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Rootsruler

Rootsruler

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My buddies growing an auto plant. He's having issues. Miracle Gro soil in a 3 gallon pot with an SF1000 for light. 76°/55%

Terrapin leaf issues.jpgTerrapin leaf issues A.jpg
 
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CannaGranny said:
Let’s chat a bit about ph. What type of water are you using? What’s the ph point View attachment 41941and how are you controlling that?
One thing that has been my experience with autos..they are not big on food at all.
Pics of the last autos I grew. These were planted in Fox Farms soils. Bottom third, Ocean Forest, top two thirds Fox Farm Happy Frog along with some organic amendments. Only water ph’ed for its entire life cycle.
Click to expand...
No amendments at ANY time throughout or do you top feed later in flower? I seem to remember you mentioning amending Gaia(?) or something like that at week 6 or 7? Maybe I'm confusing you with someone else.
 
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Rootsruler said:
No amendments at ANY time throughout or do you top feed later in flower? I seem to remember you mentioning amending Gaia(?) or something like that at week 6 or 7? Maybe I'm confusing you with someone else.
Click to expand...
You have me confused with Shadey. I add amendments to my soil at the time of planting.
 
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OLDCRO said:
Run your lighting 18 on 6 off give plants sleeping time. Are you running led lighting and how far from plant. Whats the temp and humidity level in grow area see top leaves canoeing a bit can be caused by over watering, temp and humidity. Add some epson salts in next nute batch hold off on the calmag your on city water should be calcium in it. Make sure soil is dried back before watering again go by weight or shove your finger in soil to check for moisture level. Oh yes if you use epsom salt get the plain one no scented epsom salt.
Click to expand...
Does this hold for Autos? Not sure if you're confusing it with photos.

I've read that Autos can run on 24 hour light without issue. I realize in photos the dark period is important for certain processes to happen but I'm not sure if that is the case with Autos. I don't grow Autos so I'm not familiar with the nuances.
 
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Rootsruler said:
Does this hold for Autos? Not sure if you're confusing it with photos.

I've read that Autos can run on 24 hour light without issue. I realize in photos the dark period is important for certain processes to happen but I'm not sure if that is the case with Autos. I don't grow Autos so I'm not familiar with the nuances.
Click to expand...
Yes you can run them 24/0 running18/6 saves on hydro bill and gives plant time to rest helping with growth.
 
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OLDCRO said:
Run your lighting 18 on 6 off give plants sleeping time. Are you running led lighting and how far from plant. Whats the temp and humidity level in grow area see top leaves canoeing a bit can be caused by over watering, temp and humidity. Add some epson salts in next nute batch hold off on the calmag your on city water should be calcium in it. Make sure soil is dried back before watering again go by weight or shove your finger in soil to check for moisture level. Oh yes if you use epsom salt get the plain one no scented epsom salt.
Click to expand...

Can you tell me how much epsom salts to use per gallon please?
 
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You can use between 1tsp and 1 tbsp per gallon.
It is nearly impossible to overdose Mg.
I would go with 1 tablespoon per gallon for your plant.
 
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I wonder if me moving my light could have caused the original nutes issues that I had?

It was right after I moved the light to 12" that I got into trouble initially.

I went by a chart I saw for autos that said 800-1000 PPFD. That's why I moved it to 960 PPFD 3 weeks ago.
 
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FWIW, I just checked my journal and two days after I moved my light to 12" I woke up to find two crispy leaves at the bottom and blotches on many of the leaves. Hmmm . . .
 
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Terrapin said:
FWIW, I just checked my journal and two days after I moved my light to 12" I woke up to find two crispy leaves at the bottom and blotches on many of the leaves. Hmmm . . .
Click to expand...
For some reason when using led lights the plants need extra Mg. As Steamroller said a tablespoon per gallon is good.
 
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OLDCRO said:
For some reason when using led lights the plants need extra Mg. As Steamroller said a tablespoon per gallon is good.
Click to expand...
I'll even take this a little farther and say some LED lights increase the need for Mg. more than others.
If that is not true then I have grown nothing but the most Mg. demanding strains that no one else has.
The grow I have now gets 3 2 1 which has Mg. in every feeding yet my plants still show Mg.def.
While others insist, they don't need or use it till they flip to flower.
I think my cheap lights are part of the cause?
There is very little info or studies on this still.
 
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Can anyone tell me what these are please? I tried to look online to find out but all I can see is info about bracts and pistils at bud sites. I can't find out why these are at all nodes .

IMG_20240131_141516666~2.jpg
 
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Terrapin said:
Can anyone tell me what these are please? I tried to look online to find out but all I can see is info about bracts and pistils at bud sites. I can't find out why these are at all nodes .

View attachment 42563
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I'd say pluck a couple off and disect. My first plant hermied real bad and some of the balls I plucked off looked like this. Like a calyx. Some were "empty" with just a hair or two while some contained bananas. I just started plucking everything that wasn't a nug at that point.
 
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GrumpAzz said:
I'd say pluck a couple off and disect. My first plant hermied real bad and some of the balls I plucked off looked like this. Like a calyx. Some were "empty" with just a hair or two while some contained bananas. I just started plucking everything that wasn't a nug at that point.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll discect one. 👍
 
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GrumpAzz said:
I assumed the same thing but I absolutely plucked a few that had hairs coming out and bananas within...
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Yeah man, been there too!
Pollen sacs/nanners and pistils all in the same calyx. Its a dirty cryin shame too i tell ya. 😔
Really kicks a man where it hurts. 😅
 
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Just as a follow up note: Looking at how good she looks overall and her buds in particular . . . giving her the cocktail, trimming her diseased leaves and backing off with light intensity were all correct actions.

Especially backing off the light. She and the buds just look happier since I did that if that makes any sense. 🙂
 

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Terrapin said:
Just as a follow up note: Looking at how good she looks overall and her buds in particular . . . giving her the cocktail, trimming her diseased leaves and backing off with light intensity were all correct actions.

Especially backing off the light. She and the buds just look happier since I did that if that makes any sense. 🙂
Click to expand...
Water till you get run off
 
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Terrapin said:
Just as a follow up note: Looking at how good she looks overall and her buds in particular . . . giving her the cocktail, trimming her diseased leaves and backing off with light intensity were all correct actions.

Especially backing off the light. She and the buds just look happier since I did that if that makes any sense. 🙂
Click to expand...
Whack-A-Mole!! 😄

It's all about being able to find the plants limits where you're maxing them out but they are still comfortable and balancing it all so that you get as many parameters at max comfortable working for you. Once you learn to do that you can start working on strategic stressors to push their comfort zone at particular time frames in their growth cycle for better overall performance.
 
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My plant is cruising on auto pilot now with no issues.

So my attention is turning towards harvesting now. From what I can see from reading since my plant is a hybrid if I want it to be sativa forward I will harvest it when the resin in the trichomes is about 100% cloudy. And if I want it to be indica forward I will harvest it when the resin is 70% cloudy and 30% amber.

Does this sound right?

Here is the current situation.Screenshot_20240204-081550~2.png
 
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Personally i think 30% amber is a lot. Amber means the thc is degrading, you want to catch them when they are like 90-95% milky with maybe 5-10% amber imo. Also most of not all of the pistils will have turned an organish brown and receeded back into the bud.
Youve got a little while before harvest though.
 
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Terrapin said:
My plant is cruising on auto pilot now with no issues.

So my attention is turning towards harvesting now. From what I can see from reading since my plant is a hybrid if I want it to be sativa forward I will harvest it when the resin in the trichomes is about 100% cloudy. And if I want it to be indica forward I will harvest it when the resin is 70% cloudy and 30% amber.

Does this sound right?

Here is the current situation.View attachment 43317
Click to expand...
Yea sooner is active paranoid buzz later is couch lock la la land .
Worth the watch.
 
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