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I see now..I just woke up to myself lol..It’s beneficial 24hrs a day unlike co2 in the atmosphere is only beneficial during lights on
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I see now..I just woke up to myself lol..It’s beneficial 24hrs a day unlike co2 in the atmosphere is only beneficial during lights on
You could super oxygenate the water prior to flooding, but unless the root zone is sealed up I'll bet it is not worth the effort or expense. Would need testing.How should I do it in a flood and drain setup?
I do not know and as you stated would need testing. I have started screwing around with different media, as in one that holds more water below the root zone and a more porous product above the root zone.You could super oxygenate the water prior to flooding, but unless the root zone is sealed up I'll bet it is not worth the effort or expense. Would need testing.
correct.I think there are 2 kinds of liquid O2.
There are gels that deep sea divers use - never seen one up close.
There is liquid O2 - frozen in bottles.
I have not looked into either one. I can't imagine the cost and safety as well as the equipment needed to use this is worth it for cannabis. Maybe in space.
Whacha mean by liquid o2?
Cannabis marketing 101 at its finest… take something factual and find a way to twist it and scam people out of their money.
yea i was trying to find the LIquid oxygen i was looking at last night, some of these are just peroxide lolCannabis marketing 101 at its finest… take something factual and find a way to twist it and scam people out of their money.
See a big part of the problem is the majority of ppl who use products and don’t have issue with them seem to support them and say they work. The problem is the fact that they don’t hurt your plants doesn’t equate to they help your plants…. This is almost exclusively what drives all of this marketing gimmickry as all these companies know this
Short of controlling the atmosphere above the water…. Nothing will help imoyea i was trying to find the LIquid oxygen i was looking at last night, some of these are just peroxide lol
Yeah there don't seem to be a lot of possible solutionsz I've been racking my head about DOShort of controlling the atmosphere above the water…. Nothing will help imo
Been there bro… like months upon months of itYeah there don't seem to be a lot of possible solutionsz I've been racking my head about DO
Not me.Been there bro… like months upon months of it
Keep in mind water too cold although it's going to have lots of oxygen it can shock the plants. Will take hours to recover and might be an issue with frequent watering cycles@Aqua Man - Sorry I didn't get back to this sooner.
Well... I'm going to have to eat my words on that one. I'm sure I saw it somewhere, but I sure can't find it now. If I eventually find it, I'll try to remember to let you know. It's probably wrong, though, because if it were correct there would be more information, and there isn't any.
It's become clear to me that O2 has understated importance. This document was helpful to me as a primer on the subject:
As a soil grower, I'm mostly interested in finding ways to increase O2 in the soil. That's why @Pipecarver's post with the air domes interested me. I don't know how many things I'm doing wrong, but how I prepare irrigation water might be one of them. I've been filling my watering cans after I use them and letting them sit till the next watering. Now I'm thinking that doing so makes the water anaerobic, both from off-gassing and warming the water to room temperature. That takes me in the direction of wondering how to improve soil oxygenation.
Meanwhile... I see that you're also correct about how H2O2 is best used as a disinfectant. I found recipes for using it to get rid of fungus gnats and used one of them yesterday. It's a 4:1 mix of water to 3% hydrogen peroxide. I sprayed it on the surface of the soil and today I haven't seen any gnats. Hooray for that!
Keep in mind water too cold although it's going to have lots of oxygen it can shock the plants. Will take hours to recover and might be an issue with frequent watering cycles
Cold sequester of oxygen is most helpful in a specific range IMO
I'm not sure if @Aqua Man has a specific optimal number he's dialed in or not. But I'm thinking it's between 60-65f or perhaps even a few degrees higher.
Everything I am talking about is hydro. I wouldn't expect the amount of O2 in water for soil or coco to make that much of a difference. I could be wrong on that, still lots of things to test.I haven't checked the temperature of the water I'm using. I just fill the watering cans after each use, so they'll be ready when they're needed. I suspect the water temperature is in the mid to low 70s. The cans sit on the floor, which should be the coolest part of the room. The room itself is currently 76.8º and 51.2% RH.
I thought it was about hydro, but I was quoted, so I thought maybe I was involved somehow. Otherwise, I think you're correct about the O2 in water not being a factor for an organic-soil-in-fabric-pot grower like me.Everything I am talking about is hydro. I wouldn't expect the amount of O2 in water for soil or coco to make that much of a difference. I could be wrong on that, still lots of things to test.
Me too. Just started. I'm using tap water now. Not even PHing it. Weird.I thought it was about hydro, but I was quoted, so I thought maybe I was involved somehow. Otherwise, I think you're correct about the O2 in water not being a factor for an organic-soil-in-fabric-pot grower like me.
I don't adjust the pH of my tap water. I test it just to know what it is. It is consistently 7.6. When I have done slurry tests on soil from my pots, however, it has been slightly below 6. As far as I know, the pH of the water I use hasn't impacted the health of my plants. I don't know that for sure, though.Me too. Just started. I'm using tap water now. Not even PHing it. Weird.
I suppose a person could make a case for an O2 implementation for soil. The analysis probably would be better served by thinking of it as gas exchange, which is important for soil because roots do aerobic respiration. (Roots take in oxygen and give off carbon dioxide.) It's likely the use of gas permeable (e.g., fabric) pots with adequate air circulation is a satisfactory solution for most soil growers. (It's what I do.) Nevertheless, some of us want to explore better ways. So, the challenge would be to try to improve the movement of gases beyond what we already do. Ergo, in what ways could gas exchange processes be made more efficacious.All this O2 stuff doesn't make a lot of sense to me in soil. The medium is the limiting factor in getting O2 to the roots, so why choose it if you want to run O2? Makes no sense to me from an engineering standpoint.
Holy cow that's a big jump. I'm not surprised that all those optimum move around. Especially with the extra oxygen taking it up furtherWith good gas exchange and at atmospheric o2 i found 72 to be the best for growth.
The reason for that is the metabolic increase from temperature provides more benefit than the small change in o2 at those temps.
Now if you start removing the limit of o2 based on temp…. I can see this being closer to 76-80f
My guess is it's nutrient specific as to the needs of the plants. A little higher as aqua suggest during the veggies and even earlier flowerI’m running 78 in the fog res and roots and colonies explode.
I have been hotter by accident and I see diminishing returns past 80.
If running atmospheric O2 I have settled on 72 but have no data to support it is best. I run a chiller to maintain that.
I think you might be surprised but it's biggest obstacle is the requirement of pressure and would probably need much more frequent wateringsEverything I am talking about is hydro. I wouldn't expect the amount of O2 in water for soil or coco to make that much of a difference. I could be wrong on that, still lots of things to test.
You will need to dial back the volume imo… unless adding a bit of water to the bottom so your not pumping dry air into the rootzone but even then you want a small volumeWhen I get back from my trip I'm going to try putting a 6" air stone disc at the bottom of a plastic nursery pot and insert a cloth pot over it like Aquaman suggested to see if pumping air through the soil has any real benefits.
I have one of the little ActiveAqua pumps with the volume dial on top so I can adjust the air volume. I'm going to have to figure out some sort of plumbing to fit the air pump to the air stone. The air stone has a 3/8's hose barb whereas the air pump has two 1/4" outlets. I need to find a 1/4" x 3/8" x 1/4" tee manifold so that I can utilize both outlet ports on the pump.You will need to dial back the volume imo… unless adding a bit of water to the bottom so your not pumping dry air into the rootzone but even then you want a small volume
Yeah. I was spoiled in Cali with Hydro stores on practically every corner so finding parts was easy. I'll have to google it and see who has one in that configuration. A Y would be even better than a T.They make nylon hose barbs and all sorts of size hose.
View attachment 12334
Here I went from Pex I think 1/2 0r 3/4 to3/8 then another fitting from 3/8 to 1/4 then I slip fit the vinyl hose over silicone.
I had 2 pumps running almost 80 tanks from 80g-1.5g.
View attachment 12335
Alita FTW and for a lifetime. Great huge volume and pressure pumps.
Every pump will do better and last longer with a fan blowing on it.