smoke

For some reason I was under the impression you had 12 ft ceilings.....

Then judging from your last few posts are you thinking of going LED for energy savings and heat control?
12 ft ceilings are only in the flwr room. 16x13x12

8 ft ceiling in the veg room. 14x8x8

Only mentioned going led on the veg side because I try to control the temp and rh mostly by ventilation and with outside temps above 100 deg thats a challenge

If i was to do it over i would probably go double ended in the flwr room
 
12 ft ceilings are only in the flwr room. 16x13x12
8 ft ceiling in the veg room. 14x8x8

Only mentioned going led on the veg side because I try to control the temp and rh mostly by ventilation and with outside temps above 100 deg thats a challenge

If i was to do it over i would probably go double ended in the flwr room
With ceilings that high you could really utilize some double ended forsure!
 
Yea, somethin like that 😆
tbh, i found some mold in the walls of my office and am planning on replacing the drywall at some point. When they framed in the walls they left a massive cavity between the concrete and sheetrock.

So I'm thinking of putting in some pretty substantial insulation before rehanging the new panels. never in my life have i ran a space heater when it's 90F outside but down here in my office, it doesn't get above 60F if I don't. I think by adding much more substantial insulation it'll keep the room closer to what the rest of the house temperature is vs slightly nippley. I can only imagine it's gonna be ball shrinkingly cold during the winter.
 
When they framed in the walls they left a massive cavity between the concrete and sheetrock.
By massive, you mean like 6" or like a foot or more? I know dead air space is sometimes used for a certain amount of insulation value, not sure how much. I wonder if that is what they were thinking when they framed it?

Basements are known for being cooler and more constant temp wise. I'm not sure you can get away from that but I could be wrong. A bit of research might save you some cash if you throw a bunch of insulation in there and don't get what you are looking to achieve. Figure out why they framed it the way they did because there may be some method to the madness.
 
By massive, you mean like 6" or like a foot or more? I know dead air space is sometimes used for a certain amount of insulation value, not sure how much. I wonder if that is what they were thinking when they framed it?

Basements are known for being cooler and more constant temp wise. I'm not sure you can get away from that but I could be wrong. A bit of research might save you some cash if you throw a bunch of insulation in there and don't get what you are looking to achieve. Figure out why they framed it the way they did because there may be some method to the madness.
it's about 12", maybe a little over. none of the dimensions in this house are standard lol it's irritating to do anything because 16" on center isn't 16" on center, anywhere. doors aren't standard, not a single window is the same size, nothing is square.

i get using dead space for insulation -- that's the whole point of batting to create dead space and trap air movement, but if there's nothing in there to catch and hold hot or cold, it's still just air. the basement does stay pretty consistent at ~65F but we've only been in the house for this summer so we'll see what it does in the winter.
 
it's about 12", maybe a little over. none of the dimensions in this house are standard lol it's irritating to do anything because 16" on center isn't 16" on center, anywhere. doors aren't standard, not a single window is the same size, nothing is square.
Crazy....never heard of giving up that much living space for no apparent reason. I hear you on the everything not right. I spent my career in remodeling and not much in the real world is plumb, level and square. Old homes are the exception usually but not always.

The house I own now, which I added on to and completely restored down to bare studs the original house, had an old addition that was like you say, so messed up. Where you wanted 16" centers, they gave 24" and vice versa 🤷‍♂️ That room has our well, pressure tank and a bunch of water lines, also where I put my RO system. Before I fixed that room, our water and waste lines would freeze up every year when we would get below -20. I found out why when I tore the room apart, no insulation at all and the waste lines barely had any slope lol. Let's just say it's fixed now.
 
Crazy....never heard of giving up that much living space for no apparent reason. I hear you on the everything not right. I spent my career in remodeling and not much in the real world is plumb, level and square. Old homes are the exception usually but not always.

The house I own now, which I added on to and completely restored down to bare studs the original house, had an old addition that was like you say, so messed up. Where you wanted 16" centers, they gave 24" and vice versa 🤷‍♂️ That room has our well, pressure tank and a bunch of water lines, also where I put my RO system. Before I fixed that room, our water and waste lines would freeze up every year when we would get below -20. I found out why when I tore the room apart, no insulation at all and the waste lines barely had any slope lol. Let's just say it's fixed now.
way to inspire a first time home buyer bud lol the shit i've found so far has me all kinds of fucked up. 10/10 i'll run into the same issue with the waste drain no thaving enough slope. my office half bath catches the soap from the guest bath tub, so i know there's an issue somewhere, but not quite ready to scope the clean out and find out exactly what's wrong. ignorance is bliss lol
 
By massive, you mean like 6" or like a foot or more? I know dead air space is sometimes used for a certain amount of insulation value, not sure how much. I wonder if that is what they were thinking when they framed it?

Basements are known for being cooler and more constant temp wise. I'm not sure you can get away from that but I could be wrong. A bit of research might save you some cash if you throw a bunch of insulation in there and don't get what you are looking to achieve. Figure out why they framed it the way they did because there may be some method to the madness.
Usually in cold climates you have to insulate the basement to the frost line. After that isn’t necessary. About 4’ down.
 
tbh, i found some mold in the walls of my office and am planning on replacing the drywall at some point. When they framed in the walls they left a massive cavity between the concrete and sheetrock.
Some places up north did that because of dampness. Do you see any sign the wall sweats? Any flaky buildup or powered spots on the floor? They could have air going through it too, like a cold air return, but usually has a vent for circulation.
 
none of the dimensions in this house are standard lol it's irritating to do anything because 16" on center isn't 16" on center, anywhere. doors aren't standard, not a single window is the same size, nothing is square.
I didn't know you were working on my house.... you're quiet!
Isnt it fun when nothing lines up?
The studs in my wall couldve framed bow windows dude.
 
it's about 12", maybe a little over. none of the dimensions in this house are standard lol it's irritating to do anything because 16" on center isn't 16" on center, anywhere. doors aren't standard, not a single window is the same size, nothing is square.

i get using dead space for insulation -- that's the whole point of batting to create dead space and trap air movement, but if there's nothing in there to catch and hold hot or cold, it's still just air. the basement does stay pretty consistent at ~65F but we've only been in the house for this summer so we'll see what it does in the winter.
I think I know the builder, or of him...he built parts of my house, wired it too....some of my stuff would scare you....some whites are hot or ground,,,all are soldered connections with old friction tape as a cap...short fkin wires too no connectors into some boxes. I don't think there were building codes or electrical codes when they built my place....or they didn't inspect
 
Did a water change on aug 23 and then another 12 days later which was yesterday.

The water change on the 23, i usually leave about 5 gallons in the system of old microbes to mix with the new water although @Moe.Red says the slime on the buckets is enough. ??

After the change, it was ph down bits at a time aiming for 6.2. Forgot about it and had ppm at 260 and ph 6.2

Next morning ph at 7.2 woops .... Ph drifting higher as usual the day after a water change. Turned the auto doser to monitor from control so it wouldn't add ph up while making adjustments with ph down. Adding nutes to 380 ppm ph at 6.2. (Auto doser is still set to monitor)

Next morning ph is at 4.5 ph and ppms have dropped by 70 ppms (they ate alot)
20230830_091655.jpg20230831_093230.jpg

Fast forward to today's change, Sept 5 day 23 of flower, ppms at 430 after being fed.
20230905_092006.jpg
Defoliate on day 21
20230905_083814.jpg20230905_083829.jpg20230905_083840.jpg20230905_083844.jpg
 
The water change on the 23, i usually leave about 5 gallons in the system of old microbes to mix with the new water although @Moe.Red says the slime on the buckets is enough. ??
Correct, colonies form on surfaces. A very small percentage is free floating in the water column. In a mature system, almost none.



Author summary

A vast portion of bacterial life on Earth takes place on surfaces. In many of these surfaces cells collectively organize into biofilms that are known to provide them protection from various environmental stresses.

 
Makes me feel a little better about chasing my pH...
Im actually of the opinion that they enjoy the stress factor.

Did a broscience thing in my veg room and just let the ph fall to whatever it wanted. Settled at 4.2 for quite a while and i think it hurt the fibrous root structure. Again Broscience
20221103_075849.jpg
 
Back
Top Bottom