Bud Builders - Making Friends, Growing Cannabis

Register a free account today to become a Bud Builders member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on our site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox.

Join the fun and make some friends!

Zombie's Ganja Garden Of Happiness / Banter Boat

hey there @ZombieRider looks like you got things under control on your grow. hope it's some primo weed.
Whats up homie, under control is an overstatement lol. More like "living on the edge" of ideal vpd lol. Hoping its primo weed too, really goijg for flavor above all else so trying to get the ideal npk ratios to not give em too much n during flower.
Got a light box built from cardboard that will let me run my window ac at night. Been having higher temps at night cuz i cant run the ac cuz if its light, so hopefully i fixed that.

What about you man what you got growing on?
 
Whats up homie, under control is an overstatement lol. More like "living on the edge" of ideal vpd lol. Hoping its primo weed too, really goijg for flavor above all else so trying to get the ideal npk ratios to not give em too much n during flower.
Got a light box built from cardboard that will let me run my window ac at night. Been having higher temps at night cuz i cant run the ac cuz if its light, so hopefully i fixed that.

What about you man what you got growing on?
i had 2 plants going at the beginning of the year and i was travelling a lot and my step daughter was supposed to look after them and did something cause it went to hell real quick lol. i didn't have time to nurse them so i lost them both. i am going to pop a few SLH beans and see how those go. i need to clean out my grow tent thoroughly before i put some new plants in there.
 
i had 2 plants going at the beginning of the year and i was travelling a lot and my step daughter was supposed to look after them and did something cause it went to hell real quick lol. i didn't have time to nurse them so i lost them both. i am going to pop a few SLH beans and see how those go. i need to clean out my grow tent thoroughly before i put some new plants in there.
Yeah man its hard to go somewhere and have people tke care of the plants for you cuz they mean well but they usually mess SOMETHING up lol. Last time i did this was my super lemon haze grow. I left for a couple weeks and my plants suffered cuz of it. Oh well, we live and learn. Though there are lots of methods to keep everything no input for weeks at a time. Maybe living soil and preload the soil with ammendments before a trip. Also, getting your environment dialed to where its hands free 24/7 + care free growing method + auto water then its easy for someone to check on em and not fk it up lol.

Cant wait to see your SLH grow, are you in soil or coco or rdwc? Shoot me a link to your thread if you can.
 
Yeah man its hard to go somewhere and have people tke care of the plants for you cuz they mean well but they usually mess SOMETHING up lol. Last time i did this was my super lemon haze grow. I left for a couple weeks and my plants suffered cuz of it. Oh well, we live and learn. Though there are lots of methods to keep everything no input for weeks at a time. Maybe living soil and preload the soil with ammendments before a trip. Also, getting your environment dialed to where its hands free 24/7 + care free growing method + auto water then its easy for someone to check on em and not fk it up lol.

Cant wait to see your SLH grow, are you in soil or coco or rdwc? Shoot me a link to your thread if you can.
Yeah most likely soil. But looking at rdwc set up.
 
Yeah most likely soil. But looking at rdwc set up.
What makes you consider rdwc vs drain to waste in coco? I see Moe Red using rdwc (he's doing soil now too i think). Doesnt rdwc require lots of equipment and ya gotta keep res chilled? Seems like more work than coco but i dont know for sure. Would like to see a side by side pro's and cons of rdwc vs dtw.
 
So im thinking of altering my npk a little bit since im in late flower, so i wanna give em less N and more P & K since im reading that a 1-3-2 ratio is good fr late flower. Im currently feeding them 1-1.5-2 ( if im calculating correctly. I multiply volume of nutrient by each npk number, then divide the three numbers by the lowest one). Probably totally fkn wrong lmao.

@Moe.Red @Aqua Man : am i calculating my npk correctly? Does this late bloom recipe seem unbalanced? Im reading that a phosphorous dominant ratio is ideal for late flower. You said i could run my 11-6-20 till harvest but i like to complicate things lmao.

4 gallon res:
10ml micro (5-0-1)
2ml Grow (2-1-6)
26 bloom (0-5-4)

So my random-ass calculations give me an npk ratio of 1-2.4-2.3. Feel free to laugh at my social science math lol.
 
What makes you consider rdwc vs drain to waste in coco? I see Moe Red using rdwc (he's doing soil now too i think). Doesnt rdwc require lots of equipment and ya gotta keep res chilled? Seems like more work than coco but i dont know for sure. Would like to see a side by side pro's and cons of rdwc vs dtw.
RDWC requires more initial setup and cost. Then it seems easier to me overall, and the results are apparently higher yields. I'm putting that to the test now.

RDWC can be made pretty simply too. A couple of buckets and a pump with a little piping. You can certainly go all out, but not needed to get started.

If you need help with plans tag me in @Neueregel
 
So im thinking of altering my npk a little bit since im in late flower, so i wanna give em less N and more P & K since im reading that a 1-3-2 ratio is good fr late flower. Im currently feeding them 1-1.5-2 ( if im calculating correctly. I multiply volume of nutrient by each npk number, then divide the three numbers by the lowest one). Probably totally fkn wrong lmao.

@Moe.Red @Aqua Man : am i calculating my npk correctly? Does this late bloom recipe seem unbalanced? Im reading that a phosphorous dominant ratio is ideal for late flower. You said i could run my 11-6-20 till harvest but i like to complicate things lmao.

4 gallon res:
10ml micro (5-0-1)
2ml Grow (2-1-6)
26 bloom (0-5-4)

So my random-ass calculations give me an npk ratio of 1-2.4-2.3. Feel free to laugh at my social science math lol.
Looking at your last plant pics, I would say you are in good shape.

I honestly do not follow any prescribed recipe. I use them as a starting point, and adjust from there. Different plants, different needs.

Dropping N in the last couple weeks is a good thing.

Are you using potassium silicate or anything like that? Those sorts of buffers will increase potassium.

I'd like to wait for @Aqua Man but I know he has been busy lately. If he is not available, I'd be a little cautious about 10:2:26 if I am reading you right. Seems very heavy on the bloom to me.

Are you adding anything else at all?
 
Agree stay the course man. High P in late flower, you sure you didn’t mean K? Not for me and your ratios look good and I wouldn’t change em. I agree with @moe 100%
 
RDWC requires more initial setup and cost. Then it seems easier to me overall, and the results are apparently higher yields. I'm putting that to the test now.

RDWC can be made pretty simply too. A couple of buckets and a pump with a little piping. You can certainly go all out, but not needed to get started.

If you need help with plans tag me in @Neueregel
Whether RWC - Ebb and flow or full on hydroponics in tents are a set up for bud rot, with so much moisture in and around the pots I see this as a number 1 issue. Specially like me in an already damp basement........Its not a killer but its definitely something that needs to be addressed early. If you don't have a good dehue or 2, I'd think soil a safer grow method
 
Whether RWC - Ebb and flow or full on hydroponics in tents are a set up for bud rot, with so much moisture in and around the pots I see this as a number 1 issue. Specially like me in an already damp basement........Its not a killer but its definitely something that needs to be addressed early. If you don't have a good dehue or 2, I'd think soil a safer grow method
Fair point. To get the best results no matter what your grow style, environmental factors need to be in the range, if not completely under control.

RDWC does not contribute directly to more RH - the pots are all sealed up. What does is higher respiration from a plant that grows faster and larger. That can be mitigated somewhat by defol and training. But yes, if you are going to run plants faster and larger, that means more water vapor will be released by the leaves during daytime hours.
 
RDWC requires more initial setup and cost. Then it seems easier to me overall, and the results are apparently higher yields. I'm putting that to the test now.

RDWC can be made pretty simply too. A couple of buckets and a pump with a little piping. You can certainly go all out, but not needed to get started.

If you need help with plans tag me in @Neueregel
Looking forward to seeing the results of the rdwc test. Im down for trying it if its easier than coco and higher yields as you say.
 
Looking at your last plant pics, I would say you are in good shape.

I honestly do not follow any prescribed recipe. I use them as a starting point, and adjust from there. Different plants, different needs.

Dropping N in the last couple weeks is a good thing.

Are you using potassium silicate or anything like that? Those sorts of buffers will increase potassium.

I'd like to wait for @Aqua Man but I know he has been busy lately. If he is not available, I'd be a little cautious about 10:2:26 if I am reading you right. Seems very heavy on the bloom to me.

Are you adding anything else at all?
Gotcha bro thanks for breaking this down for me. I do see some senecense in some of the plants so it seems like they dont have too much N. Will run this ratio then until last couple weeks where i plan to add the epsom salt.

Im not running potassium silicate (is that like admor si?).

Im also still adding a bit of diamond nectar as it has pk so i figured it wont hurt right?

One question from that:

When you say its good to lower N last couple weeks, would running calimagic + epsom salt + flora bloom be a good ripening mix, or should i just stick with the recipe im using now and just dilute it until end of ripen/flush?
 
Agree stay the course man. High P in late flower, you sure you didn’t mean K? Not for me and your ratios look good and I wouldn’t change em. I agree with @moe 100%
I saw rhat some people recommend a 1-3-2 in late flower so i thoght the middle number what phosphorous right?
 
Whether RWC - Ebb and flow or full on hydroponics in tents are a set up for bud rot, with so much moisture in and around the pots I see this as a number 1 issue. Specially like me in an already damp basement........Its not a killer but its definitely something that needs to be addressed early. If you don't have a good dehue or 2, I'd think soil a safer grow method
With the humidity levels in Virginia and my grow area not being spray foam insulated, the rh from rdwc kinda scares me now lol. Maybe when i get an insulated room with CO2 setup I'll try rdwc cuz of the rh issue.
 
To avoid confusion heres what i use:
4 gallon res: 40ppm well water
8ml calimagic
11ml flora micro
6ml flora grow
20ml Flora bloom
10ml diamond nectar
Yucca: saponin
Great white: microbes

Comes out to 5.9 PH and 585ppm
 
Fair point. To get the best results no matter what your grow style, environmental factors need to be in the range, if not completely under control.

RDWC does not contribute directly to more RH - the pots are all sealed up. What does is higher respiration from a plant that grows faster and larger. That can be mitigated somewhat by defol and training. But yes, if you are going to run plants faster and larger, that means more water vapor will be released by the leaves during daytime hours.
Boy oh boy don't i know this with my 6x6 canopy with no lollipopping and not enough defol. Its like wind city in there though and with my dehu i am keeping it in good rh range. Though having a res in there would add to the rh IF its not sealed 100% right?
 
So i went in my grow room this morning to check for light leaks (just built a light proof box around my window ac to run it at night cuz my dehu heats up room) and saw that the "light proof box" was leaking some light (sunrise at 6am so they had 2hr 41min of light leak). Gonna fix the light leak with some ducting. The thing looks like a cardboard monster with ducting coming out lol.

Anyway, was thinking of turning off the light a couple hours earlier today to make sure they dont get too many light hours and continue their normal schedule tomorrow. Or should i just keep normal schedule and not worry bout it?
 
To avoid confusion heres what i use:
4 gallon res: 40ppm well water
8ml calimagic
11ml flora micro
6ml flora grow
20ml Flora bloom
10ml diamond nectar
Yucca: saponin
Great white: microbes

Comes out to 5.9 PH and 585ppm
Just as a comparison in my Auto Pots...an ebb and flow type system with a 47L reservoir I'd add 3 gal to the res at a time 1 week into flowering...All GH products

15 ml micro
15ml grow
17ml bloom
12ml Diamond Nectar
3 ml Hyclean

Week3
15ml micro
15ml grow
30 ml bloom
15ml Cal/ Mag
12,l Diamond nectar
3 ml Hyclean

Week 4
12ml micro
12ml grow
30ml bloom
1/3tsp dry Kool Bloom
15ml Cal/mag
12ml DN
3ml Hyclean

Week 7
9ml micro
9ml grow
18ml bloom
9ml cal/mag
9ml DN
3ml Hyclean

Week 8
6ml micro
6ml grow/
9ml bloom
6 ml DN
3ml Hyclean
 
I saw rhat some people recommend a 1-3-2 in late flower so i thoght the middle number what phosphorous right?
Yeah it is but P is more needed in later veg and through stretch imo. By needed i mean feed wise not plant usage wise as the plant will accumulate it for use in flower. Its still needed but not as much feed wise mid to late flower imo. Its a mobile nutrient so it will pull it from lower leaves if needed. Imo mobile nutrients are less crucial and less impactful as they can usually be remedied fairly quickly. To much P is of more danger than to little imo for that reason.

A plant need adequate nutrients and more of it doesn’t make any improvement but rather a detriment much like a deficiency but from those both i would rather have a deficiency than a toxicity in terms of correcting the issue. A P issue is usually an availability thing
 
So i went in my grow room this morning to check for light leaks (just built a light proof box around my window ac to run it at night cuz my dehu heats up room) and saw that the "light proof box" was leaking some light (sunrise at 6am so they had 2hr 41min of light leak). Gonna fix the light leak with some ducting. The thing looks like a cardboard monster with ducting coming out lol.

Anyway, was thinking of turning off the light a couple hours earlier today to make sure they dont get too many light hours and continue their normal schedule tomorrow. Or should i just keep normal schedule and not worry bout it?
Keep normal
 
Just as a comparison in my Auto Pots...an ebb and flow type system with a 47L reservoir I'd add 3 gal to the res at a time 1 week into flowering...All GH products

15 ml micro
15ml grow
17ml bloom
12ml Diamond Nectar
3 ml Hyclean

Week3
15ml micro
15ml grow
30 ml bloom
15ml Cal/ Mag
12,l Diamond nectar
3 ml Hyclean

Week 4
12ml micro
12ml grow
30ml bloom
1/3tsp dry Kool Bloom
15ml Cal/mag
12ml DN
3ml Hyclean

Week 7
9ml micro
9ml grow
18ml bloom
9ml cal/mag
9ml DN
3ml Hyclean

Week 8
6ml micro
6ml grow/
9ml bloom
6 ml DN
3ml Hyclean
Hell yeah good to see someone else's recipe for comparison. I notice your ratio's are pretty even throughout. For the stuff that you goby tsp vs ml, do you just go by the recommended dose or do you just add to a certain ppm?
 
Hell yeah good to see someone else's recipe for comparison. I notice your ratio's are pretty even throughout. For the stuff that you goby tsp vs ml, do you just go by the recommended dose or do you just add to a certain ppm?
Mostly from recommended feed schedule but there wasn't really a guide for the auto pots. I just went with what I'd been doing for soil and instead of a water cycle they just got more food and I start adding cal/mag week 3 off flower and taper it off at the end like the rest of the nutes.
Hell yeah good to see someone else's recipe for comparison. I notice your ratio's are pretty even throughout. For the stuff that you goby tsp vs ml, do you just go by the recommended dose or do you just add to a certain ppm?
Well with the Kool bloom it says 1/4 tsp per gal but in giving 3 gal at a time I gave it 1tsp for 3 gal so 1/3...just to bump it up a bit,,,
 
Mostly from recommended feed schedule but there wasn't really a guide for the auto pots. I just went with what I'd been doing for soil and instead of a water cycle they just got more food and I start adding cal/mag week 3 off flower and taper it off at the end like the rest of the nutes.

Well with the Kool bloom it says 1/4 tsp per gal but in giving 3 gal at a time I gave it 1tsp for 3 gal so 1/3...just to bump it up a bit,,,
You using RO? My well runs 40ppmish so i have to run some kind of mag supplement till the end i think.

@Aqua Man sorry to bombard you with questions lol. I think i already asked you this but i cant find/remeber your answer. Should i add the same amount of calimagic when i use the epsom salt since it has magnesium? Or should i cut the amount of calimagic in half and taper it out like Pipecarver is doing?
 
You using RO? My well runs 40ppmish so i have to run some kind of mag supplement till the end i think.

@Aqua Man sorry to bombard you with questions lol. I think i already asked you this but i cant find/remeber your answer. Should i add the same amount of calimagic when i use the epsom salt since it has magnesium? Or should i cut the amount of calimagic in half and taper it out like Pipecarver is doing?
My well water is around 125ppm......its just this chart that made me start using Cal/mag...it shows at week 3 in flower its needed as much as everything else but before that it shows its not needed.... To any great extent...I think the GH nutes 3 part must have some trace amounts in it if its required and their 3 part is considered a full line. Otherwise I'd think deficiency complaints would be common.1687805601586.png
 
My well water is around 125ppm......its just this chart that made me start using Cal/mag...it shows at week 3 in flower its needed as much as everything else but before that it shows its not needed.... To any great extent...I think the GH nutes 3 part must have some trace amounts in it if its required and their 3 part is considered a full line. Otherwise I'd think deficiency complaints would be common.View attachment 10082
Interesting about the calmag needs in flower, i thought it was reveresed. More calmag needed in veg vs flower. Go figure wtf do i know lol.
 
Interesting about the calmag needs in flower, i thought it was reveresed. More calmag needed in veg vs flower. Go figure wtf do i know lol.
I can post some pics if you want but the calcium def 2 weeks into flower is probably the number one easily spotted and preventable nute issue for us hydro growers.

I start day one with cal-mag too. But ramps up before the flip and then for about 3 weeks in. Start to back it down once flowers start forming.

I would be careful of using both cal mag and Epsom salt. I think you need the right ratio of cal and mag for it to work properly.

1687817551725.png

That's Mulder's chart. You would think Cal and Mag are 2 peas in a pod, but they actually fight each other. If you get them out of balance, both will suffer.

My knowledge is all hydro so take it for what it is worth.
 
I can post some pics if you want but the calcium def 2 weeks into flower is probably the number one easily spotted and preventable nute issue for us hydro growers.

I start day one with cal-mag too. But ramps up before the flip and then for about 3 weeks in. Start to back it down once flowers start forming.

I would be careful of using both cal mag and Epsom salt. I think you need the right ratio of cal and mag for it to work properly.

View attachment 10115

That's Mulder's chart. You would think Cal and Mag are 2 peas in a pod, but they actually fight each other. If you get them out of balance, both will suffer.

My knowledge is all hydro so take it for what it is worth.
You start with cal/mag but are you using well water or RO? I think with trace amount in my well water adding cal/mag early has stunted my plants with too much calcium locking out the mag turning my stalks purple. At least that was the diagnoses,

Reading this and becoming more aware of these issues I can see my reveg looking like it needs something...its 6 months old 3 weeks into flower in soil and I'll start adding cal/mag next feed ( 2 days) .....I think I'm a bit behind with it and should have given her a drink of it earlier.
 
You start with cal/mag but are you using well water or RO? I think with trace amount in my well water adding cal/mag early has stunted my plants with too much calcium locking out the mag turning my stalks purple. At least that was the diagnoses,

Reading this and becoming more aware of these issues I can see my reveg looking like it needs something...its 6 months old 3 weeks into flower in soil and I'll start adding cal/mag next feed ( 2 days) .....I think I'm a bit behind with it and should have given her a drink of it earlier.
If you have access to RO water you can mix up some salts with added cal mag and see if it fixes the problem. Then you'll know what it was and you'll be able to continue whatever method you're doing knowing how to approach it.
 
I can post some pics if you want but the calcium def 2 weeks into flower is probably the number one easily spotted and preventable nute issue for us hydro growers.

I start day one with cal-mag too. But ramps up before the flip and then for about 3 weeks in. Start to back it down once flowers start forming.

I would be careful of using both cal mag and Epsom salt. I think you need the right ratio of cal and mag for it to work properly.

View attachment 10115

That's Mulder's chart. You would think Cal and Mag are 2 peas in a pod, but they actually fight each other. If you get them out of balance, both will suffer.

My knowledge is all hydro so take it for what it is worth.
Sup! I was looking for something exactly like that chart, thanks bro. I knew certain nutrients lock out others but didnt know how to visualize it.

Are you using RO water with your hydro? My well water is around 40ppm.
So tomorrow marks the beginning of week 8 for me. Im still using 8ml of calimagic, but have been trying to figure out if/when to stop using it.

You say you back the calmag down once flowers form, do you cut it out entirely or run it until harvest?

And yeah man i wanna use that epsom for the sulphur (terps) but not 100% sure how to incorporate it into my mix. I was planning on cutting my calmag in half and adding epsom at .5g per gallon. Should i just cut out the calmag when i start using the epsom?

I plan to start cutting my ppm's last two weeks of flower, ending with like 250ppm last week of flower, then flush for a couple days (just to test cuz i didnt flush last time and my ash was blackwr than when i flushed before, so not sure. Might just flush one and run one plant with low ppm's till harvest and test). Expecting 10-11 total weeks total flower time.
 
I veg bigger plants 7 to 8 weeks and find calcium often is lacking in veg too.
Yeah in veg i learned i need at least 3ml per gallon of calimagic to not have any mag def. I also find that if my lights arent on strong enough they have mag def no matter what recipe i give them. I think its cuz the plants cant uptake certain nutrients without enough light so there is lockout somewhere? Not sure but it makes sense enough for now lol
 
Your well being 40ppm is basically equal to RO for most.
I would assume whatever it is that makes up 40 is insignificant as far as feedings go.
I would do your mixes with 40 being zero in my mind and mix to your chosen number plus the 40.

I have found with LEDS that mag deficiencies are common, but easily managed.
I would to have separate Ca and Mg.
My experience is Mg is needed to be supplemented more often than CA so adding both is not always better.
 
Do you run calmag to harvest or do you cut it out during ripening? Nice Bluelab Guardian, would be so awesome to see a live reading of my res any given moment.
I only grow 2 crops a year so only on my 2nd crop will i limit calmag because my rez supplys both rooms for top up (rez is 3ml/gal cal mag). I add nutrients daily to the epicenter and will adjust calmag accordingly for what i think the plant wants/needs. I'm usually wrong lol.
So tomorrow marks the beginning of week 8 for me. Im still using 8ml of calimagic, but have been trying to figure out if/when to stop using it.
8 ml per gal would be extremely high to finnish with imo, half my grows i finnish using 3 ml per gal.

Cal/mag usage is a tough one for me always has bean.

Basically calcium doesn't like anything and doesn't mix well with anything including magnesium

As Steamroller above just mentioned LED lighting is above my pay scale.
 
Back
Top Bottom