tobh's troll cave

[GrumpAzz]

I like to keep the magic smoke IN the wires

 

[tobh]

I like to keep the magic smoke IN the wires

come back after your shift today sir. be safe

 

[SSgrower]

.... first question is a point of contention. i count veg from first roots showing in original rooting media -- my choice is rapid rooters. at least, with clones. BUT a clone is technically a continuation of the mother plant, so carries that plant's lifetime. so, on that math you could have plants that have vegged 30+ years on certain cultivars.

second question, yes. i ran protekt for a bit but I've figured out how to leverage my base salts to buffer the water source enough to not get the wild pH swings I was having. potassium silicate is a great buffering agent but makes a res mixup long winded. i have power SI too, but i hate that shit with a passion. i'll gladly ship it to someone else because I paid $90 for the bottle and maybe used 100ml out of a liter. shit floats around like cum in bath water. fucking hate it.

i drove in snow on them (not the current set, on the old set pre-winter tires) one time. never again. even with AWD it was basically like driving a baby deer on ice skates. I don't think I broke 10mph on my way to get winter tires.

I 2nd the Power Si comment, Messy crap, I switched to Rooted Leaf Silica Skin as 1st. I ran ProTeK for 2 years with pH down. I still use a pipette of down with the Agritec. Silica Skin. Drove Camaro 67 model on Ice as a youngster, and i have had mustangs 2009, 2012, 2014, 2016 Coyote GT with suspension mods, lowered ect. SSgrower following

 

[Rootsruler]

I 2nd the Power Si comment, Messy crap, I switched to Rooted Leaf Silica Skin as 1st. I ran ProTeK for 2 years with pH down. I still use a pipette of down with the Agritec. Silica Skin. Drove Camaro 67 model on Ice as a youngster, and i have had mustangs 2009, 2012, 2014, 2016 Coyote GT with suspension mods, lowered ect. SSgrower following

Had an '03 GT with the 4.6 mod motor and 5 speed. Took it to a test and tune day to shake it down. Severe understeer. Terrible brakes. Suspension was way too soft. Bought a full race suspension from Maximum Motorsports and installed it into the car. Wilwood SL6's in front and D4's in back. Corbeau buckets and a few light supporting mods to pep up the engine a bit. Interior removal. Battery relocate. Took it back out and it was a completely different car.

 

[tobh]

I 2nd the Power Si comment, Messy crap, I switched to Rooted Leaf Silica Skin as 1st. I ran ProTeK for 2 years with pH down. I still use a pipette of down with the Agritec. Silica Skin. Drove Camaro 67 model on Ice as a youngster, and i have had mustangs 2009, 2012, 2014, 2016 Coyote GT with suspension mods, lowered ect. SSgrower following

Had an '03 GT with the 4.6 mod motor and 5 speed. Took it to a test and tune day to shake it down. Severe understeer. Terrible brakes. Suspension was way too soft. Bought a full race suspension from Maximum Motorsports and installed it into the car. Wilwood SL6's in front and D4's in back. Corbeau buckets and a few light supporting mods to pep up the engine a bit. Interior removal. Battery relocate. Took it back out and it was a completely different car.

you guys had the fun ones. though, those early 2000s mustangs were absolute garbage. steered like a Mac truck with almost no turning radius. drove an 88 Camaro RS in college with the paperweight 2.8L. Thing was slow as a pig but damn was it a comfortable car to cruise in. pretty sure i got pulled over in that car more than any other car I've owned aside from my 280zx. Shitty part about the Camaro was it was never for speeding lol it was always some bullshit about non-functioning equipment.

 

[steamroller]

Had to laugh about " some bullshit about non-functioning equipment" just because of Saturday at Martinsville Xfinity.

https://www.jayski.com/2023/10/29/pace-car-breaks-down-during-martinsville-race/

 

[tobh]

Had to laugh about " some bullshit about non-functioning equipment" just because of Saturday at Martinsville Xfinity.

https://www.jayski.com/2023/10/29/pace-car-breaks-down-during-martinsville-race/

finally got around to reading that. you'd think they could wire things up so, ya know, that couldn't happen. seems like a pretty significant safety concern if it was in fault the fuel pump harness and not a speed sensor harness.

 

[steamroller]

I thank GOD everyday my vette doesn't fuck up~!
Knock on wood or whatever but I usually have good luck with vehicles.
The bullshit with the fan is ridiculous but I got it done. Under 1 hour total.
Not bad for a slacker.
Even the part was listed as blower fan cut out replacement.
The guy at NAPA said he wouldn't have believed me if he didn't see that.
Said it was f'd up all the way.

Kind of laughed my ass since I was watching the race.
Funniest takeaway was the Ford pulling the Chevy off the track~!
I have always had Ford trucks and still do.
Hate driving it and may never again, but it is still registered, insured and inspected.
Cost too much to drive a V-10 anywhere these days...

 

[tobh]

I thank GOD everyday my vette doesn't fuck up~!
Knock on wood or whatever but I usually have good luck with vehicles.
The bullshit with the fan is ridiculous but I got it done. Under 1 hour total.
Not bad for a slacker.
Even the part was listed as blower fan cut out replacement.
The guy at NAPA said he wouldn't have believed me if he didn't see that.
Said it was f'd up all the way.

Kind of laughed my ass since I was watching the race.
Funniest takeaway was the Ford pulling the Chevy off the track~!
I have always had Ford trucks and still do.
Hate driving it and may never again, but it is still registered, insured and inspected.
Cost too much to drive a V-10 anywhere these days...

when i worked in the oil patch the company truck they had me in was a f-250 with the 7.3L powerjoke in it. damn ether baby, but it was a comfortable truck to do the kind of miles i was daily then. not a fan of fords normally but if i could get my hands on a decently maintained diesel that isn't priced outrageously high, it would gladly be accepted into my fleet. with gas prices the way they are you simply can't get the same towing capacity at a not bankrupt you operating rate anymore.

hell, that's why i take the lady's car or one of the motorcycles pretty much anywhere when i don't need to haul something or have the kiddos. the wrx gets terrible gas mileage even if my foot isn't in it.

 

[Rootsruler]

when i worked in the oil patch the company truck they had me in was a f-250 with the 7.3L powerjoke in it. damn ether baby, but it was a comfortable truck to do the kind of miles i was daily then. not a fan of fords normally but if i could get my hands on a decently maintained diesel that isn't priced outrageously high, it would gladly be accepted into my fleet. with gas prices the way they are you simply can't get the same towing capacity at a not bankrupt you operating rate anymore.

hell, that's why i take the lady's car or one of the motorcycles pretty much anywhere when i don't need to haul something or have the kiddos. the wrx gets terrible gas mileage even if my foot isn't in it.

If you own a WRX your foot is ALWAYS in it!!!

 

[tobh]

If you own a WRX your foot is ALWAYS in it!!!

i mean, you may or may not be wrong lol with it approaching 120k on the odometer i try to keep it out of boost as much as possible these days.

i have a pile of parts waiting to go in because i need to get supporting mods, and at this point figure fuckit. will just keep adding to the pile, bolt everything on once it's all in one place, then go get it tuned and be done until i have to replace the block. the tune shop recommended a handful of things i don't have yet to ensure it's as safe and reliable as possible. so likely won't have everything together and done until next summer. sucks, but it is what it is. buying a house then kids birthdays and holidays kinda fucked my plans to have it all done back in September.

 

[Rootsruler]

Don't lie. You and I both know there's nothing like hearing that blowoff valve go off when you've spooled up!!

You running a factory turbo setup or did you toss it and drop in a sweet twin turbo rig? Had a buddy running the boxer with an aftermarket twin turbo setup. IIRC, he also tossed the factory ECU and had the turbo shop replace it with a programmable one so that he didn't have to run the car off his laptop.

What are some of the supporting mods you're installing? Your WRX already has direct injection which is awesome in itself. The factory exhaust and intake manifold are actually pretty good. CAT delete/Straight Pipe?

 

[tobh]

Don't lie. You and I both know there's nothing like hearing that blowoff valve go off when you've spooled up!!

You running a factory turbo setup or did you toss it and drop in a sweet twin turbo rig? Had a buddy running the boxer with an aftermarket twin turbo setup. IIRC, he also tossed the factory ECU and had the turbo shop replace it with a programmable one so that he didn't have to run the car off his laptop.

What are some of the supporting mods you're installing? Your WRX already has direct injection which is awesome in itself. The factory exhaust and intake manifold are actually pretty good. CAT delete/Straight Pipe?

Right now everything is OEM less an IAG AOS, 3" catback exhaust, and cobb accessport running a stage 1+ tune. Gonna see what I can squeeze out of the stock turbo before upgrading that. i have quite a bit done to the suspension and brakes too, but nothing really power adding yet.

I have a high flow catted downpipe, three port electronic boost controller, and grimmspeed cold air intake, but the tuner said with the OEM turbo the setup would be subject to boost creep and they can't tune around it because it's a mechanical issue with the turbo. Even stock it was boost creeping hard, hence the stage 1+ tune. it keeps the boost at 18 lbs vs the 22+ I was seeing without it. it still creeps a bit when it's cold out, but at least the OEM boost controller doesn't cut power like it was before.

supporting mods are: a larger fuel pump, 1500cc injectors, larger top mount intercooler, bypass valve, 38mm external wastegate, aftermarket turbo inlet, and equal length headers if i can find a set that are reasonably priced and in good condition used. that'll basically take care of everything except the turbo, and intake manifold. that will also mean that depending on how aggressive the tune is, the block will go before the intake manifold becomes a choke point.

should still be sitting at about 350whp/350wtq though, which is fine because the transmission won't take anything more than that anyways.

 

[Observer]

If you own a WRX your foot is ALWAYS in it!!!

i went through 3-5 transmissions in about 1.5 years in a manual jetta......those things are slow as fuck, and i was so damn hard on it, lol.

 

[GoodShit97]

i went through 3-5 transmissions in about 1.5 years in a manual jetta......those things are slow as fuck, and i was so damn hard on it, lol.

6 years 92,000 miles on a stock honda 5 speed powered by a built 455 whp f23a5 w/ 10 pounds of boost.
My foot was almost always in it and that trans never missed a beat.
Fkn hondas man, damn near bulletproof as long as they have oil in them.

 

[tobh]

6 years 92,000 miles on a stock honda 5 speed powered by a built 455 whp f23a5 w/ 10 pounds of boost.
My foot was almost always in it and that trans never missed a bear.
Fkn hondas man, damn near bulletproof as long as they have oil in them.

especially the f platform, man. everyone is always oogling the b series swaps, but the real power is in the f blocks. had one in my accord and when i got into the technical details, my mind was blown. from factory they can take serious boost and like you said, so long you keep oil in em, they'll just accept the abuse.

 

[GoodShit97]

especially the f platform, man. everyone is always oogling the b series swaps, but the real power is in the f blocks. had one in my accord and when i got into the technical details, my mind was blown. from factory they can take serious boost and like you said, so long you keep oil in em, they'll just accept the abuse.

Yeah man, the f series is hondas long block, its capable of handling near 2000 hp...
Ive never been a b series guy, but then again ive always been a Prelude fan so thats where my love for f series engines comes from. A twin turbo f22 would be a blast to ride around in.

 

[Rootsruler]

Right now everything is OEM less an IAG AOS, 3" catback exhaust, and cobb accessport running a stage 1+ tune. Gonna see what I can squeeze out of the stock turbo before upgrading that. i have quite a bit done to the suspension and brakes too, but nothing really power adding yet.

I have a high flow catted downpipe, three port electronic boost controller, and grimmspeed cold air intake, but the tuner said with the OEM turbo the setup would be subject to boost creep and they can't tune around it because it's a mechanical issue with the turbo. Even stock it was boost creeping hard, hence the stage 1+ tune. it keeps the boost at 18 lbs vs the 22+ I was seeing without it. it still creeps a bit when it's cold out, but at least the OEM boost controller doesn't cut power like it was before.

supporting mods are: a larger fuel pump, 1500cc injectors, larger top mount intercooler, bypass valve, 38mm external wastegate, aftermarket turbo inlet, and equal length headers if i can find a set that are reasonably priced and in good condition used. that'll basically take care of everything except the turbo, and intake manifold. that will also mean that depending on how aggressive the tune is, the block will go before the intake manifold becomes a choke point.

should still be sitting at about 350whp/350wtq though, which is fine because the transmission won't take anything more than that anyways.

Nice!

What did you do for suspension? The Nova project wrecked me for suspensions. When I was researching how to build a suspension for maximum handling I didn't realize how much damn physics goes into it. I started out reading a book by a guy named Herb Adams and that spoiled me when it came to setting up a suspension. Whenever I see guys with super low cars that tell me how great their car handles I just laugh. Unless they have a bagged setup that'll lift the car to acclimate the control arms in the correct position for minimal wiggle they're just tucking lug nuts.

BTW Kudos on the quality of parts you chose. Cobb. Impressive.

 

[tobh]

Nice!

What did you do for suspension? The Nova project wrecked me for suspensions. When I was researching how to build a suspension for maximum handling I didn't realize how much damn physics goes into it. I started out reading a book by a guy named Herb Adams and that spoiled me when it came to setting up a suspension. Whenever I see guys with super low cars that tell me how great their car handles I just laugh. Unless they have a bagged setup that'll lift the car to acclimate the control arms in the correct position for minimal wiggle they're just tucking lug nuts.

BTW Kudos on the quality of parts you chose. Cobb. Impressive.

Let's see...

Suspension:

Silvers Suspension coilovers with 8k/8k Swift springs. I think I'm going to go up to 10k/10k though because the 8k are a bit softer than i prefer.
Mix of Whiteline and Perrin polyurethane bushings everywhere including subframe mounts
Perrin sway bar endlinks
Whiteline ball joints in the front to correct the geometry from lowering the car.

Running -3 degrees camber all around, car is lowered 2.5" from OEM ride height. There's still some body roll and understeer in real hard cornering but I attribute that to two things. One being the puny ass sway bars front and rear, especially the rear contributes to the understeer, and the 8k springs are more for a cushy ride than purely performance oriented. Bumping to 10k will help keep the rubber on the road better without creating that teeth breaking stiffness inherent to a lot of coilover setups.

Brakes:

OEM rotors
Hawk Performance street pads
Goodrich stainless steel brake lines
Motul DOT4 fluid

Oh I'm also running an ACT Street Competition Stage 2 clutch with 13lb flywheel and Verus Engineering clutch fork. Fuckin flywheel makes me look like I'm learning to drive stick all over again if I'm not careful. Swear I'm not blipping the throttle to look cool, I gotta keep that thing moving otherwise the clutch grabs too hard too quick and stalls the motor lol

 

[tobh]

BTW Kudos on the quality of parts you chose. Cobb. Impressive.

I try not to fuck with no name brands. Have built plenty of cars with generic shit and it never works out well. I'm building this car for longevity as I don't intend on ever having to sell it, and eventual goal is to be a pure race car (drag, autox), so Invidia for the TBE, P&L Engineering for the up-pipe, Tial for the wastegate, Cobb for the injectors, Deutschworks for the fuel pump, Grimmspeed or Perrin for other intake stuff, KillerB for the exhaust manifold if I can find one. All of it would be resellable at a decent price used as well vs some ebay or autozone special crap that wouldn't be worth its weight in scrap when I'm done with it.

 

[Rootsruler]

Have you ever run progressive springs? Friend of mine had a set on his old Escort GT that he set up for AXing. I got to run his car through the course few times. I liked them. Soft enough to drive the car home but stiff enough to keep that contact patch on the ground on hard cornering. Not as good as a dedicated race spring but certainly good enough for "spirited" driving. He'd have to click down the bump and droop on the dampers going home but I really liked them for a mainly street cruiser that likes to get squirrely on the track every once in a while kind of drive. IIRC, he bought them from Hyperco or Eibach.

Do you need to relocate the rack and pinion? I had some bushings made to relocate the rack a little on the mustang to improve the steering rod geometry. I got this idea reading that damn Herb Adams book. Made a distinct difference.

3 degrees negative is a lot of camber. Did you readjust toe? Most people using camber plates will add in the neg camber but forget to realign the toe. I was one of those idiots in some of my previous cars. Once I learned about suspension I adjusted toe in and, DAMN, so much smoother engagement in and out of the turns.

I like to run a heavier rear bar in relation to the front. It'll make it oversteer some but that's much easier to compensate using throttle control than having to deal with a fast approaching wall.

Love Hawk pads. How is the stock rotor? Please tell me it isn't drilled and slotted.

LOL! I understand completely when it comes to lightened flywheels. Had an aluminum flywheel installed when I was changing out my fried clutch and was upgrading it to a Centerforce Stage 2 clutch. Super quick but, yeah, you had to keep the RPM's up or you'd stall it out. It was always fun letting friends try and drive my car..............

 

[tobh]

Have you ever run progressive springs? Friend of mine had a set on his old Escort GT that he set up for AXing. I got to run his car through the course few times. I liked them. Soft enough to drive the car home but stiff enough to keep that contact patch on the ground on hard cornering. Not as good as a dedicated race spring but certainly good enough for "spirited" driving. He'd have to click down the bump and droop on the dampers going home but I really liked them for a mainly street cruiser that likes to get squirrely on the track every once in a while kind of drive. IIRC, he bought them from Hyperco or Eibach.

I ran progressives on my 280zx. They're good in some cases, but for my goals and use cases on the WRX they just aren't something I'd consider right now.

Do you need to relocate the rack and pinion? I had some bushings made to relocate the rack a little on the mustang to improve the steering rod geometry. I got this idea reading that damn Herb Adams book. Made a distinct difference.

No, it's a known issue due to how the chassis was designed and the fact they use the same size sway bars front and rear from factory. Given the engine sits fully in front of the rack, there's additional caster to compensate but comes with the consequence of understeer being a thing. The fix is putting 14mm sway bar up front and 15mm in back iirc.

3 degrees negative is a lot of camber. Did you readjust toe? Most people using camber plates will add in the neg camber but forget to realign the toe. I was one of those idiots in some of my previous cars. Once I learned about suspension I adjusted toe in and, DAMN, so much smoother engagement in and out of the turns.

Oh yeah, I have toe dialed in within 0.01 degrees. With how much I spent on tires I ain't trying to chew em up lol the camber actually helped with the understeer a bit but not enough if I'm really pushing it. The tires start squealing long before I get nervous. have had a few people ride with me on some spirited sessions and they've all been surprised how well the car feels. i think I'm the only one that's felt the understeer

I like to run a heavier rear bar in relation to the front. It'll make it oversteer some but that's much easier to compensate using throttle control than having to deal with a fast approaching wall.

That's exactly my goal. Oversteer is easy to handle if you know how to, and in AWD I'd rather have that. Understeer in this car feels almost like hitting the big painted arrows covered in oil. the asymetrical AWD kicks in and it can get hectic. Oversteer would just be as simple as lifting the right foot a bit like you said.

Love Hawk pads. How is the stock rotor? Please tell me it isn't drilled and slotted.

The hawk pads are fuckin excellent man. They produce a shit ton more dust than the pads that were on it before, but the stopping power is great and they don't take any warm up time to be effective. However i do worry that in the use case of autox they might cook. The rotors are solid. I won't run drilled and/or slotted on a street car. I like my rotors to stay in tact without cracks. I also ain't driving the car at 200mph+ when the slots and drilled holes would actually matter.

LOL! I understand completely when it comes to lightened flywheels. Had an aluminum flywheel installed when I was changing out my fried clutch and was upgrading it to a Centerforce Stage 2 clutch. Super quick but, yeah, you had to keep the RPM's up or you'd stall it out. It was always fun letting friends try and drive my car..............

haha i've given up telling the shops I've had work on my car about it. I rather hear the tech crying about my POS car than getting in it again and smelling nothing but clutch. it takes a special finesse to deal with such a clutch + flywheel combination without roasting the clutch.

 

[tobh]

FWIW when i went to UTI, I tried to focus primarily on suspension. Even though i only had one class in it, I was constantly in the shop working on suspension components because the shit just makes sense to me and it's fascinating. A carefully dialed suspension can make a slow car fast just like a poorly dialed suspension can make a fast car useless.

oh, I'm also only running the camber at -3 in the front specifically to fit my fat ass tires under the car. it's a stance boi move, but it's helped with the 18x8.5 +35 wheels and thick rubber. My winter wheels won't rub at all, but the summer wheels are rub city even with how it sits now at full lock.

 

[tobh]

almost time for the summer wheels to come off

 

[Rootsruler]

Nice little Canyon Carver ya got there!!!

I have the same lock-rub issue on most of my vehicles so the wells get clearanced if the frame doesn't get in the way. 18's on a handler? Shame on you, you know better! Unsprung weight!

Kidding! Nice wheels. I like the center dish. Gives it a meaner stance.

14mm sway bar? Kind of light no?

This is the book I've been yapping about.

 

[tobh]

Nice little Canyon Carver ya got there!!!

I have the same lock-rub issue on most of my vehicles so the wells get clearanced if the frame doesn't get in the way. 18's on a handler? Shame on you, you know better! Unsprung weight!

Kidding! Nice wheels. I like the center dish. Gives it a meaner stance.

14mm sway bar? Kind of light no?

with the wheels, the steering is already stiff enough. putting anything bigger than 14mm will make it like a driving with a non functioning power steering car, which this was for about three years. I like a heavy steering wheel, don't get me wrong, but when you're fighting to get the mf'er to turn at 60mph+, it's a bitch.

the wheel size was on purpose -- can't drop to 16" because the rim barrels won't clear the suspension or brakes, 17" has shit tire selection for the sizes that fit this chassis, so 18" was the step up. 8.5" is wide but not wide enough lol i still break the firehawk indy 500s loose from a dig if i get into it hard enough. nothing quite like breaking all four loose, but it's sketchy. with better rubber it wouldn't happen.

 

[tobh]

@Observer because i assume you're doing research ATM, I've been running generative cycle up to this point since flip. My article isn't a "do this get great yields" thing. It's a guide based off one grow and probably a six months to a year of heavy research. I'll be going to vegetative cycle on Saturday when I strip tf out of the ladies again.

I haven't measured VPD or PPFD at all this run given I can't get VPD under control, so.... my environment's not dialed. I haven't even exceeded an EC of 1.2 input either. Last run I'm pretty sure I was up near 1.8 by this stage, if not 2.0. I was on the limits of what I could do without CO2.

This run is looking promising, though, and I'm kinda questioning the higher temps without CO2 ideal. We'll see. I'll snag pics after the girls wake up but what I saw earlier right before lights out was... surprising given my unhopeful lookout on this run.

 

[Observer]

@Observer because i assume you're doing research ATM,

Yea, I can't get the stuff off my mind, I just love to learn shit and being able to "practice" it and try different things and seeing different responses.
Re-reading things

I've been running generative cycle up to this point since flip. My article isn't a "do this get great yields" thing. It's a guide based off one grow and probably a six months to a year of heavy research. I'll be going to vegetative cycle on Saturday when I strip tf out of the ladies again.

Gotcha, I just started diving into it a few weeks ago, reading here and there what I can find, and try to mimic the methods/patterns.

I haven't measured VPD or PPFD at all this run given I can't get VPD under control, so.... my environment's not dialed. I haven't even exceeded an EC of 1.2 input either. Last run I'm pretty sure I was up near 1.8 by this stage, if not 2.0. I was on the limits of what I could do without CO2.

I have no idea what any of mine is, besides ranges
maybe, phone app to get an idea of the PPFD, been lagging on checking my e.c.

And im just keeping the 5x5 at 84f/74 rh, and the LST at 77-80f+ or whatever 84f/74rh is under LEDs

Besides those cheap TDS meters that would shit out on me, this is the first time having a decent e.c pen to even check it

This run is looking promising, though, and I'm kinda questioning the higher temps without CO2 ideal. We'll see. I'll snag pics after the girls wake up but what I saw earlier right before lights out was... surprising given my unhopeful lookout on this run.

Good point, I wonder if I should bring my temps down just a few F, but I guess if it ain't broke, don't fix it, only one seems to be a little picky - from something

I don't think my canopy fills in near as much as it should or could, like yours or dirtbags though.

 

[tobh]

It's really starting to look like we're flowering now! Stretch nearly done. Need to get in there and do the second defoliation.

Figured out how to get the temps up by positioning the space heater just right.

 

[Rootsruler]

Gettin' a lil' thick in there.