.0 EC it's not really so significant IMO, and below 1.0 EC, the above is irrelevant. Better to consider a percentage vs hard number. 50% greater runoff EC # is probably a better cutoff/benchmark.

Remember, the event timing and drybacks are explicitly to control the WC. introducing drought stress at the right times by decreasing the WC, which causes a spike in EC, or vis a vis. For instance, right now I'm running generative schedule, input is 1.2 EC and runoff (when i check) is about 1.6 on average. If it climbs higher than that, I flush with a fresh res at 1.2. When I revert to the vegetative cycle this weekend, I'll expect run off EC to be somewhere around input EC, +/- .2. Anything higher and I'll flush and evaluate my event timing again.

For sake of simplicity I'm following the exact shit I did last run in the thread at the old place.
 
i could do 3%

why would one want the high end or low end for say generative 4-8%

and sorry, i "was doing" veg steering during transition, and now im aiming for generative 4-8%? for the next couple of weeks
 
that chart is accurate based off all my research, too. really without the fancy controllers we're just faking it anyways.

runoff EC is much more reliable in rockwool than coco, but you should still keep an eye on it. fuck the pH, that's completely worthless without a direct sample from the media (a slurry test in coco). but, the EC number should be within a few points of input EC or there is too much build up from not keeping the WC in line with the phase of fertigation. max variation from input should not exceed .6 imo. Anything more indicates your not keeping your WC high enough and there's too much pressure on the roots risking lockouts, root damage, or straight up negatively impactful drought conditions.
oh, ok. ty

would they build up on the roots?, like its just a roll of roots lol, the coco sub is "gone"

ill check over em lol
Remember, the event timing and drybacks are explicitly to control the WC. introducing drought stress at the right times by decreasing the WC, which causes a spike in EC, or vis a vis. For instance, right now I'm running generative schedule, input is 1.2 EC and runoff (when i check) is about 1.6 on average. If it climbs higher than that, I flush with a fresh res at 1.2. When I revert to the vegetative cycle this weekend, I'll expect run off EC to be somewhere around input EC, +/- .2. Anything higher and I'll flush and evaluate my event timing again.

For sake of simplicity I'm following the exact shit I did last run in the thread at the old place.


ill start checking my e,c again mainly didnt cause of the oh fuck , it was like 3.5 or 4 , maybe high, maybe not, idk, and as i was flushing/switching e/c/nutrients and resetting the substrate, been awhile now, so probably good time to check it
 
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that chart is accurate based off all my research, too. really without the fancy controllers we're just faking it anyways.

runoff EC is much more reliable in rockwool than coco, but you should still keep an eye on it. fuck the pH, that's completely worthless without a direct sample from the media (a slurry test in coco). but, the EC number should be within a few points of input EC or there is too much build up from not keeping the WC in line with the phase of fertigation. max variation from input should not exceed .6 imo. Anything more indicates your not keeping your WC high enough and there's too much pressure on the roots risking lockouts, root damage, or straight up negatively impactful drought conditions.

EDIT: the above is assuming higher EC inputs. If under 2.0 EC it's not really so significant IMO, and below 1.0 EC, the above is irrelevant. Better to consider a percentage vs hard number. 50% greater runoff EC # is probably a better cutoff/benchmark.

Remember, the event timing and drybacks are explicitly to control the WC. introducing drought stress at the right times by decreasing the WC, which causes a spike in EC, or vis a vis. For instance, right now I'm running generative schedule, input is 1.2 EC and runoff (when i check) is about 1.6 on average. If it climbs higher than that, I flush with a fresh res at 1.2. When I revert to the vegetative cycle this weekend, I'll expect run off EC to be somewhere around input EC, +/- .2. Anything higher and I'll flush and evaluate my event timing again.
ok my current input is 1.4 ill check the output tonight, guess i better that dialed in then huh
For sake of simplicity I'm following the exact shit I did last run in the thread at the old place.
 
i think they are DRY af right now lol

which means my E.C is raising?
 
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i could do 3%

why would one want the high end or low end for say generative 4-8%

and sorry, i "was doing" veg steering during transition, and now im aiming for generative 4-8%? for the next couple of weeks
Generative is the lower volume stage, influencing stronger dry back. The plant response is to hurry up and flower vs vegetative that is the higher volume stage.

You run generative the first 21 days of flower to encourage bud set. Push those bitches to set flowers and reduce leaf production. Then, day 21 - to week 7ish, you go vegetative. Make sure they have plenty to drink and no stress. weeks 7-9 or 8-10, you go back to generative. at that same time you run your second round of PK boost. this forces the plants to finish up because they think, fuck, it's getting cold, rains are going away, the bell is tolling. Then, you revert back to vegetative again at much lower input EC and run to the finish line. Really, after week 10, it doesn't matter (in most modern cultivars). They're done drinking anyways so you could just drop to three or four events a day and keep the WC well above 80% with minimal runoff and no complications.
 
i think they are DRY af right now lol
two fixes for that. one is more events, or more volume per event.

depending on your runoff EC i would recommend a solid flush with 1/4 strength nutrient solution and then a flush with full strength. reset that media before things start going sideways. that first flush should be ran until your runoff EC matches input, then reset it with full strength solution.

despite popular opinion you can push stupid high EC in coco, too. in college i ran 2.2 - 2.5 EC regularly with no consequences. you just gotta be on top of keeping that media wet. a single severe dryback is the difference between a great harvest or dead plants.
 
Generative is the lower volume stage, influencing stronger dry back. The plant response is to hurry up and flower vs vegetative that is the higher volume stage.
i see, my thought at the time behind doing the veg cycle during transition is because i wanted to promote upward growth, first 10 days? do i understand that correctly or do i have it backwards though? im gonna have to do alot more runs trying this
You run generative the first 21 days of flower to encourage bud set. Push those bitches to set flowers and reduce leaf production. Then, day 21 - to week 7ish, you go vegetative.
ok so i switch back to vegetative then, buds are set.

Make sure they have plenty to drink and no stress. weeks 7-9 or 8-10, you go back to generative. at that same time you run your second round of PK boost. this forces the plants to finish up because they think, fuck, it's getting cold, rains are going away, the bell is tolling. Then, you revert back to vegetative again at much lower input EC and run to the finish line. Really, after week 10, it doesn't matter (in most modern cultivars). They're done drinking anyways so you could just drop to three or four events a day and keep the WC well above 80% with minimal runoff and no complications.
shit thanks man
 
two fixes for that. one is more events, or more volume per event.
ill try more events
, i think its mainly just because such tiny pots and off for 12 hours, need midnight /a/ waterings?
or are they just not "hydronated" enough?

depending on your runoff EC i would recommend a solid flush with 1/4 strength nutrient solution and then a flush with full strength. reset that media before things start going sideways. that first flush should be ran until your runoff EC matches input, then reset it with full strength solution.
light comes on at 10pm, and i was just about to check em, got busy chasing after the little one
despite popular opinion you can push stupid high EC in coco, too. in college i ran 2.2 - 2.5 EC regularly with no consequences. you just gotta be on top of keeping that media wet. a single severe dryback is the difference between a great harvest or dead plants.
lol. yea......
 
ok

currently, the pots ARE NOT light like i expected, so i think they are fine till about 12 tonight, ill check the LIGHTness of the pot lol, and go from there

i did water them at 9 am this morning too, like the 8th time, light off at 10am
 
Generative is the lower volume stage, influencing stronger dry back. The plant response is to hurry up and flower vs vegetative that is the higher volume stage.

You run generative the first 21 days of flower to encourage bud set. Push those bitches to set flowers and reduce leaf production. Then, day 21 - to week 7ish, you go vegetative. Make sure they have plenty to drink and no stress. weeks 7-9 or 8-10, you go back to generative. at that same time you run your second round of PK boost. this forces the plants to finish up because they think, fuck, it's getting cold, rains are going away, the bell is tolling. Then, you revert back to vegetative again at much lower input EC and run to the finish line. Really, after week 10, it doesn't matter (in most modern cultivars). They're done drinking anyways so you could just drop to three or four events a day and keep the WC well above 80% with minimal runoff and no complications.
ill follow exactly this on the next run i setup here soon

i already did it backwards lol
 
ok lots more to think about, i think im in week 3 now.
 
ill try more events
, i think its mainly just because such tiny pots and off for 12 hours, need midnight /a/ waterings?
or are they just not "hydronated" enough?


light comes on at 10pm, and i was just about to check em, got busy chasing after the little one

lol. yea......
in some cases, yes, you'll want a night time watering. especially in coco with high root density. those bitches will suck you drier than the sahara if you're not on top of em in small pots.

that's one of the bigger reasons i don't run coco anymore. running a ton of plants in 1gal pots that required 5x+ fertigations a day was a complete PITA. fun at the time, but too much work overall. don't know about you but i have better shit to do than play with water and plants lol
 
in some cases, yes, you'll want a night time watering. especially in coco with high root density. those bitches will suck you drier than the sahara if you're not on top of em in small pots.
gotcha.
that's one of the bigger reasons i don't run coco anymore.
im going RW next :cool:
running a ton of plants in 1gal pots that required 5x+ fertigations a day was a complete PITA. fun at the time, but too much work overall. don't know about you but i have better shit to do than play with water and plants lol
im done playing with all that shit for now that ive learned the basics i feel/comfortable enough to invest more and set up a "proper" set up, and let it do its thing, with weekly maintenance instead of fuckin every hour, lol.

i wanna get on bigger boy status like y'all and that shit run auto lol, 420 solo run is on Hold.

more dick-holding time and literally fucking anything else, focus on the shroomies,
 
Just before lights out. You can see the droop, they cold. Seriously need to bump temps up somehow.PXL_20231031_014420450.jpgPXL_20231031_014309639.MP.jpgPXL_20231031_014300685.jpg
 
Doesn't help the garage is close to 350sqft if i had to guess, so for a dinky little space heater and 70 pint dehuey, it's a lot of space to heat while battling leaks through 1/2"-1" gaps around the garage doors.
I hear ya on that! After a few garage buildouts just sealing it all up was the easiest way to stabilize and control the environment. 2" R-Tech everywhere!!! 😄

6 plant LST pre flower.jpg
 
is that a different board/panel on the right?
 
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