Register a free account today to become a Bud Builders member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on our site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox.
Join the fun and make some friends!
The further you can keep it away from the plants the better for atomization and distribution.
Topped the.2 QC Blues twice the others only once so far
Thx I put a new longer extension cord so I can move it around now, it’s in the corner right now but will prob end up nearer the fan if possible
Story of my life;
I was wondering about the air gap between the top of the inserts and the 1 inch of water in the trays. seem to me the roots are going to be exposed to open air the in the 2" of space between them, where the clay balls would lay. I guess being in the dark and in a damp location alls good.Story of my life;
I finally was done with the transfere and fixing the valves, preping the clay balls, etc.,
mixing the soil with perlite and worm castings and azmonite and gypsom, getting it all done,
took a few hrs and then shop vac'ed the room.
I used the clay balls cause the Air Base inserts were not arriving till the 11th - 17th, they said.
Went to check the mail and wattaya kno the darn inserts arrived
Man they are nice and I would have saved myself a lot of time and trouble if I just waited another few hours.
They are over built and the center pops out for the air dome to fit in. They would be hard to replicate tho.
So next grow I throw out the clay balls lol.
It says you have to stuff the material down them holes to fill in that gap with material I guess they mean your soil or whatever you’re using
Ah, then whats the purpose of the air base inserts if we need to fill the base with soil anyways?. Saves on clay balls but we still need to fill the gap?.......odd now that I think about them.
The Air Base Guide says this "Push the medium down through the holes in the Base-
I'm not sure how the clay balls work then, I know the roots rapidly grow through the clay balls and the top of my soil in the pots is damp...capillary action drawing up moisture is working but my brain can't get around it because the balls don't seem to hold much moisture.....they float....science shit....lol
None of it makes sense to me.
On past grows the roots have been massive around the air dome and onto the airstone through the balls. I never got that with regular pots. my plants have jumped since putting them in the pots and turning them on. Even through the leaking trays they were jumping in size & now that they've flipped they're going to be too big again...lol...I hope to get a net on today and bend them over to keep them down with maybe a bit of lower grooming on them as well.
Right now I got plain water in the tank.
growdoctorguides.com
If there in regular promix theres no feed for plants. A light feed wont hurt them.
Yes they need feeding, I start at around 3 weeks in veg giving them 2/2/2 ml / gal Micro/Grow/Bloom then move up weekly as they grow, I just fed my 1 week in flower plants , 8 week old, 5/6/6 +1 Tsp epsom salts........+ my other stuff, Diamond Nectar, Flora Clean at 4/5 ml/gal, next week 3, cal/mag gets added in at 5ml/gal , then Kool Bloom once the buds have formed around week 4
I’ll give em a light feed now that they’ve settled in with Pro-Tekt an Foilage Pro.
Similar but different, where we fill a tray with a float valve and the roots draw from the bottom wicking water up through the substrateIs this a SIP system?
Indoor Sub Irrigated Planter (SIP) Build - GrowDoctor Guides
How to build a sub irrigated planter. It's like DWC with no risk of root rot!
So it just keeps a reservoir of water for the plants to draw from? The float is to maintain water level? I would imagine it is connected to an open water source to keep the reservoirs topped off?
No open water source we need to top off the tank with nutrients every couple of days when they are in flower. They'll go through a gallon plus a day each at peak so we often need to top up daily. In veg they can go almost a week without topping off
So what is the advantage of using this type of system to hand watering? I can see that it would have a constant source of nutrient like in DWC but as far as having to keep them watered I'm not sure I see the advantage.
I switched from cloth pots to this system because of my back.
Bro, you would be fine in RDWC, you are doing great as it is! I have not followed a lot of what you are doing but you already know quite a bit from what I have seen.
Ya maybe, but I got this system for now and would take some high thinking to get another going,
The last 4 weeks you have troubles? I'm not sure if this chart will help but I follow it and I start with cal/mag week 3 in flower. I've followed this chart through my last 2 grows and I'm not getting the yellow fade starting week 4. I don't use cal/mag while vegging and its fked me up when I have but in these pots they seems to like it.
Yes I have that chart on my desktop and will take another look at it but my brain finds it hard to read lol
I just see where it starts to need cal/mag then the need for K at 4 weeks peaking at 6 then tapering off all nutes. I stretch it to 10 weeks so I just imagine the upward and downward slope & this run I'm peaking feed at 6 weeks then start cutting back, like 1 ml/feed per nute/gal. I can also see how quickly cal/mag is needed at 3 weeks and by week 5 already cutting back or in my case this time it will be week 6.
I think it's the tapering off of nutes that get me and Lights to high or to intense.
Going under the led's after vegging under t5's I have noticed leave issues and after talking it out on the farm it was diagnosed as needing more magnesium so I add a tsp/ gallon with regular feeds for 2-3 weeks ( 1 week before I flip and 2 weeks into flower) until I start adding cal/mag at week 3 weeks in flower. Then at the end as a flush/ treatment with 1 tbs / gal the last 3-4 days of their life to help with the burn after harvest. Supposed to be a tobacco farmers trick for better burning tobacco
I been dumping my run off before I put them in AP's so all that going down my main drain.
I currently add 10-100ppm of mag sulfate, depending on the stage and what the plants are trying to tell me.
I've been vegging under fluorescent for 25+ years and I like them, I started with t'8s and moved to T5's and they're good for 2+ months with additional t5 side lighting but moving them under the led's caused leaf issues. I probably had the light on too strong as well but my leaves are now healthier after putting them under the led's & adding some Epsom salts. I'm just moving into week 2 of flower and I'm bumping my lights to 75%ish today from 60% and see how my plants handle itI been dumping my run off before I put them in AP's so all that going down my main drain.
Now I got to call a plumber cause tree root in the yard next door and out front are getting into my drain system.
I think the nutes I dump cause them to grow faster lmao dam.
Now its plugged up so no showers or flushing or dishes till the plumber comes
I think I will have to take the tank outside to dump from now on.
For some reason I get antsey and only use the T5's for the first 2-3 weeks then I have to fire up the big light.
Works for me and I have no issues with the change over. Going to try that (tsp/gal @ flip and for a week or 2 after) when I flip any day now.
Hey everything looking great, plants look nice and healthy and with your pots all running they'll take off.
Oh ya much nicer, no back pain when I’m finished. Easy to move around and plenty of room.
I have a yellow and black mite eater somehow playing on my leaves in December
I killed a couple yellow jackets in my house last week.
