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Getting started again after taking a break. Need a few pointers

DoobieGrows said:
I have to feed them every 6 hours. And they are not even flowering yet. It's times like these I question using 1 gallon pots 🤔🤤🤠
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Could probably increase times between watering, how dry/light is the bag getting before next?

Proper HFF In 1 gallons will perform better than HFF in 3 gallons, faster drybacks/more.
 
DoobieGrows said:
My ladies are going to get their first defoliation. When do you guys defoliate your Autos? I usually do one when bud sites start forming. Then I will take off some more at about 40-45 days.
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I have not grown autos, but you could maybe defoliate a few days before you switch to flower, if you want to.

Not sure how all that plays in with auto genes.
 
Observer said:
Could probably increase times between watering, how dry/light is the bag getting before next?

Proper HFF In 1 gallons will perform better than HFF in 3 gallons, faster drybacks/more.
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They are pretty light when I pick them up. Not bone dry but definitely the top layer is drying out. But I did see a little green algae forming on a piece of perlite so I may be over watering a tad bit.
 
DoobieGrows said:
They are pretty light when I pick them up. Not bone dry but definitely the top layer is drying out. But I did see a little green algae forming on a piece of perlite so I may be over watering a tad bit.
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You could probably go a little longer, perhaps even till the plant is showing you it would like some water and baseline off that
 
Doobie said:
When lights are on temperature is 80-81. Rh is 58%.
When the lights go off the Temperature goes down to 75-77 and the Rh is usually 65%
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I try to run 85f 70rh for most of veg and flower and then drop last week or two towards 70s and low (like 10-40 if possible) RH to stress them, more trichomes will develop on the sugar/fan leafs.
 
Observer said:
I try to run 85f 70rh for most of veg and flower and then drop last week or two towards 70s and low (like 10-40 if possible) RH to stress them, more trichomes will develop on the sugar/fan leafs.
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I think I have done this a couple of times by accident 😂. My last grow this happened and I couldn't get the humidity past 30% during flowering. I thought it was a good thing because no mold or pm is going to grow in that low rh. Now I need try to mimic what happened last time because the bud was killer.
 
Doobie said:
I think I have done this a couple of times by accident 😂. My last grow this happened and I couldn't get the humidity past 30% during flowering.
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If you can keep it up during the "growth" weeks youll yield can be higher (a proper vpd for growth)
Doobie said:
I thought it was a good thing because no mold or pm is going to grow in that low rh. Now I need try to mimic what happened last time because the bud was killer.
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But yeah, low rh and low Temps at the end before harvest a week or two, can bring out colors, and also act as a stressor when it's so dry the stomates have trouble opening / stressors = secondary metabolites more likely to synthesize, as the plants " defense mechanism"

And the colors is a result of the pigmentation changing due to the temperature, the exact mechanism I can not recall or say right now, but brings out anthocyanins as a response.

And those are also medically beneficial
 
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Day 34
The 3 I started first got a defoliation. It's a slow process for autos. I take a leaf or two once a day over a period of about a week.

Luckily they didn't Skip a beat. Because they are all in pre flower. So I expect a big stretch in the next few weeks. IMG_20241006_055528223.jpgIMG_20241006_055537283.jpgIMG_20241006_055542416.jpgNew Growth on the one in the center is a little wonky. It may be getting too much light as it's in the hot spot of my HLG 600R. But I did just feed her after the light came on. So she will perk up soon.
 
So I have been playing my ladies music. I start with this 432 gh sunrise Playlist. It starts birds chirping and all the other natural outdoors sounds. Then when that's over I play them 4-8 hours of classical music. They seem to like it.
 
So I think I have been over watering. I have a small fungus gnat problem. I am using Southern AG Garden Friendly Fungicide but I don't think that does anything for fungus gnats. The plants are looking healthy it's more of a nuisance than anything else. I may order some mosquito dunks or bits. But I have no clue how well they work. I also read about using H2O2 as a soil drench but I don't know if the risk is worth the reward. Any suggestions for getting rid of the fungus gnats?
 
I have used the bits with success.
Some use diatomaceous earth but once it gets wet it needs to be replaced I believe.
Yellow sticky traps are your friend also, but will not solve the problem completely.
 
I noted late you are coco which won't let DE work long enough to be worth it.
Here are other methods.
To control fungus gnats, you can123:
  • Use Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis applied every three to seven days to provide some control.
  • Use nematodes, such as Steinernema feltiae, if the first application is made at planting.
  • Use yellow sticky traps to control adult fungus gnats.
  • Make an apple cider vinegar trap.
  • Kill the larvae with cinnamon.
  • Use hydrogen peroxide to kill fungus gnats.
  • Kill fungus gnats with rubbing alcohol.
  • Use citronella oil as a fungus gnat repellent.
  • Use neem oil to get rid of gnats.
In replacement of citronella I have used orange extract that works and makes the room smell great.
I have mixed with water and drenched roots [ not to sprayed on leaves].

D-limonene
Orange oil extract is used for pest control123. It contains d-limonene, which is an effective insecticide against a variety of pests, including termites1. It kills fleas, aphids, mites, fire ants, house crickets, paper wasps, and some flies2. The active compound is a nerve toxin that kills insects on contact within minutes2.
 
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