This is Vertical Germination

yeah, ready for print?!?!?! i found out it was much easier to just redraw the panels so i could manipulate the sizes easier. i didn't realize when you copied a drawing it doesn't give you the previous layers. here i told zen to go back on my rez and that isn't even possible.. learn something new everyday.

I changed the position of the center piece for clearance and that made it stick up. the ez way would have been to shorten it but i didn't want to make it smaller so i made the body and cover a little taller. if i remember correctly it was 5mm so the overall height went up. i wasn't sure if you made this so you could print it on you smaller printer too, so if this is a deal breaker let me know we can adjust.

so since you won't see old layers anyway then here use these links.. i suggest the special bandit base ;)


OR


and


here is your wavy piece..


and this is mine, a little thinner and prints in an hour...


you can compile them all in one design then in your profile and link it from there. everything on my profile that is smokey and the bandit are your parts with nubs and holes and nothing else changed, everything that is stoney and the bandit is your design cleaned up a tad and tolerances and sizes changed a little. all the parts are mix and match plug and play with each other though. minus your original body and cover are still the shorter size in case you wanted it 100mm max.

it assembles easiest if you insert the center piece into the cover first then put that assembly into the base. i had to clean up my holes a little with a xacto knife from the petg sagging a hair. the more you waller out the hole the looser and freer the parts will be. the nubs are 4mm and the holes are 4.20mm so they fit kinda tight to start.

View attachment 16023

also, here is a new copy of my rez. i made it bigger to fit the new size and used @Zen_seeker suggestions on the feet...




you guys are right, thanks for the reminder. when i started used one every time till i got the hang of it. i never used a full raft though, just a simpleraft but yeah perfect solution and i'm using it right now for a prototype on my wavy piece.

but.... BUT.....

when i printed it out flat and left the bed texture on the pieces, look what happens....


View attachment 16025

might be worth printing flat.... i know any i print will be!! :)

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thanks again guys for the raft idea, best looking center section i printed so far...

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🙃:)🙃
Id be printing this right now... but broken printer til next week lol
 
Bowden tube had a small kink in it and the fittings at each end cut into the tube too far so i couldnt get them off.
Ordering a new one Thursday, didnt expect 12.99 lol. Figured like 40

been there, mine came with a less quality tube and because of that i replaced with a bowden. but yeah one thing about it the parts aren't super expensive. i keep an extra hotend/tube/extruder on hand for breakdowns.

best of luck with it!!!
 
If you're into using direct to root microherd inoculates, now's the time

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Everything with a tap got dosed with Myco+ about an hour before planting.

And into a 1 gallon pot they go with premoistend Roots Greenfields soil.
Any good light, rich, and fast draining soil will do or whatever your method of vegging plants may be. The main thing here is no need for any kind of small seed starting pots or starter medium. Basically just jump into however you want to veg your plants.

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If you're into using direct to root microherd inoculates, now's the time

View attachment 16112

Everything with a tap got dosed with Myco+ about an hour before planting.

And into a 1 gallon pot they go with premoistend Roots Greenfields soil.
Any good light, rich, and fast draining soil will do or whatever your method of vegging plants may be. The main thing here is no need for any kind of small seed starting pots or starter medium. Basically just jump into however you want to veg your plants.

View attachment 16113
So what is your preferred method of actually getting the tap roots into soil without breaking them? I like to use a butter knife and push it in as deep as the tap to create a hole that isn't too big. This way I can just push the dirt at the sides down and it eliminates any air pockets I might leave.
 
So what is your preferred method of actually getting the tap roots into soil without breaking them? I like to use a butter knife and push it in as deep as the tap to create a hole that isn't too big. This way I can just push the dirt at the sides down and it eliminates any air pockets I might leave.
I use the handle of my garden claw to bore the hole.
Hold the sprout by the neck so it's head is above the surface and using your other hand, collapse the hole around the tap root then gently water it in

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Next up, two Ghost Train Haze.
Had one dud here, or a mutant mush, not sure what happened with the center seed but it was DOA.

Obviously VG is not going to make a dud seed grow but it is nice to be able to peel back the paper and know what happened rather than waiting for her to emerge which woulda never happened. That little bit of timely info helped me to know I better get replacements going ASAP

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To replace the dud I dropped 4 more seeds yesterday and already have action on two more GTH.
I kinda threw in a twist here and added Mycos + to the germination water.😉

An interesting thing here is you see the effect gravity has on the tip of a tap root. The one on the left is already on target and heading south meanwhile the one on the right is turning itself.
It's tempting to help the little lady spin around but don't!!! Do not touch her! Turning her will only confuse her and she'll pig tail. She's on track with her natural instinct. Letting her do this on her own is the play here

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I'm only covering germination in this thread but if you'd like to keep an eye on what happens from here with these sprouts, you'll see them in my diary starting on page 9🙂

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Peace, Luv, and Happy Vertical Germinating!✌️
 
yeah, ready for print?!?!?! i found out it was much easier to just redraw the panels so i could manipulate the sizes easier. i didn't realize when you copied a drawing it doesn't give you the previous layers. here i told zen to go back on my rez and that isn't even possible.. learn something new everyday.

I changed the position of the center piece for clearance and that made it stick up. the ez way would have been to shorten it but i didn't want to make it smaller so i made the body and cover a little taller. if i remember correctly it was 5mm so the overall height went up. i wasn't sure if you made this so you could print it on you smaller printer too, so if this is a deal breaker let me know we can adjust.

so since you won't see old layers anyway then here use these links.. i suggest the special bandit base ;)


OR


and


here is your wavy piece..


and this is mine, a little thinner and prints in an hour...


you can compile them all in one design then in your profile and link it from there. everything on my profile that is smokey and the bandit are your parts with nubs and holes and nothing else changed, everything that is stoney and the bandit is your design cleaned up a tad and tolerances and sizes changed a little. all the parts are mix and match plug and play with each other though. minus your original body and cover are still the shorter size in case you wanted it 100mm max.

it assembles easiest if you insert the center piece into the cover first then put that assembly into the base. i had to clean up my holes a little with a xacto knife from the petg sagging a hair. the more you waller out the hole the looser and freer the parts will be. the nubs are 4mm and the holes are 4.20mm so they fit kinda tight to start.

View attachment 16023

also, here is a new copy of my rez. i made it bigger to fit the new size and used @Zen_seeker suggestions on the feet...




you guys are right, thanks for the reminder. when i started used one every time till i got the hang of it. i never used a full raft though, just a simpleraft but yeah perfect solution and i'm using it right now for a prototype on my wavy piece.

but.... BUT.....

when i printed it out flat and left the bed texture on the pieces, look what happens....


View attachment 16025

might be worth printing flat.... i know any i print will be!! :)

.
.
thanks again guys for the raft idea, best looking center section i printed so far...

View attachment 16026

🙃:)🙃


Me working your design right now

giphy.gif


I've changed it up a bit but your hinges are absolutely brilliant Brother!
The next version (VG 3.0) will hopefully get on the printer in a couple days then I'll be able to show you what I've done with it.
I need to print one side then resize the other side and likely do a whole new sized corrugated insert but I'm super excited because thanks to your hinges, my original vision is becoming reality.:giggle:

On the rez, I have another idea about that...Regarding the bottom floor of the rez...I'm thinking make it about 15-20mm thick with a 10mm deep channel and the same width of the VG down the center so the VG kinda locks in to it.
The design will hold up the VG with no chance of tipping over and later if the walls of the VG become a little loose it won't matter. The channel will keep it together.😉
 
Me working your design right now

View attachment 25148


I've changed it up a bit but your hinges are absolutely brilliant Brother!
The next version (VG 3.0) will hopefully get on the printer in a couple days then I'll be able to show you what I've done with it.
I need to print one side then resize the other side and likely do a whole new sized corrugated insert but I'm super excited because thanks to your hinges, my original vision is becoming reality.:giggle:

On the rez, I have another idea about that...Regarding the bottom floor of the rez...I'm thinking make it about 15-20mm thick with a 10mm deep channel and the same width of the VG down the center so the VG kinda locks in to it.
The design will hold up the VG with no chance of tipping over and later if the walls of the VG become a little loose it won't matter. The channel will keep it together.😉

ahhh i like that idea with a pocket in the rez, the latches are cool but kind of PITA, not as bad as a rubber band but still i bet it would be way cooler without latches and held together by the rez!!

did you print one out? how about the center piece, did you happen to try out the new deeper grooves? i've been getting a lot of germ time in with my latest failures, the batch i have now makes for a total of 26 seedlings in it and i just loaded another six in late last night!!! and man not one single crossover or hink up in any way. every single seedling germinated perfectly.
 
ahhh i like that idea with a pocket in the rez, the latches are cool but kind of PITA, not as bad as a rubber band but still i bet it would be way cooler without latches and held together by the rez!!

did you print one out? how about the center piece, did you happen to try out the new deeper grooves? i've been getting a lot of germ time in with my latest failures, the batch i have now makes for a total of 26 seedlings in it and i just loaded another six in late last night!!! and man not one single crossover or hink up in any way. every single seedling germinated perfectly.

The first attempt at printing it will happen later today. If that goes well then it's onto the hinged part and then the insert.

So far, this is what I've done

vg flip.png

I took off one side wall then added another wall and turned it on it's side so it will open like a book instead of the hinges being at the bottom.
It is bigger and taller, right now 150x150x25, and I may make it even bigger than that.
IDK if I'll do it yet or if I'll need it but I'm considering pilot holes at the hinge/binder side and will use small stainless steel screws to support the nubs.
If I do the screws the insert may get a tube on one side so the screws would go into the insert as well and pretty much make it like a page in a book.
Also perhaps a knob on the door if it's difficult to open which would also be attached with a screw.
And then of course fancy it up with color and design. :cool:

Can these 3d printers make small pots with vertical lines down the inside to train roots downward

Certainly possible but I've been having durability issues using filament plastic as actual plant containers.
UV protection is nonexistent so it warps and discolors outdoors even after having a UV protective coating put on.
It's also so rigid it can crack ez which I've had happen with a couple starter pot designs and my DWC plant obliterated her 3D printed net cup with a large root wrapping around it and crushing it like a boa constrictor.

I think the better option there is blow molded pots from Nursery Supply. I use the Classic 2800 for flowering my plants and chose it for size and it having ribbed walls to guide roots like what you're looking for in a container. It's a 7 gallon pot but they make them in nearly every size anybody could ask for. Here's a link to what they offer...

 
Original prototype to now.
I added a can of Coke for scale.
Newest version has hinges on the side so it opens like a cabinet and the wave turns like a page in a book. It's also super sized with wide and deep channels and most notably I've added a backpack slot to fit mini reptile heat mats. This one has a Flukers 4 watt 4"x5" heat mat. So yeah..Now it's heated :cool:

IMG_5693.JPG

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Original prototype to now.
I added a can of Coke for scale.
Newest version has hinges on the side so it opens like a cabinet and the wave turns like a page in a book. It's also super sized with wide and deep channels and most notably I've added a backpack slot to fit mini reptile heat mats. This one has a Flukers 4 watt 4"x5" heat mat. So yeah..Now it's heated :cool:

View attachment 26586

View attachment 26587
Swwwwwwwweeweeeeeeeeeeeeeetttt🏝💒🗼
 
<-- this guy just ordered a 4w heat mat on ebay!!! :cool:

The backpack heater became the solution due to the reservoir I'm making. You'll see what I mean when it's done printing and the whole thing is assembled.
I'm pretty sure a 5x5 will also fit and even a 6x7 heat mat could be used. Those seem to be the most common sizes for reptile heat mats. If it gets too warm, a controller will likely be needed to keep temps in range.

I like the supersize because now it's pretty much no limits. Like I could pop some big ol moonflower seeds in this dude and for how deep and wide the channels are, there's no chance of crossovers with cannabis beans. At first I thought maybe a bit oversized and over engineered but now that it's done I'm liking it's size and heftiness.

I'm going to put all the parts on a single workplane file and Y'all can have at it. Copy & paste on Tinkercad will be your friend on this one. Should have that done by later today.
Each part is a marathon print. 13 hours on the wave might be the shortest print time. There will be both a heated and nonheated backplate.

There's some nuances to this one as well...
The wave and backpack cover need to be printed standing up and use support generator for the overhangs.
The front cover print can be standing up or laying flat. Warping isn't an issue for me so I prefer it laying down and if it does print standing up it too will need support generated. I ran all support at .5 density.

I'm not too sure about the hinge pin. It works but it's a bit rough off the printer and needs to be sanded down smooth. I think I'd prefer a stainless steel or titanium shaft there instead and will look into that. Really a ziptie could work there too.
The holes for the hinge pins also benefit from having a 3mm round file ran thru there and cleaned up smooth.
The hole for the wave hinge is off slightly but a reaming with a drill bit slightly larger than the hole fixed that.
 
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Here's the link to the whole enchilada


You can download as is or copy and tinker to ungroup parts and/or resize to your liking.
It should look like this on your screen with each part being able to click on it then copy and paste it onto another workplane as individual parts.
Combined total print time at 10% density and support everywhere is around 69 hours!

vg screenshot.png
 
Downloaded, I'll print one out when I get a free printer. Looks like 42 hours for me.

That pin is gonna be a bitch to print.
I printed 4 pins at a time on a raft and 3 came out usable. Not sure what happened with the 4th but yeah, print more than you need and you'll see why I think stainless steel or titanium would be much better there
 
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I just loaded my CO2 tanks to swap out at the welding store. I'll see what I can come up with for ss rod while I'm there.

Here's an option on amazon


I never thought about it but carbon fiber could do the job too


I'm seeing some titanium options as well but that stuff looks like a real PITA to cut unless you have some real baddass tools like laser cut or water jet
 
Hauler rez now available for public consumption 😋


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Time to test the beast out! I'll let Y'all know how the new heated version works out soon.
Also looking into a rez with a slot in the bottom for a mini heat mat to fit instead of the backpack design
 
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Think about using a small pump to move water through the VG.
What would work best is called a vacuum pump.
I know a good brand but it is discontinued and now like 5-7 times original cost.
https://www.amazon.com/Tom-Aquarium-Products-Lifter-Vacuum/dp/B00BXUZWUY/ref=sr_1_1?crid=XMAC403R9RMM&keywords=toms+aquarium+aqua+lifter+pump&qid=1698358615&s=pet-supplies&sprefix=toms+aquarium+aqua+lifter+pump,pets,169&sr=1-1-catcorr
Can't say GPH but it flows slowly through a standard airline for fish tanks.
 
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