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⚡Electrical Help Thread⚡

MVP of this project man... It don't like it, but it's making due pushing a 4' 1" flex auger bit. Kicking my ass in the process but this is the third one of these I've owned in my life and they just don't give up.
View attachment 17540
Ridgid makes a damn decent line up of cordless tools man.
If i didnt get an entire Milwaukee set for Christmas last year i would still have all my Ridgid stuff. I loved it, but gave it to someone who needed it more than i did.

Dumb ass me left all my batteries in my shed iver the winter and now they are toast so i gotta buy 4 new batteries 😑🤦🏻
 
Ridgid makes a damn decent line up of cordless tools man.
If i didnt get an entire Milwaukee set for Christmas last year i would still have all my Ridgid stuff. I loved it, but gave it to someone who needed it more than i did.

Dumb ass me left all my batteries in my shed iver the winter and now they are toast so i gotta buy 4 new batteries 😑🤦🏻
i'll be picking up some milwaukee gear soon, too. i like their finish and framing nailers better than rigid's offerings.

goddamn obstructions getting in the way of my fish rod now. One penetration, I can get the rod 13.5' through the space which should align with my other penetration but i can't find the damn rod end. so, trying from the opposite side I make it 8' before hitting an obstruction. I know what it is -- it's the framing that encases the aluminum HVAC plenum.

y'all that do this shit for a living have the patience of saints, man. if I ever move and buy another house that's not wired for ethernet, I'll be paying someone else to handle this crap lol

Edit: GOT IT! fuckin bastard.PXL_20230815_004330843.jpg
 
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i'll be picking up some milwaukee gear soon, too. i like their finish and framing nailers better than rigid's offerings.

goddamn obstructions getting in the way of my fish rod now. One penetration, I can get the rod 13.5' through the space which should align with my other penetration but i can't find the damn rod end. so, trying from the opposite side I make it 8' before hitting an obstruction. I know what it is -- it's the framing that encases the aluminum HVAC plenum.

y'all that do this shit for a living have the patience of saints, man. if I ever move and buy another house that's not wired for ethernet, I'll be paying someone else to handle this crap lol

Edit: GOT IT! fuckin bastard.View attachment 17544
That texture is hard to match when repairing a small patch.
 
That texture is hard to match when repairing a small patch.
I'll show some after pics. consider myself to be a bit of a magician when it comes to matching texture. between being a handyman for almost a decade between my teens and early 20s and being a conscientious renter, I've yet to find a texture I can't get at least close enough to matching to a point my patch isn't noticeable.
 
Quick skim coat to clean up the gaps. I'm scabbing in these patches because with the texturing doing butterfly patches would be way too tedious. Once the mud dries overnight, I'll start working on matching up the texture.
PXL_20230815_020214192.jpg

This is the pull point to get these runs into my office. I'll continue fishing them to the exterior wall, then drop em to behind the baseboard and run em to their final destination.

The orange you see in the hallway will become the hallway's color. I wanted to get all these holes cut and patched before we go spend another ridiculous amount of money on paint. With these two cables, I will be able to expand the network in my office significantly via running another switch in here so two lines are about as future proof as I can make it right now.
PXL_20230815_020205263.jpg
 
i'll be picking up some milwaukee gear soon, too. i like their finish and framing nailers better than rigid's offerings.

goddamn obstructions getting in the way of my fish rod now. One penetration, I can get the rod 13.5' through the space which should align with my other penetration but i can't find the damn rod end. so, trying from the opposite side I make it 8' before hitting an obstruction. I know what it is -- it's the framing that encases the aluminum HVAC plenum.

y'all that do this shit for a living have the patience of saints, man. if I ever move and buy another house that's not wired for ethernet, I'll be paying someone else to handle this crap lol

Edit: GOT IT! fuckin bastard.View attachment 17544
It’s not that bad. And do you really want to trust this to someone else?

You can even put access plates in one or two spots for future use changes.

You’re also learning a lot more about your new home in a short time this way.

You don’t seem the type to hand off important personal chores to others. Same goes for most here.

As the forums say; You got this. 👍🤣
 
It’s not that bad. And do you really want to trust this to someone else?

You can even put access plates in one or two spots for future use changes.

You’re also learning a lot more about your new home in a short time this way.

You don’t seem the type to hand off important personal chores to others. Same goes for most here.

As the forums say; You got this. 👍🤣
Yeah, I'm leaving an access door in the closet where the wire from the utility room moves into the staircase, then I'll be leaving a few strings from the attic down to that access panel for future pulls.

Getting that initial run across the basement was just more of PITA than anticipated lol would gladly have paid someone like $50 to fish a string that I could've then used to pull the wire myself.

You're right though, I've solved some mysteries about the place and am not one to just hand off this kind of work unless it's really risky or tedious. Somehow I managed to avoid doing any wire pulling through all my trade years, so making up for lost time now :ROFLMAO:
 
Nice man! It's really not bad work once you commit to a plan of attack. On tougher pulls, I'll terminate and test or at least check for conductivity on pairs before I button any holes up that I needed to get it there. If it's easy pulling and they sailed through w no snags I dont sweat it.
 
Nice man! It's really not bad work once you commit to a plan of attack. On tougher pulls, I'll terminate and test or at least check for conductivity on pairs before I button any holes up that I needed to get it there. If it's easy pulling and they sailed through w no snags I dont sweat it.
yeah, it's just a bit more difficult than I anticipated. Between hitting a spot with way more wood than I expected for my vertical path and then spending 30 minutes getting the glow rod to peak through the other side, definitely gained even more respect for the people out there doing residential work on the daily.

Can see why @GrumpAzz is eager to transition to a less labor intensive job, for sure.
 
Oh, so I got confirmation about some sketchy happenings at this house by the previous owners. I'm wondering if it would be worth getting a licensed electrician out to do an inspection on the wiring.

TL;DR: they had an additional sub panel running a massive grow op. I have some butchered wires in one wall. Worth getting a pro out or no?
 
Are the butchered wires just a part of this subpanel job, or do you suspect house-wide fuckery? General advice would be call a pro if it makes you uncomfortable.
well, where they had the subpanel doesn't look suspect -- which is weird. but there's a hole that at least two of the romex lines that are cut. Guess I could put a volt meter on em and see if they're live 🤷‍♂️
 
is it a code requirement to have a box for keystone modules? i'm talking about one of those blue/tan/pick-a-color boxes that typical receptacles are in.
 
is it a code requirement to have a box for keystone modules? i'm talking about one of those blue/tan/pick-a-color boxes that typical receptacles are in.
No. Box is optional.

VCE Low Voltage Mounting Bracket (1 Gang, 5 Pack) for Single Gang Wall Plate, Telephone Wires, Network Cables, HDMI, Coaxial, Speaker Cables, Black
https://a.co/d/9oEcnvO
 
i'll be picking up some milwaukee gear soon, too. i like their finish and framing nailers better than rigid's offerings.
Grab one of the Surge impact drivers. Man are they smooth. Feather the trigger and you'll never crossthread a screw again. Mine handles up to 3/8x3" lag screws no problem.
y'all that do this shit for a living have the patience of saints, man.
There's a reason why construction workers are prone to alcoholism, depression and suicide. It's a hard life to live, beating down your body and mind, leaving little energy for anything after work. Many of us forget that the company will go on without us and end up feeling stuck and abused. Like some weird Stockholm syndrom type relationship. Most fail to realize how vital they are and usually go under appreciated.
 
There's a reason why construction workers are prone to alcoholism, depression and suicide. It's a hard life to live, beating down your body and mind, leaving little energy for anything after work. Many of us forget that the company will go on without us and end up feeling stuck and abused. Like some weird Stockholm syndrom type relationship. Most fail to realize how vital they are and usually go under appreciated.
Even after getting out of construction I've struggled with this. A decade deep into my current career (software engineering and now information security) and still as drunk as ever, yet I come back to doing this kind of work for myself now. Getting all my pull holes sealed up for my basement runs is satisfying and I'm proud of the effort. If I was doing this professionally, guaranteed there would be hate for how slow it's gone and the mistakes made.

Truth is, the blue collar boys enable the rich boys to get richer. Can't make more money if you don't have a building to park your money in. Douchebags.
 
Oh, so I got confirmation about some sketchy happenings at this house by the previous owners. I'm wondering if it would be worth getting a licensed electrician out to do an inspection on the wiring.

TL;DR: they had an additional sub panel running a massive grow op. I have some butchered wires in one wall. Worth getting a pro out or no?
Depends. How bad and live or dead?

My prior home owner thought he was a master or all trades. He was not. I was able to fix and remove most things. To expensive to replace everything I didn’t like. I redid the panel, not the main though. Added extra breakers and shared the load better.

Chasing a short or bad ground I might need help if in a wall.

Edit: If you have a local union hall not to far away you might be able to get a journeyman to help you for a good price.
 
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Alright, changing subject here.

I have a single, dated light in my office. I have plans to do some fairly aggressive sound proofing and will be building baffle boxes to go on the ceiling and want to install recessed bar lighting in the boxes. Obviously in the age of LEDs, I'll be using that tech for the light bars so now to the question.

Is it acceptable/reasonable to convert the current light mount into a junction box? I'll need to dig up the plans but IIRC I'll be running roughly 12 light bars in series parallel. I haven't scoped out the load yet, but it shouldn't be any more than a 100w incandescent bulb. The light in question currently lives on a 15amp circuit that I assume is shared by the bathroom and another bedroom.

Edit: correction, it'll be nine light bars. planning on flexible tube style lights so i can wrap the perimeters of the boxes slightly recessed to hide the bars.

PXL_20230817_060649072.jpg
 
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I was an electrical estimator in the 80’s so I’m no where near up to code but I don’t see why not?

Is it a standard square or octagon box? (Doesn’t matter if it’s double gang or not) They still make covers and this is residential so I think you’re good.

I did it here 20+ years ago. Just use the round plate to cover octagon box and square for square box.

Anyone else up to date on code, things changed?
 
You can do the AC terminations in the light housing, no problem. We re-purpose old housings and panel cans all the time. Realistically though, there should be a junction box that the current light is mounted to. Then, all your DC terminations can be made wherever.

It's early for me seeing as how I was up plucking ballsacks off my plant until around 4 hours ago. I'm assuming your LEDs will drivers? Or are they plug-n-play LEDs? They make extension rings for nearly all the boxes you'd find in your house, if the connections don't all fit.

There aren't really any codes you'll need to follow for anything under 50 volts. The AC connections are all you really need to enclose and for the rest, just make it look good.
 
You can do the AC terminations in the light housing, no problem. We re-purpose old housings and panel cans all the time. Realistically though, there should be a junction box that the current light is mounted to. Then, all your DC terminations can be made wherever.

It's early for me seeing as how I was up plucking ballsacks off my plant until around 4 hours ago. I'm assuming your LEDs will drivers? Or are they plug-n-play LEDs? They make extension rings for nearly all the boxes you'd find in your house, if the connections don't all fit.

There aren't really any codes you'll need to follow for anything under 50 volts. The AC connections are all you really need to enclose and for the rest, just make it look good.
i haven't gotten that far into identifying the specific lights yet, but this is all really solid information to know. thank you sir!
 
is it kosher to splice wire into an existing line to extend the run?

for context, I want to move a light switch from a really dumb spot to a spot that makes sense closer to a door on another wall. I can safely assume that the line and load wires aren't going to reach the new location.
 
is it kosher to splice wire into an existing line to extend the run?

for context, I want to move a light switch from a really dumb spot to a spot that makes sense closer to a door on another wall. I can safely assume that the line and load wires aren't going to reach the new location.
You're good. Just don't bury your connections in the wall. By code they need to be accessible, so run your new wires, splice and put a blank plate over the box. Might be unsightly but the only other option is to pull the wires back into the attic (or crawlspace) and splice them into an approved box there, then patch the hole in the rock.
 
You're good. Just don't bury your connections in the wall. By code they need to be accessible, so run your new wires, splice and put a blank plate over the box. Might be unsightly but the only other option is to pull the wires back into the attic (or crawlspace) and splice them into an approved box there, then patch the hole in the rock.
Might do the latter given what I'm dealing with here. Plan on putting in a GFCI here anyways since this outlet sits right next to a sink.
PXL_20230824_214025095.jpg
 
I don't usually like to give out free advice but this place is full of free advice and electrical knowledge is really my only way to contribute, so thanks for the opportunity.
certainly appreciate it! at some point i'll be asking for more in-depth confirmation that the circuits i'll be building are up to snuff. building a sealed room is a bit more electrically complex than fishing wires and moving switches.
 
Yeah, you'll be in the attic running new wires anyway so it makes sense to go that route. Looks like it's on a countertop, though. You sure you won't need that outlet there?
I will, but I'm not sure it's going to keep living there. There's a door to the left on the same wall that I'm going to be framing in and sealing because it's a dumb door. The switch needs to move to the next wall over, next to the other door. Then, I will be remodeling the bathroom and the vanity might move so if that happens then the outlet will need to move with it.

I also don't like the outlet not being a GFCI, nor being the two gang with a switch plus duplex outlets. From a safety and usability perspective I'd rather it be a single gang GFCI and the switch near the door.
 
I will, but I'm not sure it's going to keep living there. There's a door to the left on the same wall that I'm going to be framing in and sealing because it's a dumb door. The switch needs to move to the next wall over, next to the other door. Then, I will be remodeling the bathroom and the vanity might move so if that happens then the outlet will need to move with it.

I also don't like the outlet not being a GFCI, nor being the two gang with a switch plus duplex outlets. From a safety and usability perspective I'd rather it be a single gang GFCI and the switch near the door.
Can of worms, right there. Maybe 🤣
 
Can of worms, right there. Maybe 🤣
that's why i'm not calling an electrician to do it haha home advisor says it costs $100-$150 to move a switch but with something like this i fully anticipate it being much higher.
 
that's why i'm not calling an electrician to do it haha home advisor says it costs $100-$150 to move a switch but with something like this i fully anticipate it being much higher.
Can you get a code book.

Everything electrical is written down somewhere
 
Can you get a code book.

Everything electrical is written down somewhere
I probably could. I'll contact the county and see if they're publicly available. Actually didn't think about that... good idea!
My only thoughts are whether or not that switch is fed from that outlet.
So, I've had the plate off and there are three runs coming into the box. One run to the switch, and one to each side of the outlet. I haven't pulled the box out to check where the wires are running yet but it's wired kinda funky from what I expected
Not an easy book to interpret 🤯
Luckily i know my way around schematics, and at least DC theories. A bit rusty in the theory dept as I haven't used it extensively in quite a while but I'm sure I could figure out whatever the code specifies. If not I have y'all and my buddy who is a master electrician.
 
I probably could. I'll contact the county and see if they're publicly available. Actually didn't think about that... good idea!
They're pretty expensive.
So, I've had the plate off and there are three runs coming into the box. One run to the switch, and one to each side of the outlet. I haven't pulled the box out to check where the wires are running yet but it's wired kinda funky from what I expected
If you could open it up and pull the devices out, leaving the wires attached, I could give you a pretty good idea as to what's going on.
Luckily i know my way around schematics, and at least DC theories. A bit rusty in the theory dept as I haven't used it extensively in quite a while but I'm sure I could figure out whatever the code specifies. If not I have y'all and my buddy who is a master electrician.
There are no schematics or line diagrams. It's just worded to confuse the shit out of you so that passing the tests is more a show of comprehension than anything.
 
Let's talk GFCIs.

My original understanding was without a ground that runs back to the panel, they aren't any safer than a standard duplex plug. However, on an electrician's forum I found a massive discussion saying that they will still perform without ground wires attached.

The outlets I've replaced in my house so far all have had ground wires, so that's not a concern. I'm more curious what the standards are in the industry regarding GFCIs now. Specifically:

1. Do you only need on, ideally at the beginning of a circuit where there are multiple loads?
2. Would having every outlet be a GFCI be excessive?
3. How much benefit is to be gained by having GFCI vs tamper resistant duplex outlets?
4. Are grounds really necessary for GFCIs to work as intended (eg, shock a mofo but don't kill em).
 
I just got home from 17 hours on the road. I'll try to get to this here in a bit but if not, first thing in the morning. @tobh
Dude get some rest! Figured I'd pivot to a question more relevant to the builders of bud rooms. Anyone that's not a sparky knows water + electricity is no bueno, and GFCIs are designed specifically for that scenario.
 
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