Nesta’s DWC Attempt

Here's where you can read about Aqua's method. It seemed a little advanced for a beginner like myself, so I just made my own way and rolled with it. I live by that title of mine... wingin' it.


Read through this and it might make more sense to you. I'll revist this method as I continue to improve my own method. Aqua is the fuckin' man when it comes to water chemistry and the like. I'd like to get to the point where this method comes easily like second nature, but for now, I'll keep wingin' it.
Thanks, grump. I’ll take a look at it. I really just want to keep this simple so I will probably fill the top off Res with the same nutrient solution as the lower Res. That simply makes sense to me. Others feel free to chime in if I’m going down the wrong path here!
 
Any reason you don’t fill the top off res with the same nutrient ratio thats already in your system?
Ive bean doing it this way for a dozen years and it doesn't seem to be broke.i know daily how many ppms they are eating and i feel it's more a exact science. Im not live or sterile im neither meaning i don't add anything costic or beanies to my water.

Heres another chart that kinda goes along with the chart gramp posted.
Screenshot_20240125-195325_Drive.jpg
 
Thanks, grump. I’ll take a look at it. I really just want to keep this simple so I will probably fill the top off Res with the same nutrient solution as the lower Res. That simply makes sense to me. Others feel free to chime in if I’m going down the wrong path here!
Water chemistry is complicated. Until it's not. This is the hydro learning curve that keeps the soil folks feeling superior lol

I think as long as you keep taking some of the res water out of the system periodically, you will be fine. You will still need to do res changes, not just top offs. For reasons that complicate things.

FWIW, Smoke and I top off with RO water. SLG uses RO too, but he does not actively top off, that is a manual process for him. Grump told you what he does... so our setups are all a little different from yours starting with the water source.

All of these setups work.
 
Thanks, grump. I’ll take a look at it. I really just want to keep this simple so I will probably fill the top off Res with the same nutrient solution as the lower Res. That simply makes sense to me. Others feel free to chime in if I’m going down the wrong path here!
In my opinion, the plants are better off underfed rather than overfed, so topping off with RO is probably the SAFEST route.

I learned from Moe and Aqua and then sorta found my own groove. I've only had 2 successful runs and each were done differently so I think there's a little wiggle room. Like Moe always told me, "we're just trying to keep it in the fairway."
 
@moe.red or @GrumpAzz or anyone else, do you guys aerate your top off reservoirs?
Actually not this time. I got it all rigged up and the bubblers in my top-off res and control res robbed all the air and made the bubbles in the plant sites weak as hell. I'll get a better manifold ordered but for now, no bubbles in the top-off.

Right now, I just got it rigged up with various Ts and that just makes for such uneven pressure at the outlets.
 
In my opinion, the plants are better off underfed rather than overfed, so topping off with RO is probably the SAFEST route.

I learned from Moe and Aqua and then sorta found my own groove. I've only had 2 successful runs and each were done differently so I think there's a little wiggle room. Like Moe always told me, "we're just trying to keep it in the fairway."
The problem with topping off with RO is that the chart posted by slg does not strictly apply. For example EC will always drop as the res becomes diluted.

The way you top off does make a difference in chemistry interpretation.

If slg were here he would explain that topping off with nutes is better because that chart is correct and it makes sense to him.

I prefer to keep a constant water level and manually add nutes as I see how the plants respond. Topping off with RO automatically allows for that. It essentially runs the plants thru a weakening solution of nutes as a week goes by giving you a chance to hopefully select a sweet spot. Or to easily adjust at minimum if needed. Some plants are just cal-mag whores.

Keeping the water level higher also improves o2

So it comes down to the amount and frequency of time you want to spend in the garden and which grow style feels right to you. All have been proven successful. There is a much larger margin for error than we typically think for the most part. What gets posted about is problems more than successes
 
The problem with topping off with RO is that the chart posted by slg does not strictly apply. For example EC will always drop as the res becomes diluted.

The way you top off does make a difference in chemistry interpretation.

If slg were here he would explain that topping off with nutes is better because that chart is correct and it makes sense to him.

I prefer to keep a constant water level and manually add nutes as I see how the plants respond. Topping off with RO automatically allows for that. It essentially runs the plants thru a weakening solution of nutes as a week goes by giving you a chance to hopefully select a sweet spot. Or to easily adjust at minimum if needed. Some plants are just cal-mag whores.

Keeping the water level higher also improves o2

So it comes down to the amount and frequency of time you want to spend in the garden and which grow style feels right to you. All have been proven successful. There is a much larger margin for error than we typically think for the most part. What gets posted about is problems more than successes
I agree and I think I said similar about that particular chart.

My first round I just let the ppms fall between res changes and it seemed to work out alright. I was changing the res every 2 weeks so the ppms never really fell more then 100.

Just kinda showing him that he's got options, letting him kinda decide which way he wants to go with it.

Either way you run it, we got your back @Nesta
 
Thanks guys. This definitely makes sense. For me, I think I am going to run the top off res with nute metrics matching the system. This just makes the most sense in my mind. Can always change strategy down the road if needed. Appreciate the help!!!
 
Below is a more advanced method to tops ups.

Generally an EI (estimated Index) type system has been traditionally used in hydro. This was taken from the aquarium hobby but only partially.

So as nutrients are taken up they are not taken up in the exact ratio that we supply them in. This means over time our nutrient ratios change and this the need for a complete res change.

Some do weekly some biweekly etc etc etc.
To keep ratios withing a certain range.

By topping up WITH nutrients you can delay this indefinitely.

But you can also make the most of the nutrients by combining it with water changes.

How i do it is to too up using the method below. Then doing a complete water change once i have added back the actual water volume the system holds.

I can explain more if you like just for understanding purposes but understand there are many ways to do this successfully. I just feel this way keeps nutrient ratios very stable and leads to the reduced amount of water changes then the traditional once a week.

In the early stages you may only need a water change after over a month or longer. N the late stages where they drink a lot you may need it weekly.

The general concept come from as i said Estimated Index for aquariums so you can google that to get a bit more context. Generally for planted tank nutrients but also for water quality maintenance of nitrates to keep safe levels for fish

Thread 'RDWC advanced top up method explained by Aqua Man'
https://budbuilders.org/threads/rdwc-advanced-top-up-method-explained-by-aqua-man.209/
 
There are many that can go an entire grow without a change out and without issues.

That is almost completely due to the water volume of the system.

Thats why i prefer to measure my add backs and change once i have added back the volume of water the system holds.

Basically fool proof but requires record keeping.
 
Below is a more advanced method to tops ups.

Generally an EI (estimated Index) type system has been traditionally used in hydro. This was taken from the aquarium hobby but only partially.

So as nutrients are taken up they are not taken up in the exact ratio that we supply them in. This means over time our nutrient ratios change and this the need for a complete res change.

Some do weekly some biweekly etc etc etc.
To keep ratios withing a certain range.

By topping up WITH nutrients you can delay this indefinitely.

But you can also make the most of the nutrients by combining it with water changes.

How i do it is to too up using the method below. Then doing a complete water change once i have added back the actual water volume the system holds.

I can explain more if you like just for understanding purposes but understand there are many ways to do this successfully. I just feel this way keeps nutrient ratios very stable and leads to the reduced amount of water changes then the traditional once a week.

In the early stages you may only need a water change after over a month or longer. N the late stages where they drink a lot you may need it weekly.

The general concept come from as i said Estimated Index for aquariums so you can google that to get a bit more context. Generally for planted tank nutrients but also for water quality maintenance of nitrates to keep safe levels for fish

Thread 'RDWC advanced top up method explained by Aqua Man'
https://budbuilders.org/threads/rdwc-advanced-top-up-method-explained-by-aqua-man.209/
Awesome

Thanks aqua.
 
Let me explain why some would benefit from a complete change and others a partial change like 50%.

Its simple… sterile either work.

Live systems that use beneficial bacteria you want to do 50% or less at a time. The reason is to maintain a thriving population.

Since your beneficial bacteria come in the form of spores etc they take a while to fully recolonize so while adding more for a complete water change is a must it will still leave you with a window if vulnerability.

So if you run live systems i suggest 50% water changes after adding back 50% of the water volume in the system.

There are many small nuances that make up a good live system and once you understand those then you will have a hard time killing a plant.

Thats where simplicity for beginners comes in. A super simple way is do a 50% water change a week and add back some bennies each time.

As i stated a ove my method is a bit more complicated but is far more efficient with nutrients and water usage.

A live system is more beneficial to a person who can use it effectively while a sterile system is far better for someone who can’t or lacks knowledge/experience. Personally i think jumping into the deep end is the best way to learn.
 
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