This is such a weird thing - nutes and levels. Skip to the end if you just want a starting point and don't care about details. <Skip>
If you are still here, we can take a deeper look as to why what works for some will not work for others. So many variables. Allow me to pull up my soap box.
The amount of salt (total PPM) in your res will be very dependent on your environment, lights, and genetics. So the GH chart that shows 1000PPM+ will be hot for most growers on this forum. We are not folks who put a solo cup on a windowsill and try to grow a few grams. Most of us have proper lighting, RH and Temp control etc.
Light and VPD will set the amount of transpiration. Quite often in hydro, transpiration is very high compared to soil. If you have active means of dehumidification to keep the water out of the air to make room for new water vapor, transpiration remains high. If you have a closed grow and no dehumidification the RH will approach 100% and the plants will shut down because there is no room for more water to exit stomata.
Your setup will be on that spectrum. You can maintain proper VPD, you ignore it, or somewhere in-between.
If you can stay in the right VPD range, your total PPM in the res will need to be lower.
Think of it this way - lets say your 4 hydro plants
require 1 mg of N per day at their current stage.
will drink 4 gallons per day
you will need .25mg/gal N
Now they need 1 mg N per day
plants drink 1 gal water per day
you will need 1 mg/gal N
In those 2 examples, the top one represents
250PPM total in the res, the second one is
1000PPM.
Total oversimplification to make a point - protocol must be fine tuned to match your grow.
The primary reason for hydro - faster growth especially in veg - happens when we remove road blocks. For example, we do not need to wait for soil microbes to break down organics into a molecule the plant can uptake. That's the first speed bump out of the way.
Your grow will continue to have speed bumps to maximum potential growth. Could be light. Could be VPD. Could be CO2, or O2 to the roots. The way you address each of these setpoints (or don't) will all have an impact on both the overall PPM needed, as well as the ratios.
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If you want a starting point to begin your tuning process, you could do much worse than this:
Now in your case Nesta, I would not consider a 7 week veg. You are going for harvestable bud in a small space, not the stuff you can run thru a sawmill and get 2x4's like
@smoke.
If you want to dissect the GH labels I'm happy to do so.
I would not recommend anything but GH trio, your cal-mag of choice, PH up and down, your bennies, and potentially a PH buffer (that has other benefits like MSA, strong stalks) like potassium silicate (most rdwc growers use Agsil16 or similar)
In one grow you will get a feel for this lineup. It has everything you will need. Try to avoid the highly marketed additives like bloom ball buster and massive stroke bud maker or whatever the kids are selling these days. Trust in the basics and your plants and wallet will thank you.
Now, git 'er done, post up pics as you go, and we can try to help guide you thru the learning curve of RDWC. I figure one grow is all you need to get hooked.
