Cannabis high fertigation coco by Aqua Man

Aqua Man

Weed Guru
Staff member
Joined
May 11, 2023
Messages
1,696
Reaction score
7,748
So first off COCO is NOT soil. For best results we want to keep it saturated between 90-100% that does not mean you can't go below this but you may see slower growth or nutrient issues over time if your consistently letting COCO get to dry.

Coco has an amazing gas exchange and air holding capacity when compared to soil. For this reason it is next to impossible to over water. Over watering is NOT to much water... its lack of o2. You will see this in soil with less drainage but because of coco's high drainage, air holding capacity and gas exchange its highly unlikely to see this in coco.

I do suggest if growing in more than 1 gal pots to add perlite if you are seeking faster grow rates. However if you want to water less often then you can eliminate the perlite as this will lower the drainage. As a rule of thumb:

1gal no perlite
2gal 20% perlite
3gal 30% perlite
4gal 40% perlite
5+gal 50% perlite

You can do more or less but it will affect the frequency of watering required. More perlite the more frequent you will have to feed. Personally I feel the better the drainage the faster the growth but its a balancing act and the above ratios i would say are a great place to start.

Coco has a low CEC (cation exchange capacity) so it does not hold onto nutrients as well as something like soil so we feed with every watering to keep a balanced nutrient ratio, ph and ppm in the coco. To do so we also need to flush out some of the last feed with each feeding to prevent a nutrient buildup which can affect all of these. THINK OF COCO AS SOILESS... much closer to hydro and very similar to rockwool.

I won't get into ppm in detail as thing will change quite a bit from grow to grow depending on many factors. But generally speaking start at around 300-400ppm and work up to around 800ppm. Now some may need to alter that as it will depend on your specific grow conditions.

HOW OFTEN DO WE FEED!!!

Ah the always debated subject.. 2 times a day, 1 time every 2 days, 10 times a day????

Forget that nonsense... like I say each grow is different so we need to use a better method. Let the plants tell you!!!!

Ok here is how we calculate it simply to your specific grow conditions, stage of growth, pot size and every other variable. You will never need to wonder am I feeding to much or to little again.

The formula:

1.Feed 5% of the pot size as your nutrient solution.
2. Of that we want 10-20% to come out as run off.
3. If you get more you can lower the frequency.
4. If we get less we need to increase the frequency and for that feed we need to add more to get our run off.

So I will do the calculations up to 5gal below to save you all some time. Feed the amount listed and check to make sure you get runoff of the amount listed from there adjust to dial in the feedings as they will change as the plants grow.

REMEMBER THIS IS A GUIDLINE AND NOT A HARD RULE. Our goal is to get as close as reasonably possible. It's not gonna kill your plants if its not exact.


I'm gonna round up.

1gal. Feed 250ml get 25-50ml of runoff

2gal. Feed 500ml get 50-100ml of runoff.

3gal. Feed 750ml get 75-150ml of runoff.

5 gal Feed 1litre get 100-200ml of runoff.

By doing this your plant will tell you how often you should be watering for best results.

Plant transpiration happens during photosynthesis so we only need to water during the lights on period. But in smaller containers you may find that you need to fertigate once in the middle of lights out if fertigation events are higher. Its unlikely but if your coco is dry before the first feed its not a bad idea to toss one in. Generally feed a couple hrs before lights out for the last time but you want to split the events evenly throughout lights on.

It may sound like you will be watering way to much but when you calculate how much you are feeding and then the frequency its not much more than most already do, just supplied in a manner that provides much greater stability. You will be using much smaller amounts of nutrient solution and by feeding much more frequently it doesn't take much to get your runoff while keeping the rootzone ph, ppm and moisture content ideal
 
This is all very true and could not be said better. I switched from soil to coco my second grow a few years ago and can’t imagine ever going back! It’s baby shit easy as my mentor would say after you learn the basics which are well outlined above.
I will add one thing from my experience with coco.
20 one gallon pots Per light fed properly will always yield better than 16 two gallon pots or 12 three gallon pots and so on. This doesn’t work well for people with plant count limitations or worries but more plants in one gallon pots will always trump less plants in bigger pots as well as you only need a 10-14 day veg period!

Props to Aqua for sharing the knowledge!

Peace out,

LJ
 
This is all very true and could not be said better. I switched from soil to coco my second grow a few years ago and can’t imagine ever going back! It’s baby shit easy as my mentor would say after you learn the basics which are well outlined above.
I will add one thing from my experience with coco.
20 one gallon pots Per light fed properly will always yield better than 16 two gallon pots or 12 three gallon pots and so on. This doesn’t work well for people with plant count limitations or worries but more plants in one gallon pots will always trump less plants in bigger pots as well as you only need a 10-14 day veg period!

Props to Aqua for sharing the knowledge!

Peace out,

LJ
Good info on the plant counts 100% agree
 
IMO only bagged Canna coco should be attempted with a little perlite buffer for the first few grows. Baby shit easy as well as I have never had pests from Canna coco. However I have got a lot lazier in my old age and now use Floraflex compressed bricks already in 1 gallon bags that already have a void for root riot cubes once expanded. Again just my opinion but transplanting from rooted clone to solo cups to final pot got old and is a big mess to clean up 2 times.
 
IMO only bagged Canna coco should be attempted with a little perlite buffer for the first few grows. Baby shit easy as well as I have never had pests from Canna coco. However I have got a lot lazier in my old age and now use Floraflex compressed bricks already in 1 gallon bags that already have a void for root riot cubes once expanded. Again just my opinion but transplanting from rooted clone to solo cups to final pot got old and is a big mess to clean up 2 times.
Also you don’t have to worry about washing/or loading a minimal nutrient load with Canna bagged coco. It’s set it and forget it baby shit easy!
 
I am only on Week 4 using Floraflex 1 gallon compressed bricks that already come in a bag.
I honestly don’t know any downsides yet and hopefully there aren’t any.
The upsides are IMO:
1. They come with a premade root riot/peat clone plug built in and already in the plastic bag you run to full term.
2. I am seriously over 2 transplants after the clones are rooted. First solo cup then final 1-2 gallon pot. I am lazy and know matter what coco gets everywhere in my shop each time. I run just under 100 plants and if this experiment works screw that!
3. Properly cleaning the pots when done sucks also!
4. Canna bagged coco plus 10-20% perlite costs about 50% more not including $2-3 per pot. You also need 2 sets of pots to be ready to go after chop! My hydro shop sells me 200 Floraflex ready to go bags for $198 plus tax. Or $2 each.
5. I know I already said this but cleaning the pots and sanitizing them and cleaning up the coco mess from 2 transplants sucks. I have been growing in coco since I switched to A hydro grower from dirt farmer. Nothing against you soil growers cause I’m pretty sure your product does end up a little better in the end. However if my new premade floraflex bags don’t do well I definitely plan to try rockwool. Call me lazy if you want but if you are running more than a tent full of plants bagged coco is a lot of work that I really don’t want to do anymore if I can figure out another way. I truly would rather stay in coco but these damn bags better work! I will never rep or suggest any companies product unless it works and the jury is definitely still out on that.

Peace out,

LJ

image.jpgimage.jpg
 
I am only on Week 4 using Floraflex 1 gallon compressed bricks that already come in a bag.
I honestly don’t know any downsides yet and hopefully there aren’t any.
The upsides are IMO:
1. They come with a premade root riot/peat clone plug built in and already in the plastic bag you run to full term.
2. I am seriously over 2 transplants after the clones are rooted. First solo cup then final 1-2 gallon pot. I am lazy and know matter what coco gets everywhere in my shop each time. I run just under 100 plants and if this experiment works screw that!
3. Properly cleaning the pots when done sucks also!
4. Canna bagged coco plus 10-20% perlite costs about 50% more not including $2-3 per pot. You also need 2 sets of pots to be ready to go after chop! My hydro shop sells me 200 Floraflex ready to go bags for $198 plus tax. Or $2 each.
5. I know I already said this but cleaning the pots and sanitizing them and cleaning up the coco mess from 2 transplants sucks. I have been growing in coco since I switched to A hydro grower from dirt farmer. Nothing against you soil growers cause I’m pretty sure your product does end up a little better in the end. However if my new premade floraflex bags don’t do well I definitely plan to try rockwool. Call me lazy if you want but if you are running more than a tent full of plants bagged coco is a lot of work that I really don’t want to do anymore if I can figure out another way. I truly would rather stay in coco but these damn bags better work! I will never rep or suggest any companies product unless it works and the jury is definitely still out on that.

Peace out,

LJ

View attachment 5514View attachment 5515
Yeah a grow that size… going Rw and uni slabs is probably much easier
 
Yeah a grow that size… going Rw and uni slabs is probably much easier
Thanks Aqua! I’m seriously leaning that way but have not looked into what I will need to change and or learn. From the little I think I know RW is definitely more technical than coco with less room for mistakes. However I’m all but sure it never comes with with fungus knat larvae. Fucking coco
 
Thanks Aqua! I’m seriously leaning that way but have not looked into what I will need to change and or learn. From the little I think I know RW is definitely more technical than coco with less room for mistakes. However I’m all but sure it never comes with with fungus knat larvae. Fucking coco
rW is slightly more finicky than coco for watering but each have their benefits … probably the closest in similarity than other medias. Gnats you need ti make sure every drain is sealed when not in use and if using coco i suggest canna coco as it’s certified pest free
 
  • Deleted by Observer
Show…

20 one gallon pots Per light fed properly will always yield better than 16 two gallon pots or 12 three gallon pots and so on. This doesn’t work well for people with plant count limitations or worries but more plants in one gallon pots will always trump less plants in bigger pots as well as you only need a 10-14 day veg period!

LJ
That same logic applies to more solo cups then right?

Lmao
 
How would you water these deeper pots seems they are in a taller pot the water table would b higher.
Fort would be good to post this. Small amount everyday
Or every other
 

Attachments

  • IMG-20230721-WA0050.jpg
    IMG-20230721-WA0050.jpg
    283.7 KB · Views: 2
  • Screenshot_20230721-145934_WhatsApp.jpg
    Screenshot_20230721-145934_WhatsApp.jpg
    85 KB · Views: 2
How would you water these deeper pots seems they are in a taller pot the water table would b higher.
Fort would be good to post this. Small amount everyday
Or every other
Water table always remains the same… the water holding capacity will be lower in thise pots and will need watered more frequently
 
So first off COCO is NOT soil. For best results we want to keep it saturated between 90-100% that does not mean you can't go below this but you may see slower growth or nutrient issues over time if your consistently letting COCO get to dry.

Coco has an amazing gas exchange and air holding capacity when compared to soil. For this reason it is next to impossible to over water. Over watering is NOT to much water... its lack of o2. You will see this in soil with less drainage but because of coco's high drainage, air holding capacity and gas exchange its highly unlikely to see this in coco.

I do suggest if growing in more than 1 gal pots to add perlite if you are seeking faster grow rates. However if you want to water less often then you can eliminate the perlite as this will lower the drainage. As a rule of thumb:

1gal no perlite
2gal 20% perlite
3gal 30% perlite
4gal 40% perlite
5+gal 50% perlite

You can do more or less but it will affect the frequency of watering required. More perlite the more frequent you will have to feed. Personally I feel the better the drainage the faster the growth but its a balancing act and the above ratios i would say are a great place to start.

Coco has a low CEC (cation exchange capacity) so it does not hold onto nutrients as well as something like soil so we feed with every watering to keep a balanced nutrient ratio, ph and ppm in the coco. To do so we also need to flush out some of the last feed with each feeding to prevent a nutrient buildup which can affect all of these. THINK OF COCO AS SOILESS... much closer to hydro and very similar to rockwool.

I won't get into ppm in detail as thing will change quite a bit from grow to grow depending on many factors. But generally speaking start at around 300-400ppm and work up to around 800ppm. Now some may need to alter that as it will depend on your specific grow conditions.

HOW OFTEN DO WE FEED!!!

Ah the always debated subject.. 2 times a day, 1 time every 2 days, 10 times a day????

Forget that nonsense... like I say each grow is different so we need to use a better method. Let the plants tell you!!!!

Ok here is how we calculate it simply to your specific grow conditions, stage of growth, pot size and every other variable. You will never need to wonder am I feeding to much or to little again.

The formula:

1.Feed 5% of the pot size as your nutrient solution.
2. Of that we want 10-20% to come out as run off.
3. If you get more you can lower the frequency.
4. If we get less we need to increase the frequency and for that feed we need to add more to get our run off.

So I will do the calculations up to 5gal below to save you all some time. Feed the amount listed and check to make sure you get runoff of the amount listed from there adjust to dial in the feedings as they will change as the plants grow.

REMEMBER THIS IS A GUIDLINE AND NOT A HARD RULE. Our goal is to get as close as reasonably possible. It's not gonna kill your plants if its not exact.


I'm gonna round up.

1gal. Feed 250ml get 25-50ml of runoff

2gal. Feed 500ml get 50-100ml of runoff.

3gal. Feed 750ml get 75-150ml of runoff.

5 gal Feed 1litre get 100-200ml of runoff.

By doing this your plant will tell you how often you should be watering for best results.

Plant transpiration happens during photosynthesis so we only need to water during the lights on period. But in smaller containers you may find that you need to fertigate once in the middle of lights out if fertigation events are higher. Its unlikely but if your coco is dry before the first feed its not a bad idea to toss one in. Generally feed a couple hrs before lights out for the last time but you want to split the events evenly throughout lights on.

It may sound like you will be watering way to much but when you calculate how much you are feeding and then the frequency its not much more than most already do, just supplied in a manner that provides much greater stability. You will be using much smaller amounts of nutrient solution and by feeding much more frequently it doesn't take much to get your runoff while keeping the rootzone ph, ppm and moisture content ideal
Thanks Aquaman, I've always wondered why people use coco, on the farm I saw tons of rookies screwing up with it and pro's thriving with it. I couldn't understand why they wouldn't just use Promix type soils...it seems almost idiot proof....almost...lol......Well worded in English I can understand......its a good thing my wife didn't try to write that.....Some women have a language I don't always get and my wife is one of them, today's words don't always mean the same thing tomorrow....lol.....
 
Just dropping in here to say thanks for writing this up. Running five fertigation events a day right now and am wasting too much solution through run off, so needed a quick refresher on volumes. You're a gentleman and a scholar @Aqua Man , I don't care what @Moe.Red says about ya
 
Just dropping in here to say thanks for writing this up. Running five fertigation events a day right now and am wasting too much solution through run off, so needed a quick refresher on volumes. You're a gentleman and a scholar @Aqua Man , I don't care what @Moe.Red says about ya
Thanks for tagging me I missed this thread. Got some reading to do after I fill my cloner.
 
Back
Top Bottom